Guide on how to enable DTS 5.1 Connect/Interactive for Motherboard with onboard Realtek USB Audio

[Kraven]

Ok, i'm writing this up in the hope that someone will find this helpful, as i've spent 2 years trying to get this to work, and it's only with Zoomer88's divine wisdom, that he talked me through all of this. THANK YOU!!!!

WARNING : This is my own experience, your mileage may vary. BACKUP YOUR PC FIRST and ensure you know how to restore from it. I take no responsibility for this.

I would appreciate someone verifying this and that I have got the steps right. They are based on my experience, and I am sure they can be simplified. I would also hope it could be rolled up into an installer such as the AAF pack at some point, as this includes the Realtek USB Driver.

It should also work on a ALC4080 solution, but I can't check that.

Goal : Use an onboard Realtek USB SPDIF to play DTS over SPDIF to speakers.

My setup :

• Asus Zenith II Extreme - ALC1220 / S1220 Realtek USB OnBoard Audio
• Logitech Z906 DTS Speakers with SPDIF input
• Windows 11

Current config :

• OnBoard Audio installed with AAF DCH Optimus Audio driver installed, but not working in 5.1
• Creative Sound Blaster Z with DTS Connect, working in 5.1, which I want to remove.

Steps I took :

1. I had AAF installed, which I removed. You may not need to do this.
   
   Uninstall AAF Audio using steps as detailed with the drivers using the standard instructions :
   Before installing this modified driver, be sure to remove any and all residues from previous Realtek audio drivers or even if there are residues from previous versions of my mods, if they persist. For this you will need the DriverStoreExplorer (by @lostindark). Remove any drivers whose "Provider" is "Realtek", "Dolby", "DTS", "Creative", "A-Volute", "AAF Optimus", etc in the "Sound, Video and Game Controllers", "Extensions", "Software Components" and "Audio Processing Objects" device categories.
   
   
2. Reboot
   
   
3. Install the standard Realtek USB audio drivers, in my case these were "Realtek USB Audio Driver V6.3.9600.2342 For Windows 10/11 64-bit." from the Asus support page for my motherboard.
   You should locate your own.
   
   
4. Locate the "APO Driver [2.10.6]", and install with only the following options. You might get an antivirus warning, you will need to decide on how you want to proceed.
   • "FX Configurator 2.0.5.1"
   • "DTS Connect APO 6.0.0000.6".
5. Reboot
   
   
6. Go to the Sound Control panel in Windows and select "Realtek Digital Output" as your default audio and run a speaker test, you should get audio from L & R speakers only. If the name is different, note down the name, as you'll need it for steps below.
   
   
7. Go to the start menu and open "FX Configurator"
   
   
8. From "FX Configurator", in the Endpoints selection, select "[Active] Realtek Digital Output (Realtek USB Audio) {xxxxxxxx-xxxx-xxxx-xxxx-xxxxxxxxxxxxx}"
   You will see that under Effect Configuration, that Local FX APO and Global FX APO are empty.
   
   
9. Select Product Config Tool from the ACTION list, it's near the bottom.
   
   
10. From the top selection, pick "3rd Effects Only", it should be already selected.
    
    
11. From the Products list, select "DTS Connect (SPDIF)" and press "Apply Product Settings to Selected Endpoints".
    This will populate Local FX APO and Global FX APO.
    
    
12. Make sure "Disable All Enhacments" is not checked under the Effects Configuration.
    
    
13. Close FX Configurator and Reboot
    
    
14. If all goes well, open the Sound Control Panel, go to the Properties for the "Realtek Digital Output", you set all the options to match the screenshot :
    
    View attachment 284052
    
    Specifically, make sure :
    • "Set as default sound device" is set to "Is default for audio"
    • "Format" = "DTS Interactive"
    • "Audio enhancements" = "Device Default Effects".
      This is VERY important, you won't enable the DTS encoder without this set. In my screenshot, it shows "AAF Optimus Effects" underneath it.
      If this is missing, you might need to install and uninstall AAF to get this.
15. Click Test, you should hear audio from L & R speakers only. Windows does not allow you to select 5.1 speakers for SPDIF endpoints, so it only tries to play stereo.
    
    
16. Done

I recommend these tests :

1. Using Chrome or Edge Chromium, search google for "Fraunhofer test with multichannel AAC" and play the video "HE-AAC Channel ID - With H.264 Video". You should hear audio correctly played back from the surround speakers.
   
