First time builder, starting with AMD Ryzen 7 3700X, decided on HYTE Y60, now choosing motherboard.

[WowRly]

Earlier I had tried BIOS flash a bunch of times but was getting a solid green light even after I read a ton of forums and tried a long list of different methods.

Anyway, maybe I made some progress (???). I took my Radeon RX 550 put it into the case with the riser cables still connected and got something on the screen:

I'm guessing this does not necessarily rule out the riser cables because the riser cables may just not recognize the Radeon RX 6800 XT. I'm assuming it does mean that my MB is fine. The likely issue is the Radeon RX 6800 XT. I don't intend to use the Radeon RX 550 on this built. Any advice on how I should proceed?

Edit. I wonder if MicroCenter would be willing to test out this GPU.

 

[Lost_Troll]

Try setting the PCIE mode to 3.0 instead of 4.0 in the BIOS and see if the RX6800XT works. If it does not work, I would suspect that it might have a mining BIOS/Fash installed or it just might be bad card.

Is the RX6800XT a used video card?

 

[A Computer Guy]

Earlier I had tried BIOS flash a bunch of times but was getting a solid green light even after I read a ton of forums and tried a long list of different methods.

Anyway, maybe I made some progress (???). I took my Radeon RX 550 put it into the case with the riser cables still connected and got something on the screen:

View attachment 299320

I'm guessing this does not necessarily rule out the riser cables because the riser cables may just not recognize the Radeon RX 6800 XT. I'm assuming it does mean that my MB is fine. The likely issue is the Radeon RX 6800 XT. I don't intend to use the Radeon RX 550 on this built. Any advice on how I should proceed?

Edit. I wonder if MicroCenter would be willing to test out this GPU.

You got this board used correct? It might be a good idea to reset the UEFI/BIOS to defaults, save, reboot, then start making adjustments to UEFI/BIOS settings as needed.

 

[WowRly]

Both the GPU and MB were bought used.

Edit. I can only enter BIOS for maybe 10-25 seconds before the fans (including on the RX 550 GPU fan) stop spinning and the screen goes black again. Not sure if that's how it's supposed to be or if it's an indicator of anything.

 

[eidairaman1]

Both the GPU and MB were bought used.

Edit. I can only enter BIOS for maybe 10-25 seconds before the fans (including on the RX 550 GPU fan) stop spinning and the screen goes black again. Not sure if that's how it's supposed to be or if it's an indicator of anything.

Take the system apart and run it on a non conductive bench out of the case completely, use the reset switch as the power button. You went wrong buying a used motherboard, which adds to more trouble.

 

[Lost_Troll]

Besides what is posted above, I would pull the coin battery out and unplug the ac cord from the power supply and then hit the power buttin a few times to clear the power from the motherboard before you pull the system apart. This will reset the motherboards CMOS/BIOS back to factory defaults like it would be if it was brand new.

 

[eidairaman1]

Besides what is posted above, I would pull the coin battery out and unplug the ac cord from the power supply and then hit the power buttin a few times to clear the power from the motherboard before you pull the system apart. This will reset the motherboards CMOS/BIOS back to factory defaults like it would be if it was brand new.

The mobo manual will tell you how to clear the cmos as removing the battery is not always the solution.

 

[WowRly]

I'm trying to check a couple of things before taking the MB out. I played around with BIOS (w/ the RX 550 attached). After going into BIOS, I noticed that CPU temperature is showing to be about 80C immediately after getting into BIOS and then keeps going up quite quickly. When it gets to about 95C or 97C, the computer shuts down and the monitor goes black. So that means that it could be an issue with the CPU Cooler (some of the thermal paste that came with the CPU Cooler had come off before I attached it the CPU because I had accidentally touched it). I'll try to reinstall the CPU Cooler, with new thermal paste, to see if anything changes. There's nothing that says that the CPU Cooler can't be faulty. (Although I don't believe a faulty CPU Cooler would cause the Radeon RX 6800 XT to not start up).

Also, I noticed that in BIOS that the BIOS version that is listed is 4602 x64. So there would be no point in doing a BIOS flash when I already have the latest version.

 

[A Computer Guy]

I'm trying to check a couple of things before taking the MB out. I played around with BIOS (w/ the RX 550 attached). After going into BIOS, I noticed that CPU temperature is showing to be about 80C immediately after getting into BIOS and then keeps going up quite quickly. When it gets to about 95C or 97C, the computer shuts down and the monitor goes black. So that means that it could be an issue with the CPU Cooler (some of the thermal paste that came with the CPU Cooler had come off before I attached it the CPU because I had accidentally touched it). I'll try to reinstall the CPU Cooler, with new thermal paste, to see if anything changes. There's nothing that says that the CPU Cooler can't be faulty. (Although I don't believe a faulty CPU Cooler would cause the Radeon RX 6800 XT to not start up).

