Your PC ATM

[DisabledHero]

hello fellow friends here I have my 1st ever custom water cooled pc build I have only ever built one pc before this one and that was a fan cooled. This is my first ever water cooled and only second ever pc build. I found the pc build very hard and frustrating I changed the look of the tubing around 13 times costing me around £200 pounds on PETG tubing alone 85% of the tubing now in the bin. The PC is not the fastest PC around but it is ok for what I need. The reservoirs I purchased was not correct for this case so I had to mount them the the centre part of the case on an angle allowing them to fit. The modifications was very tricky as they are glass reservoirs and each hold 1 litre of fluid. So to make them take the weight and be very sturdy taken a lot of customisation but got there in the end. I did originally spray all the inside of the case white but I then changed my mind to have the mirrored finish. The full back on the pc is acrylic mirror along with the centre part of the case and the floor looks smart. The colour of the build should be yellow grey and white but I found it very difficult to get a grey fluid so I tried the silver but as you can see does not look anything like grey. The red / pink was originally yellow but looked very thick and not very attractive so I changed the yellow to the colour that is now displayed. I was originally going for the GPU tubing all custome bends and the CPU going for 90 degrees fit9tngs but found that very complicated as for my first build so stuck with the fittings and the odd bend. The colours in the cables should just be white grey and yellow but my little girl wanted some pink so I gave her the pink. That's the reason for the pink / red but I am sure it does not spoil the build. I am happy with the look of the pc I just hope I can get some good feedback from you guys. Please do be as honest as possible as I need all the feedback I could possibly have I would also like to enter this pc in to competitions and other things that I can enter it in to. But I am new to all this and I do not know what or where about I can go to enter my pc in to competitions. Please do let me know what you think about my custom pc all the feedback would be amazing to hear please help thanks for taking you're time to read kind regards Leigh.
I do have many more images of the build from start to finish so if you would like to see more please ask.my pc specs are as below apparently someone told me it looks like a transformer ?

1. GTX 1080 zotac arctic storm
2. i7 6700K CPU
3. Maximus hero viii motherboard
4. 480gb SSD
5. 32gb RAM Hyper x ram
6. 2 X D5 Photon Reservoir/Pump Combo XSPC
7. Mono block
8. Full Barrow compression fittings and angles
9. 9 x RGB Thermaltake fans with controle box
10. Thermaltake fan controle
11. 2 x flow indicators
12. Full custom wireing done by myself.
13. Thermaltake 900 case is an outstanding case.
14. Custom mirrored back wall along with centre stand that the tubing runs through also the flooriong.

 

[Spektre]

meh ... rad in top exhaust is better, you are actually blowing hot air on the GPU by doing as you do, i only did once with a rad in the front but that was with a GPU full cover waterblock and idle/load temp on the CPU were higher .... funny eh? taking the air from inside the case actually lead to better temp since the airflow is better

question: is your Hydro in push pull configuration? because without the dust filter you can fit the fans between the chassis and the bezel oh wait you use the dust filter ... (never used it on my AIR540, it hinder the flow more than it help something)

actually in: 3 x120 mm intake (with dustfilter if you want) 2x120+ rad top exhaust 1x140 back exhaust you have a better airflow and no issue on the dust for the radiator
the Panzer Max allow the same type: 3x140 front (w dustfilter) 2x140 + rad exhaust (H115i) 1x120 back exhaust, no dust in the rad, no problems and better temps for the GPU and CPU

also:

i tested both way : no big differences at all, actually rad exhaust my idle/load on my 6600K @4.4 are 24°/50°

So, what is a push pull configuration? At any rate, maybe I'll try changing it around. Change out to 140mm and 120mm of these fans: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0149M97NU/?tag=tec06d-20

