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Did I just bricked my MOBO with short circuit ?

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surely rare, but could be, if the psu is messed up,
if there is something wrong with any of the protections not kicking in and allowing higher than would should be.
 
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again, very unlike its the outlet causing the case to have power, it would rather come from psu (failure of protection),
or the mb (short with the case).
i expect it would be the board, even if the cpu led comes on, doesnt mean its that, as it could just be
that the board cant proceed with "testing" hw, and might just "stop" there, even that the cpu isnt dead.

your better off testing (cpu) with a different board, then you can exclude that and would more or less leave mb (maybe psu),
and you could get started with rma already, rather than later.
But PSU is working fine now I am using it with the same case just with different mobo .And never caused me any problems for 3 months straight .I am about to buy ram and CPU to test if one of them are the problem , because mobo is the most expensive of this three parts.
 
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Something is causing the case to go live, without knowing what you risk destroying future parts as well as it being a danger to yourself.

A plug tester would be a good start.

plug tester.jpg
 
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Something is causing the case to go live, without knowing what you risk destroying future parts as well as it being a danger to yourself.

A plug tester would be a good start.

View attachment 341706
I understand nothing from this tests :( Unfortunately this ''thing'' looks like to me something out of this world. I am very ''scolded'' with electricity. I never had problems with my pc components when I was using them in my home town houses that I got (in Bulgaria a single person got couple of houses and properties) . The first thing that happen such a thing is in my friends house out of this town 2 days ago. I want just to mention that in this house there is a big hall room with any kind of heavy old soviet machines(pictures attached) attached to the electricity network system of the house which machines use three-phase electric power cables. I think that his uncle used one of them at the moment when I plugged the PC into the wall socket. Because I am charging phones and pluging in speakers in that exact wall socket and never had any problems. Also other house items consuming power like TV's and heaters never had any problem using electricity.Sometimes the exact house electricity got unsufficient power phase (I am not sure how to explain it correctly in English) but never tought that could cause problems and never caused any.
 

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A live case is life threatening; something to be taken very seriously.
 
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Something is causing the case to go live, without knowing what you risk destroying future parts as well as it being a danger to yourself.

A plug tester would be a good start.

View attachment 341706

A live case is life threatening; something to be taken very seriously.

A few (semi-common, going by electrician forums) scenarios come to mind to 'cause' this kind of dangerous fault:
A. Ground-Neutral bonded somewhere other than the Service Entrance-Breaker Box, allowing sub-mains voltage to 'flow through' Protective Earth (ie, a 'hack job' somewhere else in the building)

B. Ground-Neutral swapped in an outlet (effectively creating scenario A. in a diff way)

I understand nothing from this tests :( Unfortunately this ''thing'' looks like to me something out of this world. I am very ''scolded'' with electricity. I never had problems with my pc components when I was using them in my home town houses that I got (in Bulgaria a single person got couple of houses and properties) . The first thing that happen such a thing is in my friends house out of this town 2 days ago. I want just to mention that in this house there is a big hall room with any kind of heavy old soviet machines(pictures attached) attached to the electricity network system of the house which machines use three-phase electric power cables. I think that his uncle used one of them at the moment when I plugged the PC into the wall socket. Because I am charging phones and pluging in speakers in that exact wall socket and never had any problems. Also other house items consuming power like TV's and heaters never had any problem using electricity.Sometimes the exact house electricity got unsufficient power phase (I am not sure how to explain it correctly in English) but never tought that could cause problems and never caused any.
C. A nearby short-to-ground *and* relatively good-conducting soil/ground conditions
(You can find many stories of Well Pumps, Pool Pumps, etc. 'bleeding voltage' to ground, and shocking neighbors or energizing shower/faucet/spigot taps)

So much is Plastic today, that the Ground-bonded chassis of a PC may be the only place you're 'noticing' the issue.


As far as what diagnostic steps a homejobber can do (beyond the good-suggestion Outlet Tester):
1. A DMM (set to ACV) measurement between Neutral and Ground/Earth, should read 'no' voltage.

2. A DMM (set to ACV) w/ one lead into an outlet's Ground/Earth, the other DMM lead into wet+salted ground (or an impromptu driven-in 'ground rod') will tell you if there's a whole-home grounding issue.

