Search Terms (that'll be helpful):
"Type-E to Type-C" (The 'modern' mobo header for 3.x Type-Cs, is called USB Type-E)
"Panel Mount" (tiny chance it'll be easily 'modded in')
View attachment 320268
"Flush Mount" (cut hole, stick in, 'pops in' like a drywall anchor. Common for automotive installs)
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Opinion/Option for USB 3.2 Type-A:
Use the existing "USB 3.0".
AFAIK (Non-Type-C) USB 3.# Gen# all use the same connectors and pinouts as USB 3.
0 did*. You'll
probably be fine using the existing FP USB3 Type-A for USB 3.# Gen# Type-A.
Ever notice poorer audio quality with FP ports, or front USB2.0 transferring slower than the same 'gen' port on the back? It's EMI-related.
Thankfully, Even 'old' chassis' "USB 3.0" FP has been generally much better-shielded than USB 1.#-2.0 FP leads.
*IIRC, USB3.0 is electrically identical to USB3.2 Gen1. TBQH, I'm not sure USB 3.2 Gen2 20Gbps Type-A "front panel" leads + receptacles are any different than "USB 3.0" of the same.
In this case , think:
-multi-gig / 10GBASE-T ethernet over short runs of 'CAT5' vs. "proper" CAT6A
(or S/FTP / STP).
Properly connected to your USB3.2 Header (or extended from a rear-mobo 3.2 Type-A), you should still get expected/rated speeds.
Note: regardless of how well constructed and shielded your new USB 3.2 FP ports/extensions are, you still may get a little less bandwidth vs. direct into mobo rear-I/O.
Also, keep in mind that a single Type-C uses 2(two) USB-connections(lanes?).
If your board has both a USB3 19-pin header and a USBC Type-E header, you'll be g2g just modding-in a USB-C.
An Option for Type-C:
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IMHO,
Desolder the 'rightmost' USB-A 1.0-2.0,
2-part kneadable epoxy (and/or hot glue) the new Type-C female
(like, from a M-F ext. cable or Type-E-to-Type-C adapter) onto the PCB, in-line w/ the rectangular hole in the case.
You'd end-up with 1x USB 2.0-A, 1x USB 3.2-C, and 1x USB 3.2-A. All, without having to do any surgery to the case, and only needing 1x USB-C extension/Type-E adapter.
You might even be able to get a USB-A rubber dust cover and exacto-out the USB-C's shape for a hole-filling plug around the new Type-C. Some moldable eraser, hot glue, etc. to mould and 'fill in' the open space around the new Type-C receptacle would work too.
'filling in around' it, and making it snug with the existing Type-A cutout will provide some support/strain-relief for the new receptacle. 'should look nicer, too.
If one were careful to keep the moldable-material out of the Type-C receptacle (ex. some cables I've bought have 'protectors' in the plugs), one could use some wood or something to keep the uncured material flush w/ the case's surface.
(or, come back after curing, and use a razor blade/xacto knife, to carefully flush-trim)
Some black paint (applied with a toothpick) or black marker on the face of newly-created 'molded receptacle' would make it look less out of place. (preferably, removed from the case; to avoid ruining the finish on the case)
You could also delete both the USB 2.0's entirely, and use the PCB as mounting-point for both a Type-C and a Type-A USB 3.2 receptacle.
(Or, 2x 3.2 Type-A using something like this, and 1x USB-C 3.2 in the 3.0A's 'spot' using a "panel mount" Female-C.)
You'd be 100% USB 3.2-capable up front without
cutting on the case, and while only-needing 1 or 2 affordable-available extensions/adapters.