   
2. VLC Player will correctly play a DTS test file in 5.1, but for some reason it will not play DD files in 5.1. I used the "DTS-HD_MA_SOUND_CHECK_51", which played back correctly.
   
   
3. I played Forza Horizon 4, which correctly played audio in 5.1 when the audio was set to Home Theatre.

For myself, the functionality i am seeing is identical to my Sound Blaster Z with DTS Connect.


Troubleshooting :

• I had some strange issues with 5.1 not working correctly, even though DTS Interactive was set. so what I did was
  1. From the FX Configurator, I selected the "Realtek Digital Output" Endpoint, and pressed "Jump to FxProperties Key"
  2. RegEdit will open to "Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\MMDevices\Audio\Render\{xxxxxxxx-xxxx-xxxx-xxxx-xxxxxxxxxxxx}\FxProperties", where the xxxx numbers match the id of the "Realtek Digital Output".
  3. I deleted the entire key and child objects "Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\MMDevices\Audio\Render\{xxxxxxxx-xxxx-xxxx-xxxx-xxxxxxxxxxxx}"
  4. Reboot
  5. Go back to Step 4 in the original guide above and perform all steps again.
• If the "Audio Enhancements" section is missing from the "Realtek Digital Output" properties section try :
  1. Go to FX Configurator
  2. Press "Rebuild All Audio Endpoints"
  3. Reboot
  4. Go to the "Realtek Digital Output" properties panel and try again.
• If the "Audio Enhancements" section is missing from the "Realtek Digital Output" properties section try :
  1. Install the "AAF DCH Optimus Audio" from the "Realtek DCH Modded Audio Driver for Windows 10/11 - Including Realtek USB Audio Devices" thread.
  2. Reboot
  3. Make sure audio works
  4. Then go back to Step 1 at the very beginning of this guide.
• If you're unsure if 5.1 is working, I disconnected the L & R speaker wires and retest the audio.
  WARNING : DON'T LET THE WIRES TOUCH EACH OTHER, in my case, I just disconnected the Negative/Black wire.

What doesn't work, which also does not work on Sound Blaster Z DTS Connect where applicable:

1. Tidal does not playback 5.1 on Windows, even though it says Atmos, it doesn't work. This is a limitation of the Tidal app.
   Although Tidal does playback Atmos tracks through 5.1 if you have it linked to your Plex account and play it back through the Windows Plex Media Player.
2. Plex via a web browser does not playback in 5.1. The "Plex for Windows" (not Server), which is on the Microsoft Store or downloadable from Plex, works fine in 5.1 DTS & DD
3. VLC Player, Dolby Digital files don't play the surround channels, whereas DTS is fine. I'm sure this is a long standing bug in VLC.
4. I can't see how to enable Dolby Digital Live Encoder, but as it is a much lower bitrate than DTS Encoder, so I can't say I'm worried.
5. The Realtek Audio Control Panel was missing for me, I located a link to the "Realtek Control Panel UWP" for the Microsoft Store and downloaded it.
   The 5.1 options are still missing, which made the control panel completely useless, so I wouldn't bother.
6. The "DECODE" light on my Logitech Z906 speakers will only light when it's playing audio. Btw, this is how I know that my PC is sending DTS Encoded audio.
7. It's not possible to select a 5.1 speaker configuration anywhere, but it is working.
8. Zoomer88 recommends disabling DTS Neo PC, by opening RegEdit and changing "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Analog Devices\DTSAPO. Just set the DTSEnableNeoPC to 0."
9. Updating the Realtek Driver, or a Major Windows Upgrade such as 22H2 to 23H2, will probably remove the settings, and you may need to perform the FX Configurator steps again.

 

[netRAT]

A VST host + good surround upscaler plugin running systemwide (Nugen HaloUpmix is great), would never leave you boxed into stereo, so long as the content being played is diverse enough on the stereo field to actually be upscaled further (ie not dead center mono).
That said, setting it up to run smoothly with unnoticeable latency and no glitches can be tricky and is dependent on a case by case basis... different hardware, chipsets, OS, other software...
Not no mention said tools aren't all freely available.

 

[Kraven]

Additional :

my windows beta updated to build 25309 which disabled the DTS interactive option. I had to rebuild the audio endpoints and then perform the steps in the original guide from step 7.

 

[mycop]

There is no problem with SPDIF ever...
but...
How to add DTS interractive to HDMI?

