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TechPowerUp $800 Build Guide

btarunr

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In our latest entry to the Builder's Digest series, we put together something that can game at $800, complete with a monitor and peripherals.

Show full review
 
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I like your choice of peripherals. I've seen people paying more for mouse+keyboard than GPU.
 
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Nice build but why include the monitor, when buying a PS4/XboX you still need to buy a TV or monitor in order to play.
So if this is a build to "rival" a console use the 149USD on something else, like a upgraded CPU/GPU.
 
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i3 + R9 290, why? :(
 
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I like your choice of peripherals. I've seen people paying more for mouse+keyboard than GPU.
While I will agree that some people spend too much on their peripherals (or not enough on their GPU), the importance of good peripherals can't be forgotten. After all, they're the parts of the computer that connect you to your game.
 
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Nice work. I'd add a 1or 2TB hard drive, and OS, then your up in the $1000 range.
 
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i built a gaming rig very close to this, although i didnt buy peripheral, and a monitor, it games JUST fine, all the reviews aside that say the i3 will hold things back, it just isnt that big of an issue(without the highest end cards)but what would someone expect for $800?so crying about a 10 fps difference over an i5 or an i7 is silly..I used a much weaker GPU, since i found a Brand new 7870Ghz edition sold by diamond multimedia on ebay for $99usd. But it runs BF4, BFHL, Borderlands,Metro,and many other titles just fine @ 1080. instead of that ssd, i went Seagate barracuda 1Tb. but people make different choices. good work.
 

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CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($174.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Biostar Hi-Fi H81S2 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Patriot Signature 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($36.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Silicon Power S60 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($46.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 290 4GB TurboDuo Video Card ($252.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($41.99 @ Directron)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($37.99 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: LG 23MP57HQ-P 60Hz 23.0" Monitor ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Cooler Master CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($26.00 @ NCIX US)
Headphones: Corsair Raptor HS40 7.1 Channel Headset ($34.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $821.91

Through some choice changes i might be $21 over but managed to squeeze in an i5

Extra storage can be added later. still even with OS and HDD you could round out this PC for about $900 total.

To be honest I would just repurpose a keyboard / mouse from family members save the $26 up front. Use some crappy speakers for the short term. And boost the GPU up to a GTX 970 instead.
 
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I would get R9 280 in order to get FX6350 + a decent mobo. GPU is changeable much easier than CPU-MOBO-RAM. Nevertheless, a decent choise of parts there. :toast:
 

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I would get R9 280 in order to get FX6350 + a decent mobo. GPU is changeable much easier than CPU-MOBO-RAM. Nevertheless, a decent choise of parts there. :toast:

Most people will not bother upgrading parts, so getting it right the first time round would be better. Perfectly valid idea for tinkerers though.
 

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I would not take the 128 GB SSD unless I had extra cash for a 1 TB HDD too if the primary purpose of this build is for gaming. Games are getting extremely large in size. The developer for Star Citizen said a while back that the finished game would probably be around 100 GB. GTA V needs 65 GB iirc.

If the budget could not be wiggled to get a 128 GB SSD and a 1 TB HDD then I would take the HDD and leave out the SSD but I keep a large library of games. I like to be able to load up any of my games when I want to play them and not have to wait on my crappy internet connection to re-download them to be able to play them.
 

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Nice build but why include the monitor, when buying a PS4/XboX you still need to buy a TV or monitor in order to play.
So if this is a build to "rival" a console use the 149USD on something else, like a upgraded CPU/GPU.

I agree, I don't think the monitor/TV should be part of the build price. In fact, I would assume more people already have an HDTV if they are looking at gaming PCs or consoles. They can just use that.

However, I'd say you must include the price of Windows in the build, so that's $100.

i3 + R9 290, why? :(

Because it is a good combination. The i3 won't noticeably hold back the R9 290, and it will generally handle all other tasks just fine.
 
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This may be controversial, but I have to ask.

Where is the budget for an OS? Neither build has included an OS.


I don't want you to have to trumpet something like 10 is better than 7, or anything like that. What I'd like to have acknowledged is that you've got a $250 GPU and a $149 monitor, and they're the only two things more expensive than an OEM copy of the OS to make the computer run (the processor is about the same as a discounted professional edition of Windows 7).




If you're assuming that you game on Linux, then maybe a good place to start is there. If not, it's rather unethical to claim you can build a $800 PC to game without any way to play said games.
 

crazyeyesreaper

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I agree more with newtekie drop monitors keyboard mouse headset. Everyone has tvs mice and keyboards laying around or have family who do. Remove those add in the OS and blam.
 
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I have my doubts if 500W psu is enough for the R290. I have a Seasonic g450 which has 3A less on +12V rail and it would occasionally reset with GTX970 + stock i5 3350P due to a random spike pushing it over the edge. R290 pulls ~70W (or 6A) more in peak.
 
