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Weird cold boot issue on Crosshair Hero X670E

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Yes, tried that, the RAM can run at up to 6400Mhz on this system, i've had it running stable at those speeds in the past. I lowered them a while back as I was having a couple of crashing issues to the EXPO rated speeds but yes, since this has been happening more regular I have tried reducing the speeds. In fact, i've updated the BIOS about 3 times so far, twice this month as there was a new BIOS a week or so back, if that and the issue still presents after the updates. During those updates the BIOS is completely wiped and back to stock settings which I then have to set up again for my system which at the moment is only a basic setup with settings I know run perfectly fine and should have no problem at all running. The PDE & MCR are both enabled in the RAM's BIOS settings also, I have to enable MCR after initial memory training else it takes 2-3 minutes sometimes to even display the BIOS screen when powered on due in part I think to the slow memory training each and every boot.
Well, if you're stuck at POST, then disabling MCR and putting up with the 2-3 minute long boot times might be your only option. I know 64 GB 6000 MHz doesn't sound exotic, but it kind of is on AM5, unfortunately.

EDIT:- The board I got in replacement is the Asrock PG lightning X670E which I managed to grab for £80 because the PCIe 5 slot 'apparently' has some damage and it doesn't run at full speed according to the seller. When I inspected the slot in the pic & in person now though it doesn't look damaged apart from the shielding is very slightly bent, no signs of lifted pins on the board or damage in the socket so i'm wondering if he thought it was damaged because GPU's run at varying PCIe speeds depending on usage plus there is no PCIe 5.0 GPUs out yet either so i'm questioning his testing methods as I can't see how he could tell plus he said it works perfectly fine otherwise! I'm not bothered about that slot anyway if it is damaged, there's 2 other perfectly fine PCIe 4.0 slots below it I can use as I have my GPU horizontal on a riser cable anyway
By not running at full speed, he could have meant that some of the data pins are damaged, and the slot only runs at x8 or x4 speed. If that's the case, then you're gonna get half or quarter of the maximum theoretical bandwidth regardless of PCI-e version.

Edit: You have to be a proper caveman to damage a PCI-e slot, so with a seller like that, I'd have other concerns, too.
 
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h4x0rm1k3

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So about 66 Pounds then, a rucksack basically

Something worth trying, cmos battery
Wouldn't updating the BIOS do basically the same thing? Because when I update them they're always stock settings and no saved profiles etc once they've updated so I have to set it up again every time.
Well, if you're stuck at POST, then disabling MCR and putting up with the 2-3 minute long boot times might be your only option. I know 64 GB 6000 MHz doesn't sound exotic, but it kind of is on AM5, unfortunately.
The PC isn't stuck at post, it won't turn on at all by power button so it can't post anyway! As soon as it does manage to power on though it boots perfectly fine, no other issues at all. I'd put up with the boot times if it was that but it definitely isn't. The only issue I had with post is that when MCR was disabled it'd take 2-3 minutes to boot while it re-did it's training or whatever it's doing, when that's enabled, which then auto enables PDE, my post times are normal and i'm at the desktop within 20-30 seconds or so.
 
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The PC isn't stuck at post, it won't turn on at all by power button so it can't post anyway! As soon as it does manage to power on though it boots perfectly fine, no other issues at all. I'd put up with the boot times if it was that but it definitely isn't. The only issue I had with post is that when MCR was disabled it'd take 2-3 minutes to boot while it re-did it's training or whatever it's doing, when that's enabled, which then auto enables PDE, my post times are normal and i'm at the desktop within 20-30 seconds or so.
You said your RGB lights up, which means it gets power. Do your fans start spinning, too?
 
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OP is using the ROG THOR 1200W Power Supply
:oops: Sorry. I missed that.

