Ghetto Mods

[Nordic]

I invented a creative way of fixing broken SATA power ports.... with electric tape
My neighbor's kids broke it, along with SATA connector on a 1TB barracuda. The drive also survived, but my hands were busy soldering, so no pics.
View attachment 80810

Do you got a way to fix that on the HDD?

 

[silentbogo]

Do you got a way to fix that on the HDD?

Only a surgical transplant can fix that.
Show me the photo, and I'll tell you exactly what you can do.

 

[Prima.Vera]

Intel said that I can't connect 4K monitor to HD3000. I said "Go ahead and try to stop me!"

(Only 30Hz, though...)

How is the mouse handling and usual desktop experience on 30Hz?

 

[silentbogo]

Ok, this may not fall into general topic of this forum, but here's the ghettoest ghetto mod of the day:

Got a damaged ECU from my neighbor (he is an auto-mechanic).
One trace was completely incinerated, both IGBTs were dead, and the entire board was covered in soot and lots of flux from the previous repair. Apparently someone tried to fix it before me, because IGBTs were mismatched, and one of them was also misplaced, shorting collector to the ground (which caused a burned PCB trace).

Buying a new ECU would cost half of what the car it came from is worth...
So, after a short trip to electronics store, 5 minutes with isopropyl and a toothbrush, and another 5 minutes with soldering iron and rework station, the car finally came back to life.
Both IGBTs were replaced with original ones, and the burnt trace was replaced with a wire. Total cost: $3.

 

[xvi]

Ok, this may not fall into general topic of this forum, but here's the ghettoest ghetto mod of the day:
View attachment 81179 View attachment 81180
Got a damaged ECU from my neighbor (he is an auto-mechanic).
One trace was completely incinerated, both IGBTs were dead, and the entire board was covered in soot and lots of flux from the previous repair. Apparently someone tried to fix it before me, because IGBTs were mismatched, and one of them was also misplaced, shorting collector to the ground (which caused a burned PCB trace).

Buying a new ECU would cost half of what the car it came from is worth...
So, after a short trip to electronics store, 5 minutes with isopropyl and a toothbrush, and another 5 minutes with soldering iron and rework station, the car finally came back to life.
Both IGBTs were replaced with original ones, and the burnt trace was replaced with a wire. Total cost: $3.

Nice fix! Can I send you my body control module? My 12v accessory power relay keeps cycling every time the door chime goes off (which it does for door, seatbelt, low fuel indicator, etc). Need to pull it out and see if there's any visible damage.

 

[JunkBear]

Nice fix! Can I send you my body control module? My 12v accessory power relay keeps cycling every time the door chime goes off (which it does for door, seatbelt, low fuel indicator, etc). Need to pull it out and see if there's any visible damage.

You drive à GM?

 

[xvi]

You drive à GM?

Indeed. 98 Pontiac Grand Prix.

 

[JunkBear]

Indeed. 98 Pontiac Grand Prix.

Dont mess with rebuild they have so much in scrapyard. Maybe you should check also if Cavalier-Sunfire or Monte Carlo for compatibility.

 

[silentbogo]

So, yesterday I have received a semi-working mechanical keyboard: Zalman ZM-K500.

The keyboard is in relatively good condition, except some scratches and rust on the red plate, and half-a-dozen of non-working keys.
My first thought was to switch places critical H, D, Esc and 7 with some unused keys, like Ins, Scroll Lock, Print Screen or media keys.
Good thing I was not in a hurry and decided to test, whether I can fix the keys themselves.
Here's some pics of the process:
1) I removed the caps and completely disassembled the keyboard

2) I moved some clamp holders from smaller to larger keys (L_shift works fine without a clamp)

3) I de-soldered the broken Kailh red switches

4) Completely disassembled each key, cleaned the contact surface and adjusted the flexible plate for better (more responsive) contact

5) Tested each key with my fancy multimeter tweezers, before soldering them back.

End result - is a fully workng $15 mechanical keyboard. I am currently using it to type this post.

I've never used a mechanical KB before, so it takes some time to get used to it, but so far the feeling is very pleasant. The only thing that bothers me now, is a sticky "I", so I guess I will leave you, guys, to reading my jumble, and go to my "workshop" for a few minutes to warm up soldering station and fix this thing one last time.

P.S. Since this KB was so cheap, I've decided to spend an additional $30 on a box-full of Gateron switches (120ct). Maybe my next project will be a full redo and hardware mod of this keyboard.
I'll try to post some updates next week.

 

[silkstone]

So, yesterday I have received a semi-working mechanical keyboard: Zalman ZM-K500.

The keyboard is in relatively good condition, except some scratches and rust on the red plate, and half-a-dozen of non-working keys.
My first thought was to switch places critical H, D, Esc and 7 with some unused keys, like Ins, Scroll Lock, Print Screen or media keys.
Good thing I was not in a hurry and decided to test, whether I can fix the keys themselves.
Here's some pics of the process:
1) I removed the caps and completely disassembled the keyboard
View attachment 81247 View attachment 81245 View attachment 81243 View attachment 81244
2) I moved some clamp holders from smaller to larger keys (L_shift works fine without a clamp)

3) I de-soldered the broken Kailh red switches
View attachment 81248
4) Completely disassembled each key, cleaned the contact surface and adjusted the flexible plate for better (more responsive) contact
View attachment 81242
5) Tested each key with my fancy multimeter tweezers, before soldering them back.

End result - is a fully workng $15 mechanical keyboard. I am currently using it to type this post.
View attachment 81241
I've never used a mechanical KB before, so it takes some time to get used to it, but so far the feeling is very pleasant. The only thing that bothers me now, is a sticky "I", so I guess I will leave you, guys, to reading my jumble, and go to my "workshop" for a few minutes to warm up soldering station and fix this thing one last time.