Also, I noticed that in BIOS that the BIOS version that is listed is 4602 x64. So there would be no point in doing a BIOS flash when I already have the latest version.

When you turn on the PC can you hear the CPU pump startup on the AIO? I don't see the cable for the PWM signal from the AIO in your screenshots. Not sure if Corsair is phasing that out but if there is one disconnect it from the motherboard. By default the pump should run at full speed when disconnected from the PWM header (with the power connected to the pump) although I don't know if that's true for all products. Is there is a possibility PWM headers might be disabled in fan setup of the UEFI/BIOS?

 

[WowRly]

I did notice that that the thermal paste was on the CPU Cooler was all on the CPU Cooler itself and not on the CPU chip (perhaps it dried before I attached it the CPU chip).

I had no idea the CPU pump was supposed to make a noise. Unless it's ultra quiet, I did not hear any noise after turning on the computer. The light on the part that attached to the CPU chip came on and the fans came on, but there was no noise. I'm not sure too much about PWM headers in the BIOS because I can only stay in BIOS for maybe 10 seconds.

 

[A Computer Guy]

I did notice that that the thermal paste was on the CPU Cooler was all on the CPU Cooler itself and not on the CPU chip (perhaps it dried before I attached it the CPU chip).

Well that sounds like it didn't make contact with the CPU with any meaningful mounting pressure. When installing the cooler you need to tighten the screws or thumb screws evenly for good contact with the CPU. Did you do that? Also there tends to be a plastic shroud protecting the pre-applied thermal paste on the cooler. You did remove that before mounting the cooler correct? If the tubes are not long enough when the rad is mounted it might provide restriction to one trying to evenly tighten down the cooler to the CPU so be mindful of that. If the tubes are being restrictive you may have change how you mount the cooler and/or rad to get around that problem.

I had no idea the CPU pump was supposed to make a noise. Unless it's ultra quiet, I did not hear any noise after turning on the computer. The light on the part that attached to the CPU chip came on and the fans came on, but there was no noise. I'm not sure too much about PWM headers in the BIOS because I can only stay in BIOS for maybe 10 seconds.

The noise profile is likely to be different from product to product. I have an older H100i Pro RGB that always makes a "clicking" noise when starting up and shutting down. I was hoping there is some way you can hear if your pump is working to confirm cause it sounds like it's not. Do you have any AM4 compatible air cooler available perhaps the one from the HP? I'd slap that on (figuratively speaking) and see if you can get into UEFI/BIOS then to reset it with defaults and save and reboot successfully. Then with the power connected (but not the PWM cable) put the pump close to your ear to try and hear if it's working. I think you are going to have to do as others suggested and take the system apart and bench it for troubleshooting.

 

[WowRly]

Made a little more progress.

I applied thermal paste and powered on the system again and went into BIOS. Now the temperature gets up to 79C and stays there and I am able to stay in BIOS without the computer shutting down.

I did make sure to remove the plastic (that part was obvious).

Edit. I restored the defaults in BIOS (F5 --> OK --> F10 (Save) --> OK). System restarted and the BIOS came up again. Now, I'll try the 6800 XT GPU.

 

[dont whant to set it"']

Dude , you did not mount and connected the cooler properly or the cooler is faulty!

 

[A Computer Guy]

Made a little more progress.

I applied thermal paste and powered on the system again and went into BIOS. Now the temperature gets up to 79C and stays there and I am able to stay in BIOS without the computer shutting down.

I did make sure to remove the plastic (that part was obvious).

View attachment 299335

Edit. I restored the defaults in BIOS (F5 --> OK --> F10 (Save) --> OK). System restarted and the BIOS came up again. Now, I'll try the 6800 XT GPU.

The CPU still seems too hot to me. Another thing that is bothering me is I don't see the SATA power connector in your photos coming off your CPU cooler per the manual another user had posted.

Is this a cable you forgot to connect to your pump?

 

[WowRly]

The SATA cable (from CPU Cooler) is connected to a cable that connects to the PSU (that cable seems to have 4 different spots that the CPU Cooler SATA cable can connect to; I don't think it matters which one I connect to; other similar PSU cables give 3 options/spots; I'll switch to one of those to see if there's any difference). The other CPU Cooler cable connects to the AIO_PUMP (on the top of the MB). (Then there's 2 cables that come from the CPU Cooler that connect to the cables that came with Y60 case. I'm guessing I got these cables connected correctly.