hello fellow friends here I have my 1st ever custom water cooled pc build I have only ever built one pc before this one and that was a fan cooled. This is my first ever water cooled and only second ever pc build. I found the pc build very hard and frustrating I changed the look of the tubing around 13 times costing me around £200 pounds on PETG tubing alone 85% of the tubing now in the bin. The PC is not the fastest PC around but it is ok for what I need. The reservoirs I purchased was not correct for this case so I had to mount them the the centre part of the case on an angle allowing them to fit. The modifications was very tricky as they are glass reservoirs and each hold 1 litre of fluid. So to make them take the weight and be very sturdy taken a lot of customisation but got there in the end. I did originally spray all the inside of the case white but I then changed my mind to have the mirrored finish. The full back on the pc is acrylic mirror along with the centre part of the case and the floor looks smart. The colour of the build should be yellow grey and white but I found it very difficult to get a grey fluid so I tried the silver but as you can see does not look anything like grey. The red / pink was originally yellow but looked very thick and not very attractive so I changed the yellow to the colour that is now displayed. I was originally going for the GPU tubing all custome bends and the CPU going for 90 degrees fit9tngs but found that very complicated as for my first build so stuck with the fittings and the odd bend. The colours in the cables should just be white grey and yellow but my little girl wanted some pink so I gave her the pink. That's the reason for the pink / red but I am sure it does not spoil the build. I am happy with the look of the pc I just hope I can get some good feedback from you guys. Please do be as honest as possible as I need all the feedback I could possibly have I would also like to enter this pc in to competitions and other things that I can enter it in to. But I am new to all this and I do not know what or where about I can go to enter my pc in to competitions. Please do let me know what you think about my custom pc all the feedback would be amazing to hear please help thanks for taking you're time to read kind regards Leigh.
I do have many more images of the build from start to finish so if you would like to see more please ask.my pc specs are as below apparently someone told me it looks like a transformer ?

Man, that thing is pretty. I thought I was neato for my all in one cooler lol. Good on you for adding in the pink. Love it.

 

[Ruru]

Another shot with a better image quality

Spoiler

 

[GreiverBlade]

So, what is a push pull configuration?.

your previous H75 was in Push-Pull configuration, the AIR540 allow for push-pull in front, tho it was practical for a double thick rad also ... by putting fan between chassis and bezel, and not using the dust filter (i don't have pet but i have a quite dusty environment, as the dust filter on my Panzer max show ... but even there not much dust was in the radiator when i dismantled the rig)
example (top should usually be exhaust ... warm air goes up but at that time i was in full intake front/top and back exhaust due to the configuration having 2 rad, if i had no rad all fan front in intake CPU rad would've been in exhaust configuration)


my actual setup is in pull configuration as the Panzer Max is a little tight on the top and i can't fit a second set of fan above the mobo as there is no spaces (thus no push-pull possible) tho i am tempted to try to reverse the fan and the rad (not before i get 2 more ML140 Pro White to go with )

nonetheless still looks nice

Change out to 140mm and 120mm of these fans: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0149M97NU/?tag=tec06d-20

actually the stock Corsair, albeit being noisier, have better rad performances than the NB B14-PS, and for case, well not really a case fan.
but i am kinda the same ... the Corsair ML120/140 i use are also static pressure instead of airflow fan (although Corsair define them as ... "balanced" but still categorized in "Static Pressure" )

 

[biffzinker]

Another shot with a better image quality

Wait a minute, that case looks familiar minus the window on the side panel.

I wanted the extra sound dampening on the side panel myself, and I see you switched the fans as well.

 

[Ruru]

Wait a minute, that case looks familiar minus the window on the side panel.

I wanted the extra sound dampening on the side panel myself, and I see you switched the fans as well.

Heh. Yeah, I sold the stock fans. 2x 140mm Jonsbo's on front and 120mm AIO rad on rear.

 

[DisabledHero]

So, what is a push pull configuration? At any rate, maybe I'll try changing it around. Change out to 140mm and 120mm of these fans: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0149M97NU/?tag=tec06d-20



Man, that thing is pretty. I thought I was neato for my all in one cooler lol. Good on you for adding in the pink. Love it.

thanks so much yea did mix if with some red dye some white some clear and a little purple it worked out ok I think thanks for the positive comment much appreciated

 

[Spektre]

your previous H75 was in Push-Pull configuration, the AIR540 allow for push-pull in front, tho it was practical for a double thick rad also ... by putting fan between chassis and bezel, and not using the dust filter (i don't have pet but i have a quite dusty environment, as the dust filter on my Panzer max show ... but even there not much dust was in the radiator when i dismantled the rig)
example (top should usually be exhaust ... warm air goes up but at that time i was in full intake front/top and back exhaust due to the configuration having 2 rad, if i had no rad all fan front in intake CPU rad would've been in exhaust configuration)
View attachment 85925 View attachment 85929

my actual setup is in pull configuration as the Panzer Max is a little tight on the top and i can't fit a second set of fan above the mobo as there is no spaces (thus no push-pull possible) tho i am tempted to try to reverse the fan and the rad (not before i get 2 more ML140 Pro White to go with )

nonetheless still looks nice
View attachment 85928


actually the stock Corsair, albeit being noisier, have better rad performances than the NB B14-PS, and for case, well not really a case fan.
but i am kinda the same ... the Corsair ML120/140 i use are also static pressure instead of airflow fan (although Corsair define them as ... "balanced" but still categorized in "Static Pressure" )

