• Welcome to TechPowerUp Forums, Guest! Please check out our forum guidelines for info related to our community.

A mined 2080TI for 2 months,or an old card 1080ti used for constant gaming?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
May 17, 2021
Messages
3,443 (2.52/day)
Processor Ryzen 5 5700x
Motherboard B550 Elite
Cooling Thermalright Perless Assassin 120 SE
Memory 32GB Fury Beast DDR4 3200Mhz
Video Card(s) Gigabyte 3060 ti gaming oc pro
Storage Samsung 970 Evo 1TB, WD SN850x 1TB, plus some random HDDs
Display(s) LG 27gp850 1440p 165Hz 27''
Case Lian Li Lancool II performance
Power Supply MSI 750w
Mouse G502
the problem is i can't find thickness of 0.75mm nowhere where i live ...I need 7 pads of 0.75mm.....Majority of thermal pads i nedeed is 0.75mm .OMG.:(
If i put 1mm thickness instead of 0.75 and i press more, is ok or not?Or i must search 0.70 mm?...

that i can't say. Sorry. Maybe someone can help.

they all squish so maybe it's ok, just not sure because it's still 25% more.
 
Joined
Sep 27, 2022
Messages
141 (0.16/day)
Processor i7 7820x
Motherboard Asus Strix x299 XE-Gaming
Cooling Corsair AIO water H115i
Memory 32GB DDR4 Corsair 2400Mhz Quad channel (4x8GB)
Video Card(s) MSi RTX 2080 Ti
Storage SSD 860Evo+ HDD 3TB WD
Display(s) Samsung 48ju6400 +Full HD videoprojector
Case Kandalf VA 9000BWS Full tower modded
Audio Device(s) Azalia
Power Supply 750w Intertech Argus Gold 80+
Mouse cheap one wireless
Keyboard wireless
Software windows 10 pro x64
3.2w/mK or 4 w/mK thermal transfer is enough ?Because thermal pads have 3.2, 4,6 even 12,8 w/mk ,but the prices are different......
 
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Messages
1,823 (1.55/day)
Location
Mississauga, Canada
Processor Ryzen 7 5700X
Motherboard ASUS TUF Gaming X570-PRO (WiFi 6)
Cooling Noctua NH-C14S (two fans)
Memory 2x16GB DDR4 3200
Video Card(s) Reference Vega 64
Storage Intel 665p 1TB, WD Black SN850X 2TB, Crucial MX300 1TB SATA, Samsung 830 256 GB SATA
Display(s) Nixeus NX-EDG27, and Samsung S23A700
Case Fractal Design R5
Power Supply Seasonic PRIME TITANIUM 850W
Mouse Logitech
VR HMD Oculus Rift
Software Windows 11 Pro, and Ubuntu 20.04
3.2w/mK or 4 w/mK thermal transfer is enough ?Because thermal pads have 3.2, 4,6 even 12,8 w/mk ,but the prices are different......
Arctic's thermal pads are usually around 6W/mK. Don't go lower than that.
 
Joined
Dec 31, 2020
Messages
1,139 (0.76/day)
Processor E5-4627 v4
Motherboard VEINEDA X99
Memory 32 GB
Video Card(s) 2080 Ti
Storage NE-512
Display(s) G27Q
Case DAOTECH X9
Power Supply SF450
Better use thicker and press them though. 0.75 can be a bit dry to 0.7 and end up not making proper contact.

The upper memory chip is a little darkened.

Good luck

I gave up on mine at 2 thicknesses i bought 0.5mm of 12.8 at $6, and has been sitting on my table ever since.
 
Joined
Dec 25, 2020
Messages
7,515 (4.98/day)
Location
São Paulo, Brazil
System Name "Icy Resurrection"
Processor 13th Gen Intel Core i9-13900KS
Motherboard ASUS ROG Maximus Z790 Apex Encore
Cooling Noctua NH-D15S upgraded with 2x NF-F12 iPPC-3000 fans and Honeywell PTM7950 TIM
Memory 32 GB G.SKILL Trident Z5 RGB F5-6800J3445G16GX2-TZ5RK @ 7600 MT/s 36-44-44-52-96 1.4V
Video Card(s) NVIDIA RTX A2000
Storage 500 GB WD Black SN750 SE NVMe SSD + 4 TB WD Red Plus WD40EFPX HDD
Display(s) 55-inch LG G3 OLED
Case Pichau Mancer CV500 White Edition
Power Supply EVGA 1300 G2 1.3kW 80+ Gold
Mouse Microsoft Classic IntelliMouse (2017)
Keyboard IBM Model M type 1391405
Software Windows 10 Pro 22H2
Benchmark Scores I pulled a Qiqi~
the problem is i can't find thickness of 0.75mm nowhere where i live ...I need 7 pads of 0.75mm.....Majority of thermal pads i nedeed is 0.75mm .OMG.:(
If i put 1mm thickness instead of 0.75 and i press more, is ok or not?Or i must search 0.70 mm?...

No! You will damage your hardware if you do this. Do not overtighten anything to make up for using incorrect pad sizes, I repeat, you will damage the hardware!

3.2w/mK or 4 w/mK thermal transfer is enough ?Because thermal pads have 3.2, 4,6 even 12,8 w/mk ,but the prices are different......

Read our bloody posts, I specifically wrote that you need better pads for a GPU of this wattage level, preferably 8W/mK or higher
 
Joined
Sep 27, 2022
Messages
141 (0.16/day)
Processor i7 7820x
Motherboard Asus Strix x299 XE-Gaming
Cooling Corsair AIO water H115i
Memory 32GB DDR4 Corsair 2400Mhz Quad channel (4x8GB)
Video Card(s) MSi RTX 2080 Ti
Storage SSD 860Evo+ HDD 3TB WD
Display(s) Samsung 48ju6400 +Full HD videoprojector
Case Kandalf VA 9000BWS Full tower modded
Audio Device(s) Azalia
Power Supply 750w Intertech Argus Gold 80+
Mouse cheap one wireless
Keyboard wireless
Software windows 10 pro x64
No! You will damage your hardware if you do this. Do not overtighten anything to make up for using incorrect pad sizes, I repeat, you will damage the hardware!
ok then i use 0.70mm instead 0.75...I hope 0.05 mm is not an issue. I can't find 0.75 nowhere....
the thickness of a hair is 0.05mm.............:fear:
 
