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Old high quality PSU, or semi-old mid-quality PSU?

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Kinda bumping into this thread. When is a good time to replace a good PSU?
When it no longer performs up to spec or need.

I have an EVGA SuperNova G2 1000 that has been rock solid for almost 10 years now. My warranty is finally about to expire in less than a year.
Should I just keep on using this thing for years? Or just plan to replace once warranty is up? From what I remember reading, this is a rebranded Super Flower that was one of the best PSUs out back in 2015 so I could see it easily lasting many more years.
Realize the warranty is designed for someone who runs the PSU 24/7. If you hardly push the PSU most days than in theory is should last years after the warranty.

I just like to be proactive, especially with power delivery.
If you really want to be proactive you can test the PSU to make sure it's up to spec and replace the fan which is usually the first thing to go in a solid PSU. That said ball bearing fans can last 60k, 70k, 80k, 90k hours or more and if you hardly push the PC in the first place it should be fine.
 
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Kinda bumping into this thread. When is a good time to replace a good PSU? I have an EVGA SuperNova G2 1000 that has been rock solid for almost 10 years now. My warranty is finally about to expire in less than a year. Should I just keep on using this thing for years? Or just plan to replace once warranty is up? From what I remember reading, this is a rebranded Super Flower that was one of the best PSUs out back in 2015 so I could see it easily lasting many more years. I just like to be proactive, especially with power delivery.
To add to what's already been suggested. Bust out your multimeter and check out the rails underload. While not a failsafe, it'll give you an idea of how the old girl is holding up.
 

#22

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Kinda bumping into this thread. When is a good time to replace a good PSU? I have an EVGA SuperNova G2 1000 that has been rock solid for almost 10 years now. My warranty is finally about to expire in less than a year. Should I just keep on using this thing for years? Or just plan to replace once warranty is up? From what I remember reading, this is a rebranded Super Flower that was one of the best PSUs out back in 2015 so I could see it easily lasting many more years. I just like to be proactive, especially with power delivery.

The thing is without proper testing you don't know how it's performance degraded over the years, so how healthy it feeds your components and if protections still work. That's why I'm not a fan of this quite pc enthusiast classic motif of keeping "rock solid" PSUs until they cause instabilities or just die. On the other hand it makes the "right time" completely relative basing on nothing strong. From my own experience good, uncompromised PSUs, range of nowadays higher-end Golds, easily give ten years, so I wouldn't replace such earlier, but I also wouldn't keep it for longer. Simply because PSU is the part responsible for the rest and 1000W of good one costs like budget GPU you would buy few times in ten years. That's why I find hard understanding people trying to squeeze another year or two from their ancient units.
 
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Especially with people plugging in more and more expensive hardware.

Wont you feel stupid when your $1500 GPU is fried because you decided to limp on with a 10+ year old PSU to save that $150 bucks extra. Now you get the fun of spending another $1500 on top of that $150 you tried to save.


PSUs are like Oil changes. Good insurance and relatively cheap to replace if they prevent the rest of the system going down during a brownout/power surge etc. IF there is a though about "should I change/upgrade/replace the PSU" there is very few places where saying Yes to those is a bad answer.


For example back when the G2 was new it was ~200 dollars brand new. Add on a bit of inflation and you can get a decent jump up again in terms of efficency from Gold to Titanium

 
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The thing is without proper testing you don't know how it's performance degraded over the years, so how healthy it feeds your components and if protections still work. That's why I'm not a fan of this quite pc enthusiast classic motif of keeping "rock solid" PSUs until they cause instabilities or just die. On the other hand it makes the "right time" completely relative basing on nothing strong. From my own experience good, uncompromised PSUs, range of nowadays higher-end Golds, easily give ten years, so I wouldn't replace such earlier, but I also wouldn't keep it for longer. Simply because PSU is the part responsible for the rest and 1000W of good one costs like budget GPU you would buy few times in ten years. That's why I find hard understanding people trying to squeeze another year or two from their ancient units.
Yea exactly, since I haven't had to worry about PSU tech in close to 10 years what should I be looking for these days? I was looking at another 1000 watt, probably platinum rated PSU. I've briefly looked at some Seasonic models. Not sure if I want to do another EVGA PSU since I have heard they are not as good as back when I got my G2, afaik EVGA just rebrands PSUs anyways, and I do not even know if they are going to exist in another few years.
 
