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What's your latest tech purchase?

de.das.dude

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My netgear R7000 suffered from the same issue. Heavy use particularly during the warmer months in the UK would cause my router to crash. This happened even during simple gaming sessions when it was just me using the internet. So I changed the power supply to a much more beefy one and all the crashing stopped :laugh:

My theory was that the stock power adapter was getting really hot and not being able to keep up the required output and I was right. Unfortunately the beefier power supply died and rather than replace it, its probably a better Idea that I replace my R7000 altogether for something newer which is where the TP-link comes in.

(My Router: Netgear R7000 nighthawk AC1900)

Have you tried something from https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/ghetto-mods.55387/page-171 like our ghetto mod jesus @micropage7 ?
 
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parts trickling in, did i hear someone say form over function? i hate cleaning up dribbled over paste from AMD cpus

View attachment 335784

I have that same in black, works with AiO like Arctic Freezer II/III, i just received the III (had the II) :
 

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Low-budget system shopping! We're not in the US here, so things are more expensive and way trickier to source if you want to remain cheap. This leads to interesting part selections when you're trying to maximize your bang-for-the-buck.

And so, the spare parts (plus) build is now in the house, replacing an i7 2600K system (a really ancient Elite 8200 MT) that was still seeing use here, but unfortunately died (and is completely full of proprietary crap which can't be replaced). Oh well, it had a good run for about 12 years.

The goal of this system is playing light/older games, re-using as much stuff that is lying around as possible to free clutter and using up as much as possible from various gift cards, some leftover PayPal balance, and leftover reward cards and so on as possible. In short: We wanted to be cheap.

CPU: Ryzen 5 3500X straight out of China (ebay) - $35.
Cooler: Cheap-ass no name 65W cooler that was cheap as chips locally - $9.
Motherboard: Gigabyte A320M-S2H from Eastern Europe (again, ebay) - $40.
Storage: MSI Spatium M450 Gen4 NVMe 500GB (Amazon) - $35.
Memory: 2x16GB DDR4 3200Mhz Kingston FURY BEAST (gotta love those names, eh?). One stick I had already. Another matching one was purchased as open box locally - $30.
Power Supply: Corsair SF600 from my old eGPU setup.
GPU: My old Palit GTX1080Ti GameRock.
Case: Asus Prime AP201 White. It was the only thing bought locally at a high price - $90. We couldn't re-use the old case since it was proprietary HP crap. Could've gotten something way cheaper, but we really wanted a white case to match the room aesthetic, and it was one of the few options available locally that would fit a large GPU. Bonus points for this being able to house my main system once it gets replaced years down the line. Also, it does look great.
Case Fan: 1x120mm that came with the case (white). 1x140mm spare that I had already (black).
Screen: An ancient Dell U2412M (1900x1200, 60hz) that was connected to the previous system.

I think it turned out pretty neat!
1708939840223.png
 
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Just bought this LG 32GN500-B for using on another older rig. I know 32" 1080 is a disaster but its 165hz 1ms, so passable(?)
IMG_0377.JPG
IMG_0378.JPG
IMG_0379.JPG
 
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Just bought this LG 32GN500-B for using on another older rig. I know 32" 1080 is a disaster but its 165hz 1ms, so passable(?)
Nobody can complain as long as you are fine with. It's your money not that of somebody else.
 

dgianstefani

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View attachment 336077

Samsung Galaxy Watch 4. After a buttload of updates. Excuse me hairy arm.
They are nice. I had the OG Galaxy Watch with the rotating bezel, sold it after a while, it functioned well and the bezel was fantastic as a means of control, but needed better tech.

I'm planning to buy the Galaxy Watch titanium/sapphire edition when they finally release one with a solid state battery and good enough efficiency so that a ~week of normal smartwatch use can be achieved, a month or more of standard watch functions. Less is impractical, charging your watch every day isn't possible or convenient. I know you can charge it off your phone's wireless charger but that's clumsy.

That and preferably include a transparent solar array or a movement that generates energy from your arm, like in classic watches, to trickle charge it.

You could even put the solar cells on the band, as there are flexible options.
 
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They are nice. I had the OG Galaxy Watch with the rotating bezel, sold it after a while, it functioned well and the bezel was fantastic as a means of control, but needed better tech.