So I went ahead and stuck the radiator at the top, with the fans between the radiator and the chassis, exhausting. Now I'm idling at 45-50 degrees, so I'm not sure what went wrong lol... Should I put the fans under the radiator? Or should I add another layer of fans for a push/pull? And from what I can gather I want to stick with static pressure fans for my radiator. This crap is complicated. And expensive

 

[GreiverBlade]

So I went ahead and stuck the radiator at the top, with the fans between the radiator and the chassis, exhausting. Now I'm idling at 45-50 degrees, so I'm not sure what went wrong lol... Should I put the fans under the radiator? Or should I add another layer of fans for a push/pull? And from what I can gather I want to stick with static pressure fans for my radiator. This crap is complicated. And expensive

what went wrong ... well probably the tightening on the block ... and maybe the thermal past ... i change it every-time i move the block

i have 2 140mm fan on my H115i (stock corsair ) and as i wrote i idle at 24°~ (oh well i have a 6600K not a 7600K ... yet it shouldn't make a huge difference ... even if Kaby is ... hotter )

annnnddd to me it looks like you are thinking too much ...

get some Corsair ML 140/120 Pro rather than the NB B14-PS if you want good static pressure fans, (not that NoiseBlocker is bad ... i just do not like them i had some NB PK-2 Blacksilent Pro 140 not bad but too expensive and too basic ... even the Eloop type and their "innovative" bionic design ... plus they are 29mm thick instead of 25mm ) they are quite silent to me, unless you make them go at full RPM tho even at full RPM noise is acceptable, and even the standard SP140 of the H110 would be enough (as they are on my H115i) i keep my H115i on balanced profile in Corsair LINK ... no issues : cool and silent when i have my ML at 30% and ... well same when i put the ML at 100% even on load and the ML can also act as case fan if you want to accord them together, at last that's why i hide my SP140 between the chassis and the mesh (tho i could take 2 from the front and put them on the rad to try ... but i don't want to remove even 1 of the 3 and mess the beauty of my case's front ).

and it's only complicated and expensive if you do not search thoroughly... or even ask for recommendation

on the NB fans i love how on their website it's
B14-PS 1.200U/Min 4 Pin (PWM) 5.0 V / 12.0 V 24 dBA 142.6 m³ why don't they use CFM, it would be easier for comparison ... technically 142.6 cubic meter per hour is 83.931191 CFM which is still far from what almost any website that list them mention : 92cfm max

well that's still good since it push 92 at 1200 when the ML140 does a 1600 to push 97

and the ML is not even that expensive for a LED type
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181109

the non LED is even cheaper
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181107 5$ cheaper than the NB B14-PS (well 3x : 2 for the rad 1 for the exhaust )

and in 120 if you need 3 of them for the front
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181112

and you would keep it all Corsair

 

[Spektre]

So I went ahead and stuck the radiator at the top, with the fans between the radiator and the chassis, exhausting. Now I'm idling at 45-50 degrees, so I'm not sure what went wrong lol... Should I put the fans under the radiator?

what went wrong ... well probably the tightening on the block ... and maybe the thermal past ... i change it every-time i move the block

i have 2 140mm fan on my H115i (stock corsair ) and as i wrote i idle at 24°~ (oh well i have a 6600K not a 7600K ... yet it shouldn't make a huge difference ... even if Kaby is ... hotter )

annnnddd to me it looks like you are thinking too much ...

get some Corsair ML 140/120 Pro rather than the NB B14-PS if you want good static pressure fans, (not that NoiseBlocker is bad ... i just do not like them i had some NB PK-2 Blacksilent Pro 140 not bad but too expensive and too basic ... even the Eloop type and their "innovative" bionic design ... plus they are 29mm thick instead of 25mm ) they are quite silent to me, unless you make them go at full RPM tho even at full RPM noise is acceptable, and even the standard SP140 of the H110 would be enough (as they are on my H115i) i keep my H115i on balanced profile in Corsair LINK ... no issues : cool and silent when i have my ML at 30% and ... well same when i put the ML at 100% even on load and the ML can also act as case fan if you want to accord them together, at last that's why i hide my SP140 between the chassis and the mesh (tho i could take 2 from the front and put them on the rad to try ... but i don't want to remove even 1 of the 3 and mess the beauty of my case's front ).