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Yea exactly, since I haven't had to worry about PSU tech in close to 10 years what should I be looking for these days? I was looking at another 1000 watt, probably platinum rated PSU. I've briefly looked at some Seasonic models. Not sure if I want to do another EVGA PSU since I have heard they are not as good as back when I got my G2, afaik EVGA just rebrands PSUs anyways, and I do not even know if they are going to exist in another few years.
EVGA is out of the PSU game and looks to be heading out of the PC hardware game in full. You can always check hardware busters for Aris top list of PSU as well as the new ATX 3.0 vs 3.1 spec
 
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#22

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Yea exactly, since I haven't had to worry about PSU tech in close to 10 years what should I be looking for these days? I was looking at another 1000 watt, probably platinum rated PSU. I've briefly looked at some Seasonic models. Not sure if I want to do another EVGA PSU since I have heard they are not as good as back when I got my G2, afaik EVGA just rebrands PSUs anyways, and I do not even know if they are going to exist in another few years.

I wouldn't go anything EVGA - brand likely to drawn (with your warranty) or at least more than many other good PSU sellers. 1000W is fine, but I personally went 1200W what to me fits better power draws of nowadays highend components. 1000W is plenty for whatever consumer CPU and GPU combo, but you want bigger capacity in case of longevity of PSU and silence. Ofc it all if you are likely to tolerate awfully inefficient power draws. I personally find strange running i9 above 200W or 4090 above 300W, but probably majority runs "to get all what they paid for" lol
 
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I wouldn't go anything EVGA - brand likely to drawn (with your warranty) or at least more than many other good PSU sellers. 1000W is fine, but I personally went 1200W what to me fits better power draws of nowadays highend components. 1000W is plenty for whatever consumer CPU and GPU combo, but you want bigger capacity in case of longevity of PSU and silence. Ofc it all if you are likely to tolerate awfully inefficient power draws. I personally find strange running i9 above 200W or 4090 above 300W, but probably majority runs "to get all what they paid for" lol
Yea everything I have read and researched states highest efficiency is typically right at 50% load. I typically pull 400-450 watts under load with a 4080 and a 5800X3D, so 1000 is right at the sweet spot for that. But if Intel keeps thinking 250-300 watt CPUs are fine, then AMD might follow suit. Same with these 300-450 watt GPUs. 1200 probably would be better "just in case".
 
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Also, what would a 50% Japanese cap look like?
Lol, no - that's not what it means.
100% of the capacitors used are Japanese capacitors, i.e. there are no Chinese capacitors used at all. It's not a measure of how pure-blooded Japanese the capacitors are! :)
 
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I'd say i would 100% stick to the well known, higher quality PSU even if older, considering your specs
Just pay attention to power delivery stability in all sort of load, if you see something that's not within normal parameters, put the old fella down
 
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1200 probably would be better "just in case".
Technically yes but when was the last time you've seen a no nonsense PC user slaughtering on it at 100% load for longer than a couple hours during stability testing? That's almost purely enthusiast and enterprise level stuff. Whilst browsing web, the Web 3.0 included, it's rarely in upper double-digits, and whilst gaming, it's usually the GPU hitting its ceiling, not the CPU. Also undervolting makes much more sense these days as it allows 10 to 40 percent energy savings at the same or almost the same performance.

That's why the OP will be fine even with their VS unit, let alone SS one, for at least a couple years from now. Their system doesn't strike me as something of a serious appetite. No need to rush it at all. I seriously prefer the higher quality unit despite its age just because two years is nothing for PSUs. They are built to last for decades.
 

#22

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Yea everything I have read and researched states highest efficiency is typically right at 50% load. I typically pull 400-450 watts under load with a 4080 and a 5800X3D, so 1000 is right at the sweet spot for that. But if Intel keeps thinking 250-300 watt CPUs are fine, then AMD might follow suit. Same with these 300-450 watt GPUs. 1200 probably would be better "just in case".

