EK CryoFuel Coolants Now Have Extended Shelf Life of Four Years

[GFreeman]

EK, the renowned cutting-edge cooling solutions provider, proudly announces a significant update on its high-quality CryoFuel coolant solutions. With the launch of clear EK CryoFuel coolants in March 2017 and their Solid counterparts in late 2018, EK has had enough time for extensive testing and now officially, with confidence, can confirm that the shelf life of all EK CryoFuel coolants is 4 years, as opposed to the previously stated 2 years. This improvement showcases the outstanding stability and performance of EK's CryoFuel coolant formula.

The company has continuously kept a watchful eye on its offerings since the launch of EK-CryoFuel coolants six years ago and EK-CryoFuel Solid coolants five years ago. During this period, through comprehensive testing and analysis, EK confirmed that its coolant formula possesses even greater longevity. The extension of the shelf life guarantees that CryoFuel coolants remain in flawless condition for a duration of 4 years from production date. Customers can now confidently open and utilize their CryoFuel coolants within the 4-year time frame, with the assurance they will perform flawlessly until subsequent changes occur, usually after one year of use.



To ensure clarity and convenience for customers, all relevant products will now feature a new label displaying the updated shelf life or comprehensive instructions regarding the shelf life. Whether it's the lid, the bottom of the bottle, or other prominent locations, customers will find clear indications of the extended 4-year shelf life.

This change, however, does NOT apply to the recently released SuperFlush and Cleaner Solutions.

Extended Shelf Life Applies to All CryoFuel Coolants
It is important to note that this updated, i.e., extended 4-year shelf life applies to all CryoFuel coolants, even those featuring the former label that states a shorter shelf life. Customers can be confident that even when they come across EK CryoFuel coolants with the "old" labeling stating a 2-year shelf life, they are guaranteed a 4-year shelf life, as well as optimal performance and quality of the coolant.

This significantly longer shelf life of all CryoFuel coolants represents an important milestone for EK. It underlines the company's dedication to continuous improvement and innovation, ensuring customers can rely on EK for top-tier cooling solutions.

To back up these claims and encourage users to use coolant bottles with the old labeling, EK will provide a new bottle of their preferred coolant and a flushing kit to anyone who encounters coolant fallout. It is also our environmental duty to encourage users to use perfectly good coolants.

Here is a list of products that now claim a longer shelf life:

• EK-CryoFuel Acid Green (Premix 1000mL)
• EK-CryoFuel Blood Red (Premix 1000mL)
• EK-CryoFuel Clear (Concentrate 100mL)
• EK-CryoFuel Clear (Premix 1000mL)
• EK-CryoFuel Dye Pack
• EK-CryoFuel Indigo Violet (Premix 1000mL)
• EK-CryoFuel Lime Yellow (Premix 1000mL)
• EK-CryoFuel Mystic Fog (Concentrate. 250mL)
• EK-CryoFuel Mystic Fog (Premix 1000mL)
• EK-CryoFuel Navy Blue (Premix 1000mL)
• EK-CryoFuel Power Pink (Concentrate 100mL)
• EK-CryoFuel Solid Azure Blue (Premix 1000mL)
• EK-CryoFuel Solid Cloud White (Conc. 250mL)
• EK-CryoFuel Solid Cloud White (Premix 1000mL)
• EK-CryoFuel Solid Electric Purple (Conc. 250mL)
• EK-CryoFuel Solid Electric Purple (Premix 1000mL)
• EK-CryoFuel Solid Laguna Yellow (Conc. 250mL)
• EK-CryoFuel Solid Scarlet Red (Premix 1000 mL)
• EK-CryoFuel Solid Neon Green (Premix 1000mL)

What Is Shelf Life Exactly?
Shelf life does NOT mean expiration date. Chemical stability is only one of many factors involved in defining expiration date and shelf life. Shelf life is the amount of time an unopened and adequately stored product in its original packaging will last without any chemical or physical changes compromising its optimal performance. To properly store any EK CryoFuel product, it must be kept in a cool, dry, and well-ventilated space. This means that EK CryoFuel coolants can still be used even after the expiry of their shelf life, but their ability to prevent corrosion and biological growth may be compromised.