Joined
May 17, 2021
Messages
3,443 (2.52/day)
Processor Ryzen 5 5700x
Motherboard B550 Elite
Cooling Thermalright Perless Assassin 120 SE
Memory 32GB Fury Beast DDR4 3200Mhz
Video Card(s) Gigabyte 3060 ti gaming oc pro
Storage Samsung 970 Evo 1TB, WD SN850x 1TB, plus some random HDDs
Display(s) LG 27gp850 1440p 165Hz 27''
Case Lian Li Lancool II performance
Power Supply MSI 750w
Mouse G502
ok then i use 0.70mm instead 0.75...I hope 0.05 mm is not an issue. I can't find 0.75 nowhere....
the thickness of a hair is 0.05mm.............:fear:

i think he didn't say don't use 1mm instead if you really can't find .75, he's saying don't over tighten it to compensate, it will compress anyway

and i'm not saying 1mm is fine, i honestly don't know
 
Joined
Sep 27, 2022
Messages
141 (0.16/day)
Processor i7 7820x
Motherboard Asus Strix x299 XE-Gaming
Cooling Corsair AIO water H115i
Memory 32GB DDR4 Corsair 2400Mhz Quad channel (4x8GB)
Video Card(s) MSi RTX 2080 Ti
Storage SSD 860Evo+ HDD 3TB WD
Display(s) Samsung 48ju6400 +Full HD videoprojector
Case Kandalf VA 9000BWS Full tower modded
Audio Device(s) Azalia
Power Supply 750w Intertech Argus Gold 80+
Mouse cheap one wireless
Keyboard wireless
Software windows 10 pro x64
i think he didn't say don't use 1mm instead if you really can't find .75, he's saying don't over tighten it to compensate, it will compress anyway

and i'm not saying 1mm is fine, i honestly don't know
but between 0.70 and 1 mm...i think 0.70 is more close to 0.75mm.For the moment i gave the order for: 0.70mm , 1mm, 1.5mm and 2 mm.Friday i will have these pads.I will mount pads friday or saturday.For the moment i can't find : 1.25, 1.75 and 0.75 mm.....
If i wrong with the sizes and i fry the gpu card C'EST LA VIE....i will throw the gpu in the trash and my 300$ will be lost..Probably many people from this thread want this to suffer this!
For the moment my 2080ti gpu card still work properly without error.If he dies soon or later, i can't do anything....I don't know if it was used for mining,i don't know the past of the card,i don t know anything ...............
All can i do is to complete the missing PADS.....I can't do anything else,

just to pray to God
!!!!!!!!
 
Joined
Dec 25, 2020
Messages
7,515 (4.98/day)
Location
São Paulo, Brazil
System Name "Icy Resurrection"
Processor 13th Gen Intel Core i9-13900KS
Motherboard ASUS ROG Maximus Z790 Apex Encore
Cooling Noctua NH-D15S upgraded with 2x NF-F12 iPPC-3000 fans and Honeywell PTM7950 TIM
Memory 32 GB G.SKILL Trident Z5 RGB F5-6800J3445G16GX2-TZ5RK @ 7600 MT/s 36-44-44-52-96 1.4V
Video Card(s) NVIDIA RTX A2000
Storage 500 GB WD Black SN750 SE NVMe SSD + 4 TB WD Red Plus WD40EFPX HDD
Display(s) 55-inch LG G3 OLED
Case Pichau Mancer CV500 White Edition
Power Supply EVGA 1300 G2 1.3kW 80+ Gold
Mouse Microsoft Classic IntelliMouse (2017)
Keyboard IBM Model M type 1391405
Software Windows 10 Pro 22H2
Benchmark Scores I pulled a Qiqi~
i think he didn't say don't use 1mm instead if you really can't find .75, he's saying don't over tighten it to compensate, it will compress anyway

and i'm not saying 1mm is fine, i honestly don't know

With a 0.70mm (thin) pad you won't have contact, with a 1mm pad you'll find that it'll be too thick and cause the PCB to bend, you need the 0.75mm pad as stated in the documentation
 
Joined
Sep 27, 2022
Messages
141 (0.16/day)
Processor i7 7820x
Motherboard Asus Strix x299 XE-Gaming
Cooling Corsair AIO water H115i
Memory 32GB DDR4 Corsair 2400Mhz Quad channel (4x8GB)
Video Card(s) MSi RTX 2080 Ti
Storage SSD 860Evo+ HDD 3TB WD
Display(s) Samsung 48ju6400 +Full HD videoprojector
Case Kandalf VA 9000BWS Full tower modded
Audio Device(s) Azalia
Power Supply 750w Intertech Argus Gold 80+
Mouse cheap one wireless
Keyboard wireless
Software windows 10 pro x64
then i put 1 mm thermal pads and then i will cut a thin layer, a fine pelicula of 0.25mm of pads with a cutter..........:sleep:
 

dgianstefani

TPU Proofreader
Staff member
Joined
Dec 29, 2017
Messages
5,260 (2.02/day)
Location
Swansea, Wales
System Name Silent/X1 Yoga/S25U-1TB
Processor Ryzen 9800X3D @ 5.575ghz all core 1.24 V, Thermal Grizzly AM5 High Performance Heatspreader/1185 G7
Motherboard ASUS ROG Strix X670E-I, chipset fans replaced with Noctua A14x25 G2
Cooling Optimus Block, HWLabs Copper 240/40 + 240/30, D5/Res, 4x Noctua A12x25, 1x A14G2, Mayhems Ultra Pure
Memory 64 GB Dominator Titanium White 6000 MT, 130 ns tRFC, active cooled
Video Card(s) RTX 3080 Ti Founders Edition, Conductonaut Extreme, 18 W/mK MinusPad Extreme, Corsair XG7 Waterblock
Storage Intel Optane DC P1600X 118 GB, Samsung 990 Pro 2 TB
Display(s) 32" 240 Hz 1440p Samsung G7, 31.5" 165 Hz 1440p LG NanoIPS Ultragear, MX900 dual gas VESA mount
Case Sliger SM570 CNC Aluminium 13-Litre, 3D printed feet, custom front, LINKUP Ultra PCIe 4.0 x16 White
Audio Device(s) Audeze Maxwell Ultraviolet w/upgrade pads & LCD headband, Galaxy Buds 3 Pro, Razer Nommo Pro
Power Supply SF1000 Plat, full transparent custom cables, Sentinel Pro 1500 Online Double Conversion UPS w/Noctua
Mouse Razer Viper V3 Pro 8 KHz Mercury White & Pulsar Supergrip tape, Razer Atlas, Razer Strider Chroma
Keyboard Wooting 60HE+ module, TOFU-R CNC Alu/Brass, SS Prismcaps W+Jellykey, LekkerV2 mod, TLabs Leath/Suede
Software Windows 11 IoT Enterprise LTSC 24H2
Benchmark Scores Legendary
With a 0.70mm (thin) pad you won't have contact, with a 1mm pad you'll find that it'll be too thick and cause the PCB to bend, you need the 0.75mm pad as stated in the documentation
This isn't strictly true.
 