If we talk good PSUs, like I said starting with higher-end Golds, I wouldn't bother much about even higher efficiency until we talk some power hungry rig being pushed 24/7 - that's when it may bring noticeable savings in the long run. It's good to calculate your potential savings first, before paying premium to get just more efficient PSU. Even light load efficiency of modern PSUs is quite good, so I wouldn't bother here too.

About capacity, I've bought myself 1200W when planning my next rig being limited to only 500-600W under full load, but it's capable of pulling 800-900 when being far from ratio of performance and power I find sensible. For now I wouldn't tolerate heat and noise of it's full capability and I can be picky thanks to negligible performance losses my sensible ratio costs. But I bought this PSU assuming it may serve me ten years and I'm pessimistic about power draw of future components. It seems more likely that my next configs' ratios will go up and I will need to think about some workarounds to deal with it. Like I don't like mentioned classic motif of keeping old PSU until it shows problems, I find even worse one with needing to buy new one, because in the past you've wanted to save on capacity of current one (and it doesn't cut it or just gets noisy). Then you need to spend around five times those savings for new unit :D To be clear I don't see you want to save here, but just use such hitting hard example for anybody reading it ;)
 
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A PSU over 1000W output is completely unnecessary in this day and age, and the future. Though GPUs are getting more power-hungry and 12VHPWR can draw up to 600W, the heaviest GPU of this generation the 4090 pulls under 500W at worst-case load according to W1zz's review, and realistically is going to draw far less under most ordinary workloads. Even if we assume that its successor draws 10% more power for a total of 550W, the rest of the system is never going to draw more than 300W unless you are stupid enough to own the POS 14900KS which can draw over 500W, so an 850W unit is going to be more than sufficient.
 
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If we talk good PSUs, like I said starting with higher-end Golds, I wouldn't bother much about even higher efficiency until we talk some power hungry rig being pushed 24/7 - that's when it may bring noticeable savings in the long run. It's good to calculate your potential savings first, before paying premium to get just more efficient PSU. Even light load efficiency of modern PSUs is quite good, so I wouldn't bother here too.
I would argue now actually its more about the low load efficency being key.

For example An 80+ Titanium unit is as efficent down at ~10% load (so when idle/desktop/youtubing etc) as an old 80+ silver is when at its most efficent.


So where your 4080 and 7800x3d are down at the 70/80/90 watt level with that older PSU its efficency is going to be well in the low 80s I suspect probably in the mid/high 70s vs the 90% of the modern units. So thats a saving of 7-15 watts just at idle. Once we get up to the 4-500 watt range we are talking a > 6% difference in efficency. So again probably north of 30 watts there. So while small it does add up as its 7-40 watts of extra power draw and heat dissipation from a newer unit and having a new 10 year warranty on top.

Now in the US those savings wont be much but in certain parts of the EU it adds up VERY quickly.
 
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Now in the US those savings wont be much but in certain parts of the EU it adds up VERY quickly.
Even if power consumption isn't a concern, heat output due to higher draw may be.
 

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A PSU over 1000W output is completely unnecessary in this day and age, and the future. Though GPUs are getting more power-hungry and 12VHPWR can draw up to 600W, the heaviest GPU of this generation the 4090 pulls under 500W at worst-case load according to W1zz's review, and realistically is going to draw far less under most ordinary workloads. Even if we assume that its successor draws 10% more power for a total of 550W, the rest of the system is never going to draw more than 300W unless you are stupid enough to own the POS 14900KS which can draw over 500W, so an 850W unit is going to be more than sufficient.

You don't know the future, so don't use points basing on that ;) Bigger capacity means also stressing PSU less with given load, so degrading it less and we talk here reasonable approach to longevity. And it looks like you forgot about the noise what to me is way more important than longevity. To me good PSU is about safety, feeding components well, but also me never ever hearing it.

I would argue now actually its more about the low load efficency being key.