Relays are funny. They just go bad, it happens
It happens often in electronics and is a big reason why many devices have moved away from electromechanical relays (EMRs). EMRs have contacts that can become contaminated with dirt and debris. Even in sealed EMRs, they the contacts can become carboned up from arcing. Plus, EMRs are relatively slow. And since they have moving parts, they can, and do wear out. EMRs have also been known to produce unwanted EMI/RFI. :(

It is because there are no moving parts in pure electronic relays, they are called SSRs (solid state relays) in the industry. Their biggest downside is they are expensive compared to electromechanical relays.

Way WAY back in my early days maintaining air traffic control radio transmitters, a relay contact burnishing tool was one of the first tools we reached for when troubleshooting. TIP: A fresh clean dollar bill is a great contact cleaner. :) We were really happy when SSRs came about.

For good read and why SSRs are the superior choice, see Solid State vs. Electromechanical Relays.
 
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:oops: Sorry. I missed that.


It happens often in electronics and is a big reason why many devices have moved away from electromechanical relays (EMRs). EMRs have contacts that can become contaminated with dirt and debris. Even in sealed EMRs, they the contacts can become carboned up from arcing. Plus, EMRs are relatively slow. And since they have moving parts, they can, and do wear out. EMRs have also been known to produce unwanted EMI/RFI. :(

It is because there are no moving parts in pure electronic relays, they are called SSRs (solid state relays) in the industry. Their biggest downside is they are expensive compared to electromechanical relays.

Way WAY back in my early days maintaining air traffic control radio transmitters, a relay contact burnishing tool was one of the first tools we reached for when troubleshooting. TIP: A fresh clean dollar bill is a great contact cleaner. :) We were really happy when SSRs came about.

For good read and why SSRs are the superior choice, see Solid State vs. Electromechanical Relays.
All good Sir!
SS relays are really nice. PSU makers don't usually use them for the exact reason you mentioned, the darn pricing. I can't say I have come across a (Desktop) PC PS unit that had/has one though. Perhaps on some really lower power systems, like laptops, these types of SSR's are being used for sure. Never hear a click on my laptop lol. I have one that's all of 6w cpu N4120 I think the part number is. So SSR is perfect for the application. Fits in a small place, no mechanical parts.

It could be possible the 1200W thor actually uses both mechanical and Solid State relays being it has that nifty display and lighting installed on it, of course making it a really neat feature to display the wattage being used. I'd wager the SSR would be used on the lighting and display circuit over the load circuit converting 120vac to 12/5vdc. Mechanical relays are pretty reliable in the home desktop PC setting because there's almost always atmosphere conditioning in which humidity levels are low enough to prevent oxidization of the contacts. (My reason of guessing why they use mechanical relays in PSU's)

Will definitely read the link, and thank you for it!
 
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I had one of those in the 1000W variety. For some reason one day it decided to send too much power down one of the PCIe lanes and burned the connector on the PSU. PSUs can be funny. I also had a HX1200I (old one) and it would pass every test but cause random shutdowns in Gaming. Turns out the PSU was no longer capable of providing the stable power that was needed. I changed the PSU and have not had an issue like that since.
 
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SS relays are really nice. PSU makers don't usually use them for the exact reason you mentioned, the darn pricing. I
Ummm, that is not worded accurately. As I already noted, many already do use them. Sorry you don't want to accept that.

Yes, they cost more but they are many times more reliable. This is important, at least with the better PSUs that typically have 5, 10 even 12 year warranties. And remember, these power supply makers are buying them in lots of many 1000s, if not millions so we're still talking pennies, not many dollars more.

And yes, it would be rare to find an electromechanical relay that was not sealed. However, they are not hermetically sealed as you are suggesting. That would price them out of the range of being cost effective. They are sealed to keep dust and other contaminates out, but not "air tight". They are like hard drives that little, filtered vent holes that allow for changes in atmospheric air pressures to pass through (at least those HDs not filled with helium). And that is good enough since PC power supplies are designed and intended to work indoors.

