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Vivo Announces the CASE-V10G Mid-Tower ATX Case for $50

Raevenlord

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Vivo, a relative unknown in the case space, has announced their new offering, the CASE-V10G, which aims to bring premium features to an almost unheard of price of $50. The new CASE-V10G includes an all-black steel and plastic construction, with tempered glass front and side panels providing users the opportunity to peek at their hardware. The front tempered glass panel sits about an inch ahead of the included 3x Blue LED fans, guaranteeing enough air flow for proper component cooling.

For the company to achieve its list pricing, however, some corners had to be cut: there's no room for a proper watercooling setup, and the only exhaust fan (120 mm, the only support point for a radiator) is located on the back of the chassis - should users want top exhausts, they'll have to drill them in themselves. The CASE-V10G supports motherboards up to ATX in size, graphics cards up to 350 mm, tower coolers with up to 155 mm, and full size ATX power supplies. There are 7x expansion slots, and enough mounting locations for 2x 3.5" and 2x 2.5" hard drives. Front panel connectors include 2x USB 2.0 ports, 1x USB 3.0 port, and HD audio jacks. The Vivo CASE-V10G is available now from retailers.



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"Front panel connectors include 2x USB 2.0 ports, 1x USB 3.0 port..."

Why? Why do USB 2.0 connectors still exist?
 
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"Front panel connectors include 2x USB 2.0 ports, 1x USB 3.0 port..."

Why? Why do USB 2.0 connectors still exist?

Being a low budget case it should have plenty of clients rocking older tech like myself (AM3 mobo, no USB 3)
 
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"Front panel connectors include 2x USB 2.0 ports, 1x USB 3.0 port..."

Why? Why do USB 2.0 connectors still exist?

^^This^^
 
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It has a top mounted psu
 

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TheLostSwede

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"Front panel connectors include 2x USB 2.0 ports, 1x USB 3.0 port..."

Why? Why do USB 2.0 connectors still exist?

Cost. USB 3.0 is about 2-3x the cost to make, as you need much more expensive wiring and better shielding.
 
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How is this a high airflow case with solid acrylic front panel? :kookoo:
"Front panel connectors include 2x USB 2.0 ports, 1x USB 3.0 port..."

Why? Why do USB 2.0 connectors still exist?
To connect mice, headsets, gamepads, amps, etc...
 
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Cost. USB 3.0 is about 2-3x the cost to make, as you need much more expensive wiring and better shielding.

Individually maybe, but certainly not in the larger quantities. (1000 +) that a case mfgr. would buy, along with the associated discounts and kickbacks......

IIRC, it's called the "economy of scale"

From my recent build experiences, I know first hand that the differences in shielding and wiring is only marginal at best, but certainly not 2-3x that of usb2 stuff, so me thinks this statement is misleading...
 
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Pricing of tempered glass cases has hit a new low. You have to wonder, though, about the quality of this case, the steel frame is probably as thin as tin foil.
 
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"Front panel connectors include 2x USB 2.0 ports, 1x USB 3.0 port..."Why? Why do USB 2.0 connectors still exist?
To connect mice, headsets, gamepads, amps, etc...
And for those of us who use legacy OS software still. Not everyone wants/likes Windows 10. Windows 7, many distro's of Linux and even FreeDOS need USB2 to install from. USB 3 is not inbuilt yet.
 

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Individually maybe, but certainly not in the larger quantities. (1000 +) that a case mfgr. would buy, along with the associated discounts and kickbacks......

IIRC, it's called the "economy of scale"

From my recent build experiences, I know first hand that the differences in shielding and wiring is only marginal at best, but certainly not 2-3x that of usb2 stuff, so me thinks this statement is misleading...

Sure, but economy of scales apply to cheap parts too. You seriously don't think they trim all the "fat" on a $50 case?

Considering I work with developing various hardware products, I can tell you it's not misleading, you'd be surprised at the price difference between "low speed"and high speed cables, connectors etc. Also, cheap USB 3.0 cables are terrible, they cause major EMI leaks that can interrupt 2.4GHz signals very easily. Your wireless mouse isn't working? Your phone won't cost over Bluetooth? Wi-Fi is iffy? Most likely USB 3.0 interference.
 
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Why are you concern about PSU placement...??? Like it matter...
PSU on top = draws all the heat and dust.

PSU on bottom = draws fresh air from under the case. Also, almost always has a dust filter.
 
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with a psu at the top and a drive cage in the front there looks to be no rad support.
 

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any EU retailer?

We're sorry, but we only distribute our cases in North America at this time.


It is outdated, but USB 2.0 still works well for charging devices, or for plugging in standard devices like keyboards and mice. They're also much less expensive to manufacture, so we can offer the case at an even lower price. Where a USB 2.0 port only requires 4 wires, a 3.0 port requires 9 wires, 4 of which are twisted-pair like Ethernet cables to properly carry high speed data. The twisted-pairs also have to be individually shielded to prevent interference.

Yeah. This would have been fine 10 years ago.

The chassis is an older design, we won't deny that. By using an older chassis, we were able to make this a low-cost case for the builder on a budget. Despite this, the case actually has great airflow, and is capable of keeping even a high-end graphics card at a safe temperature.

Pricing of tempered glass cases has hit a new low. You have to wonder, though, about the quality of this case, the steel frame is probably as thin as tin foil.

The steel is 0.5mm. It's thinner than what you'll find on a case in the $60+ range, but it's very typical for the under $60 range, and it's sturdy enough to support everything inside without worry. The quality of the glass is as good as other budget glass cases in the under $75 range, and has a great finish and clarity with a very slight tint.

with a psu at the top and a drive cage in the front there looks to be no rad support.

The front does not support radiators, but a 120mm radiator can still be fit in back.
 
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@VIVO
Just a heads up, multiposting isn't allowed in the forums. You are going to want to combine all of your posts into one. Otherwise it looks like spamming.
 
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VIVO

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@VIVO
Just a heads up, multiposting isn't allowed in the forums. You going to want to combine all of your posts into one. Otherwise it looks like spamming.

Thanks! I'll see if I can edit them down to 1 post. I was answering from the article instead of the forum and didn't see the multi-quote button.
 
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PSU on top = draws all the heat and dust.

PSU on bottom = draws fresh air from under the case. Also, almost always has a dust filter.

That's all well and good, but you just made more points for using UPPER placement. Its a build in free-way to get rid of hot air from case. And unless you overload your PSU it have no negative effect...
 
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That's all well and good, but you just made more points for using UPPER placement. Its a build in free-way to get rid of hot air from case. And unless you overload your PSU it have no negative effect...
There are pros and cons to each configuration. I prefer the top and having 5.25" and 3.5" bays in the opposite space. The case above would be great if it was a bit taller and had such bays inbetween the glass panel and the switch/port panel, or just had a similar model with such.
 

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The case above would be great if it was a bit taller and had such bays inbetween the glass panel and the switch/port panel, or just had a similar model with such.

The bays are already there in the chassis, so if this one does well enough, we could look into a version with a more standard front panel and bays.

As long as we're looking for advantages of a top-mounted PSU, this case will actually let you see some of the RGB lighting from those Thermaltake Toughpower units! Of course, you can just flip those over with a bottom-mounted PSU bay, but that only works if the case doesn't have a PSU shroud.
 
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As long as we're looking for advantages of a top-mounted PSU, this case will actually let you see some of the RGB lighting from those Thermaltake Toughpower units! Of course, you can just flip those over with a bottom-mounted PSU bay, but that only works if the case doesn't have a PSU shroud.
That's another good point in the favor of top mount PSU's.
 
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