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[Waldorf]

I have seen many bottles on shelfs (different brands) showing signs of bio growth (mold) way before that date,
(easily visible with the clear stuff).

if stuff is shipped/stored incorrectly, that "shelf life" number means nothing...

 

[HBSound]

Currently, I am planning to perform maintenance on my system. This includes cleaning the rads and water blocks and potentially adding another RAD. I will be using EK Clear for this process.

 

[Waldorf]

using fluids for cleaning is wasted money.

distilled (not deionized) water, and maybe some loop cleaner after it was taken apart (and cleaned physically),
and flushing a few times with just distilled water is best.

 

[SOAREVERSOR]

using fluids for cleaning is wasted money.

distilled (not deionized) water, and maybe some loop cleaner after it was taken apart (and cleaned physically),
and flushing a few times with just distilled water is best.

Agree with the catch of tossing in some biocide even if it's just kill coils.

Fluids and dye bombs are shit.

 

[thesmokingman]

Currently, I am planning to perform maintenance on my system. This includes cleaning the rads and water blocks and potentially adding another RAD. I will be using EK Clear for this process.

I'd avoid this crap.

 

[Waldorf]

@SOAREVERSOR
i remember that most reviews/user feedback regarding coils were worse than with fluids.
most liquid concentrates i used were even good when used on "dirty" loops (debris free).

frozencpu had the dead water stuff, bottle last forever (1 drop per L of water)

 

[LabRat 891]

I don't 'get' specialty coolants.
Even the most veteran OCer-WCers *know* pure water is the best performer. (Thermodynamics agrees, too)

'not a whole lotta WCing experience, but I'd always wondered why DIY colloidal silver wasn't a more common biocide/coolant.
Since it's for cooling, one could use 'coin silver*' and a wall wart, in some distilled water.

*~90Ag/10Cu - Both Silver and Copper are biocidal in-solution/colloid.

Note: Dead Water Biocide's active ingredient is 5% Copper Sulfate, sold in-solution and as crystals for Gardening, Homebrewing, etc.
and
If one was comfortable with Chemistry, manufacturable at home with some pre-'82 US Pennies/scrap Copper and Battery Electrolyte, etc.

 

[Waldorf]

@LabRat 891
did so too (for the "cooling part" of it) until opaque/solid colors came out.
after almost 20y of using coolant that looked like water with food coloring, i switched,
and i dont have to worry about issues you can get using biocide/silver solution in mixed material loops
(unpainted/covered parts on alu connectors)

 

[mechtech]

15 year coolant

Prestone® Platinum All Vehicles Antifreeze + Coolant

prestone.com

 

[LabRat 891]

15 year coolant

Prestone® Platinum All Vehicles Antifreeze + Coolant

prestone.com

Spoiler: Curse word in video.

(I'm on team "Automotive Coolant is fine" but, I know this is a long-time 'hot topic')

 

[A Computer Guy]

I have seen many bottles on shelfs (different brands) showing signs of bio growth (mold) way before that date,
(easily visible with the clear stuff).

if stuff is shipped/stored incorrectly, that "shelf life" number means nothing...

My first 1L bottle of EK Clear had floating stuff. Not sure if it was bio growth but it was like semi-clear thin flat fish flakes...now that I think about it again it was more like scale you might find at the bottom of a tea kettle. I filtered them out with a coffee filter and all was good. My next 2 bottles had no problem and my 4th I used the concentrate instead so I could mix with locally sourced distilled water.

Currently, I am planning to perform maintenance on my system. This includes cleaning the rads and water blocks and potentially adding another RAD. I will be using EK Clear for this process.

I agree with others. Don't use the EK Clear for cleaning.

I wouldn't say I'm an expert but here is what I do for cleaning...

