ch341a programmer not reading bios chip

[don1215]

Hi I'm trying to unbrick my laptop which is a hp 15 dk0096wm with a ch341a USB programmer and I've tried reseating the jumper about 50 times and I'm getting nothing at all I tried as programmer ch341a programmer and neo programmer downloaded the correct drivers and it doesn't seem like it will read please help
Here's a video to explain what I'm talking about

 

[Deleted member 232534]

what is the bios chip? what is its voltage? what is the voltage of the progrmmer?

 

[Ferrum Master]

And there are shitloads of ch341 devices...

MOST do need modifications to work.

 

[don1215]

This is the bios chip and this is the programmer I bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R5LPTYM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

[LabRat 891]

what is the bios chip? what is its voltage? what is the voltage of the progrmmer?

I'm inexperienced in this area but, in my research 3.3v vs. 5v was a big deal. I believe some are 1.8v(?) too. Not all firmware chips are tolerant of having too high of voltage thrown at them.
Hopefully, this is something simple/correctable; else, soldering on a new chip may be in OP's future.

 

[Deleted member 232534]

This is the bios chip and this is the programmer I bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R5LPTYM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

i'm suppose to internet serch this for you? ok

 

[don1215]

i'm suppose to internet serch this for you? ok

U literally asked what kind of chip it was I sent u an actual picture of it what's the problem?

 

[LabRat 891]

i'm suppose to internet serch this for you? ok

I'm just gonna be nice and assume he had issue deciphering the alphanumeric characters.

winbond 25Q80EWSIG

25Q80EWSIG datasheet, memory equivalent, Winbond

25Q80EWSIG datasheet, 25Q80EWSIG memory equivalent, Winbond, Features and benefits, Stock and price

datasheetspdf.com

it's a 1.8V chip. That's likely a consequential problem.

Edit: reviews on the CH341a you purchased do report it 'working' with a 1.8v SPI Flash ROM, but not OP's explicitly. I do recall some chips are voltage-tolerant, others not. Also IIRC, some CH341a's have some sort of configurable voltage. Which, even set to +3.3v is both A. still too high and B. still +5V on some CH341a's.

 

[don1215]

I'm just gonna be nice and assume he had issue deciphering the alphanumeric characters.

winbond 25Q80EWSIG

25Q80EWSIG datasheet, memory equivalent, Winbond

25Q80EWSIG datasheet, 25Q80EWSIG memory equivalent, Winbond, Features and benefits, Stock and price

datasheetspdf.com

it's a 1.8V chip. That's likely a consequential problem.

Thanks for the info do u have any suggestions on what to do?

 

[FoulOnWhite]

Indeed, could have blown the chip. I have a v1.7 programmer with adjustable voltage.

Thanks for the info do u have any suggestions on what to do?

If you cannot do it yourself, you might have to have the bios chip replaced by a shop/pro.
For future use get one of these V1.7 programmers
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BY96JQN3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[LabRat 891]

Thanks for the info do u have any suggestions on what to do?

Read through this guide (a quick 'skim-thru' gave me the impression it was quality and comprehensive instructions)

Dumping Firmware With the CH341a Programmer - Black Hills Information Security

Rick Wisser // Note: This blog will also be a lab for any of the upcoming Wild West Hackin’ Fest Conferences. During a recent engagement, I came across an issue. […]

www.blackhillsinfosec.com

At least 'by spec' of your SPI Flash you'll need a 1.8V adapter, even if the CH341a you have correctly outputs 3.3v, when set as such (this is/was a common problem).
(You may want to 'test' the CH341a on *something* that by-spec accepts +5VCC, just to make sure the CH341a unit works. Then, buy the 1.8V add-on while hoping/praying the Winbond 25Q80EWSIG survived 200-278% overvoltage)

 

[don1215]

Indeed, could have blown the chip. I have a v1.7 programmer with adjustable voltage.



If you cannot do it yourself, you might have to have the bios chip replaced by a shop/pro.
For future use get one of these V1.7 programmers
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BY96JQN3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Should I try this then?

