Noctua NH-P1 Fanless CPU Cooler Released for $100

[WhitetailAni]

Yep. Only become "inaudible" (still noticeable if the room is quiet enough) below 500rpm. I always have a laugh when Steve from GN or some other reviewers say that something is "quite", then you check the numbers and they have fans spinning at 1000rpm. No way in hell that's quiet, lol!

Huh, we must have different definitions of quiet.
My Noctua NF-F12 at 1500 RPM is completely silent. Same for my ARCTIC P12 PWM. The loudest thing in my case is my GTX 650 Ti BOOST blower cooler fan.

As for the cooler, I wonder what'll happen if you strap two NF-A14 or NF-A15's to the top and bottom. Will it perform better, worse, or the same to an NH-D15 or something similar?

 

[TheDeeGee]

Huh, we must have different definitions of quiet.
My Noctua NF-F12 at 1500 RPM is completely silent. Same for my ARCTIC P12 PWM. The loudest thing in my case is my GTX 650 Ti BOOST blower cooler fan.

As for the cooler, I wonder what'll happen if you strap two NF-A14 or NF-A15's to the top and bottom. Will it perform better, worse, or the same to an NH-D15 or something similar?

Some people (including) me have extremely good hearing, which is often very unfortunate.

As i mentioned before, i can clearly hear the NF-A15 on my D15.

I've read on the Noctua reddit, that's because of those 2 flat sides, which means the stepped inlet design does actually function, if the fan was to be completely round.

NF-A15 Design Shortcoming : Noctua (reddit.com)

 

[iBruceypoo]

@iBruceypoo

Might have to prop up the socket with a cardboard box underneath it looks like it would be a beast with a NF-A14 2000rpm A12x25 or F12 2000rpm though

That's a BIG BOY COOLER!

I'm most definitely NOT running it passive. I'll reuse my NF-A14 2000rpm industrial fan, just lay it on top - ie: professional gravity mount. lol

I'm trying to buy it, but that Newegg page is gone. grrrrrrr, waited 2years for this cooler to drop...finally!

 

[CheapMeat]

The PC hardware community sure loves to complain.

 

[RedelZaVedno]

Why would anyone want to couple fanless cooler with a high end CPU? You don't have to go fanless and risk complications if you want silent PC. I cool 10700KF with 60 bucks Mugen 5 PCGH Edition cooler. It has 2 Kaze Flex 120 PWM fans running at 280 rpm (noise level rated at 4-14 dBA, static pressure 0,75 ~ 4,8 Pa / 270-660rpm). I can't hear them running unless I put my ear inch away from the fans. CPU reaches up to 43 C in idle and around 60 C during gaming with open side panel & case fans turned off. Why would you risk higher temps?

 

[Blueberries]

Same size / price bracket as a D15? This has to perform very well or is DOA

 

[Chrispy_]

Theoretically yes, but you must build something as a proof of concept, otherwise there is no proof of concept, but just, well.. concept

But the concept has already been proven many times over the last two decades at least, Noctua didn't need to re-proof it.
I had a Socket A Thoroughbred-B with a non-trivial overclock running fanless back in the day. probably 70-80W using a Zalman CNPS passive cooler maybe 2001 or 2002.

That's a BIG BOY!

I'm most definitely NOT running it passive. I'll reuse my NF-A14 2000rpm industrial fan, just lay it on top - ie: professional gravity mount. lol

FYI there will be very little point running a fast fan on this. The fin spacing is already close to diminishing returns at air speeds close to heat convection speeds. Adding a 400rpm fan will make a significant difference, adding a 6000rpm fan will add very little more.

If you can tolerate even an 600rpm fan, this is the wrong heatsink for you. Get something with more surface area and shorter heatpipes - like an NH-D15; It'll take up less space and even with a 600rpm fan it'll vastly outperform this NH-P1 as a cooler.