The problem with electromechanical relays is twofold. (1), they use simple make/break contact (like pressing your thumb and forefinger together) to make and break the circuit. Any type of "switch" like that has the potential disadvantage of the voltage arcing across the gap when the make/break speeds are not fast and solid. And (2), being electromechanical and reliant on a spring to function, like all springs, they lose tension over time making them weaker and slower. Then see #1. Another problem with getting weaker is when signaled to "make" contact, instead of a solid make and hold until released, the contacts may bounce a couple times. Not good as the circuit state bounces but also that increases the possibility of more arcing. Arcing leaves tiny carbon deposits and can result is tiny pits forming in the contacts. Again, not good. I note the primary ingredient in many resistors is carbon.

It could be possible the 1200W thor actually uses both mechanical and Solid State relays
That seems like a waste of money and real estate to me. It is easy and cheap to simply add more contacts to one relay than to have two relays. Not to mention the logistics costs for ordering and maintaining inventory for 2 parts is essentially double the logistics cost of 1 part.

For some reason one day it decided to send too much power down one of the PCIe lanes and burned the connector on the PSU.
Ummm, not likely. Power supplies do not "send" power. The connected devices "pull" power from the supply.

To illustrate, if your computer (CPU, motherboard, RAM, drives, graphics) demand 300 watts from the supply, the supply will deliver 300 watts regardless if the PSU is a 350W supply, a 500W supply or a 1000W supply. And those supplies will only demand from the wall outlet that same 300 watts, plus a little extra due to supply inefficiencies.

So, assuming those 3 supplies are all decent supplies and are all 90% efficient with that 300 watt load, each of them will demand from the wall ~333W (333 x .9 = 299.7W).

What is more likely to have happened is there was a fault in your motherboard or the connector creating a short that was not supposed to be there. Ohm's Law (I = V/R) says if the voltage remains constant and the resistance drops, then current must go up. And when current goes up, heat typically does to.
 
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Ummm, that is not worded accurately. As I already noted, many already do use them. Sorry you don't want to accept that.

Yes, they cost more but they are many times more reliable. This is important, at least with the better PSUs that typically have 5, 10 even 12 year warranties. And remember, these power supply makers are buying them in lots of many 1000s, if not millions so we're still talking pennies, not many dollars more.

And yes, it would be rare to find an electromechanical relay that was not sealed. However, they are not hermetically sealed as you are suggesting. That would price them out of the range of being cost effective. They are sealed to keep dust and other contaminates out, but not "air tight". They are like hard drives that little, filtered vent holes that allow for changes in atmospheric air pressures to pass through (at least those HDs not filled with helium). And that is good enough since PC power supplies are designed and intended to work indoors.

The problem with electromechanical relays is twofold. (1), they use simple make/break contact (like pressing your thumb and forefinger together) to make and break the circuit. Any type of "switch" like that has the potential disadvantage of the voltage arcing across the gap when the make/break speeds are not fast and solid. And (2), being electromechanical and reliant on a spring to function, like all springs, they lose tension over time making them weaker and slower. Then see #1. Another problem with getting weaker is when signaled to "make" contact, instead of a solid make and hold until released, the contacts may bounce a couple times. Not good as the circuit state bounces but also that increases the possibility of more arcing. Arcing leaves tiny carbon deposits and can result is tiny pits forming in the contacts. Again, not good. I note the primary ingredient in many resistors is carbon.


That seems like a waste of money and real estate to me. It is easy and cheap to simply add more contacts to one relay than to have two relays. Not to mention the logistics costs for ordering and maintaining inventory for 2 parts is essentially double the logistics cost of 1 part.


Ummm, not likely. Power supplies do not "send" power. The connected devices "pull" power from the supply.

To illustrate, if your computer (CPU, motherboard, RAM, drives, graphics) demand 300 watts from the supply, the supply will deliver 300 watts regardless if the PSU is a 350W supply, a 500W supply or a 1000W supply. And those supplies will only demand from the wall outlet that same 300 watts, plus a little extra due to supply inefficiencies.

So, assuming those 3 supplies are all decent supplies and are all 90% efficient with that 300 watt load, each of them will demand from the wall ~333W (333 x .9 = 299.7W).