Joined
Jan 5, 2006
Messages
18,584 (2.66/day)
System Name AlderLake
Processor Intel i7 12700K P-Cores @ 5Ghz
Motherboard Gigabyte Z690 Aorus Master
Cooling Noctua NH-U12A 2 fans + Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Extreme + 5 case fans
Memory 32GB DDR5 Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB 6000MT/s CL36
Video Card(s) MSI RTX 2070 Super Gaming X Trio
Storage Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Evo 500GB + 850 Pro 512GB + 860 Evo 1TB x2
Display(s) 23.8" Dell S2417DG 165Hz G-Sync 1440p
Case Be quiet! Silent Base 600 - Window
Audio Device(s) Panasonic SA-PMX94 / Realtek onboard + B&O speaker system / Harman Kardon Go + Play / Logitech G533
Power Supply Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 750W
Mouse Logitech MX Anywhere 2 Laser wireless
Keyboard RAPOO E9270P Black 5GHz wireless
Software Windows 11
Benchmark Scores Cinebench R23 (Single Core) 1936 @ stock Cinebench R23 (Multi Core) 23006 @ stock
With a 0.70mm (thin) pad you won't have contact, with a 1mm pad you'll find that it'll be too thick and cause the PCB to bend, you need the 0.75mm pad as stated in the documentation

A 0.70mm pad will do good enough, there are always small tolerances for everything.
0.05mm difference for this thermal pad is nothing, it will be fine.
 
Joined
May 17, 2021
Messages
3,443 (2.52/day)
Processor Ryzen 5 5700x
Motherboard B550 Elite
Cooling Thermalright Perless Assassin 120 SE
Memory 32GB Fury Beast DDR4 3200Mhz
Video Card(s) Gigabyte 3060 ti gaming oc pro
Storage Samsung 970 Evo 1TB, WD SN850x 1TB, plus some random HDDs
Display(s) LG 27gp850 1440p 165Hz 27''
Case Lian Li Lancool II performance
Power Supply MSI 750w
Mouse G502
but between 0.70 and 1 mm...i think 0.70 is more close to 0.75mm.For the moment i gave the order for: 0.70mm , 1mm, 1.5mm and 2 mm.Friday i will have these pads.I will mount pads friday or saturday.For the moment i can't find : 1.25, 1.75 and 0.75 mm.....
If i wrong with the sizes and i fry the gpu card C'EST LA VIE....i will throw the gpu in the trash and my 300$ will be lost..Probably many people from this thread want this to suffer this!
For the moment my 2080ti gpu card still work properly without error.If he dies soon or later, i can't do anything....I don't know if it was used for mining,i don't know the past of the card,i don t know anything ...............
All can i do is to complete the missing PADS.....I can't do anything else,

just to pray to God
!!!!!!!!

i helped all i could, i honestly don't know and don't want to mislead about the sizes to use other then the manual and what i see there. I said 1mm as a example. See what others can do for you. I'm sorry this happened. All the best and i hope you solve this.
 
Joined
Jul 5, 2013
Messages
29,100 (6.86/day)
i heard Mx-2 paste is good,but if i choose Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut is better?I heard good things about this Thermal Grizzly company
Between Arctic Mx-6 and Thermal Grizzly Kryonuat....which paste is better for my RTX 2080TI ?
MX-6 is the best value on the market and performs with the best TIM out. However, if you want the best non-liquid Metal TIM, KPX, hands down.
 
Joined
Jan 23, 2011
Messages
639 (0.12/day)
Location
St. Louis, MO
System Name Desktop
Processor AMD Ryzen 7800X3D
Motherboard MSI X670E MEG ACE
Cooling Corsair XC7 Block / Corsair XG7 Block EK 360PE Radiator EK 120XE Radiator 8x EK Vadar Furious Fans
Memory 64GB TeamGroup T-Create Expert DDR5-6000
Video Card(s) MSI RTX 4090 Gaming X Trio
Storage 1TB WD Black SN850 / 4TB Inland Premium / 8TB WD Black HDD
Display(s) Alienware AW3821DW / ASUS TUF VG279QM
Case Lian-Li Dynamic 011 XL ROG
Audio Device(s) Razer Nommo Pro Speakers / Audio-Technica ATH-R70X
Power Supply EVGA P2 1200W Platinum
Mouse Razer Viper, Logitech G600
Keyboard Razer Huntsman Elite
In my experience with repadding cards and putting waterblocks on them, you can use 1mm pads. They will compress a bit and fill in as needed. Make sure you get some quality pads. Arctic, Phobya, Fujipoly, Bitspower, and Alphacool are good reliable pads. Just depends on what is available in your area.

It is always better to get a slightly larger pad and compress it down than to have an undersized pad that doesn't make proper contact.

I personally have used Bitspower, Phobya, Fujipoly, and Arctic.
 
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,906 (0.57/day)
So basically you against buying used GPUs in general because you can't tell if it was mined or not.
Personally I don't mind buying used hardware except for hdd and ram because there is very little reason to sell those components by themselves unless something ain't right.

You know, after 12 pages of this back and forth it always seems like the ultimatum laid down is either "don't buy used" or "mining isn't so bad."

Why is this always the case?
Mining can suck for a card. Miners can run them near 100%, in a hot box, with little airflow. That's how we get to see the "reclaimed" new card with extreme yellowing. Your anecdote is that you ran a bunch of cards not inside of a hot box, and they're fine. That's great...but anecdotally my 470 is about 6 years old and still runs well despite being in a gaming rig because if you buy more than one fan you can keep the thing plenty cool enough not to have issues.

The problem with anecdotes is that they are not facts, but instances. We hear from the OP that they're absolutely bent on buying one of two cards, and will not consider an alternative. One is 3 generations behind, and the other is 2 generation and was confirmed to be mined on. The discussion has evolved to how to replace thermal pads...and the concept of Watts per meter per Kelvin is an ask to understand. We have officially gone from what do I buy, to justify my decision and tell me how to fix the thing. I'm unwilling to understand what some of this means, and me taking the cards apart is probably not a great idea, but I'm going to take apart a used card and recondition it...because I'm unwilling to buy anything else. It's like somebody hell bent on buying a used car with a decent sound system installed, instead of buying a cheap new one, because they're sure that they are getting a deal with the used car and can fix any issues despite not knowing a torque wrench from a box end wrench.

Sometimes it's a bad idea to be incapable of making a decision, because you're sure the one you've already committed to is the best one. Sometimes your lack of knowledge should stop you from doing something that you don't understand. Despite this, the OP seems to really want this...so people are trying to walk them through fixing up a card based off of a link to the GPU database and basic understandings of how things should perform.
This is a disaster waiting to happen, where one or more thermal pads isn't thick enough, doesn't conduct enough heat, or simply doesn't cover a high heat item and results in a card that quickly bakes itself into oblivion...making the OP's deal on a card basically go up in flames. I want to watch...but this is not a success story in the making. It's at best a moderate non-failure, and at worst a complete destruction of a card in the search to save some money doing something that you don't understand.