• For new (copper) RADS distilled + vinegar (initial shake and bake followed up by overnight dissolving loop running)
• For water blocks (copper/nickel) distilled + soap + soft toothbrush
• For cleaning surface residues
  • isopropyl alcohol as a solvent if needed for non-acrylic surfaces only.
  • toothpaste as an abrasive for non-acrylic surfaces only.
  • vinegar as a solvent if needed for acrylic surfaces only.
• Flush with distilled.
• Also don't forget to inspect and clean your gaskets too and the channels they rest in!

 

[HBSound]

My first 1L bottle of EK Clear had floating stuff. Not sure if it was bio growth but it was like semi-clear thin flat fish flakes...now that I think about it again it was more like scale you might find at the bottom of a tea kettle. I filtered them out with a coffee filter and all was good. My next 2 bottles had no problem and my 4th I used the concentrate instead so I could mix with locally sourced distilled water.


I agree with others. Don't use the EK Clear for cleaning.

I wouldn't say I'm an expert but here is what I do for cleaning...

• For new RADS distilled + vinegar (initial shake and bake followed up by overnight dissolving loop running)
• For water blocks distilled + soap + soft toothbrush
• For cleaning surface residues
  • isopropyl alcohol as a solvent if needed for non-acrylic surfaces only.
  • toothpaste as an abrasive for non-acrylic surfaces only.
  • vinegar as a solvent if needed for acrylic surfaces only.
• Flush with distilled.
• Also don't forget to inspect and clean your gaskets too and the channels they rest in!

I didn't mention this earlier, but I actually plan to use the EK coolants to refill my current radiators, not for cleaning purposes. However, I really appreciate your instructions for cleaning out my existing system. Thank you!

 

[Ruru]

Just wondering that does any of these coolants have any real difference over distilled water?

 

[Waldorf]

@A Computer Guy
while certain metals are fine (copper), no alu rad will like any acidic stuff used.
not all ppl reading this, will have "all copper" loops, so ...

@Kissamies
i tried a few different ones over the years, while they might not do (much) better for temps,
they make it easier for ppl (fill and go), without having to worry about dosing (biocides),
or having mixed metals, even if by accident ("cheaply" made connectors/bad quality control, leaving exposed metals).

while i prefer distilled water and a (liquid) biocide, the recent opaque stuff looked cooler,
and so far (5 month), seems to perform as good as DW, while offering lower conductivity and freezing point (not tested by me).

EC6

 

[zlobby]

Yikes! Expiring fluids? No, thanks!

Deionized and distilled water with a silver kill coils. With properly flushed loops this will last for decades.

 

[gurusmi]

1 nhave a bottle of 4 yrs old Cryofuel in my shelf. It's a rest of my last build. This will work now like the other new bottles. I will fill all of them in my new build. so there is no new for me. It's like himalaya salt. That has lain for x0.000 years in the mountains. When filled into a bottle it has a bestUse date.

 

[Ruru]

@Kissamies
i tried a few different ones over the years, while they might not do (much) better for temps,
they make it easier for ppl (fill and go), without having to worry about dosing (biocides),
or having mixed metals, even if by accident ("cheaply" made connectors/bad quality control, leaving exposed metals).

Yeah, that could be a thing. Copper block and rad on my loop, though the fittings are brass. Hard to say that does it affect?

 

[Waldorf]

@zlobby
deionized water is a bad idea, to use as liquid when you have metals.
stuff wants to equalize, so it will draw from your parts, with a good possibility of
a chemical reaction, even if slow, can then lead to leak/burst, especially when not using a pressure valve.

@Kissamies
while i had no trouble using liquid biocide on previous loop,(didnt want to spend much on coolant, since resorator + 3/4in ID hoses took almost 1gal of fluid),
but seeing galvanic reaction after i converted my eisbaer (aio) to loop (some of the G1/4 elbows had small areas not fully painted on inside),
i decided to go with a coolant that has mixed metals in mind, wanted to try solid color anyway.