What is more likely to have happened is there was a fault in your motherboard or the connector creating a short that was not supposed to be there. Ohm's Law (I = V/R) says if the voltage remains constant and the resistance drops, then current must go up. And when current goes up, heat typically does to.
So you're saying a power supply is designed to convert power? We are measuring the loss during the conversion at 90% efficiency at X load. It's not a measurement of the PSU power capability which is measured in total peak watt output (the advertised wattage)?? That's what you are telling me correct? (EDIT: I just realized he quoted someone else there too...lol)

Yes, mechanical relays can fail. I understand that. All I was after earlier was proof that "most PSU's don't use mechanical relays", but I do appreciate you taking the time to help me brush up electrical designs and such. I have not disagreed that a mechanical relay are not prone to failure, which I had mentioned earlier, or ever disagreed that an SSR would be a better relay. I actually agree to all this and appreciate the chat and your input.

So we can agree that most power supplies either Have a mechanical relay or Not. With respect of course.
 
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Ummm, that is not worded accurately. As I already noted, many already do use them. Sorry you don't want to accept that.

Yes, they cost more but they are many times more reliable. This is important, at least with the better PSUs that typically have 5, 10 even 12 year warranties. And remember, these power supply makers are buying them in lots of many 1000s, if not millions so we're still talking pennies, not many dollars more.

And yes, it would be rare to find an electromechanical relay that was not sealed. However, they are not hermetically sealed as you are suggesting. That would price them out of the range of being cost effective. They are sealed to keep dust and other contaminates out, but not "air tight". They are like hard drives that little, filtered vent holes that allow for changes in atmospheric air pressures to pass through (at least those HDs not filled with helium). And that is good enough since PC power supplies are designed and intended to work indoors.

The problem with electromechanical relays is twofold. (1), they use simple make/break contact (like pressing your thumb and forefinger together) to make and break the circuit. Any type of "switch" like that has the potential disadvantage of the voltage arcing across the gap when the make/break speeds are not fast and solid. And (2), being electromechanical and reliant on a spring to function, like all springs, they lose tension over time making them weaker and slower. Then see #1. Another problem with getting weaker is when signaled to "make" contact, instead of a solid make and hold until released, the contacts may bounce a couple times. Not good as the circuit state bounces but also that increases the possibility of more arcing. Arcing leaves tiny carbon deposits and can result is tiny pits forming in the contacts. Again, not good. I note the primary ingredient in many resistors is carbon.


That seems like a waste of money and real estate to me. It is easy and cheap to simply add more contacts to one relay than to have two relays. Not to mention the logistics costs for ordering and maintaining inventory for 2 parts is essentially double the logistics cost of 1 part.


Ummm, not likely. Power supplies do not "send" power. The connected devices "pull" power from the supply.

To illustrate, if your computer (CPU, motherboard, RAM, drives, graphics) demand 300 watts from the supply, the supply will deliver 300 watts regardless if the PSU is a 350W supply, a 500W supply or a 1000W supply. And those supplies will only demand from the wall outlet that same 300 watts, plus a little extra due to supply inefficiencies.

So, assuming those 3 supplies are all decent supplies and are all 90% efficient with that 300 watt load, each of them will demand from the wall ~333W (333 x .9 = 299.7W).

What is more likely to have happened is there was a fault in your motherboard or the connector creating a short that was not supposed to be there. Ohm's Law (I = V/R) says if the voltage remains constant and the resistance drops, then current must go up. And when current goes up, heat typically does to.
I have no real idea what happened but I know what you are saying regardless Asus refused to honour my RMA anyway. I only buy Deepcool or Corsair HX series now.
 
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I have no real idea what happened but I know what you are saying regardless Asus refused to honour my RMA anyway. I only buy Deepcool or Corsair HX series now.
Asus is like the government, you gotta try more than once. :)
 
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Asus is like the government, you gotta try more than once. :)
Funnily enough one of my first posts was a rant of my experience using the X370 Prime and what a debacle that RMA process was. I laughed when they sent me an invoice for the plastic stand offs. It was $250.
 