Let me share a real story with you. Two guys go out, and start a landscaping business. Three years later they call my dad, because their truck is having huge issues starting. Cracks open the hood, pulls the dipstick, and finds a black molasses. Asks "when was the last time you changed the oil?" and gets a perplexed look. "I was topping it off every few months." They genuinely thought that the oil inside of a work truck simply needed to be topped off...and this was two guys who had literally been working on farms their teen life, and they were about 26 at the time of the story. Sometimes instead of "knowing" you can do something you should just take the L, and either ask or pay for the thing to be right. This applies to automotive maintenance, and buying a video card. That said, the OP seems to want justification for their decisions rather than to discuss the merits of things...so I'm of the mind that morbidly watching the situation may lead to amusement...and I hate myself a little for it.
This isn't about whether you should buy a used card or not. This is about deciding to buy a used card, asking strangers their opinion, understanding that you should recondition the thing you're buying, and demonstrating that you probably shouldn't be doing this because it's beyond your knowledge to understand. That said, it's the OP's money and time. I'm just looking forward to the discussion in about a month that will follow, when they run a test and the performance is off...and the ask to solve the problem for them with nothing more than the low performance numbers...because that's (usually) how these things go.



Side note, thermal conductivity, or Watts/m*K represents how much energy is conducted. Watts is in joules/second, m is basically the pad thickness, and K is the delta in temperatures between surfaces. So...let's do some fun math.
k=6W/m*K
K = 90C-28C = 62K (since both are in C we adjust for component temperature and ambient)
m = 0.75 mm = 0.00075m
A = 1cm^2 (a square centimeter segment) = 0.0001m^2
Q=k*A*K/m = 6*0.00075*62/0.0001 = 2790 Watts
That seems really high, right? Well, no. The aluminum will heat up, meaning that you've got that K value decreasing over time, which is why GPU heat sinks get hot to the touch. Once that K value goes down to 5 degrees you'll see the energy transfer is 225 Watts of heat...which is much more in-line with wicking off enough heat to prevent baking.
Well, aluminum has a k value of 237W/m*K, or 39.5 times higher than that thermal pad. Why use a thermal pad then...as they seem to be less about transfer and more about thermal blanketing? Well, note that the area of contact is a big part of this equation. If A is trivial then you basically have a part without heat transfer...so a thousand fold increase in A is preferred even if it comes with a 40th the conductivity. That said, when you have hard measures you prefer to use ground surfaces and thermal paste...because metal on metal is better.

Also regarding the thermal pads, they're mostly an oil matrix with suspended solids doing the lifting work on real heat transfer. If you tighten them too much they generally crack and break, rapidly bringing that contact area down. You don't want to compress the pads a lot, only enough to make complete physical contact. Again, without real measurements this is a guess. Custom cards generally have their own measures. This is another difficulty in reconditioning a card...because the right option is to have the OP use a micrometer to measure these instead of guessing...
 
Joined
Aug 12, 2019
Messages
2,292 (1.14/day)
Location
LV-426
System Name Custom
Processor i9 9900k
Motherboard Gigabyte Z390 arous master
Cooling corsair h150i
Memory 4x8 3200mhz corsair
Video Card(s) Galax RTX 3090 EX Gamer White OC
Storage 500gb Samsung 970 Evo PLus
Display(s) MSi MAG341CQ
Case Lian Li Pc-011 Dynamic
Audio Device(s) Arctis Pro Wireless
Power Supply 850w Seasonic Focus Platinum
Mouse Logitech G403
Keyboard Logitech G110
You know, after 12 pages of this back and forth it always seems like the ultimatum laid down is either "don't buy used" or "mining isn't so bad."

Why is this always the case?
Mining can suck for a card. Miners can run them near 100%, in a hot box, with little airflow. That's how we get to see the "reclaimed" new card with extreme yellowing. Your anecdote is that you ran a bunch of cards not inside of a hot box, and they're fine. That's great...but anecdotally my 470 is about 6 years old and still runs well despite being in a gaming rig because if you buy more than one fan you can keep the thing plenty cool enough not to have issues.

The problem with anecdotes is that they are not facts, but instances. We hear from the OP that they're absolutely bent on buying one of two cards, and will not consider an alternative. One is 3 generations behind, and the other is 2 generation and was confirmed to be mined on. The discussion has evolved to how to replace thermal pads...and the concept of Watts per meter per Kelvin is an ask to understand. We have officially gone from what do I buy, to justify my decision and tell me how to fix the thing. I'm unwilling to understand what some of this means, and me taking the cards apart is probably not a great idea, but I'm going to take apart a used card and recondition it...because I'm unwilling to buy anything else. It's like somebody hell bent on buying a used car with a decent sound system installed, instead of buying a cheap new one, because they're sure that they are getting a deal with the used car and can fix any issues despite not knowing a torque wrench from a box end wrench.

Sometimes it's a bad idea to be incapable of making a decision, because you're sure the one you've already committed to is the best one. Sometimes your lack of knowledge should stop you from doing something that you don't understand. Despite this, the OP seems to really want this...so people are trying to walk them through fixing up a card based off of a link to the GPU database and basic understandings of how things should perform.
This is a disaster waiting to happen, where one or more thermal pads isn't thick enough, doesn't conduct enough heat, or simply doesn't cover a high heat item and results in a card that quickly bakes itself into oblivion...making the OP's deal on a card basically go up in flames. I want to watch...but this is not a success story in the making. It's at best a moderate non-failure, and at worst a complete destruction of a card in the search to save some money doing something that you don't understand.



Let me share a real story with you. Two guys go out, and start a landscaping business. Three years later they call my dad, because their truck is having huge issues starting. Cracks open the hood, pulls the dipstick, and finds a black molasses. Asks "when was the last time you changed the oil?" and gets a perplexed look. "I was topping it off every few months." They genuinely thought that the oil inside of a work truck simply needed to be topped off...and this was two guys who had literally been working on farms their teen life, and they were about 26 at the time of the story. Sometimes instead of "knowing" you can do something you should just take the L, and either ask or pay for the thing to be right. This applies to automotive maintenance, and buying a video card. That said, the OP seems to want justification for their decisions rather than to discuss the merits of things...so I'm of the mind that morbidly watching the situation may lead to amusement...and I hate myself a little for it.
This isn't about whether you should buy a used card or not. This is about deciding to buy a used card, asking strangers their opinion, understanding that you should recondition the thing you're buying, and demonstrating that you probably shouldn't be doing this because it's beyond your knowledge to understand. That said, it's the OP's money and time. I'm just looking forward to the discussion in about a month that will follow, when they run a test and the performance is off...and the ask to solve the problem for them with nothing more than the low performance numbers...because that's (usually) how these things go.