For example An 80+ Titanium unit is as efficent down at ~10% load (so when idle/desktop/youtubing etc) as an old 80+ silver is when at its most efficent.

So where your 4080 and 7800x3d are down at the 70/80/90 watt level with that older PSU its efficency is going to be well in the low 80s I suspect probably in the mid/high 70s vs the 90% of the modern units. So thats a saving of 7-15 watts just at idle. Once we get up to the 4-500 watt range we are talking a > 6% difference in efficency. So again probably north of 30 watts there. So while small it does add up as its 7-40 watts of extra power draw and heat dissipation from a newer unit and having a new 10 year warranty on top.

I don't know what you want to argue with, but I clearly said about low load efficiency of modern premium PSUs we discuss being good. There's no point of comparing it to 80+ Silver ones and another budget or old stuff.

Now in the US those savings wont be much but in certain parts of the EU it adds up VERY quickly.

It's good to calculate your potential savings first, before paying premium to get just more efficient PSU.
 
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Lol, no - that's not what it means.
100% of the capacitors used are Japanese capacitors, i.e. there are no Chinese capacitors used at all. It's not a measure of how pure-blooded Japanese the capacitors are! :)
I know what they want it to mean, I was just having fun with an undefined marketing term that really only means there is some sort of correlation to Japan. After all these companies have offices and facilities across the globe including Japan, the states, Taiwan and China. What if one cap is 470uF 10V vs a 330uF 10v, what if one is 85c vs 105c, what if one company is HQ in Japan or but made in California or the PRC even? What if the HQ is in Korea but made in Nippon?

If we talk good PSUs, like I said starting with higher-end Golds
I know what you are saying but the 80 plus rating of gold efficiency is a joke and too often used to fool people into buying something that may not be the quality they think it is. If we talk about "quality PSU on modern platforms" then by definition they have good efficiency that easily passes 80 plus gold standard.
I would argue now actually its more about the low load efficency being key.
I would argue it's always been a key as most people run their PSU at low to mid capacity especially PC gamers who often get PSU far more capable then their power demands require.
 
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#22

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I know what you are saying but the 80 plus rating of gold efficiency is a joke and too often used to fool people into buying something that may not be the quality they think it is. If we talk about "quality PSU on modern platforms" then by definition they have good efficiency that easily passes 80 plus gold standard.

So I think you know that I say "higher-end Gold" as simplification, an orientation point of todays market's range where PSUs tend to start being uncompromised quality-wise and their performance solid to the point one even better being mostly about efficiency. I just prefer it over throwing prices or models, because they differ in various countries. 80 Plus being bad thing to suggest with is another topic and especially if we talk Gold range which shows the biggest differences between the worst and best models.
 
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If we talk good PSUs, like I said starting with higher-end Golds, I wouldn't bother much about even higher efficiency until we talk some power hungry rig being pushed 24/7 - that's when it may bring noticeable savings in the long run. It's good to calculate your potential savings first, before paying premium to get just more efficient PSU.;)

Exactly.

An older 80+ Silver PSU is >87-90% efficient at 20% load, compared to maybe 92-94% for a new 80+ Platinum model. If your system spends most of its time pulling a hundred Watts, that's the difference between 113W at the wall and 108W at the wall. How long do you have to run your PC before the extra 5 Watts costs more than the €150 new PSU?

If the old PSU is a low-quality risk that could harm other components, or it's starting to fail and bluescreen/reboot during peak load, then there's obviously a strong reason to replace it with a new one - but an older unit will be fine if it's a good quality PSU with plenty of inbuilt protections, a huge surplus of power delivery and a known history of easy life up until this point. If it were my PSU and that hardware, I'd stick with it. There's always a tiny risk, but spending €150 just to protect ~€300 of used hardware is a very steep and probably unnecessary insurance premium just for a little more peace of mind.
 