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So you're saying a power supply is designed to convert power?
Huh? I said no such thing? How the hell did you get that out of what I said and you quoted. Please read what I said again.

HOWEVER, though I never said that, OF COURSE converting power is exactly what a computer power supply does!! So your question becomes even more bizarre. :kookoo:

Computer power supplies convert mains AC (120/240VAC) voltage to DC (+3.3VDC, +5VDC and +12VDC) voltages.

We are measuring the loss during the conversion at 90% efficiency at X load.
No we are not measuring that. I was just using that to illustrate that supplies deliver what is demanded of them, not what they are capable of providing. I am assuming, of course, the supply is big enough to meet the demands. An underpowered PSU is a different issue.

I added efficiency in there to show the supply will demand from the wall a little more than the computer demands from the supply. I added that because I knew if didn't someone would have a cow over it.
 
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Huh? I said no such thing? How the hell did you get that out of what I said and you quoted. Please read what I said again.

HOWEVER, though I never said that, OF COURSE converting power is exactly what a computer power supply does!! So your question becomes even more bizarre. :kookoo:

Computer power supplies convert mains AC (120/240VAC) voltage to DC (+3.3VDC, +5VDC and +12VDC) voltages.


No we are not measuring that. I was just using that to illustrate that supplies deliver what is demanded of them, not what they are capable of providing. I am assuming, of course, the supply is big enough to meet the demands. An underpowered PSU is a different issue.

I added efficiency in there to show the supply will demand from the wall a little more than the computer demands from the supply. I added that because I knew if didn't someone would have a cow over it.
Indeed. Many of your comments are bizzarro, avoiding the agreement that most PSU's actually use a mechanical relay.

So...

Most PSU's have mechanical relays. No? Evidence? None? nothing more to talk about.

Funnily enough one of my first posts was a rant of my experience using the X370 Prime and what a debacle that RMA process was. I laughed when they sent me an invoice for the plastic stand offs. It was $250.
I've heard a few stories like this about Asus through the years. So I go to best buy a lot and purchase there. Get their warranty in store and I don't have to deal with Asus. I've been grateful enough to never need to RMA through Asus, knocking on woods.
 
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I'm not bothered about that slot anyway if it is damaged, there's 2 other perfectly fine PCIe 4.0 slots below it I can use as I have my GPU horizontal on a riser cable anyway

The PCIe4 slots only run at x1 and x4 on this board
 
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Indeed. Many of your comments are bizzarro, avoiding the agreement that most PSU's actually use a mechanical relay.

So...

Most PSU's have mechanical relays. No? Evidence? None? nothing more to talk about.


I've heard a few stories like this about Asus through the years. So I go to best buy a lot and purchase there. Get their warranty in store and I don't have to deal with Asus. I've been grateful enough to never need to RMA through Asus, knocking on woods.
One of the good things about Gamer's Nexus was their Newegg exposure. Before that returning anything to Newegg was like pulling teeth. Karma does work though as while doing that I killed my 7900XTX returned it and saved $400 getting the 7900XT.
 
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Most PSU's have mechanical relays. No? Evidence? None? nothing more to talk about.
That works both ways, bud. Remember this began when you came in with post #8 telling the OP if he didn't hear the relay, it was going bad and to RMA the PSU with no evidence to support your claim his PSU even has a mechanical relay.

Frankly, I don't care. As seen through the link in my sig, I've been an electronic tech longer than most here have been alive. And I've been building and repairing computers since before the ATX Form Factor even existed. I have heard many supplies click and I have many be silent.

Arguing over whether is it most, many, or all is petty and a waste of time. The facts are, SSRs are used in many power supplies for computers, TVs, audio amps, RF communications devices and more. We stopped using Corsair PSUs in our builds here long ago when they switched to cheaper OEMs to cut production costs. But it would not surprise me that they use them in their supplies. I cannot and will not attempt to speak for all other makers.

You can keep defending their use, if that is your desire. Just don't pretend as a class of relays, they are better or even just as good. They are inferior in almost every way - as noted in the link I did provide.