Side note, thermal conductivity, or Watts/m*K represents how much energy is conducted. Watts is in joules/second, m is basically the pad thickness, and K is the delta in temperatures between surfaces. So...let's do some fun math.
k=6W/m*K
K = 90C-28C = 62K (since both are in C we adjust for component temperature and ambient)
m = 0.75 mm = 0.00075m
A = 1cm^2 (a square centimeter segment) = 0.0001m^2
Q=k*A*K/m = 6*0.00075*62/0.0001 = 2790 Watts
That seems really high, right? Well, no. The aluminum will heat up, meaning that you've got that K value decreasing over time, which is why GPU heat sinks get hot to the touch. Once that K value goes down to 5 degrees you'll see the energy transfer is 225 Watts of heat...which is much more in-line with wicking off enough heat to prevent baking.
Well, aluminum has a k value of 237W/m*K, or 39.5 times higher than that thermal pad. Why use a thermal pad then...as they seem to be less about transfer and more about thermal blanketing? Well, note that the area of contact is a big part of this equation. If A is trivial then you basically have a part without heat transfer...so a thousand fold increase in A is preferred even if it comes with a 40th the conductivity. That said, when you have hard measures you prefer to use ground surfaces and thermal paste...because metal on metal is better.

Also regarding the thermal pads, they're mostly an oil matrix with suspended solids doing the lifting work on real heat transfer. If you tighten them too much they generally crack and break, rapidly bringing that contact area down. You don't want to compress the pads a lot, only enough to make complete physical contact. Again, without real measurements this is a guess. Custom cards generally have their own measures. This is another difficulty in reconditioning a card...because the right option is to have the OP use a micrometer to measure these instead of guessing...
at the end of the day its op's decision, if it works cool and kudos to the all the forum members that helped op, if it doesnt and ended bricking the gpu then there is something to be learnt from this..
 
Last edited:

r9

Joined
Jul 28, 2008
Messages
3,300 (0.55/day)
System Name Primary|Secondary|Poweredge r410|Dell XPS|SteamDeck
Processor i7 11700k|i7 9700k|2 x E5620 |i5 5500U|Zen 2 4c/8t
Memory 32GB DDR4|16GB DDR4|16GB DDR4|32GB ECC DDR3|8GB DDR4|16GB LPDDR5
Video Card(s) RX 7800xt|RX 6700xt |On-Board|On-Board|8 RDNA 2 CUs
Storage 2TB m.2|512GB SSD+1TB SSD|2x256GBSSD 2x2TBGB|256GB sata|512GB nvme
Display(s) 50" 4k TV | Dell 27" |22" |3.3"|7"
VR HMD Samsung Odyssey+ | Oculus Quest 2
Software Windows 11 Pro|Windows 10 Pro|Windows 10 Home| Server 2012 r2|Windows 10 Pro
You know, after 12 pages of this back and forth it always seems like the ultimatum laid down is either "don't buy used" or "mining isn't so bad."

Why is this always the case?
Mining can suck for a card. Miners can run them near 100%, in a hot box, with little airflow. That's how we get to see the "reclaimed" new card with extreme yellowing. Your anecdote is that you ran a bunch of cards not inside of a hot box, and they're fine. That's great...but anecdotally my 470 is about 6 years old and still runs well despite being in a gaming rig because if you buy more than one fan you can keep the thing plenty cool enough not to have issues.

The problem with anecdotes is that they are not facts, but instances. We hear from the OP that they're absolutely bent on buying one of two cards, and will not consider an alternative. One is 3 generations behind, and the other is 2 generation and was confirmed to be mined on. The discussion has evolved to how to replace thermal pads...and the concept of Watts per meter per Kelvin is an ask to understand. We have officially gone from what do I buy, to justify my decision and tell me how to fix the thing. I'm unwilling to understand what some of this means, and me taking the cards apart is probably not a great idea, but I'm going to take apart a used card and recondition it...because I'm unwilling to buy anything else. It's like somebody hell bent on buying a used car with a decent sound system installed, instead of buying a cheap new one, because they're sure that they are getting a deal with the used car and can fix any issues despite not knowing a torque wrench from a box end wrench.

Sometimes it's a bad idea to be incapable of making a decision, because you're sure the one you've already committed to is the best one. Sometimes your lack of knowledge should stop you from doing something that you don't understand. Despite this, the OP seems to really want this...so people are trying to walk them through fixing up a card based off of a link to the GPU database and basic understandings of how things should perform.
This is a disaster waiting to happen, where one or more thermal pads isn't thick enough, doesn't conduct enough heat, or simply doesn't cover a high heat item and results in a card that quickly bakes itself into oblivion...making the OP's deal on a card basically go up in flames. I want to watch...but this is not a success story in the making. It's at best a moderate non-failure, and at worst a complete destruction of a card in the search to save some money doing something that you don't understand.



Let me share a real story with you. Two guys go out, and start a landscaping business. Three years later they call my dad, because their truck is having huge issues starting. Cracks open the hood, pulls the dipstick, and finds a black molasses. Asks "when was the last time you changed the oil?" and gets a perplexed look. "I was topping it off every few months." They genuinely thought that the oil inside of a work truck simply needed to be topped off...and this was two guys who had literally been working on farms their teen life, and they were about 26 at the time of the story. Sometimes instead of "knowing" you can do something you should just take the L, and either ask or pay for the thing to be right. This applies to automotive maintenance, and buying a video card. That said, the OP seems to want justification for their decisions rather than to discuss the merits of things...so I'm of the mind that morbidly watching the situation may lead to amusement...and I hate myself a little for it.
This isn't about whether you should buy a used card or not. This is about deciding to buy a used card, asking strangers their opinion, understanding that you should recondition the thing you're buying, and demonstrating that you probably shouldn't be doing this because it's beyond your knowledge to understand. That said, it's the OP's money and time. I'm just looking forward to the discussion in about a month that will follow, when they run a test and the performance is off...and the ask to solve the problem for them with nothing more than the low performance numbers...because that's (usually) how these things go.