 

[zlobby]

@zlobby
deionized water is a bad idea, to use as liquid when you have metals.
stuff wants to equalize, so it will draw from your parts, with a good possibility of
a chemical reaction, even if slow, can then lead to leak/burst, especially when not using a pressure valve.

Not denying physics or chemistry.

With only copper, brass and the kill coils, and 8 years later all is seemingly OK.
Temps are OK, no leaks, cracks, buildup or discoloration. Also, there is a valve. If I remember correctly, I only topped it up with just a few tablespoons of water a few years ago.

So, whatever is chemically happening there must be slow enough to not affect the loop and its qualities that much.

It's my oldest loop and at this point I'm only running it to see when it will start losing cooling performance or fail. I've then applied this experience to numerous other loops and had zero issues with them. Unlike many other people with their fancy liquids, platings and whatnot.

 

[Waldorf]

@zlobby
oh sure it works fine, as long as none of the stuff (incl rad) has any exposed alu,
but its not so much about the chance of anything "bad" happening,
if you take "clean" water, the molecules from the metals will wander into the water,
something completely preventable using distilled water, ignoring that its most of the time cheaper as well.

deionized water is for lab etc stuff or for use in cleaning or steam irons,
so you dont introduce impurities, so no benefit.
i rather have UV treated, 5 times filtered distilled, than deionized...

 

[zlobby]

@zlobby
oh sure it works fine, as long as none of the stuff (incl rad) has any exposed alu,
but its not so much about the chance of anything "bad" happening,
if you take "clean" water, the molecules from the metals will wander into the water,
something completely preventable using distilled water, ignoring that its most of the time cheaper as well.

deionized water is for lab etc stuff or for use in cleaning or steam irons,
so you dont introduce impurities, so no benefit.
i rather have UV treated, 5 times filtered distilled, than deionized...

Al and Cu in the same loop? I wouldn't mix these with any type of fancy additive that should supposedly take care of everything. At 300% markup price, nonetheless.

It's all been going fine for my numerous consequent loops with the same basic recipe. Plus, deionized and distilled water isn't expensive where I source it from. Plus, a few gallons will last you for many builds (if you don't pre-flush with it of course).

And I'm pretty sure the last part is sarcasm. While I use it often myself, it may confuse other readers and mislead them towards wasting time and money.

 

[Ruru]

@Kissamies
while i had no trouble using liquid biocide on previous loop,(didnt want to spend much on coolant, since resorator + 3/4in ID hoses took almost 1gal of fluid),
but seeing galvanic reaction after i converted my eisbaer (aio) to loop (some of the G1/4 elbows had small areas not fully painted on inside),
i decided to go with a coolant that has mixed metals in mind, wanted to try solid color anyway.

Ah, I have also an Eisbaer on my other PC yet I use distilled water there as well.

 

[Waldorf]

@zlobby
just because we dont mix them, doesnt mean others dont (by accident, as in coated/painted stuff with tiny exposed areas).
not everyone lives where you are, so prices arent the same, and usually deionized is more expensive than distilled,
while not netting any benefit i can think of, especially when using biocide.

and no, its not sarcasm:
spending 5min online, have yet to find a single recommended use that goes past lab/manufacturing/production use
and to quote what wiki has:

Distilled water can be used in PC water-cooling systems and Laser Marking Systems.
The lack of impurity in the water means that the system stays clean and prevents a buildup of bacteria and algae. Also, the low conductance reduces the risk of electrical damage in the event of a leak.
However, deionized water has been known to cause cracks in brass and copper fittings

there is no benefit using deionized water in a pc cooling loop, otherwise name 3 reasons (besides being less conductive)
ignoring for a moment that deionized water can still contain viruses/bacteria,
or that most places sell it for 2-10x times what equivalent distilled water would cost, which i can get in virtually every supermarket...

and no, just because its working fine for you, does not mean its a good idea or "proof".

 

[zlobby]

However, deionized water has been known to cause cracks in brass and copper fittings

Yikes! I must have been very lucky. Would it be possible that the silver coils in the loops saved me from this?