The point here remains the same - unless YOU, ShrimpBrime can show evidence the OP's specific PSU has an electromechanical relay that is normally audible, the OP should not assume his is bad if he does not hear a click when booting.

Time to move on.
 

h4x0rm1k3

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You said your RGB lights up, which means it gets power. Do your fans start spinning, too?
Thing is, i'm not 100% certain on those events. I'm almost sure the motherboards RGB lighting panel was lit at 1st when I 1st came in and tried to turn it on. Then at some point I noticed that it had turned off which it shouldn't but the other lights on the power & flex key buttons were still lit up so I didn't think much of it. It was when I removed the 24 pin, bridged the 2 pins to test if the PSU would fire up which it did and then I reconnected the 24 pin to the board, it was then I noticed the RGB lit up again and straight away the PC fired up when I pressed the start button on the board as i'd disconnected the power/reset ones at that point.
I had one of those in the 1000W variety. For some reason one day it decided to send too much power down one of the PCIe lanes and burned the connector on the PSU. PSUs can be funny. I also had a HX1200I (old one) and it would pass every test but cause random shutdowns in Gaming. Turns out the PSU was no longer capable of providing the stable power that was needed. I changed the PSU and have not had an issue like that since.
Very possible you didn't quite have your PCIe power plugs plugged in right which caused shorting which is what caused the connector to burn, i've done it myself don't worry, it's easily done and easily missed, even more so if you're using the newer connectors for the RTX4090's etc as they're prone for not snapping in fully. Just make sure that all connectors snap in to place in future and make sure they're seated properly and you shouldn't get that problem again.
The PCIe4 slots only run at x1 and x4 on this board
That's a bit of a sh**er then because on the Asrock site it says is has 2x PCIe4.0 X16, the lying little sh&&ebags! I just checked the bottom of the motherboard too and you're 100% right, 1 slot is 1x and the other 4x! Ah well, i'm more hopeful now then that the seller made a big mistake in his testing methods and there isn't an issue with it or it at least runs PCIe4.0 X8 or X16 because they did say it worked still, just not at PCIe5.0 speeds but I can't see how he can test that with no PCIe5.0 GPU's on the market?
 
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Thing is, i'm not 100% certain on those events. I'm almost sure the motherboards RGB lighting panel was lit at 1st when I 1st came in and tried to turn it on. Then at some point I noticed that it had turned off which it shouldn't but the other lights on the power & flex key buttons were still lit up so I didn't think much of it. It was when I removed the 24 pin, bridged the 2 pins to test if the PSU would fire up which it did and then I reconnected the 24 pin to the board, it was then I noticed the RGB lit up again and straight away the PC fired up when I pressed the start button on the board as i'd disconnected the power/reset ones at that point.
I asked because if the fans are spinning and there's every indication that the PC is on except for an image on the monitor, then you're stuck in a boot loop, which is most probably due to unstable memory settings. If literally nothing happens upon pressing the power button, then it's a PSU or maybe motherboard issue.

That's a bit of a sh**er then because on the Asrock site it says is has 2x PCIe4.0 X16, the lying little sh&&ebags! I just checked the bottom of the motherboard too and you're 100% right, 1 slot is 1x and the other 4x! Ah well, i'm more hopeful now then that the seller made a big mistake in his testing methods and there isn't an issue with it or it at least runs PCIe4.0 X8 or X16 because they did say it worked still, just not at PCIe5.0 speeds but I can't see how he can test that with no PCIe5.0 GPU's on the market?
X16 slot usually means a physical x16 size, but electrically, it can be very different. Motherboard makers usually indicate that on their websites with extra info such as: "PCI-e x16 slot (x4 mode)".
 

h4x0rm1k3

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I asked because if the fans are spinning and there's every indication that the PC is on except for an image on the monitor, then you're stuck in a boot loop, which is most probably due to unstable memory settings. If literally nothing happens upon pressing the power button, then it's a PSU or maybe motherboard issue.