P.S. Since this KB was so cheap, I've decided to spend an additional $30 on a box-full of Gateron switches (120ct). Maybe my next project will be a full redo and hardware mod of this keyboard.
I'll try to post some updates next week.

That KB is notorious for bad switched
I purchased one before my current KB and it came with 2 dead switches.

 

[silentbogo]

That KB is notorious for bad switched
I purchased one before my current KB and it came with 2 dead switches.

That's what I figured. Before I unplugged the KB to fix the "I" key, my right ALT broke again. I guess I'll have to wait for my Gaterons to fully enjoy it...

What really sucks is that there is not a single place to buy any kind of mechanical switches in Ukraine. I either have to order questionable stock from China, or pay $40+ shipping to get Cherry MX from element14.
Even my local electronic component distributor had stopped selling overpriced Kailh blacks and reds since 2013 or maybe even earlier.

 

[dorsetknob]

have you tried KpuGteBn Computer Services.ru
I'm sure they (like to ) Deliver Via Tank to the Ukraine

 

[silentbogo]

All good now.
Switched my "home" and "mail" keys with I and Alt.
At least now I can type like a normal human being

 

[HUSKIE]

DIY Coffee table Test bench still in progress please see pictures.. hope you like it.

Materials
small coffee table from Argos £15
old case
drill
hack saw
etc etc....

Made an HOLES


HDD CADDY from old case
PSU
DVD


Underneath


power/reset buttons
hdd/power lights


Upright position


top view


PSU BRackets

 

[CAPSLOCKSTUCK]

hope you like it..

like it?

i fuckin loves it.......

 

[stinger608]

like it?

i fuckin loves it.......

Oh hell yeah!!! That's frigging great.

I have a "modular" coffee table thingy that I was going to do this same thing a couple years ago. This may inspire me to actually do it.

 

[silentbogo]

I'm starting a new project for one of my buddies: an uber-ghetto gaming rig for christmas!
The ultimate goal is to stay within $200 mark, while making it fast enough for his son to play Dota2 and for him to play WoT.

I brought a shitton of various PC crap to my house, dug through my "do-it-later" pile and it seems like a feasible goal!
Actually, it's coming out much better than I expected.

Here's a little snapshot of my upcoming weekend:


Photo #1 is a front panel USB(both dead)
Photo #2 is a contraption, inserted by someone instead of a PWR_LED.

That pile of garbage is ASUS Vento with once very good Cooler Master RS460! Passive PFC!

Parts List (so far):
- i3-2100 [$40]
- ASUS B75M with constant "New CPU Installed" error [$15]
- 2x4GB Kingston ValueRAM DDR3-1333 [$30]
- Inno3D GTX 650Ti with preliminary diagnosis: 12V short circuit [$15]
- Dusty and dirty ASUS Vento case bundled with old, but functional CM RS460 [$15]
- Intel Box HSF, new and free
- 500GB WD Green, used excellent condition [$18]

Things I've done so far:
- Fixed a videocard by replacing a couple of MOSFETs
- Fixed a motherboard by removing a CPU detection circuit (just 1 transistor and 1 resistor).
- Tested all of the above for almost 24 hours, while installing Windows 10, updates and software yesterday
- Cleaned a case

What I still have left:
- Clean and test the PSU
- Fix USB on front panel
- Replace the Power LED
- Test the GPU one more time

I'll try and post some updates later today.

 

[lyra]

no proper mounting hardware for a narrow ilm? no problem!
using various bolts from the cooler hardware and a couple of scrap bits of metal cut to size and holes drilled in the right places i made my own mounting hardware and learned that just cause it says lga1366 compatible on the box doesnt mean its compatible with my kind of lga1366

 

[infrared]

That's a proper mod not a ghetto mod Needs more zip ties!

 

[dorsetknob]

I'm starting a new project for one of my buddies:

But but but where are the Reams of Sponsers logo's and the multitude of boxes being unpacked and multiple pics of Bit's from every Angle

Oops

 

[silentbogo]

But but but where are the Reams of Sponsers logo's and the multitude of boxes being unpacked and multiple pics of Bit from every Angle

Oops

Oh, shit... I knew I forgot something

 

[silentbogo]

A little update on my weekend project.
1) The front panel PCB got a new pair of USB connectors

2) A power LED got a proper connector and was re-installed with some hot glue

3) PSU went through intensive cleaning and sanitation. Also, I had to install a new fan, and the guy I bought it from will get an ass-kicking tomorrow ("The power supply is working perfectly!" he said).
The fan was taken from a no-name dead PSU, which served me well for the past 3 months...
...as an organ donor

4) Everything is put together, and looks rather nice
I don't like that ve-e-e-ery small gap between GPU and HDD, but I don't think it will be a problem.

 

[silentbogo]

Kids, please don't do this at home....

 

[dont whant to set it"']

Kids, please don't do this at home....

Clean and organised I see, not to sound critical but that desk is missing a soldering iron,hot glue gun, zipties,extra ductape...

 

[silentbogo]

Clean and organised I see, not to sound critical but that desk is missing a soldering iron,hot glue gun, zipties,extra ductape...

The camera on my phone gets "tired" sometimes and can't focus anywhere beyond certain distance.... It's all there, but it did not make it into a shot.
Here we go, a bit better one:


Glue gun is somewhere under the desk.

The battery is almost ready. My Dell V131 will be super-happy


BTW, today I saw an online ad for some cheap used Tesla Model S cells! 3000-3200mAh per cell. I'm wondering if I should sell this Dell and find me a Lenovo X230 with a dead extended battery pack...
That's friggin 9cell at 3000mAh (over 100Wh!!!!!!! )