Whenever I watched the YT videos of CPU Cooler installation, they don't seem to use the parts I have pictured below (I have extras because some came with the MB and the others came with the retention mounting bracket I ordered). But when I tried attaching the CPU Cooler without those, it did not see to work. My guess is that any issue may have something to do with the use of those. But ultimately any issue with the CPU Cooler is going to be easier to deal with than issues with the GPU (or MB).

 

[eidairaman1]

Always read cpu heatsink mounting directions from the cooler maker.

 

[A Computer Guy]

The SATA cable (from CPU Cooler) is connected to a cable that connects to the PSU (that cable seems to have 4 different spots that the CPU Cooler SATA cable can connect to; I don't think it matters which one I connect to; other similar PSU cables give 3 options/spots; I'll switch to one of those to see if there's any difference). The other CPU Cooler cable connects to the AIO_PUMP (on the top of the MB). (Then there's 2 cables that come from the CPU Cooler that connect to the cables that came with Y60 case. I'm guessing I got these cables connected correctly.

Ok it sounds like you have that part ok. I see now what they have done and that's pretty nice solution to try and mange the cable mess.

Whenever I watched the YT videos of CPU Cooler installation, they don't seem to use the parts I have pictured below (I have extras because some came with the MB and the others came with the retention mounting bracket I ordered). But when I tried attaching the CPU Cooler without those, it did not see to work. My guess is that any issue may have something to do with the use of those. But ultimately any issue with the CPU Cooler is going to be easier to deal with than issues with the GPU (or MB).

View attachment 299341

According to the manual you are supposed to remove those mounting brackets and install standoffs. Looking back at the photos you posted I can see now they were not removed so yea it makes sense now why you didn't have CPU contact before and probably still don't have proper contact now. Make sure to review any instructions that comes with your equipment or even get the manuals online if you have to.

 

[QuietBob]

I applied thermal paste and powered on the system again and went into BIOS. Now the temperature gets up to 79C and stays there

Your CPU temperature should be below 45 C in the BIOS -- my 5800X3D shows 40 in a 27 C room. Your AIO isn't installed properly. As has been suggested, check the mounting and connections.

 

[eidairaman1]

Your CPU temperature should be below 45 C in the BIOS -- my 5800X3D shows 40 in a 27 C room. Your AIO isn't installed properly. As has been suggested, check the mounting and connections.

Unless if the sensor on the mobo is bad...

 

[WowRly]

The issue with installing the CPU Cooler without the two parts I have a picture of above is that when I screw in the 4 standoffs to hold the retention mounting bracket (that sits on the back), it does not hold that retention mounting bracket securely in place. In other words, the retention mounting bracket is loose. It's still screwed so that it does not fall off but it has quite a lot of wiggle. I know there are standoffs that are for intel and separate ones for AMD. I'm obviously using the AMD ones. Edit. And CPU Cooler can't be connected to those standoffs because they are just too short to screw the thumb screws in.

 

[A Computer Guy]

The issue with installing the CPU Cooler without the two parts I have a picture of above is that when I screw in the 4 standoffs to hold the retention mounting bracket (that sits on the back), it does not hold that retention mounting bracket securely in place. In other words, the retention mounting bracket is loose. It's still screwed so that it does not fall off but it has quite a lot of wiggle. I know there are standoffs that are for intel and separate ones for AMD. I'm obviously using the AMD ones. Edit. And CPU Cooler can't be connected to those standoffs because they are just too short to screw the thumb screws in.

(simplified edit) Can you provide a few pictures of your backplate with one of the standoffs screwed into it from a few different angles for us?

 

[WowRly]

It's difficult to capture an angle that shows that that backplate is so loose that it can easily be moved so that it does not touch the MB. Maybe this angle.

 

[A Computer Guy]

If you push your backplate into your motherboard PCB without the standoffs does it look like this?

 

[WowRly]

I can't tell for sure. On the below picture it looks like it. The black part in my picture is the part of the plate itself (in other words, it's all one piece).

 

[A Computer Guy]

I can't tell for sure. On the below picture it looks like it. The black part in my picture is the part of the plate itself (in other words, it's all one piece).

View attachment 299379

Ok well you probably want to uninstall your board from the case and place your motherboard on a flat surface with the mounts poking through as in your picture., then reinstall the standoffs and dry fit (no paste) your cpu cooler and see then if your mounting bracket reaches your standoffs. I think the answer will be yes. If yes then repaste the cpu (take a picture for us so we can banter about pasting style) and remount the cpu cooler while your motherboard is on the table holding the backplate in place for you. Assuming that is successful you can reinstall the motherboard into the case with the cooler.