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newtekie1

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I agree more with newtekie drop monitors keyboard mouse headset. Everyone has tvs mice and keyboards laying around or have family who do. Remove those add in the OS and blam.

I wouldn't say remove the keyboard and mouse, after all a console comes with a controller, so the PC compared to it should have some way to control it as well. But I will say dropping the heatset is a good idea. Again, most people have HDTVs and they use the speakers on that. That is what they are likely to do with the console, so the PC should be the same.

I don't want you to have to trumpet something like 10 is better than 7, or anything like that. What I'd like to have acknowledged is that you've got a $250 GPU and a $149 monitor, and they're the only two things more expensive than an OEM copy of the OS to make the computer run (the processor is about the same as a discounted professional edition of Windows 7).

Windows 10 Home is $100 exactly(well $99.99), and that is all they would need. The argument for which is better, 7, 8 or 10 could rage on forever, but IMO the guide should include the latest version. Let them decide if they want something older.
 
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Windows 10 Home is $100 exactly(well $99.99), and that is all they would need. The argument for which is better, 7, 8 or 10 could rage on forever, but IMO the guide should include the latest version. Let them decide if they want something older.

We seem to have been making the same point at the same time. You beat me to the punch on posting.

My concern is that older versions of windows had limitations of hardware. Heck, I transitioned to Windows XP x64 because I wanted more RAM. Even Windows 7 was locked on RAM quantity (you had to buy professional if you were populating something on the x79 platform fully). It seems like those limitations have been moved out in Windows 10 (192 GB for Home seems to be more than roomy enough), but establishing parity between the versions may be something worth pursuing.


I'll give you the general sentiment about using the latest OS. At the same time, you quote an OEM copy of windows 10, not a retail version ($119.99). If you're writing a guide with pricing, establish everything. If not, this is a segment where you can't trust the author, because you aren't sure about their assumptions. While not intentionally dishonest, it's easy to call that misleading.
 

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It seems like those limitations have been moved out in Windows 10 (192 GB for Home seems to be more than roomy enough)

They were actually removed in Win8.

I'll give you the general sentiment about using the latest OS. At the same time, you quote an OEM copy of windows 10, not a retail version ($119.99).

If you are building a system, the OEM version is what most people will go with. There really isn't a reason to buy the retail version.
 
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An ssd in this build is bad idea, 128Gb is enough for OS and a couple games, for the money 1Tb HDD would be far better...
 
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They were actually removed in Win8.



If you are building a system, the OEM version is what most people will go with. There really isn't a reason to buy the retail version.

I'm scratching my head here, so let's talk.

I can see someone still recommending 7, because it's tested and the UI is immediately effective on traditional devices out of the box. I can see recommending 10 because it's the new hotness, and as such has the most potential life left in it. My problem is why in Hades windows 8.1 would be considered. Yes, they moved the limits on the base version (or whatever you want to call it, due to Home disappearing that generation) to 128 GB, but why does it matter? It's like touting the benefits of Vista three months after 7 launched.

OEM is a pain if you've ever got to change hardware. In three years you'll want to update that CPU and motherboard, and your OEM license doesn't allow you to change motherboards. Heck, I experienced this with my x79 build (the Gigabyte UD5 board sucked), so I spent a few extra dollars to get a retail copy. One call to MS, and my new board is legally installed with a working OS. $20 out of the gate saved an expenditure of $100. I'll take an extra $80 in my pocket, for a slightly better upgrade capability. If your computer will never have the CPU and motherboard changed, more power to you. If you're realistic, choosing an OEM copy, and being a compulsive upgrader, isn't cost effective.



The counterargument is people lie to MS. It isn't hard to get them to reactivate an OEM copy when you upgrade, as long as you indicate your motherboard fried. I can understand that sentiment, but sometimes it's easier to go to tech support and simply tell them to give you what you paid for, rather than weasel your way through getting a reactivation. Only time will tell with windows 10, but I'd prefer to have a Teflon backside and not need it, rather than need it and not have it.
 

btarunr

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$2,400 "Battlestation" build or $1,200 "Performance" build next Friday?
 
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It isn't hard to get them to reactivate an OEM copy when you upgrade, as long as you indicate your motherboard fried. I can understand that sentiment, but sometimes it's easier to go to tech support and simply tell them to give you what you paid for, rather than weasel your way through getting a reactivation.

This licensing restriction sucks from an end-user's point of view. I paid for an operating system license; what I do to my hardware is none of Microsoft's business.
 
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$2,400 "Battlestation" build or $1,200 "Performance" build next Friday?

I vote for "Performance" next. I'd like to see where it falls in between the two previous builds. Save the "Battlestation" for the grand finale.
 

btarunr

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I vote for "Performance" next. I'd like to see where it falls in between the two previous builds. Save the "Battlestation" for the grand finale.

Grand Finale is xXx_I'mRich*n05c0p3*_xXx.
 
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