 

[Natohc]

Hello everyone!
Has anyone tried motherboards ALC 4080?
I have an ASUS Rog Strix X670E-A Gaming mobo, but i can't output 5.1 audio natively SPDIF

 

[DeathThrills]

There is no problem with SPDIF ever...
but...
How to add DTS interractive to HDMI?

Follow @Ferather's Guide On DTS Settings (Thread)

 

[Kraven]

There is no problem with SPDIF ever...
but...
How to add DTS interractive to HDMI?

The guide is for people using a Realtek USB audio solution, this is normally identified with a driver version of v6.3.xxxx.xxxx (for v.6.0.xxxx.xxxx which is HDAudio, AAF has you covered for that).

Older types of Realtek audio don't use USB as a connection bridge, and have HDAudio instead; SPDIF has always had DTS Interactive working on those boards.

As for DTS over HDMI, you're not using Realtek for your audio, you're using your graphic card audio output, which I could never get to work, as my monitor did not have optical output.

 

[Ferather]

HDMI uses HDAudio (aka HDA), any APO working freely on SPDIF will work on HDMI, unless its form factor based coding, in which case the APO then needs to support HDMI form factor.
Form factor: Speakers, Headphones, SPDIF, HDMI (in general). If an APO is restricted to say form factor Speakers, it wont run on form factor HDMI.

Some APO's will also have HDA detection and restriction, meaning it wont natively run on USB.

Usually the registry will need to be modified on the USB endpoint, converting some text to HDA, so the APO reads HDA instead of USB, and works anyway (PCM is PCM).

Example APO's: Dolby, DTS, Sonic Studio, Nahimic, Realtek, other. The older DTS-Dolby encoders are APO's (.dll files).

 

[mycop]

needs to support HDMI form factor.

Can yuo make litle instruction. How to Enable DTS Interactive with HDMi?

 

[Ferather]

Do you have a Realtek device?

 

[mycop]

Do you have a Realtek device?

I have Realtek 892 chip and Nvidia graphic card.

upd.
And, Also - it is possible to make windows, change HDMI audii type to SPDIF?
Some APO or Registry hack?

 

[Ferather]

DTS DCH Driver for Realtek [DTS:X] | TechPowerUp Forums - DTS Settings - Guide (press refresh if needed).

Equaliser APO - Stereo Surround Upmixer | TechPowerUp Forums

No need to convert it to SPDIF.

 

[mycop]

No need to convert it to SPDIF.

But its possible? Not convert. Just "Cheat" OS to think is SPDIF. I think its enough for me.

Guide (press refresh if needed).

but i HAVE no Digital output on motherboard. that is the General problem. Else i just use DTS interractive by SPDIF optical port.

 

[Ferather]

You can change it to SPDIF, but you can get problems as HDMI can be disconnected, and then if re-connected Windows sees a form factor issue, it then delete's and rebuilds then endpoint.
It can be done on machine start-up with some codes, but if you connected-disconnect at the time its running, which is a few seconds, the same as above.

Wont fix the issue though.

 

[pipes]

there is no solution for realtek alc4080

 

[sorin69]

hi there is it going to work for gigabyte's x570s aorus master on board realtek?i cant see the atchment!

 

[Kraven]

hi there is it going to work for gigabyte's x570s aorus master on board realtek?i cant see the atchment!

No, you have a non-usb Realtek. You can use the patched AAF drivers (I think)

Easiest way to check, is if your current driver is v6.0.xxxx that's HDAudio, v6.3.xxxx is Realtek USB.

 

[sorin69]

No, you have a non-usb Realtek. You can use the patched AAF drivers (I think)

Easiest way to check, is if your current driver is v6.0.xxxx that's HDAudio, v6.3.xxxx is Realtek USB.

It's 6.0.9373.1

 

[mycop]

DTS DCH Driver for Realtek [DTS:X] | TechPowerUp Forums - DTS Settings - Guide (press refresh if needed).

Equaliser APO - Stereo Surround Upmixer | TechPowerUp Forums

Dts Interactive work at hdmi. But its ONLY stereo.
How to switch it to Multichanel ?

No need to convert it to SPDIF.

looks like it's needed.

You can change it to SPDIF, but you can get problems as HDMI can be disconnected,

I will consider this feature. How to implement it?

 

[qzack]

I have been reading this forum and following several suggested posts regarding audio. I decided to register an account and post my experience with the walk-thru
on post one of this thread.