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#22

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I think that money related part of PSU topic is perceived by many wrong from maybe even all of the angles. Starting with "high" prices of good PSUs. Compare it with cost of your other components. Now look from longevity standpoint you potentially shorten with going one compromised and with shorter warranty. Saving shit on capacity and then needing to buy new, bigger one. Or savings from higher efficiency people never bother to calculate first. And ofc saving on keeping ancient unit being asking for trouble. People, just buy one not budget and not highend, with capacity way above your current needs and it will serve you well ten years making it in this long run the cheapest component you had in this decade... Maybe no need to save here even more and rather not much more? (beaten only by shockingly expensive, but used with two, three or why not fifteen sockets Noctua cooler lol).
 
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I would buy a mid range current PSU because of ATX 3 specs, the Corsair RMe is a solid choice with great reviews and affordable price

Kinda bumping into this thread. When is a good time to replace a good PSU? I have an EVGA SuperNova G2 1000 that has been rock solid for almost 10 years now. My warranty is finally about to expire in less than a year. Should I just keep on using this thing for years? Or just plan to replace once warranty is up? From what I remember reading, this is a rebranded Super Flower that was one of the best PSUs out back in 2015 so I could see it easily lasting many more years. I just like to be proactive, especially with power delivery.
A warranty is the precived average Lifespan of the product based on manufacturers testing, after warranty expires i would replace the PSU
 
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A warranty is the precived average Lifespan of the product based on manufacturers testing, after warranty expires i would replace the PSU
Not quite. if the warranty length was the average lifespan, then statistically, half of all PSUs would fail under warranty and the company would rapidly go out of business.

No, warranties are a gamble of how long companies think their units will last without failure. If they think 95% of products will last the warranty period, then they have to write off 5% of all units made as a loss, incurring additional costs through return shipping and RMA processing.

The calculation varies from product to product, and from company to company, but a PSU model is likely an abject, total failure if more than 4-5% of the units die before the warranty runs out. Manufacturer margins aren't that big because the PSU market is a long-established one with a huge amount of competition. If warranty returns are even 6-7% then they've suffered a huge setback and will need to recover from that using funding from elsewhere.

IMO if PSU has a 5 year warranty, 98% of those PSUs will last 5 years, even those that are run 24/7, and it's not unreasonable to expect them to last 10-15 years. I see beige PCs occasionally that have been running in a machine shop or lab since they were built in the '90s and they're still going after 30 years with the original PSU. Remember, warranties are a marketing department thing and they obviously favour company profit over consumer rights, meaning they are pessimistically short by a wide (and profitable) margin. @jonnyGURU, @crmaris, @TheLostSwede are likely far better positioned to comment on PSU longevity and BOM costs/failure rates.
 

#22

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From our - consumers - standpoint man can only guess what stands for warranty length of given product. There're at best sources rating quality like reviews. That's why I consider warranty length more like brand's attitude towards us and us paying for protected usability of product for given time. Common are products with quality definitely not fitting warranty length in both directions. E.g. higher-end be quiet! PSUs like Straight and Dark Powers having 5-year warranty for years until recently when representing level being more than likely to last double that. Or my country's Silentium PC, now rebranded as Endorfy. They are typical value brand, so one offering product similar to others, but a little cheaper thanks to cutting corners on quality. E.g. their Fluctus fans are great performers and come with extreme for a fan six-year warranty. Details like FDB bearing or rubber corners further suggest they aim quality here. In reality plastic is from the cheapest, rubber corners peal off like crazy and there're so many reports from people stating that fan started to rattle or ARGB broke down after few months or even weeks. It's typical cheap fan, garbage with six-year warranty.
 
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I personally look at warranties as the minimum the manufactuer reliably expects to get out of a unit.

Yes you can get more but the further you go beyond that warranty period the chances/risk of something happening increases.
Now as Chrispy said investing 50% of your parts value in a new PSU for that new warranty doesnt make much financial sense. On the flipside however, saving that 150 Euro on that new 2-3k euro build because your old PSU "is good enough" is a false economy IMO. Especially as capacitors age they start to lose their capacitance and also modern hardware has power draw spikes that are magnitudes larger than that PC from 10 years ago. So while it may have been fine with your old gear. That spike from your 7900xtx/4090 could be enough to send it to the PSU Scrapyard in the sky and when it does what prevents it from taking something else out along the way at that point.
 
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