and it's only complicated and expensive if you do not search thoroughly... or even ask for recommendation

on the NB fans i love how on their website it's
B14-PS 1.200U/Min 4 Pin (PWM) 5.0 V / 12.0 V 24 dBA 142.6 m³ why don't they use CFM, it would be easier for comparison ... technically 142.6 cubic meter per hour is 83.931191 CFM which is still far from what almost any website that list them mention : 92cfm max

well that's still good since it push 92 at 1200 when the ML140 does a 1600 to push 97

and the ML is not even that expensive for a LED type
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181109

the non LED is even cheaper
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181107 5$ cheaper than the NB B14-PS (well 3x : 2 for the rad 1 for the exhaust )

and in 120 if you need 3 of them for the front
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181112

and you would keep it all Corsair

Those MLs do get rave reviews. I didn't need to take the plate off the CPU, only flipped the radiator around, so I wouldn't need to reapply the thermal paste. Or should I replace it anyway since I'm using the paste that came with the cooler? Oh man , I've just set the fans to "balance" and they're running at 1900+ RPM. I think my PC might just take flight. If I manually set my rad fans at like say 900 RPM, they're perfectly quiet...

EDIT: Just took off the over clocking stuff with ASUS AI and my temps have chilled out. Now sitting pretty at 24 degrees.

 

[GreiverBlade]

Those MLs do get rave reviews. I didn't need to take the plate off the CPU, only flipped the radiator around, so I wouldn't need to reapply the thermal paste. Or should I replace it anyway since I'm using the paste that came with the cooler? Oh man , I've just set the fans to "balance" and they're running at 1900+ RPM. I think my PC might just take flight. If I manually set my rad fans at like say 900 RPM, they're perfectly quiet...

EDIT: Just took off the over clocking stuff with ASUS AI and my temps have chilled out. Now sitting pretty at 24 degrees.

these ML are reviewed by me and here on TPU i know at last 1 other user who are perfectly satisfied with them... ofc they get sick review.

tho Corsair : they will be loud (oh heck ... just as any other fans ... who care ... silent fan does not do their job properly anyway)

what ... the OC ... i have my 6600K at 4.4ghz while sitting at 24° idle (only did put the multi on 44 )

ohhh manually set to 900 ... oh well no luck then my SP140 run at 1440-1500 on balanced profile and unless the ML are not at 100% i don't hear them (the ML do only a "air being pushed" noise ... rather than a weird whistling and rattling the PK-2 did ) at 2520rpm is only touched when i put them on "fixed max" profile (and yep at that time they are just as loud as a taking off plane ... but at 1900rpm .... you are too sensitive tested them at 1920rpm fixed ... it's just a a bit noisy if in a quiet environment and out of a game, but that would not be annoying during a movie either )
(you know ... a AIO is either loud and cool or quiet and almost inneficient, tho a fan up to 1300rpm is deemed to be silent ... for me it's more up to 1600rpm)

on thermal past ... well, i never used the one Corsair pre applied, i only use either Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut or Cooler Master MasterGel Maker Nano (the latter, at the present moment)

 

[ibay190]

havent post since long time, my pc still same, after 3 years since then.

FX 6300 + GTX 760
MSI 970 Gaming Motherboard
Gskill 8gb ram
Seasonic m12ii 520
cm seidon 120XL

 

[Ruru]

Moar RAM and sleeved EPS + PCI-E cables + cablecombs coming next tuesday.

 

[theFOoL]

Installed WXp, W7, and W8.1 on one 500GB HDD For Fun

 

[khemist]

Block installed, still got my Nickel tubing to do.

 

[theFOoL]

For Fun

 

[Ruru]

Got those cables and cablecombs.

Spoiler

 

[Arrakis9]

Ghetto water cooling anyone? Made myself a tube res out of 2" pvc piping



Everything else is just stuff I had lying around

 

[CAPSLOCKSTUCK]

I put a gtx 970 in.

 

[sneekypeet]

Something I just got sorted out for testing

 

[khemist]

Very nice!.

 

[TheHunter]

My system is still the same, but now I got a new chair, old one had broken hydraulic..

Looks cool, was cheap too

 

[khemist]

Bit of an update.

 

[Toothless]

I gotta fix the PCI cable mess but here she is.

dam ram being all bloo

 

[khemist]

Daytime shot.