How to quickly & easily fix coil-whine(coil choke noise)

[lexluthermiester]

A forum user recently asked about Coil Whine, which is the noise a choke coil sometimes makes as it operates. This is almost always a video card problem, but can happen on any other computer or electronics components employing a choke in it's circuitry, including motherboards & power supplies.

I have for decades been using a very easy, quick and, most importantly, permanent fix. This fix works 95% of the time to quiet the noise to the point that it is not audible more than 8inches/20cm away. The rest of the time, the noise is barely audible.

A word of caution! If your part is under warranty, you may wish to consider doing an RMA. Many(not all) manufacturers actually want the noisy part back so they can test and analyze it for re-engineering to improve future designs. If your part is NOT under warranty, read on...

What you need:
Any tools required to disassemble the part to access the choke coils in question.
One or more containers of thin liquid cyanoacrylate based glue, commonly known as "Super Glue".

The brand of super glue you choose is not important. The type is. The type must be of low viscosity so it can quickly wick into the empty spaces between the choke coil and the board it's soldered to. The applicator having a narrow tip nozzle is important as it will make applying the glue more precise. See below.

The glue of choice is the proper SuperGlue brand, but I also use the brand that can be found at Harbor Freight.

For this newest example, I'm using a Sparkle GeForce GTX560 2GB which has been noisy.


This card only has 5 main choke coils so sealing them will be easy.

In this photo you can see how I'm applying the glue directly into the gap. Please note, the glue needs to be applied at multiple places around each choke housing shell, not just in one spot.

This photo shows how the glue has wicked itself into the gaps.

And here are two angles of the choke near the top of the card.

Notice how I've used a generous amount of glue to allow the wicking action to reach maximum effect.

It's important to use enough glue to completely wick the entire edge of the choke. Then you let it cure for at least an hour. While super glue generally sets between a few seconds to a few minutes, it still needs an hour or two to fully set and a day to fully cure. The card will be usable when the glue is set hard.

Once set the fix is complete and you're good to go! Put everything back together and test it out.

Please keep in mind: Choke Coil whine is not an exact science. Your experience and mileage might vary. Most cards will benefit from this method of noise dampening. Some more than others and there are cards that will have no effect at all, but such is less common.

A note about experience: Whether you're are an experience electronics tech or not, anyone can do this. However, if you're feeling a bit iffy, get some of the right type of glue and get a piece of junk electronics(thrift shop, yard sale or something you already have that's broken or you don't care about), take it apart and practice sealing parts on that PCB before starting. Post photo's here in the thread to show your work and ask for tips if you would like input. Expect to use some of your glue to practice, so buy extra.

Important Note:
After two reports and some research it has been discovered that the Loctite brand superglue found in many retail stores is a hybrid glue that has a consistency which falls inbetween gel types and the fluid types. As a superglue it might seem like a good choice but it is not. In this use-case-scenario, it is NOT recommended as it is not as fluidic as normal liquid superglue types and will not wick into the spaces between the choke coil housing and PCB! For the Loctite brand, Loctite 411 is the ideal product to use. However, Loctite is not the only brand that will work effectively

EDIT1: I have redone portions of this guide to give more details, info and better photo's. Thank's to the Mods for granting a perma-edit button so I can do ongoing updates to this thread!

EDIT2:
Adam Savage of Mythbuster's and YouTube fame has done a video that explains a lot about the properties and applications of CA glues.

Lot's of good info here, though where CA glue is applied here for coil noise dampening, the use of baking soda should NOT be used.

 

[gwynbleidd997]

Thank you for sharing this.
Did you happen to check what frequency the noise emitted from this choke(s) had? I'm just wondering if it's the same noise that I'm having right now (10kHz and 20kHz) and does it grow stronger when the GPU is under load? (for me GPU load doesn't matter, idle or not, it's always there with the same amplitude)

 

[lexluthermiester]

Did you happen to check what frequency the noise emitted from this choke(s) had? I'm just wondering if it's the same noise that I'm having right now (10kHz and 20kHz) and does it grow stronger when the GPU is under load?

Sounds about right for GPU coil whine. However...

(for me GPU load doesn't matter, idle or not, it's always there with the same amplitude)

...this would indicate it might be a motherboard choke or even a choke in the PSU. The above fix can be applied to each, but before you open up your PSU, make sure it's discharged. Unplug the power cord, press the system power button to drain the PSU capacitors fully. Then you're good. Same principles of glue application apply.

 

[Deleted member 24505]

Is the noise the chokes vibrating?

 

[Courier 6]

Is the noise the chokes vibrating?

yes, it is, it´s the same as an old transformer, like the 60 or 50Hz hum you hear from it

 

[TheoneandonlyMrK]

Is the noise the chokes vibrating?

It's actually the wire coils vibrating in the choke, normally. AFAIK.

 

[eidairaman1]

Should be able to use hot glue as well.

 

[Shrek]

Should be able to use hot glue as well.

Hot glue melts at a rather low temperature and would not flow into the coils.

