PSU making a clicking sound, PC wont turn on

[LethaR]

Hello guys. Just to clarify im not exactly new to pc building, in fact, ive built my last 3 pcs, but never ran into this problem.
Basically i switched from the o11 dynamic and a b650 atx mobo to the new corsair 2500d and the msi b650m project zero micro atx mobo. I also bought a new psu, a sfx one, for having more space to cable management in the back, this new psu is the CoolerMaster V SFX 1100W Platinum (which happens to not have a switch). So i built the pc, swapping the 7900x from the old mobo to the new one, installed the m.2, the ram, applied thermal paste, the cpu cooler... everything went fine, building in this case and using the reverse connectors of the project zero mobo was pretty easy and straight forward. Moment of truth, i connected the psu: nothing. Just a clicking sound, the fans spin for like half a second, no rgb, just the rgb of the ram sticks lights up and it stays like that, nothing more happens. Tried oppening the case and confirming everything is connected and nothing is lose, tried with only one ram stick, then the other, tried with another power cable, nothing. Any ideas?

 

[Hyderz]

sounds like psu DOA ( dead on arrival ), contact the manufacturer if you unsure how to move foward... most likely they will rma your psu if its deem faulty
now if new psu comes and still wont turn on, move onto the next culprit... i suspect the motherboard...

 

[LethaR]

sounds like psu DOA ( dead on arrival ), contact the manufacturer if you unsure how to move foward... most likely they will rma your psu if its deem faulty
now if new psu comes and still wont turn on, move onto the next culprit... i suspect the motherboard...

i will try using my other psu, which i still have and been using without any problem for years, to see if the pc boots up. I will also try to test the new psu (jump start it) to confirm if its dead or not. Just to know, when you say the next thing that could be the problem would be the motherboard, what do you mean? can the mobo be dead on arrival to? even if the ram sticks light up?

 

[arbiter]

So dead PSU isn't for sure. If you turn off the switch and back and hear the same click sound when push power it could mean something is grounding out and popping the internal current fuse. I had same click sound years ago when my gtx1080 died. Once i removed the 1080 pc booted so you could just have something grounding or other bad hardware.

 

[Ruru]

i will try using my other psu, which i still have and been using without any problem for years, to see if the pc boots up. I will also try to test the new psu (jump start it) to confirm if its dead or not. Just to know, when you say the next thing that could be the problem would be the motherboard, what do you mean? can the mobo be dead on arrival to? even if the ram sticks light up?

Jumpstarting may still not confirm its state as it may turn on without load but may fail with components on.

Just like I did with a crappy "500W" cheap PSU few years ago.

 

[LethaR]

So dead PSU isn't for sure. If you turn off the switch and back and hear the same click sound when push power it could mean something is grounding out and popping the internal current fuse. I had same click sound years ago when my gtx1080 died. Once i removed the 1080 pc booted so you could just have something grounding or other bad hardware.

this psu does not have a switch, so i assume thats like always being in "on"? ill try booting it up without the gpu, but im pretty sure thats not the problem, i mean, just the psu and the mobo are new, the rest of my hardware, including the 4080, were working perfectly fine literally yesterday before taking the pc apart to build it in the new case

Jumpstarting may still not confirm its state as it may turn on without load but may fail with components on.

Just like I did with a crappy "500W" cheap PSU few years ago.

maybe, but this is not a crappy and cheap psu, is a 1100w 80 plus platinum one... id could be dead on arrival but im pretty sure if its not dead it should not beware like a crappy one

 

[Hyderz]

maybe, but this is not a crappy and cheap psu, is a 1100w 80 plus platinum one... id could be dead on arrival but im pretty sure if its not dead it should not beware like a crappy one

think of lightbulb, they are mass produced and bound to have a few duds... even cars have problems brand new...
so its not out of the ordinary that a new product comes faulty...