More than 1-9VAC* read, and there's good plausibility of a fault (that a proper electrician is best-equipped to diagnose and fix).
*my ambient inducted/coupled voltage on most extension cords and branch circuits

Edit:
I understand nothing from this tests :( Unfortunately this ''thing'' looks like to me something out of this world. I am very ''scolded'' with electricity. I never had problems with my pc components when I was using them in my home town houses that I got (in Bulgaria a single person got couple of houses and properties) . The first thing that happen such a thing is in my friends house out of this town 2 days ago. I want just to mention that in this house there is a big hall room with any kind of heavy old soviet machines(pictures attached) attached to the electricity network system of the house which machines use three-phase electric power cables. I think that his uncle used one of them at the moment when I plugged the PC into the wall socket. Because I am charging phones and pluging in speakers in that exact wall socket and never had any problems. Also other house items consuming power like TV's and heaters never had any problem using electricity.Sometimes the exact house electricity got unsufficient power phase (I am not sure how to explain it correctly in English) but never tought that could cause problems and never caused any.
You really need either
A. a reputable electrician. (Maybe ask the nearest thing that resembles a 'tech services' shop's owner-general manager what/who they recommend?)
or
B. to learn to (safely and effectively) be an 'Electrician', and learn whatever 'rules, regulations, and codes' are SUPPOSED TO BE enforced in your country.
If things are like* how you say they are, your whole local grid probably has major problems, and likely has been 'maintained' by un(der)qualified non-tradesmen (non-Actual Professionals).
*In my 'travels around the web' over the years, pretty much *anywhere* where Soviet Infrastructure and tools are still in common use, things like 'regulations' and 'professional electricians' mean nothing/'something else'.

If you truly want to fix this problem, you're either going to have to motivate (likely) inept authorities, or become 'The Electricity Guru' for your local community.

C. Learn to workaround and band-aid the problem.
a "Line-Interactive" Uninterruptible Power Supply, spec'd for your mains' Voltage and Frequency(Hz), and VA-rated for at least twice(2x) your expected Wattage load, will 'fix' all but a grounding issue.
To 'band aid' the grounding issue
(and potentially introduce many others) you'll need to 'splice-out' the Protective Earth (Ground) lead from the UPS, and drive your own grounding rod (or, attach to fully-metallic plumbing).

D. Move. The local utilities' infrastructure is "ill-suited" for the lifestyle of a Gamer/Enthusiast/Techie.
 
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tl;dr - probably your motherboard, killed by fubar ground at your buddy's house. Guessing the damage was done while it was running but it was dead man walking. You were still running but if ever powered down it's not gonna start again from cold.

- a rambling story, just for fun:

So my parent's house, some of the outlets the grounding is horrible. Growing up I didn't realize that when one attempted to screw in the coax cable for TV it wasn't normal to be getting tazed by the darn thing while doing it - because the cable coax had a working ground and when screwing it into the TV you were the bus bar since they had swapped live and neutral on the plug as a bonus :banghead:

Anyway, when my mom got internet, it was DSL - and after frying the onboard ethernet and two network cards in the machine realized those old gremlins were still there, as again it was the telephone ground providing an escape for the crap outlets.

Since you still have RMA for the motherboard, I'd do that first. Hopefully the processor is okay but you gotta be sure about the mobo first else you'll be in troubleshooting circles forever.
 
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tl;dr - probably your motherboard, killed by fubar ground at your buddy's house. Guessing the damage was done while it was running but it was dead man walking. You were still running but if ever powered down it's not gonna start again from cold.

- a rambling story, just for fun:

So my parent's house, some of the outlets the grounding is horrible. Growing up I didn't realize that when one attempted to screw in the coax cable for TV it wasn't normal to be getting tazed by the darn thing while doing it - because the cable coax had a working ground and when screwing it into the TV you were the bus bar since they had swapped live and neutral on the plug as a bonus :banghead:

Anyway, when my mom got internet, it was DSL - and after frying the onboard ethernet and two network cards in the machine realized those old gremlins were still there, as again it was the telephone ground providing an escape for the crap outlets.

Since you still have RMA for the motherboard, I'd do that first. Hopefully the processor is okay but you gotta be sure about the mobo first else you'll be in troubleshooting circles forever.
I will just buy cheap processor and 1 stick of ram so I can exclude the 2/3 parts that may be damaged. By doing so at least I will know for sure wheter it is mobo or cpu/ram.Because If I give it to RMA now , I will wait like 1 month+ for results .Also I am not sure if when they find out it was some sort of electric problem that they will apply the guarantee for me since the problem ''came out'' of my wall socket and the problem about the burnt mobo is cause by me. Ofcourse I can just not tell them that all of this happened , but...They can find out probably.
 
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@Shrek
good idea, just wrong plug, wrong voltage.. :D

@hermesa you dont need to know much, you just plug in a tester, and it will show whats going on with the leds that are lit/or not.

outlet tester
 
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red cpu light stops on eh. check cpu pins.
 