I'm planning to buy the Galaxy Watch titanium/sapphire edition when they finally release one with a solid state battery and good enough efficiency so that a ~week of normal smartwatch use can be achieved, a month or more of standard watch functions. Less is impractical, charging your watch every day isn't possible or convenient. I know you can charge it off your phone's wireless charger but that's clumsy.

That and preferably include a transparent solar array or a movement that generates energy from your arm, like in classic watches, to trickle charge it.

You could even put the solar cells on the band, as there are flexible options.
Oh yeah, the bezel is amazing. Main reason why I love my Watch 3.
As long as it doesn't die, it'll stay either at my wrist or charging (which is once every second day).
 

de.das.dude

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VR HMD ;_;
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They are nice. I had the OG Galaxy Watch with the rotating bezel, sold it after a while, it functioned well and the bezel was fantastic as a means of control, but needed better tech.

I'm planning to buy the Galaxy Watch titanium/sapphire edition when they finally release one with a solid state battery and good enough efficiency so that a ~week of normal smartwatch use can be achieved, a month or more of standard watch functions. Less is impractical, charging your watch every day isn't possible or convenient. I know you can charge it off your phone's wireless charger but that's clumsy.

That and preferably include a transparent solar array or a movement that generates energy from your arm, like in classic watches, to trickle charge it.

You could even put the solar cells on the band, as there are flexible options.

I dont think we arent near in terms of efficiency (of either the watch or solar panels) for that yet :(
 
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Don't sit too close to it and it will be fine. Treat it a bit like a TV in that regard and it'll serve you well.

I have decided i am going to use it as a bedroom tv with a freeview box connected by HDMI and active speakers/amp using the HPH out from the monitor. The display panel will be better than a cheap 32" TV
 

de.das.dude

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Oh yeah, the bezel is amazing. Main reason why I love my Watch 3.
As long as it doesn't die, it'll stay either at my wrist or charging (which is once every second day).
i cant get mine to last more than a day. what gives
 
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I have decided i am going to use it as a bedroom tv with a freeview box connected by HDMI and active speakers/amp using the HPH out from the monitor. The display panel will be better than a cheap 32" TV
That's a good use for a 32" 1080p panel, but it does not utilize the 165hz capability, unless you have some high framerate content and the means to play them. But that's a minor thing and probably not worth worrying about.
 
Last edited:
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i cant get mine to last more than a day. what gives
Well, my GW3 is a 45mm unit and runs on Tizen. Is yours a smaller one already on Wear OS?
My missus gave up on using her 40mm GW4 because she didn't bother charging it every single day.
 
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de.das.dude

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Well, my GW3 is a 45mm unit and runs on Tizen. Is yours a smaller one already on Wear OS?
My missus gave up on using her 40mm GW4 because she didn't bother charging it every single day.

Yes mine is a 40mm GW4 running WearOS :(

Many apps running?

It was at first when i didnt know how to close them :D that was when it wouldnt even last a whole day. Now it lasts a day and a bit more. for example its almost 8pm here and i am done with my workout for today, i still have around 36% battery remaining. I dont use AOD.
 
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TheLostSwede

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As some of you have seen, I've just moved into our new flat in Sweden and the wife even ended up getting a "smart" light for her home office and she figured I should get one as well, plus we ended up with some smart bulbs in the bedroom, as the light switch is in an odd location.
After all that, I also ended up getting this, since I can't say I'm overly keen on IKEA's light controllers and I might add well use the app, since I normally always have the phone with me.
Kudos to IKEA for a great implementation of their lights though, as even when you switch them off via the wall switch, they remember the previous settings, unless they were already turned off, then they turn on when you flick the wall switch.

