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How to remove CPU cooler with old liquid metal from the CPU ?

iZip

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So I got my hands on a secondhand PC with a custom water loop, and I'm in the process of cleaning everything, repasting, etc. The issue is that I don't know how to remove the CPU waterblock from the CPU/motherboard.
According to the seller, there is liquid metal underneath the block, and there wasn't any mention of how long he had it in there. I read on Reddit that liquid metal can crystalize and cause damage, so now I'm kind of afraid the CPU and block are now forever stuck on the motherboard. So far, I tried to heat up the CPU a bit, but based on the motherboard errors, I didn't even make it to Windows.

Any ideas on how to get the cooler of ?


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Since you have an LGA socket you don't really need to worry about bending pins. You not being able to run the system is an issue, so you are going to have to heat the block up in someway. I would unscrew the block and use a hair dryer to heat it, gently wiggle it , and pry with a plastic tool until it comes off. GL!
 

iZip

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Since you have an LGA socket you don't really need to worry about bending pins. You not being able to run the system is an issue, so you are going to have to heat the block up in someway. I would unscrew the block and use a hair dryer to heat it, gently wiggle it , and pry with a plastic tool until it comes off. GL!
I don't really worry about bending the pins, but I do worry about breaking the motherboard, as it bends when I apply pulling force. I was running the system when I was testing it, so it's probably something with me only connecting the motherboard and CPU power pins. I'm going to try the hairdryer and report back.
 
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Hi,
Drain loop
Lay case on it's back
Cover the board "paper towels" as close to the socket as you can and lift straight up.
 
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@iZip
Use this, works like a charm:

OIP-C (2).jpg
 

iZip

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Hi,
Drain loop
Lay case on it's back
Cover the board "paper towels" as close to the socket as you can and lift straight up.
Hi, thanks for answering. The first two steps are already done, but the lifting up part seems to be the problem.

@iZip
Use this, works like a charm:

View attachment 277861
I might try tomorrow, as I don't have these on me at the moment.


I tried the hairdryer, but it didn't work out. The picture is what I'm stuck on.
 

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Hi,
Taking the back plate nuts off might help so you can rotate it both ways a little more
 
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Try prying it off at an angle (eg. pull up on one or both of the waterblock mounts next to the memory slots).
 
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I tried that one just before the hairdryer procedure.
Hi,
Welp
I'd try a little force tapping "rotating" it both directions with a couple screw drivers
If this doesn't work remove the board from the case so you can get better angles to repeat.
1673020664280.png


Anyone know more about this?
Hi,
Usually only with copper cold plates you'll get a reaction with LM but it takes a while and there are different types of LM I've only used thermal grizzly stuff and it wasn't very long few months.
 

iZip

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Well, tapping worked, but probably too well as it made the IHS loose from the CPU. As of the last picture, I'm fucked, right?
 

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Hi,
Looks like he delidded the chips to and didn't just get a bar die frame

It's still good just clean up and add more LM to the die and ihs and stick it with some caulking.

Unless the mother board pins got messed up ?

 

iZip

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Hi,
Looks like he delidded the chips to and didn't just get a bar die frame

It's still good just clean up and add more LM to the die and ihs and stick it with some caulking.

Unless the mother board pins got messed up ?
The pins look fine, but what I'm worried about is the hole on the side of the CPUs PCB.

1673024619521.jpeg
 
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No wonder it was stuck, that's why you don't use LM on the IHS.

That damage looks like it was already there judging by the silicone, so it might be okay?
 
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Hi,
Yeah unless you see the messed up piece there it was likely already damaged :/
 
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There doesn't look to be any traces under that peeled area, so it's good, just test the CPU and it'll probably work, just insulate that peeled off part with some nail polish or other, more temperature resistant and non-conductive lacquer.
 

iZip

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The piece wasn't there, and the CPU was running before the disassembly, so it could still work (after a closer look, it really looks like the IHS glue was applied over the hole). At this point, I'm not sure how to go forward with this. Sure, I can buy some silicon glue and put the IHS on, but I would still need some alignment tools to put it back on, right? Wouldn't it be easier at this point to just buy something like an Intel 9th Gen. OC-Frame from der8auer and go forward with that?
 

iZip

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Don't worry too much, just test it, don't let anything metal touch the damaged spot and you'll be fine. Only then think about buying anything new.
Will do. Just one question with the IHS: should I clean the LM of it and loosely put it back together with some MX-4 I have laying around?
 
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Will do. Just one question with the IHS: should I clean the LM of it and loosely put it back together with some MX-4 I have laying around?
Hi,
Cough cough you need a youtube video there's one here to
Yes clean it all off and add more LM thermal grizzly LM preferred
Put you water block on with thermal paste mx-4 will be fine.

 

iZip

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CPU works!! I put on the air cooler I had laying around and booted to Windows without issue (I nail polished the hole and put the MX-4 under the IHS and on top just for the test).
So the question begins: do I have to have some tool to align the CPU and IHS, or can I just sort of freestyle it on? If I do need that, isn't it more worth it to buy a direct die kit instead?
 
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Hi,
Biggest need for the delid kit is the delid tool that is already done
The other stuff is cheaper LM/ caulk/ and Quicksilver
But yes just eyeball it back on.
 
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Sweet!
Just to be sure, nailpolish it a few more coats, for added insulation. You could wash the IHS with some strong solvent like gasoline, or physically remove/scrape old paste off it.
 
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