Read through this guide (a quick 'skim-thru' gave me the impression it was quality and comprehensive instructions)

Dumping Firmware With the CH341a Programmer - Black Hills Information Security

Rick Wisser // Note: This blog will also be a lab for any of the upcoming Wild West Hackin’ Fest Conferences. During a recent engagement, I came across an issue. […]

www.blackhillsinfosec.com

At least 'by spec' of your SPI Flash you'll need a 1.8V adapter, even if the CH341a you have correctly outputs 3.3v, when set as such (this is/was a common problem).
(You may want to 'test' the CH341a on *something* that by-spec accepts +5VCC, just to make sure the CH341a unit works. Then, buy the 1.8V add-on while hoping/praying the Winbond 25Q80EWSIG survived 200-278% overvoltage)

Thank ill give it a shot

 

[LabRat 891]

Should I try this then?View attachment 309466


Thank ill give it a shot

It might be harder/more expensive to get w/o the whole kit, but yeah.. that was the direction I was going.

Indeed, could have blown the chip. I have a v1.7 programmer with adjustable voltage.

If you cannot do it yourself, you might have to have the bios chip replaced by a shop/pro.
For future use get one of these V1.7 programmers
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BY96JQN3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This seems like a better option.

 

[don1215]

It might be harder/more expensive to get w/o the whole kit, but yeah.. that was the direction I was going.


This seems like a better option.

Indeed, could have blown the chip. I have a v1.7 programmer with adjustable voltage.



If you cannot do it yourself, you might have to have the bios chip replaced by a shop/pro.
For future use get one of these V1.7 programmers
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BY96JQN3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do u know where I can buy a new bios chip pre programmed?

 

[LabRat 891]

Do u know where I can buy a new bios chip pre programmed?

AFAIK, eBay has been the place. I've only once had to buy one, and thankfully it was a socketed ROM.

The amazon link you provided implies you're in the US; so, eBay's probably an option. If your machine was 'commodity' and older, the whole dang mainboard might be an option.
(Either replacing it wholecloth, or kit-bashing over the SPI Flash ROM.)

edit:
Not to reinforce the whole free internet tech support *thing* going on...
But, how did this situation precipitate?

I'm guessing you had a bad software flash, potentially of a self-modded or 'found online, somewhere' modified firmware?
Before you took it apart, did you investigate if HP had a 'blind recovery' method for bad flashes? It's not uncommon for HP, etc. laptops to have "Technical Manuals" available, or at least some HP Forum response about how to "Recover From a Bad BIOS Flash"?

The 'industry standard' generally (if so-equipped) is having the uncompressed firmware file sitting alone in the root dir of a FAT32-formatted flash drive.
Some units need the file renamed
Some units required a specific input sequence from the Keyboard and/or 'hot key bar' at power-on, while the prepared drive was inserted.
Even, some surprisingly-new mobos and laptops require a Factory-Made <4GiB USB Flash Drive

 

[FoulOnWhite]

Do u know where I can buy a new bios chip pre programmed?

You might not get one preprogrammed, probably only get a fresh chip.

 

[don1215]

AFAIK, eBay has been the place. I've only once had to buy one, and thankfully it was a socketed ROM.

The amazon link you provided implies you're in the US; so, eBay's probably an option. If your machine was 'commodity' and older, the whole dang mainboard might be an option.
(Either replacing it wholecloth, or kit-bashing over the SPI Flash ROM.)

edit:
Not to reinforce the whole free internet tech support *thing* going on...
But, how did this situation precipitate?

I'm guessing you had a bad software flash, potentially of a self-modded or 'found online, somewhere' modified firmware?
Before you took it apart, did you investigate if HP had a 'blind recovery' method for bad flashes? It's not uncommon for HP, etc. laptops to have "Technical Manuals" available, or at least some HP Forum response about how to "Recover From a Bad BIOS Flash"?

The 'industry standard' generally (if so-equipped) is having the uncompressed firmware file sitting alone in the root dir of a FAT32-formatted flash drive.
Some units need the file renamed
Some units required a specific input sequence from the Keyboard and/or 'hot key bar' at power-on, while the prepared drive was inserted.
Even, some surprisingly-new mobos and laptops require a Factory-Made <4GiB USB Flash Driver

The laptop just started randomly turning off when I would turn it on and at some point just lost all power no charging no lights and no I didn't look into the HP thing because I figured it was out of warranty and they wouldn't help me

 

[LabRat 891]

The laptop just started randomly turning off when I would turn it on and at some point just lost all power no charging no lights and no I didn't look into the HP thing because I figured it was out of warranty and they wouldn't help me

New Topic worthy.... but,
What lead you to believe the SPI Flash ROM was responsible? Not discounting where you went with the issue but, that wouldn't have been my first-thought.

Typically (in the era of user-swappable batteries), those are symptoms of overheating and/or cold solder joints, possibly a bad fuse or failed power component once it no longer even tried to power on.
Today, I'd point towards a battery that's iffy (unstable Voltage under load due to cell aging/damage), eventually deteriorating into the BMS shunting it for safety.