 

[arbiter]

this psu does not have a switch, so i assume thats like always being in "on"? ill try booting it up without the gpu, but im pretty sure thats not the problem, i mean, just the psu and the mobo are new, the rest of my hardware, including the 4080, were working perfectly fine literally yesterday before taking the pc apart to build it in the new case

What i ment by switch there is a hard power toggle switch on back of least most PSU's. like one in yellow box

 

[Ruru]

maybe, but this is not a crappy and cheap psu, is a 1100w 80 plus platinum one... id could be dead on arrival but im pretty sure if its not dead it should not beware like a crappy one

Ratings doesn't tell everything but I still think that it's a DOA one. :/

 

[LethaR]

What i ment by switch there is a hard power toggle switch on back of least most PSU's. like one in yellow box
View attachment 346565

yeah, i know man, i told you i am not that new to pc building. As i said multiple times, this psu does NOT have an on/off switch.

 

[AleXXX666]

Ratings doesn't tell everything but I still think that it's a DOA one. :/

ratings still matter, of "quality" inside the PSU, you know, some cheapo no name psu could die of short-circuit wherever quality one will protect itself and the system.

 

[LethaR]

ratings still matter, of "quality" inside the PSU, you know, some cheapo no name psu could die of short-circuit wherever quality one will protect itself and the system.

thank you, i neeed this xd

 

[Ruru]

ratings still matter, of "quality" inside the PSU, you know, some cheapo no name psu could die of short-circuit wherever quality one will protect itself and the system.

I still remember seeing some units with crappy Chinese caps with a Gold rating. Not every model but still.. :/

I prefer 100% Japanese capacitor PSUs myself.

 

[LethaR]

I still remember seeing some units with crappy Chinese caps with a Gold rating. Not every model but still.. :/

I prefer 100% Japanese capacitor PSUs myself.

this is a 100% Japanese capacitor psu, its literally the latest coolermaster psu series, atx 3.0, full modular, 1100w on a sfx (non -L) format, 80 plus platinum... its a pretty good quality psu... ill test it when i get home just to know

 

[Ruru]

this is a 100% Japanese capacitor psu, its literally the latest coolermaster psu series, atx 3.0, full modular, 1100w on a sfx (non -L) format, 80 plus platinum... its a pretty good quality psu... ill test it when i get home just to know

Well, if it's dead, I hope the RMA returned one works fine.

 

[Bill_Bright]

this is a 100% japcap psu

First, "jap" when referring to Japan or the Japanese people is considered a derogatory racial slur and certainly is inappropriate here.

Second, just because a component is made in Japan, that does not make it superior, nor does the fact a component is made in China automatically make it inferior. There are many Japanese products that can easily be categorized as inferior just as there are many made in China of superior quality.

To claim a PSU or other component has Japanese made capacitors was simply marketing hype and these days, is (inappropriately, IMO) carried over from many years ago when faulty electrolyte materials corroded, often resulting in a buildup of internal gas pressures causing bulging, leaking, or in extreme cases, exploding capacitors.

Third, the vast majority of those faulty capacitors came from Taiwan - an independent country and is NOT even a part of China!

Jumpstarting may still not confirm its state as it may turn on without load but may fail with components on.

This is very true. But it was not turning on before so if the paper-clip test allows the PSU to turn on, when before it didn't, that at least suggests the PSU is "probably" fine.

That said, this scenario on one were using a decent PSU Tester can really come in handy. No fumbling with bent paperclips, no risk of shorting the wrong pins, and these models give an actual read out of the voltages (as opposed to cheaper testers that only have LED indicator lights). And these tester have a small (typically 10Ω) dummy load to put on the supply.

Note, however, that none of these testers test for ripple and other anomalies that affect computer stability and they only provide a small dummy load, not a variety of "realistic" loads. So while better than nothing, using one of these testers is not a conclusive test either.