X16 slot usually means a physical x16 size, but electrically, it can be very different. Motherboard makers usually indicate that on their websites with extra info such as: "PCI-e x16 slot (x4 mode)".
Yes, straight up lies on their website then as it specifically states 1x PCIe5.0x16 & 2x PCIe4.0X16 + 1xPCIe4.0X1. No problem anyway as he said it did still work with the GPU in that slot but ran at PCIe4.0 speeds which obviously it will do as there are no PCIe5.0 GPU's so i'm hopeful he just didn't know how to test properly because apart from the metal shroud being ever so slightly bent there's nothing wrong with the slot, inner pins or the pins that are soldered to the motherboard either, even the tiny filter SMD's are still all present on the lines of the circuit so i'm wondering if he maybe just opened up GPU-Z and seen it report as PCIe4.0X4 and thought it was a damaged slot. I can't test until this weekend when i've got some free time so i'll know for sure then.
 

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Sounds like a PSU issue to me, the caps would fully drain overnight when off, but once started they hold enough charge to keep restarting the system. Possibly the 12V rail is faulty.
 
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That's a bit of a sh**er then because on the Asrock site it says is has 2x PCIe4.0 X16, the lying little sh&&ebags! I just checked the bottom of the motherboard too and you're 100% right, 1 slot is 1x and the other 4x! Ah well, i'm more hopeful now then that the seller made a big mistake in his testing methods and there isn't an issue with it or it at least runs PCIe4.0 X8 or X16 because they did say it worked still, just not at PCIe5.0 speeds but I can't see how he can test that with no PCIe5.0 GPU's on the market?
Yes that's very annoying and all manufacturers are doing the same, advertising physical size instead of the electrical connexion. Not to mention that there's also some lane sharing with other PCIe and M2 slots most of the time (not on this Asrock board though), so you have to go directly to the spec sheet or even download the manual before buying to be sure. It's almost like they're doing this deliberately to fool customers as I don't understand the purpose of a x16 slot running at x1.

I would also try to switch the PSU before the board but I'm no expert. Hope you find the issue
 

h4x0rm1k3

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Yes that's very annoying and all manufacturers are doing the same, advertising physical size instead of the electrical connexion. Not to mention that there's also some lane sharing with other PCIe and M2 slots most of the time (not on this Asrock board though), so you have to go directly to the spec sheet or even download the manual before buying to be sure. It's almost like they're doing this deliberately to fool customers as I don't understand the purpose of a x16 slot running at x1.

I would also try to switch the PSU before the board but I'm no expert. Hope you find the issue
Yes it's definitely a PITA, I didn't think to check to be honest and didn't think about it at the time either, he said it does display on that slot anyway but at a reduced speed so i'm hoping he doesn't know how to test and it does work fine. Ive got to wait for a PSU, my closest one I can borrow is over 40 miles away and I don't have transport etc so have to wait 'till next weekend when it's my birthday for him to drop it over as he's over that day anyway but in the meantime i'll be testing the other board so i'll know by then if it is the board, PSU or possibly something else by then. It's only a 750W PSU but I can live with underclocking my GPU for a short while f it comes to that until I can replace the PSU proper if it does end up being that.
 

h4x0rm1k3

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Been a week now so thought i'd give a little update. I had to send back the motherboard as the damage to the socket was on the other side and not visible until i'd removed the M2 cover and could then see it was quite bad and some pins had torn the traces away from the board and because my GPU costs £1500 i'm not risking it, no chance! So, i've now gone with the suggestions in the thread and grabbed an RM1000X, the newer version, and will be installing that over this weekend so 1 way or the other there will be either some more questions or all will be good and no further issues.
 

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Ohhh so the board was shorting itself out. Well at least you found the problem and didn't kill any parts in the process.
 
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We need to demand more PCIe lanes on modern Desktop MBs. I know the previous generations used a chip but it is a travesty when electrically my Asus Sabretooth 990FX has more PCIe lanes than my X670E E Strix.
 
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