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if you take the cpu out again post us a pic of pins and socket " more eyes the better" but i dout the socket is the prob unless some tims made it way down there.
 
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UPDATE: I just bought new cpu and new ram . Again the same problem CPU ez debug light . Tried to change positions on RAM , same situation... Also I noticed that the ''GAMING PLUS'' logo on the mobo which should light up in rgb(yellow) - it's half of the letters have light. Maybe its just the mobo burned/shorted . Also I noticed that there is a 3 signs saying ''case standoff keep out zone'' .Maybe I messed up the things there .When my new mobo arrives in couple of weeks I will try not to mess it up , but I am not sure how this signs works :(
 
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Yeah, make sure proper standoffs, board lifted everywhere. Also make sure no standoff on case, that doesnt line up with screw hole on board, otherwise that might touch circuitry.
No loose screws or other metal underneath.
Non conductive paste.
 
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Yeah, make sure proper standoffs, board lifted everywhere.
No loose screws or other metal underneath.
Non conductive paste.
Yes , I think I did it properly but who knows... I installed every screw on the mobo with the screws that come up with the new case.And as I said I installed additional 3 screws with holes in it to the case before installing the mobo and it screws. I don't know which is considered as ''other metal underneath'' its just the mobo and the box. My thermal paste is MX - 6 so i think its good. Should I remove the screws where is located the ''case standoff keep out zone'' signs ?
 
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Yes , I think I did it properly but who knows... I installed every screw on the mobo with the screws that come up with the new case.And as I said I installed additional 3 screws with holes in it to the case before installing the mobo and it screws. I don't know which is considered as ''other metal underneath'' its just the mobo and the box. My thermal paste is MX - 6 so i think its good. Should I remove the screws where is located the ''case standoff keep out zone'' signs ?

I edited my reply, you should make sure the only standoffs installed are one's that line up with the screw holes on your board. Move or remove the ones that dont line up.
 
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I edited my reply, you should make sure the only standoffs installed are one's that line up with the screw holes on your board. Move or remove the ones that dont line up.
They all lined up and fitted perfectly but the thing is that I installed extra 3 which also lined up perfectly with the mobo holes(I don't know if that matters) .First screw in the center I tried to fit more thick screw than it was the screw hole because they were all messed up in the case spacebag. But then putted the right thickness of screws. I didn't touched the case screws anymore from then and installed my old mobo (z87-g45)
 
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They all lined up and fitted perfectly but the thing is that I installed extra 3 which also lined up perfectly with the mobo holes(I don't know if that matters) .First screw in the center I tried to fit more thick screw than it was the screw hole because they were all messed up in the case spacebag. But then putted the right thickness of screws. I didn't touched the case screws anymore from then and installed my old mobo (z87-g45)
If you installed extra for screw holes that had no standoff, thats fine.
 
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Motherboard ASUS TUF Gaming B550 Plus WiFi II
Cooling AiO LS 520 White edition(MX-6 thermal paste applied)
Memory 2x16GB DDR4 3600Mhz CL18 Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO SL
Video Card(s) RX 7700 XT Asrock Steel Legend 12GB
Storage TeamGroup Cardea A440 1TB 4gen Nvme /SSD Verbatim Vi 550 S3 512GB
Display(s) MSI G272QPF 27 inch 2560x1440p
Case NZXT H6 Flow RGB
Audio Device(s) RGB Kogaion Speakers
Power Supply EVGA Supernova G2 650Watts Gold
Mouse Redragon RGB
Keyboard Koagion RGB
VR HMD no
Software Windows 10 64bit 22H2
Benchmark Scores 25093 Superposition Benchmark 1080p medium
Yes , that's exactly what I did because I wanted my config to be more stable physically and so I don't make bending force to the mobo when plug/unplug the 24pin cable because all we know that this cable pin is very tought to plugging and unplugging.
 

IhateMoBos

New Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2024
Messages
1 (0.50/day)
@hermesa I hope you see this message because i seach really deep in internet for describe my problem and you had the same problem with me.

Like yours, I have no lights or power when i plug in CPU and sometimes CPU and sometimes DRAM lights on when i remove CPU.

I was going to buy new CPU and RAM for test which part is broken, CPU or MoBo... But as i see you already tried it.

So I have 2 questions, if you solved your problem and answer me, i will be gratefull.

1- Did you tried your suspected CPU(Ryzen 3600) on a new MoBo? And if you did this, was your system worked?

2- If you detect that your old MoBo has short circuit, when you plug in a tester cheap CPU, that CPU is broke too after this test?