To properly and conclusively test a power supply unit, it must be tested under a variety of realistic loads then analyzed for excessive ripple and other anomalies. This is done by a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or a dedicated power supply “analyzer” - sophisticated (and expensive!) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results. Therefore, conclusively testing a power supply is done in properly equipped electronics repair facilities. Many smaller shops often don't have the resources to buy the necessary test equipment.

This is why swapping in a known good power supply, a tried-and-true troubleshooting method used by amateurs and professionals alike, is typically the best and easiest alternative for most users.

 

[Chrispy_]

Breadboard it.
Spinning and immediately cutting out sounds like a ground short or mis-pin in one of the modular cables. One of the PSU protections is cutting in.

Minimum components and modular cables, test the PSU and minimum platform (so CPU/board/1xRAM/cooler) outside of the case, just sitting on a piece of cardboard or motherboard box. Paper, wood, cardboard - doesn't matter as long as it's not on a conductive anti-static bag or other metal surface.

You'll possibly need to clear the CMOS if you'd previously disabled the onboard graphics of your 7900X

 

[LethaR]

Hello again guys, thanks for all the replies and possible solutions. Got home and started testing. First thing i did was swapping the new psu for my old one. Surprise surprise, the pc booted up and everything looks phenomenal. I didnt even try to test the new psu to see if is dead or not, i simply requested the warranty process. Should i even bother to test the psu? knowing that i hadnt to test any other component or conexion and the pc booted up fine, i think its pretty obvious that the new psu is faulty

 

[STSMiner]

Pfft !

CoolerMaster V SFX 1100W Platinum with no "on" / "off" switch !

 

[dirtyferret]

Moment of truth, i connected the psu: nothing. Just a clicking sound, the fans spin for like half a second

Surprise surprise, the pc booted up and everything looks phenomenal.

Your initial PSU was damaged in shipping, send it back. It happens, has nothing to do with build quality although one could argue about drop test quality.

I still remember seeing some units with crappy Chinese caps with a Gold rating

"japanese cap" is basically a marketing term with little definition outside of some kind of correlation with Nippon even if made in the PRC. Gold rating may as well be a marketing term and has nothing to do quality other than possibly passing a test.

 

[Veseleil]

Pfft !

CoolerMaster V SFX 1100W Platinum with no "on" / "off" switch !

That feature is a waste with majority of SFF cases.

 

[Bill_Bright]

That feature is a waste with majority of SFF cases.

No it's not. What does the fact it is SFF have to do with this? Absolutely nothing!

Being able to simply flip a master power switch on the back of the PSU, if nothing else, is way more convenient than pulling a power cord out of an outlet or inserting the power cord back in.

Everyone can "easily" and "safely" flip a switch without even looking. Pulling a power cord, maybe. But inserting it safely without looking?

And that is not even talking about potential rat's nests full of dust bunnies that are in the back of many people's desks.

 

[dirtyferret]

That feature is a waste with majority of SFF cases.

No it's not. What does the fact it is SFF have to do with this? Absolutely nothing!

it was a design decision by CM due to lack of room, not saying I agree with the decision as Bill makes a good point.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Lack of room? Nah! Unless you are talking about the SFF that use a power block like laptops, there is plenty of room. There are all kinds power switches with some that take up very little space.

CM did it to save a few pennies - which surely they didn't bother to pass along to the consumer.

SF Series™ SF450 — 450 Watt 80 PLUS® Gold Certified High Performance SFX PSU (corsair.com)

SilverStone SX700-PT PSU review: Pricey and reliable power delivery in a compact package | Windows Central

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[Veseleil]

it was a design decision by CM due to lack of room, not saying I agree with the decision as Bill makes a good point.

Do I really need to explain obvious things? Draw some schematics or something? Please consider that Bill is on my ignore list and don't take the next words personally.
Majority of SFF cases have a PSU AC input away from reach, and the extension cable is used. So what's the point of having a switch in there?

People are so easily triggered nowadays. If I wanted to argue (and the English not being native to me prevents me from doing that on a decent level), I could exploit that fact to oblivion.