 

[lexluthermiester]

Is the noise the chokes vibrating?

Quite literally.

It's actually the wire coils vibrating in the choke, normally. AFAIK.

Exactly.

Should be able to use hot glue as well.

No. Hot glue is too viscous and the heat from the hot glue could potentially be damaging...

and would not flow into the coils.

...and also this. Super glue wicks into the empty spaces and seals air flow so the vibrations have no exit. The vibration energy is dissipated within the coil and any resulting noise is muffled by the coil choke walls.

 

[mechtech]

I had an old seasonic platinum psu with this issue. I never did tear it apart, although it could have been one of the transformers also. I was going to encase the entire thing in epoxy, but that would ahve been expensive and probably would have overheated and cooked lol

 

[MarsM4N]

There are also non invasive methods to eliminate/reduce coil whine. Undervolting & FPS cap:

You can also try first to figure out if the coil whine comes from the GPU or the power supply, f.e. with Furmark for a GPU stress test & Prime95 for a CPU stress test.

Should be able to use hot glue as well.

That's what worked on older cards with open coils. The newer cards have all coils hidden under caps. But on a PSU you still can do it that way.

 

[eidairaman1]

There are also non invasive methods to eliminate/reduce coil whine. Undervolting & FPS cap:

You can also try first to figure out if the coil whine comes from the GPU or the power supply, f.e. with Furmark for a GPU stress test & Prime95 for a CPU stress test.



That's what worked on older cards with open coils. The newer cards have all coils hidden under caps. But on a PSU you still can do it that way.

Glad you saw what i was talking about

 

[R-T-B]

No. Hot glue is too viscous and the heat from the hot glue could potentially be damaging...

I used to use black automotive RTV sealant for this, back when I had to fix a bad coil transformer in a big ass 55" Panasonic plasma screen that sounded like an electric bug zapper or something. I don't know if it's better, but it's more electronically safe I think than glue. Not that either is particularly dangerous, but I was just being extra careful (I was once on a pretty fixed budget).

The thing about the RTV sealant is it "gives" a bit when it hardens (becomes rather rubbery), so you tend to need to use gobs and gobs of it. Unless the surface area is huge like mine, your idea is probably better. Good guide.

 

[Shrek]

Some RTV sealants release acetic acid (vinegar) when curing; this is lethal for electronics.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Nice little tutorial, Lex.

I will add this tip works for noisy and vibrating transformer plates too. And so does hot glue too - "IF" you do your homework and use the right type and temperature hot glue sticks.

Should be able to use hot glue as well.

Hot glue melts at a rather low temperature and would not flow into the coils.

eidairaman1 is correct - depending on the device and glue used.

As can be seen here, many circuit board coils use large, and exposed, wires. These coils typically are permanently fixed in place with epoxy resins at the factory - as are transformer plates. However, some devices may not have had the resins applied properly or thoroughly. Or sometimes, due to abuse, or perhaps rough handling during transport, those windings (or plates) break loose. Even years of heat up and cool down cycles can cause the bonds to break loose.

Hot glue works very well in those applications. Contrary to some of the comments ASSUMING YOU USE THE CORRECT HOT GLUE, it is not too hot and will not damage the device. Nor will it melt when you don't want it to.

"Low temperature" hot glue sticks are designed to melt at variety of temps. Some melt well below 90°C and are even marketed as "child safe" for arts and crafts projects. But those rated around 120° to 130°C work great for electronics. Hot enough to avoid remelting during normal equipment use, but not too hot to cause damage during application. It cools and sets quickly too. And the force applied when squeezing the glue gun trigger is enough to "inject" the glue into the gaps for an effective vibration and noise suppression solution.

Copper melts at 1,085°C so obviously not a problem there. And as seen here, all the most common plastics melt at much higher temps than 130°C.

One tip learned from years doing this - operate your electronics long enough for the coil or transformer to warm up thoroughly first while your glue gun is heating up. Then quickly power down, unplug from the wall, and then apply the glue. This will allow the glue to spread more easily (and predictably) - as opposed to cooling and setting too quickly.

I actually much prefer using hot glue sticks simply because I don't think I have ever emptied a bottle or tube of superglue before the rest hardened.

Some RTV sealants release acetic acid (vinegar) when curing; this is lethal for electronics.

Then, just as Lex points out with superglue, and I point out with hot glue, you must do your homework and buy the right kind. There are silicone adhesive/sealants designed for electronics too.

However, I would never use that for coils or transformers. I am sure it would work - if properly applied. But most typically take at least 24 hours curing time before you can use the device, and even several days more curing time to reach maximum strength. Superglue and hot glue take a few seconds.

 

[lexluthermiester]

Undervolting & FPS cap

In my experience, that not only doesn't work, it boarders on being "Smoke & Mirrors" kind of thing.

Coil whine generally exists when a system is NOT under load. Creating a load just makes it louder. The proper solution is to seal the coil so that the vibrations being generated can not produce sound, or produce much less sound.