Side note, thermal conductivity, or Watts/m*K represents how much energy is conducted. Watts is in joules/second, m is basically the pad thickness, and K is the delta in temperatures between surfaces. So...let's do some fun math.
k=6W/m*K
K = 90C-28C = 62K (since both are in C we adjust for component temperature and ambient)
m = 0.75 mm = 0.00075m
A = 1cm^2 (a square centimeter segment) = 0.0001m^2
Q=k*A*K/m = 6*0.00075*62/0.0001 = 2790 Watts
That seems really high, right? Well, no. The aluminum will heat up, meaning that you've got that K value decreasing over time, which is why GPU heat sinks get hot to the touch. Once that K value goes down to 5 degrees you'll see the energy transfer is 225 Watts of heat...which is much more in-line with wicking off enough heat to prevent baking.
Well, aluminum has a k value of 237W/m*K, or 39.5 times higher than that thermal pad. Why use a thermal pad then...as they seem to be less about transfer and more about thermal blanketing? Well, note that the area of contact is a big part of this equation. If A is trivial then you basically have a part without heat transfer...so a thousand fold increase in A is preferred even if it comes with a 40th the conductivity. That said, when you have hard measures you prefer to use ground surfaces and thermal paste...because metal on metal is better.

Also regarding the thermal pads, they're mostly an oil matrix with suspended solids doing the lifting work on real heat transfer. If you tighten them too much they generally crack and break, rapidly bringing that contact area down. You don't want to compress the pads a lot, only enough to make complete physical contact. Again, without real measurements this is a guess. Custom cards generally have their own measures. This is another difficulty in reconditioning a card...because the right option is to have the OP use a micrometer to measure these instead of guessing...
Didn't read the whole post but you get a like for the effort.
 
Joined
Jun 7, 2023
Messages
173 (0.28/day)
Location
Holy Roman Empire
System Name Shadowchaser /// Shadowchaser Jr.
Processor AMD Ryzen 7 7700 /// AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
Motherboard Asus ROG Strix X670E-E Gaming /// Asus ROG Strix B550-E Gaming
Cooling Noctua NH-D15S chromax.black /// Thermalright Venomous X
Memory Kingston Fury Beast RGB 6000C30 2x16GB /// G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3200C14 4x8GB
Video Card(s) Zotac GeForce RTX 4080 Trinity 16GB /// Gigabyte G1 GTX 980Ti
Storage Kingston KC3000 2TB + Samsung 970EVO 2TB + 2x WD Red 4TB /// Samsung 970EVO 1TB + WD Red 4TB
Display(s) Gigabyte M27Q /// Dell U2715H
Case Fractal Define 7 Black /// Fractal Define R5 Black
Power Supply Seasonic SS-750KM3 /// Seasonic SS-660KM
Mouse Logitech MX Master 2S /// Logitech MX Master
Software Linux Debian 12 x64 + MS Windows 10 Pro x64
You know, after 12 pages of this back and forth it always seems like the ultimatum laid down is either "don't buy used" or "mining isn't so bad."

Why is this always the case?
Mining can suck for a card. Miners can run them near 100%, in a hot box, with little airflow. That's how we get to see the "reclaimed" new card with extreme yellowing. Your anecdote is that you ran a bunch of cards not inside of a hot box, and they're fine. That's great...but anecdotally my 470 is about 6 years old and still runs well despite being in a gaming rig because if you buy more than one fan you can keep the thing plenty cool enough not to have issues.

The problem with anecdotes is that they are not facts, but instances. We hear from the OP that they're absolutely bent on buying one of two cards, and will not consider an alternative. One is 3 generations behind, and the other is 2 generation and was confirmed to be mined on. The discussion has evolved to how to replace thermal pads...and the concept of Watts per meter per Kelvin is an ask to understand. We have officially gone from what do I buy, to justify my decision and tell me how to fix the thing. I'm unwilling to understand what some of this means, and me taking the cards apart is probably not a great idea, but I'm going to take apart a used card and recondition it...because I'm unwilling to buy anything else. It's like somebody hell bent on buying a used car with a decent sound system installed, instead of buying a cheap new one, because they're sure that they are getting a deal with the used car and can fix any issues despite not knowing a torque wrench from a box end wrench.

Sometimes it's a bad idea to be incapable of making a decision, because you're sure the one you've already committed to is the best one. Sometimes your lack of knowledge should stop you from doing something that you don't understand. Despite this, the OP seems to really want this...so people are trying to walk them through fixing up a card based off of a link to the GPU database and basic understandings of how things should perform.
This is a disaster waiting to happen, where one or more thermal pads isn't thick enough, doesn't conduct enough heat, or simply doesn't cover a high heat item and results in a card that quickly bakes itself into oblivion...making the OP's deal on a card basically go up in flames. I want to watch...but this is not a success story in the making. It's at best a moderate non-failure, and at worst a complete destruction of a card in the search to save some money doing something that you don't understand.



Let me share a real story with you. Two guys go out, and start a landscaping business. Three years later they call my dad, because their truck is having huge issues starting. Cracks open the hood, pulls the dipstick, and finds a black molasses. Asks "when was the last time you changed the oil?" and gets a perplexed look. "I was topping it off every few months." They genuinely thought that the oil inside of a work truck simply needed to be topped off...and this was two guys who had literally been working on farms their teen life, and they were about 26 at the time of the story. Sometimes instead of "knowing" you can do something you should just take the L, and either ask or pay for the thing to be right. This applies to automotive maintenance, and buying a video card. That said, the OP seems to want justification for their decisions rather than to discuss the merits of things...so I'm of the mind that morbidly watching the situation may lead to amusement...and I hate myself a little for it.
This isn't about whether you should buy a used card or not. This is about deciding to buy a used card, asking strangers their opinion, understanding that you should recondition the thing you're buying, and demonstrating that you probably shouldn't be doing this because it's beyond your knowledge to understand. That said, it's the OP's money and time. I'm just looking forward to the discussion in about a month that will follow, when they run a test and the performance is off...and the ask to solve the problem for them with nothing more than the low performance numbers...because that's (usually) how these things go.



Side note, thermal conductivity, or Watts/m*K represents how much energy is conducted. Watts is in joules/second, m is basically the pad thickness, and K is the delta in temperatures between surfaces. So...let's do some fun math.
k=6W/m*K
K = 90C-28C = 62K (since both are in C we adjust for component temperature and ambient)
m = 0.75 mm = 0.00075m
A = 1cm^2 (a square centimeter segment) = 0.0001m^2
Q=k*A*K/m = 6*0.00075*62/0.0001 = 2790 Watts
That seems really high, right? Well, no. The aluminum will heat up, meaning that you've got that K value decreasing over time, which is why GPU heat sinks get hot to the touch. Once that K value goes down to 5 degrees you'll see the energy transfer is 225 Watts of heat...which is much more in-line with wicking off enough heat to prevent baking.
Well, aluminum has a k value of 237W/m*K, or 39.5 times higher than that thermal pad. Why use a thermal pad then...as they seem to be less about transfer and more about thermal blanketing? Well, note that the area of contact is a big part of this equation. If A is trivial then you basically have a part without heat transfer...so a thousand fold increase in A is preferred even if it comes with a 40th the conductivity. That said, when you have hard measures you prefer to use ground surfaces and thermal paste...because metal on metal is better.