Trust me, as an engineer with a masters covering fluid dynamics, thermodynamics, and acoustics, this is not the best solution for absolute cooling performance. It's very much a tuned compromise that targets a deltaT at an extremely low ambient airflow velocity, just like a Toyota Prius' 1.5L atkinson-cycle engine was tuned specifically for highway cruising cruising efficiency at 80-120km/h. It was pretty shit outside that singular purpose with abysmal low-speed torque and no scaling of horsepower at higher speeds. You can use this NH-P1 with a fan, just like you can drive a Prius at over 160km/h but it's far from the best tool for the job and cheaper, better solutions exist if that's your goal.

 

[Ominence]

This is perfect for me who will be using 3000rpm PPCs and so do not have to waste any time or money wondering what to do with the stock fans on just about every other cooler solution out there.

 

[maxfly]

Specs have been leaked for a while.
3.3lbs
120w fanless
180w with fans in case

Noctua's Fanless 'Passive CPU Cooler' Slated to Arrive Soon

The Austrian company showed off a prototype CPU cooler with no moving parts at Computex 2019, and it appears the device is finally ready for primetime.

www.pcmag.com

 

[The red spirit]

To be honest, I'd love to have a completely passive build, though I can only imagine it with low-power components like T-series Intel CPUs and GeForce GT 1030.

Really? I have actually built something similar to that that could potentially work like one. AMD FX 6300 (also Athlon X4 760K works just as well) at stock settings doesn't overheat with passive Scythe Mugen 4 PCGH cooler in prime95 load. And it consumes like 160-180 watts stock, all of it is converted to heat, so dissipating heat isn't a problem. And it worked in closed Cooler Master K280 case, which is super pedestrian case. For graphics card you can buy one of Plait KalmX 1650 cards (although they do run hot and aren't recommendable) or source Artic Accelero S3 Passive coolers or Arctic Extreme coolers and run it passively on more powerful card like 1650 Super, maybe 1660. It should work. For PSU, Silverstone Nightjar would suffice and it's completely fanless. A case could be anything, but preferably something with top exhaust.

 

[AusWolf]

Really? I have actually built something similar to that that could potentially work like one. AMD FX 6300 (also Athlon X4 760K works just as well) at stock settings doesn't overheat with passive Scythe Mugen 4 PCGH cooler in prime95 load. And it consumes like 160-180 watts stock, all of it is converted to heat, so dissipating heat isn't a problem. And it worked in closed Cooler Master K280 case, which is super pedestrian case. For graphics card you can buy one of Plait KalmX 1650 cards (although they do run hot and aren't recommendable) or source Artic Accelero S3 Passive coolers or Arctic Extreme coolers and run it passively on more powerful card like 1650 Super, maybe 1660. It should work. For PSU, Silverstone Nightjar would suffice and it's completely fanless. A case could be anything, but preferably something with top exhaust.

Those KalmX cards are brutal! I still have a 1050 Ti in the drawer. It tends to overheat and throttle with no airflow around it, though. I used to have a passive 1030 as well which didn't, that's why I'd rather have one of those in a passive system than the 1050.

 

[Octopuss]

What unholy witchcraft is this? lol

 

[The red spirit]

Those KalmX cards are brutal! I still have a 1050 Ti in the drawer. It tends to overheat and throttle with no airflow around it, though. I used to have a passive 1030 as well which didn't, that's why I'd rather have one of those in a passive system than the 1050.

Then you just need to get your hands on Artic S3 or Extreme cooler and put it on some nicer card. I don't think that passive 1650 Super would be impossible to pull off. I'm also pretty sure that with beefier air cooler, you could cool your 11700 passively without case fans. Passive cooling isn't really that difficult all you need is enough metal to make it work. I never tried that, but it might also be possible to make your PSU passive too, but you would need to invest some money and time into how to put some heatsink there and not be shocked. I still remember that one time when I touched not completely discharged PSU cap. It didn't hurt, but it was an odd feeling. And if that's too much for you, then PSUs usually can be modified to have a slower fan, but then it's on you to make sure that it doesn't overheat. I replaced my PSU's stock Yate Loon (max 2500 rpm) with Arctic F12 PWM. PWM stuff ended up being useless as it PSU only had two wire connector. So far it still works after many years, but I wouldn't want to use my PSU at full specified capacity.