That's what worked on older cards with open coils. The newer cards have all coils hidden under caps. But on a PSU you still can do it that way.

While a good point, hot glue is much too imprecise and cumbersome to be effective. I've tried it. It's a PITB. Liquid Super Glue is perfect because of it's wicking and quick setting qualities. Super Glue Gel will work in a pinch, but doesn't have the same effect.

I used to use black automotive RTV sealant for this

Have never tried that, but I imagine it would work as long as you can make a perfect(or near perfect) seal.

but it's more electronically safe I think than glue.

Super Glue is not dangerous to electronics, is chemically inert once cured and is a perfect electrical insulator.

Unless the surface area is huge like mine, your idea is probably better.

And this is because of the way Super Glue wicks into the cracks and seams before it cures.

Some RTV sealants release acetic acid (vinegar) when curing

This is true...

this is lethal for electronics.

...this is not. I use white vinegar to clean contacts and corrosion from electronics all the time. I'm careful to clean up excess, but what isn't wiped away evaporates within an hour or so. The type of acid that seeps out of RTV sealant evaporates quickly and is in such a low amount that anything that might get trapped(enclosed) would be harmless.

 

[Bill_Bright]

...this is not. I use white vinegar to clean contacts and corrosion from electronics all the time.

I agree and do too. Pure vinegar has been used to clean corrosion off battery terminals, probably since the invention of the battery. Diluted 50/50 with water works great on corroded electrical contacts. Full strength if really corroded. Then wipe with a clean damp cloth, or a quick blast with electrical contact cleaner and be good to go.

A tablespoon with 24 ounces of demineralized water and a clean 100% cotton microfiber cloth works great on monitor screens too.

And I agree once again with Lex (we are on a roll today! about undervolting. It might stop it, or at least make it inaudible. But it does NOT "fix" the problem. The problem is physical - loose coil windings or transformer plates vibrating and generating noise. You can undervolt all you want. They will still be loose.

So the only way to "fix" (as in "repair") the problem is to "fix" (as in "hold in place") those loose items.

 

[Shrek]

Can silicone sealant be used to insulate and waterproof electronic components? (newbedev.com)

"If it smells like vinegar then it's acid cure."

"Do not use "acid cure" silicone rubber for electronics."

 

[lexluthermiester]

Can silicone sealant be used to insulate and waterproof electronic components? (newbedev.com)

"If it smells like vinegar then it's acid cure."

"Do not use "acid cure" silicone rubber for electronics."

Interesting. Good to know!

 

[Bill_Bright]

"Do not use "acid cure" silicone rubber for electronics."

All you are doing, Andy, is verifying what was said before. We must do our homework first to ensure we buy products that are safe to be used for whatever we are doing.

In this case, make sure you only buy electronic grade silicone sealants and adhesives. They are easy to find.

And I will point out that there are even many silicone adhesive TIMs (thermal interface materials) that are specifically designed to glue heat sinks on to devices that do not use a mechanical heat sink mounting mechanism. For example, MasterSil 705TC Silicone Adhesive or Easycargo Heatsink with Silicone Thermal Glue Kit.

 

[R-T-B]

Some RTV sealants release acetic acid (vinegar) when curing; this is lethal for electronics.

The one I used said it was safe for electronics. Anyhow, obviously verify, and probably just don't do what I did, because SuperGlue is just better.

But most typically take at least 24 hours curing time before you can use the device, and even several days more curing time to reach maximum strength. Superglue and hot glue take a few seconds.

Yeah, there are a few reasons Lex's approach here is far better. I was indeed without a TV for a good day.

 

[ThaiTaffy]

I'm curious about this, I'm not a fan of using super glue near heat sources as the fumes given off by cooked super glue can be pretty brutal so I'll try some solder mask. But I have a led controller that sounds like an RC car so it went in a cupboard, I'll find it later and test.

 

[lexluthermiester]

I'm not a fan of using super glue near heat sources as the fumes given off by cooked super glue can be pretty brutal

This does not happen after curing is complete, which takes a day or two. I've smelled this kind of problem and I've used this on my personal and family equipment.

so I'll try some solder mask.

I'll bet that works well! Solder mask is generally a low viscosity enamel-ish paint type coating, so it'll wick into cracks and seams very well. Downside, it will take a day of dry/curing time. Super Glue is good to go in an hour. Still, far be from me to tell people what to do with their own stuff. I once used model enamel paint because I was out of super glue, and it worked. I had to thin it out a bit to get the wicking effect and I later did a second coat, still it worked well.


Note to other users, this thread was created to share an effective and easy fix with everyone. Alternate methods & suggestions are always welcome. However, let's keep things friendly and welcoming. Thank You!

 

[Shrek]

I'm curious about this, I'm not a fan of using super glue near heat sources as the fumes given off by cooked super glue can be pretty brutal so I'll try some solder mask.

Try transformer varnish

 

[lexluthermiester]

Try transformer varnish

That would likely work well too!