Also regarding the thermal pads, they're mostly an oil matrix with suspended solids doing the lifting work on real heat transfer. If you tighten them too much they generally crack and break, rapidly bringing that contact area down. You don't want to compress the pads a lot, only enough to make complete physical contact. Again, without real measurements this is a guess. Custom cards generally have their own measures. This is another difficulty in reconditioning a card...because the right option is to have the OP use a micrometer to measure these instead of guessing...
great post, mate. stealing it :)
 
Joined
Jan 5, 2006
Messages
18,584 (2.66/day)
System Name AlderLake
Processor Intel i7 12700K P-Cores @ 5Ghz
Motherboard Gigabyte Z690 Aorus Master
Cooling Noctua NH-U12A 2 fans + Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Extreme + 5 case fans
Memory 32GB DDR5 Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB 6000MT/s CL36
Video Card(s) MSI RTX 2070 Super Gaming X Trio
Storage Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Evo 500GB + 850 Pro 512GB + 860 Evo 1TB x2
Display(s) 23.8" Dell S2417DG 165Hz G-Sync 1440p
Case Be quiet! Silent Base 600 - Window
Audio Device(s) Panasonic SA-PMX94 / Realtek onboard + B&O speaker system / Harman Kardon Go + Play / Logitech G533
Power Supply Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 750W
Mouse Logitech MX Anywhere 2 Laser wireless
Keyboard RAPOO E9270P Black 5GHz wireless
Software Windows 11
Benchmark Scores Cinebench R23 (Single Core) 1936 @ stock Cinebench R23 (Multi Core) 23006 @ stock
Joined
Nov 16, 2007
Messages
1,242 (0.20/day)
Location
Hampton Roads
Processor Xeon x5650
Motherboard SABERTOOTH X58
Cooling Fans
Memory 24 GB Kingston HyperX 1600
Video Card(s) GTX 1060 3GB
Storage small ssd
Display(s) Dell 2001F, BenQ short throw
Case Lian Li
Audio Device(s) onboard
Power Supply X750
Software Mint 19.3, Win 10
Benchmark Scores not so fast...
Joined
Jan 5, 2006
Messages
18,584 (2.66/day)
System Name AlderLake
Processor Intel i7 12700K P-Cores @ 5Ghz
Motherboard Gigabyte Z690 Aorus Master
Cooling Noctua NH-U12A 2 fans + Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Extreme + 5 case fans
Memory 32GB DDR5 Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB 6000MT/s CL36
Video Card(s) MSI RTX 2070 Super Gaming X Trio
Storage Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Evo 500GB + 850 Pro 512GB + 860 Evo 1TB x2
Display(s) 23.8" Dell S2417DG 165Hz G-Sync 1440p
Case Be quiet! Silent Base 600 - Window
Audio Device(s) Panasonic SA-PMX94 / Realtek onboard + B&O speaker system / Harman Kardon Go + Play / Logitech G533
Power Supply Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 750W
Mouse Logitech MX Anywhere 2 Laser wireless
Keyboard RAPOO E9270P Black 5GHz wireless
Software Windows 11
Benchmark Scores Cinebench R23 (Single Core) 1936 @ stock Cinebench R23 (Multi Core) 23006 @ stock
OP was buying thermal pads/sheets for it's used 2080Ti, that's the last thing I know.
 

eidairaman1

The Exiled Airman
Joined
Jul 2, 2007
Messages
43,545 (6.77/day)
Location
Republic of Texas (True Patriot)
System Name PCGOD
Processor AMD FX 8350@ 5.0GHz
Motherboard Asus TUF 990FX Sabertooth R2 2901 Bios
Cooling Scythe Ashura, 2×BitFenix 230mm Spectre Pro LED (Blue,Green), 2x BitFenix 140mm Spectre Pro LED
Memory 16 GB Gskill Ripjaws X 2133 (2400 OC, 10-10-12-20-20, 1T, 1.65V)
Video Card(s) AMD Radeon 290 Sapphire Vapor-X
Storage Samsung 840 Pro 256GB, WD Velociraptor 1TB
Display(s) NEC Multisync LCD 1700V (Display Port Adapter)
Case AeroCool Xpredator Evil Blue Edition
Audio Device(s) Creative Labs Sound Blaster ZxR
Power Supply Seasonic 1250 XM2 Series (XP3)
Mouse Roccat Kone XTD
Keyboard Roccat Ryos MK Pro
Software Windows 7 Pro 64
You know, after 12 pages of this back and forth it always seems like the ultimatum laid down is either "don't buy used" or "mining isn't so bad."

Why is this always the case?
Mining can suck for a card. Miners can run them near 100%, in a hot box, with little airflow. That's how we get to see the "reclaimed" new card with extreme yellowing. Your anecdote is that you ran a bunch of cards not inside of a hot box, and they're fine. That's great...but anecdotally my 470 is about 6 years old and still runs well despite being in a gaming rig because if you buy more than one fan you can keep the thing plenty cool enough not to have issues.

The problem with anecdotes is that they are not facts, but instances. We hear from the OP that they're absolutely bent on buying one of two cards, and will not consider an alternative. One is 3 generations behind, and the other is 2 generation and was confirmed to be mined on. The discussion has evolved to how to replace thermal pads...and the concept of Watts per meter per Kelvin is an ask to understand. We have officially gone from what do I buy, to justify my decision and tell me how to fix the thing. I'm unwilling to understand what some of this means, and me taking the cards apart is probably not a great idea, but I'm going to take apart a used card and recondition it...because I'm unwilling to buy anything else. It's like somebody hell bent on buying a used car with a decent sound system installed, instead of buying a cheap new one, because they're sure that they are getting a deal with the used car and can fix any issues despite not knowing a torque wrench from a box end wrench.

Sometimes it's a bad idea to be incapable of making a decision, because you're sure the one you've already committed to is the best one. Sometimes your lack of knowledge should stop you from doing something that you don't understand. Despite this, the OP seems to really want this...so people are trying to walk them through fixing up a card based off of a link to the GPU database and basic understandings of how things should perform.
This is a disaster waiting to happen, where one or more thermal pads isn't thick enough, doesn't conduct enough heat, or simply doesn't cover a high heat item and results in a card that quickly bakes itself into oblivion...making the OP's deal on a card basically go up in flames. I want to watch...but this is not a success story in the making. It's at best a moderate non-failure, and at worst a complete destruction of a card in the search to save some money doing something that you don't understand.