 

[don1215]

New Topic worthy.... but,
What lead you to believe the SPI Flash ROM was responsible? Not discounting where you went with the issue but, that wouldn't have been my first-thought.

Typically (in the era of user-swappable batteries), that's overheating and/or cold solder joints, possibly a bad fuse once it no longer even tried to power on.
Today, I'd point towards a battery that's iffy (unstable Voltage under load due to cell aging/damage), eventually deteriorating into the BMS shunting it for safety.

Because even the battery is bad it would still run off of AC power and the charging light doesn't even come on when I plug it in

 

[LabRat 891]

Because even the battery is bad it would still run off of AC power and the charging light doesn't even come on when I plug it in

Not necessarily. anyway...

Do u know where I can buy a new bios chip pre programmed?

Yes.

BIOS CHIP HP Pavilion Gaming 15-dk0096wm, 15-dk0xxx series, LA-H461P, LA-H462P | eBay

BIOS CHIP for HP Pavilion Gaming 15-dk0096wm. If you lose your bios password, we can help you. remove BIOS PASSWORD. If you fail to upgrade your BIOS and now your laptop doesn't boot, we can help you.

www.ebay.com

Assuming you have the means and skills to de-and-re-solder the chip; there ya go

While you may have 'nuked' the SPI ROM with overvoltage, we're not 100% sure. I would highly recommend posting a fresh thread in the appropriate section about troubleshooting your laptop.

 

[don1215]

Not necessarily. anyway...

Yes.

BIOS CHIP HP Pavilion Gaming 15-dk0096wm, 15-dk0xxx series, LA-H461P, LA-H462P | eBay

BIOS CHIP for HP Pavilion Gaming 15-dk0096wm. If you lose your bios password, we can help you. remove BIOS PASSWORD. If you fail to upgrade your BIOS and now your laptop doesn't boot, we can help you.

www.ebay.com

Assuming you have the means and skills to de-and-re-solder the chip; there ya go

While you may have 'nuked' the SPI ROM with overvoltage, we're not 100% sure. I would highly recommend posting a fresh thread in the appropriate section about troubleshooting your laptop.

When u say not necessarily are u saying there can be another reason why I have no power ?

 

[Ferrum Master]

Those cheap flashers need mods to work with clip. They lack everything. Lack capacity, voltage drops fast and also... some pins need to be grounded to use clips depending on your IC.

And yet you fried the chip not looking at the most basic thing... VOLTAGE.

That's what you get calling things in inappropriate things... amperage etc...

It is a tool for those who understand, not a toy.

 

[LabRat 891]

When u say not necessarily are u saying there can be another reason why I have no power ?

BMS's are still a cruel mistress for me. Sometimes when the battery says its really bad, the whole kit-and-caboodle shuts off for safety. IIRC, At least one 'battery-integral' laptop I worked on would not function at all with no battery connected. AFAIK smartphones are also designed this way.

Personally, I'm guessing a failed board-level component. Hopefully something hand-repairable like a simple little SMD fuse, an overheated resistor, diode, etc.
However, the symptoms you mentioned reminded me greatly of chronically overheating old laptops that progress into solder joint failure.

Those cheap flashers need mods to work with clip. They lack everything. Lack capacity, voltage drops fast and also... some pins need to be grounded to use clips depending on your IC.

And yet you fried the chip not looking at the most basic thing... VOLTAGE.

That's what you get calling things in inappropriate things... amperage etc...

It is a tool for those who understand, not a toy.

Hard Truth. The effort and $ invested will be a lasting lesson. If taken the right way, none of these mistakes will be a total loss.
Even 'Pros' today often have their own tales of (in their own retrospectives) *very* dumb mistakes.

 

[Ferrum Master]

Personally, I'm guessing a failed board-level component.

If he claims he even cannot read the IC, he has made a cemetery there. I hope the LPC controller IO and clock is also 3.3V tolerant... he could fried not only the SPI but the whole LPC controller.

 

[LabRat 891]

If he claims he even cannot read the IC, he has made a cemetery there. I hope the LPC controller IO and clock is also 3.3V tolerant... he could fried not only the SPI but the whole LPC controller.

Well... more reason to try and find a compatible replacement board. Judging by the BIOS chip I found for OP, it looks like his 'gaming laptop' shares motherboard/mainboard with some Pavilions'.

Edit: NVM, they're $300+. The whole dang laptop was sold refurb on Walmart for $399 semi-recently (OOS now).