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EK Releases Loop Cleaning and Prepping Solutions

btarunr

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EK, the premium liquid cooling gear manufacturer, is releasing new loop cleaning and prepping solutions compatible with EK-CryoFuel coolants and all EK tubing types. The goal is to enable EK customers to extend their coolants' life and avoid contamination breakdowns by using safe and compatible chemicals. An added benefit for the customers is they can now get everything in the EK shop, avoiding additional transport costs.

The purpose of the EK-Cryofuel Loop Cleaner is to clean your existing loop before pouring in new coolant or to fully prepare a new, unused custom loop. It removes any manufacturing residues, impurities, and coolant stains. This is not a stand-alone product as it requires a subsequent use of the Superflush solution to pick up any residue from the cleaner and ensure maximum stability of your new coolant.



EK-Cryofuel Loop Cleaner comes as a concentrate in a 250 ml bottle and should be mixed with 1250 ml (1:5 ratio) of distilled water before use. It is poured into the water-cooling system and left to circulate from 2 to 24 hours.

EK-CryoFuel Superflush
EK-CryoFuel Superflush is a solution made for rinsing the EK-CryoFuel Loop Cleaner residue from your loop. Once you're done with your cleaning session using the EK-CryoFuel Loop Cleaner, you should circulate the Superflush solution for 15 minutes and drain it from your loop. Once your loop is cleaned out, another batch of Superflush should be used in the system. This time it should circulate for 24 hours before using the new coolant in your loop. If the Superflush foams too much, the pump speed should be reduced.

EK-CryoFuel Superflush comes as either a concentrate in a 250 ml bottle or a premix in a 1000 ml bottle. The concentrate option is to be mixed with approximately 2750 ml of distilled water (1:11 ratio). The premix option is ready for use out of the bottle. Superflush can be used as a stand-alone product to prepare a new loop for the coolant and extend its life, improve stability, and reduce soft tube yellowing.

EK-CryoFuel Loop Cleaner + Superflush (Concentrate 250 mL)
This is a combo of the two above mentioned products and is a perfect way to set up your custom loop water cooling system for a new coolant. EK-CryoFuel Cleaner is used first to clean out the dirt, and the remainder of the previous coolant, followed by the Superflush to make sure no chemicals from the cleaner remain in the loop.

Availability and Pricing
EK-CryoFuel Loop Cleaner and EK-CryoFuel Superflush are made in Slovenia, Europe, and are readily available for pre-order through the EK Webshop and Partner Reseller Network. The table below shows the manufacturer's suggested retail price (MSRP) with VAT included.



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I just buy 5L of demineralized water and pour some of it through every piece before the final assembly (1 canister is enough for 3-4 rinses). Never had any problems with gunk piling up inside waterblocks (except one case, where the coolant was contaminated as hell - looking at you Feser, good thing you disappeared...).

And if it's a loop that requires cleaning - all the blocks, reservoirs and pumps can be easily disassembled for a throughrough service and the radiator can be cleaned by using a mixture of vinegar, water and citric acid. Then rinse it with demineralized water and voila. :)
 
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I just tried to clean my EK Vector GPU waterblock the other day - I found it cannot be opened without breaking/bending parts of it. They KNOW it will have to be cleaned at some point, but it seems they try and force people to buy a new block when it can't be cleaned/unblocked with fluids. Arsehole design. Not buying EK stuff anymore.
 
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I just tried to clean my EK Vector GPU waterblock the other day - I found it cannot be opened without breaking/bending parts of it. They KNOW it will have to be cleaned at some point, but it seems they try and force people to buy a new block when it can't be cleaned/unblocked with fluids. Arsehole design. Not buying EK stuff anymore.

What do You mean? Almost every fullcover should be like a sandwich made of acetal/acryl and copper base. The only thing I found difficult is to put the main oring back in place.
 
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What do You mean? Almost every fullcover should be like a sandwich made of acetal/acryl and copper base. The only thing I found difficult is to put the main oring back in place.
Yes, that's what I was thinking too, but there are 4 or 5 more screws behind the LED cover, the cover is stuck to the plexi and because it is thin metal it bends when you try to take it off. So I either accept that there is stuff inside the block or break/bend the cover to get inside it which means the LED cover will look bent/mangled if I get it back on or the LEDs will be showing which won't be nice.
 
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I'm looking at some EK Classic fullcovers and now I see what You mean. Is this black cover glued on? If so, then that sucks.
 

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Yes, that's what I was thinking too, but there are 4 or 5 more screws behind the LED cover, the cover is stuck to the plexi and because it is thin metal it bends when you try to take it off. So I either accept that there is stuff inside the block or break/bend the cover to get inside it which means the LED cover will look bent/mangled if I get it back on or the LEDs will be showing which won't be nice.

I literally just pulled my ek gpu block apart and cleaned it, and put it back together, without breaking anything. You just pull the led cover off as it clicks into place. You should be able to find a teardown video through an online search, if not ek's website shows a tear down in the installation manual at the bottom of the wb page. The manuals sometimes go into more details then the screenshots show
 

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