I really dont want to buy new MoBo and new CPU... So i hope your CPU is worked with new MoBo... My CPU pins are good as well.
 

eidairaman1

The Exiled Airman
Joined
Jul 2, 2007
Messages
42,091 (6.63/day)
Location
Republic of Texas (True Patriot)
System Name PCGOD
Processor AMD FX 8350@ 5.0GHz
Motherboard Asus TUF 990FX Sabertooth R2 2901 Bios
Cooling Scythe Ashura, 2×BitFenix 230mm Spectre Pro LED (Blue,Green), 2x BitFenix 140mm Spectre Pro LED
Memory 16 GB Gskill Ripjaws X 2133 (2400 OC, 10-10-12-20-20, 1T, 1.65V)
Video Card(s) AMD Radeon 290 Sapphire Vapor-X
Storage Samsung 840 Pro 256GB, WD Velociraptor 1TB
Display(s) NEC Multisync LCD 1700V (Display Port Adapter)
Case AeroCool Xpredator Evil Blue Edition
Audio Device(s) Creative Labs Sound Blaster ZxR
Power Supply Seasonic 1250 XM2 Series (XP3)
Mouse Roccat Kone XTD
Keyboard Roccat Ryos MK Pro
Software Windows 7 Pro 64
@hermesa I hope you see this message because i seach really deep in internet for describe my problem and you had the same problem with me.

Like yours, I have no lights or power when i plug in CPU and sometimes CPU and sometimes DRAM lights on when i remove CPU.

I was going to buy new CPU and RAM for test which part is broken, CPU or MoBo... But as i see you already tried it.

So I have 2 questions, if you solved your problem and answer me, i will be gratefull.

1- Did you tried your suspected CPU(Ryzen 3600) on a new MoBo? And if you did this, was your system worked?

2- If you detect that your old MoBo has short circuit, when you plug in a tester cheap CPU, that CPU is broke too after this test?

I really dont want to buy new MoBo and new CPU... So i hope your CPU is worked with new MoBo... My CPU pins are good as well.
Check your stand offs
 
Joined
Feb 15, 2024
Messages
111 (0.40/day)
System Name Mid-Range
Processor Ryzen 5 5600x
Motherboard ASUS TUF Gaming B550 Plus WiFi II
Cooling AiO LS 520 White edition(MX-6 thermal paste applied)
Memory 2x16GB DDR4 3600Mhz CL18 Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO SL
Video Card(s) RX 7700 XT Asrock Steel Legend 12GB
Storage TeamGroup Cardea A440 1TB 4gen Nvme /SSD Verbatim Vi 550 S3 512GB
Display(s) MSI G272QPF 27 inch 2560x1440p
Case NZXT H6 Flow RGB
Audio Device(s) RGB Kogaion Speakers
Power Supply EVGA Supernova G2 650Watts Gold
Mouse Redragon RGB
Keyboard Koagion RGB
VR HMD no
Software Windows 10 64bit 22H2
Benchmark Scores 25093 Superposition Benchmark 1080p medium
@hermesa I hope you see this message because i seach really deep in internet for describe my problem and you had the same problem with me.

Like yours, I have no lights or power when i plug in CPU and sometimes CPU and sometimes DRAM lights on when i remove CPU.

I was going to buy new CPU and RAM for test which part is broken, CPU or MoBo... But as i see you already tried it.

So I have 2 questions, if you solved your problem and answer me, i will be gratefull.

1- Did you tried your suspected CPU(Ryzen 3600) on a new MoBo? And if you did this, was your system worked?

2- If you detect that your old MoBo has short circuit, when you plug in a tester cheap CPU, that CPU is broke too after this test?

I really dont want to buy new MoBo and new CPU... So i hope your CPU is worked with new MoBo... My CPU pins are good as well.
Yes , the problem was in the motherboard.I short circuited it after I forgot to screw the middle(central) standoff in the case and after that I panicked and installed the wrong one -_-
I returned this mobo for RMA and surprisingly they didn't asked me anything but just sent me a new one.2 months passed until they sent me a new one ,they never told me what is wrong with the mobo.I bought 10$ cpu to try the mobo , bought another RAM stick , and they didn't worked.Until the time they sent me the new motherboard I already was on higher level parts for my personal computer and just selled all of the parts (including my old sticks of ram , cpu and the new mobo.So it was definately mine problem for shorting this mobo with wrong screws and my personal advice to you is to not buy spare pc parts to troubleshoot your mobo in case you did the same mistake with ''the screws'' like me.Just RMA it or buy a new one.
 
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