The solution to add DTS Interactive does work but I wanted to find out if there is any solution to the audio clicks & pops that are experienced after adding DTS to the driver.
I'm getting audio clicks and pops if I play a song using the Groove music app and just move my mouse over the screen where the app is open, this will produce the pops I'm describing.
I'm using a MSI ALC 4080 chipset motherboard with spdif and if I use the basic MSI driver without modifying it for DTS the clicks and pops are not heard. It is only after using FX Configurator then selecting
DTS Connect that the additional static pops/clicks are heard. Is there any solution to this that I have not already read about?

The solutions I have tried are
1. Bios settings that have to do with power and chipset
2. Changing settings in the Registry that have to do with power and making sure the audio doesn't go inactive after a period of time
3. Disabling allow the computer to turn off USB ports and go into sleep mode

I have tried the official MSI driver from their website for my motherboard and a driver from Microsoft.
Both after DTS modification activate clicks and pops. I will say that the Microsoft driver handles them differently than MSI driver.
Both are up-to-date as of release so nothing newer after posting this.

The clicks and pops do not happen while I game or I would've already returned this motherboard and tried to find another model.
You would think it would after the issues I detailed above but the audio experience while gaming has been flawless.
I played Resident Evil Village and Need for Speed Heat for several hours last night and had no audio issues and the channels mixed properly.

My speaker setup is the Logitech Z906 Speaker system.
The "Decode" light is on

DTS Connect in FX configurator, does it have an update?
Is there another way to route audio spdif and get DTS working?
In FX configuration DTS Connect mentions Windows Vista which is quite old, perhaps a newer version is available?
Trying to find a reason for the clicks & pops

 

[Kraven]

The "Decode" light is on

Do the clicks and pops coincide with the Decode light going on/off ? Or does the decode light stay permanently active (meaning it comes on once and then stays off - which is normal when using a Soundblaster Z) ?

 

[qzack]

Yes, the clicks and pops coincide with the decode light to my knowledge
The encode light comes on and stays on as long as there is sound present.
If there is no sound, the light is not on.

 

[Kraven]

Sounds like the decoder is kicking in and producing pops when there isn't constant noise. For some reason when there is no audio being played, DTS Connect drops the output and instead of sending Zero audio noise, it stops sending any decoded signal whatsoever.

Just to exclude the possibility that it's being caused by the audio player, I assume you don't have the issue when using any other audio player ? (VLC / Youtube / Spotify / etc...)

Anyway, sounds like a small app to product a 'comfort noise' would keep the decoder active and prevent the pops. I can't see one on google, but I am sure there is one.

When using DTS Connect with the Soundblaster Z, it sends a constant DTS stream even if nothing is playing, after which the light goes off after 5 seconds and stays off when audio is playing, which is different with the DTS Connect APO (which is being used here).

 

[qzack]

Just to exclude the possibility that it's being caused by the audio player, I assume you don't have the issue when using any other audio player ? (VLC / Youtube / Spotify / etc...)

If I use VLC or Watch a Youtube video the pops are their but they are not as annoying as with the Groove Music App

When using DTS Connect with the Soundblaster Z, it sends a constant DTS stream even if nothing is playing, after which the light goes off after 5 seconds and stays off when audio is playing, which is different with the DTS Connect APO (which is being used here).

I did read on another forum (not this one I don't think) that using the "Stereo Mix" setting on the playback settings for the sound card can send a consistent stream if enabled and setting the volume to zero.
I have not tried this yet to see if it corrects my issue. I can try this out and post back unless you can think of another suggestion. I might be able to find this thread in my Chrome history but I'm not at home to check at the moment.

Changing the setup slightly, I wonder if changing the cables that go to my speaker setup would throw all this work-around stuff out the window and still give me DTS sound?
Or is DTS sound part of the driver itself and can only be unlocked using the methods you posted? Regardless of what cables are used for output?
How can MSI sell a motherboard and advertise 7.1 surround sound when all the driver does out of the box is 2 channel stereo?
Or am I only getting 2 channel sound through SPDIF and changing over to 3.5mm audio cables would give me 5.1?
Going this route might also get rid of the audio pops since I am not using a SPDIF cable or needing DTS Connect.
Thing is SPDIF sounds better and I have heard a world of difference just switching to it.

 

[netRAT]

I did read on another forum (not this one I don't think) that using the "Stereo Mix" setting on the playback settings for the sound card can send a consistent stream if enabled and setting the volume to zero.

You could try SoundKeeper as a possible solution if indeed the decoder suffers from allergic reactions to silence...
Or...
Maybe try tackling this from a different angle by having something like REAL running in the background if latency is actually the culprit.