PXL_20240226_193853508.jpg
 
Last edited:

dgianstefani

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Audio Device(s) Audeze Maxwell Ultraviolet w/upgrade pads & LCD headband, Galaxy Buds 3 Pro, Razer Nommo Pro
Power Supply SF750 Plat, full transparent custom cables, Sentinel Pro 1500 Online Double Conversion UPS w/Noctua
Mouse Razer Viper Pro V2 8 KHz Mercury White w/Tiger Ice Skates & Pulsar Supergrip tape
Keyboard Wooting 60HE+ module, TOFU-R CNC Alu/Brass, SS Prismcaps W+Jellykey, LekkerV2 mod, TLabs Leath/Suede
Software Windows 11 IoT Enterprise LTSC 24H2
Benchmark Scores Legendary
As some of you have seen, I've just moved into our new flat in Sweden and the wife even up getting a "smart" light for her home office and she figured I should get one as well, plus we ended up with some smart bulbs in the bedroom, as the light switch is in an odd location.
After all that, I also ended up getting this, since I can't say I'm overly keen on IKEA's light controllers and I might add well use the app, since I normally always have the phone with me.
Kudos to IKEA for a great implementation of their lights though, as even when you switch them off via the wall switch, they remember the previous settings, unless they were already turned off, then they turn on when you flick the wall switch.

View attachment 336470
Nice!

Are these local network smarts or do they require an internet connection?
 

TheLostSwede

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Nice!

Are these local network smarts or do they require an internet connection?
I believe they require an internet connection like most of these things do. However, the lights don't, as long as you have a remote for them, as the remote connects directly to the lights, without the need of any other hardware. I've only connected up one light to the controller and app so far.
 
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That's a good use for a 32" 1080p panel, but it does not utilize the 165hz capability, unless you have some high framerate content and the means to play them. But that's a minor thing and probably not worth worrying about.

I know i won't use the high refresh, but it does not matter, it will still be a nice display for the TV signal, and the freeview box might be capable of more than 60hz, as the display will do 144 via HDMI.
 
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Low-budget system shopping! We're not in the US here, so things are more expensive and way trickier to source if you want to remain cheap. This leads to interesting part selections when you're trying to maximize your bang-for-the-buck.

And so, the spare parts (plus) build is now in the house, replacing an i7 2600K system (a really ancient Elite 8200 MT) that was still seeing use here, but unfortunately died (and is completely full of proprietary crap which can't be replaced). Oh well, it had a good run for about 12 years.

The goal of this system is playing light/older games, re-using as much stuff that is lying around as possible to free clutter and using up as much as possible from various gift cards, some leftover PayPal balance, and leftover reward cards and so on as possible. In short: We wanted to be cheap.

CPU: Ryzen 5 3500X straight out of China (ebay) - $35.
Cooler: Cheap-ass no name 65W cooler that was cheap as chips locally - $9.
Motherboard: Gigabyte A320M-S2H from Eastern Europe (again, ebay) - $40.
Storage: MSI Spatium M450 Gen4 NVMe 500GB (Amazon) - $35.
Memory: 2x16GB DDR4 3200Mhz Kingston FURY BEAST (gotta love those names, eh?). One stick I had already. Another matching one was purchased as open box locally - $30.
Power Supply: Corsair SF600 from my old eGPU setup.
GPU: My old Palit GTX1080Ti GameRock.
Case: Asus Prime AP201 White. It was the only thing bought locally at a high price - $90. We couldn't re-use the old case since it was proprietary HP crap. Could've gotten something way cheaper, but we really wanted a white case to match the room aesthetic, and it was one of the few options available locally that would fit a large GPU. Bonus points for this being able to house my main system once it gets replaced years down the line. Also, it does look great.
Case Fan: 1x120mm that came with the case (white). 1x140mm spare that I had already (black).
Screen: An ancient Dell U2412M (1900x1200, 60hz) that was connected to the previous system.

I think it turned out pretty neat!
View attachment 336372
Very respectable system for what you paid. Plenty of fun to be had there!

I know 32" 1080 is a disaster but its 165hz 1ms, so passable(?)
Why would it be a disaster? Seems like a winner to me! :toast:
 
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Very respectable system for what you paid. Plenty of fun to be had there!


Why would it be a disaster? Seems like a winner to me! :toast:

The pixels at 1080 on a 32" screen are the size of a housebrick and pixel density is about 5
 
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Joined
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System Name BigRed
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Display(s) Dell s3422dwg 34" 3440x1440p 144hz ultrawide
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Audio Device(s) Logitech Z5450/KEF uniQ speakers/Bowers and Wilkins P7 Headphones
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Mouse Logitech G604 lightspeed wireless
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