Let me share a real story with you. Two guys go out, and start a landscaping business. Three years later they call my dad, because their truck is having huge issues starting. Cracks open the hood, pulls the dipstick, and finds a black molasses. Asks "when was the last time you changed the oil?" and gets a perplexed look. "I was topping it off every few months." They genuinely thought that the oil inside of a work truck simply needed to be topped off...and this was two guys who had literally been working on farms their teen life, and they were about 26 at the time of the story. Sometimes instead of "knowing" you can do something you should just take the L, and either ask or pay for the thing to be right. This applies to automotive maintenance, and buying a video card. That said, the OP seems to want justification for their decisions rather than to discuss the merits of things...so I'm of the mind that morbidly watching the situation may lead to amusement...and I hate myself a little for it.
This isn't about whether you should buy a used card or not. This is about deciding to buy a used card, asking strangers their opinion, understanding that you should recondition the thing you're buying, and demonstrating that you probably shouldn't be doing this because it's beyond your knowledge to understand. That said, it's the OP's money and time. I'm just looking forward to the discussion in about a month that will follow, when they run a test and the performance is off...and the ask to solve the problem for them with nothing more than the low performance numbers...because that's (usually) how these things go.



Side note, thermal conductivity, or Watts/m*K represents how much energy is conducted. Watts is in joules/second, m is basically the pad thickness, and K is the delta in temperatures between surfaces. So...let's do some fun math.
k=6W/m*K
K = 90C-28C = 62K (since both are in C we adjust for component temperature and ambient)
m = 0.75 mm = 0.00075m
A = 1cm^2 (a square centimeter segment) = 0.0001m^2
Q=k*A*K/m = 6*0.00075*62/0.0001 = 2790 Watts
That seems really high, right? Well, no. The aluminum will heat up, meaning that you've got that K value decreasing over time, which is why GPU heat sinks get hot to the touch. Once that K value goes down to 5 degrees you'll see the energy transfer is 225 Watts of heat...which is much more in-line with wicking off enough heat to prevent baking.
Well, aluminum has a k value of 237W/m*K, or 39.5 times higher than that thermal pad. Why use a thermal pad then...as they seem to be less about transfer and more about thermal blanketing? Well, note that the area of contact is a big part of this equation. If A is trivial then you basically have a part without heat transfer...so a thousand fold increase in A is preferred even if it comes with a 40th the conductivity. That said, when you have hard measures you prefer to use ground surfaces and thermal paste...because metal on metal is better.

Also regarding the thermal pads, they're mostly an oil matrix with suspended solids doing the lifting work on real heat transfer. If you tighten them too much they generally crack and break, rapidly bringing that contact area down. You don't want to compress the pads a lot, only enough to make complete physical contact. Again, without real measurements this is a guess. Custom cards generally have their own measures. This is another difficulty in reconditioning a card...because the right option is to have the OP use a micrometer to measure these instead of guessing...
Now you get my thoughts on this thread, abandonship.

A feeler/gap gauge is needed as well.

at the end of the day its op's decision, if it works cool and kudos to the all the forum members that helped op, if it doesnt and ended bricking the gpu then there is something to be learnt from this..
Yup good luck fixing it, I wont.

Point is, buying crap is playing craps
 
Joined
Sep 27, 2022
Messages
141 (0.16/day)
Processor i7 7820x
Motherboard Asus Strix x299 XE-Gaming
Cooling Corsair AIO water H115i
Memory 32GB DDR4 Corsair 2400Mhz Quad channel (4x8GB)
Video Card(s) MSi RTX 2080 Ti
Storage SSD 860Evo+ HDD 3TB WD
Display(s) Samsung 48ju6400 +Full HD videoprojector
Case Kandalf VA 9000BWS Full tower modded
Audio Device(s) Azalia
Power Supply 750w Intertech Argus Gold 80+
Mouse cheap one wireless
Keyboard wireless
Software windows 10 pro x64
Job done !!
I had the courage to work on the video card ALONE without any help.I worked on the card for 3 hours,i COMPLETE all thermal PADS missing carefully,i assembly the card carefully....and all is done !!! I use Arctic MX-4 thermal paste for gpu.
3 hours of work.I'm going to get drunk :cool:
In idle temp i have 28-32 degree and in full load about 50 degree.In game: The Last of Us i have 50 degree
I still cry of hapiness .GOD help me and love me ! :toast:
:D:D
 

Attachments

  • 3.jpg
    3.jpg
    217.8 KB · Views: 69
  • 4.jpg
    4.jpg
    131 KB · Views: 61
  • 5.jpg
    5.jpg
    165.5 KB · Views: 63
  • 6.jpg
    6.jpg
    180.8 KB · Views: 59
  • job done-finish.jpg
    job done-finish.jpg
    111.6 KB · Views: 69
  • ready for work 2.jpg
    ready for work 2.jpg
    171.9 KB · Views: 70
  • test last of us2.jpg
    test last of us2.jpg
    155.8 KB · Views: 56
  • test last of us3.jpg
    test last of us3.jpg
    221.9 KB · Views: 54
  • y.jpg
    y.jpg
    185.7 KB · Views: 62
  • z.jpg
    z.jpg
    193.4 KB · Views: 57
  • victory !.jpg
    victory !.jpg
    245.8 KB · Views: 56
  • Diablo 3.jpg
    Diablo 3.jpg
    278.9 KB · Views: 55
  • scheme 1.jpg
    scheme 1.jpg
    159.3 KB · Views: 45
  • scheme 2.jpg
    scheme 2.jpg
    163.2 KB · Views: 53
Last edited:
Joined
May 7, 2023
Messages
729 (1.13/day)
Processor Ryzen 5700x
Motherboard Gigabyte Auros Elite AX V2
Cooling Thermalright Peerless Assassin SE White
Memory TeamGroup T-Force Delta RGB 32GB 3600Mhz
Video Card(s) PowerColor Red Dragon Rx 6800
Storage Fanxiang S660 1TB, Fanxiang S500 Pro 1TB, BraveEagle 240GB SSD, 2TB Seagate HDD
Case Corsair 4000D White
Power Supply Corsair RM750x SHIFT
Job done !!
I had the courage to work on the video card ALONE without any help.I worked on the card for 3 hours,i COMPLETE all thermal PADS missing carefully,i assembly the card carefully....and all is done !!! I use Arctic MX-4 thermal paste for gpu.
3 hours of work.I'm going to get drunk :cool:
In idle temp i have 28-32 degree and in full load about 50 degree.In game: The Last of Us i have 50 degree
I still cry of hapiness .GOD help me and love me ! :toast:
:D:D
Congrats, hopefully lesson learned, though valuable experience gained in the process, enjoy your GPU, hopefully it has a long and less tortured life
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top