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Lian Li HydroShift LCD 360S AIO

crazyeyesreaper

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Lian Li is set to capitalize on the LCD AIO trend with the HydroShift LCD 360S. This product boasts new and innovative features, including pre-routed tubing, a simplified wiring setup, and a bright LCD panel, complementing its attractive visual aesthetic. Its solid performance and a six-year warranty further demonstrate that it's much more than a one-trick pony.

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Looks pretty decent and also much cheaper than other options with an LCD screen.
 
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Is it possible the missing manual was due to fact it was a review unit and retail units will come with manual in the box.
 
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Is it possible the missing manual was due to fact it was a review unit and retail units will come with manual in the box.

The LFIII comes with a QR code lmao maybe that's just the way these aio are going.
 
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The LFIII comes with a QR code lmao maybe that's just the way these aio are going.
Not just AIOs everything, cameras as well have gone down that route. New mirrorless cameras are much more complicated compared to DSLRs and not having a proper printed manual(these days even chargers arent bundled with none of 1st party batteries having a USB charging port) is frustrating.
 
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@crazyeyesreaper any chance you can get a modern tape measure with centimetres?
 
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Kerbs00

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While there are so many AIO with inflated prices because of using OLED, I think it's great to use standard IPS. Whoever has £500 to spend on a ROG AIO won't care about that.

Also for CONS, did you mean it ises its vendor (Lian Li's) software or is there actually third party software required?
 
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Talking about the name that's quite easily mispronounced. :D
 

crazyeyesreaper

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While there are so many AIO with inflated prices because of using OLED, I think it's great to use standard IPS. Whoever has £500 to spend on a ROG AIO won't care about that.

Also for CONS, did you mean it ises its vendor (Lian Li's) software or is there actually third party software required?
it requires the vendor ie third party software. will clarify it now.

That said tho while its requirement is understandable I myself am tired of every vendor needing their own specific rebadged shit that takes up ram / storage / CPU cycles.

For instance, Keyboard is from Corsair mouse is from Mionix well there's 2 pieces of software, GPU is MSI requires there software for functionality, Motherboard is gigabyte, so then you have that software, then if your cooler requires software add that into the mix.

5 pieces of software all take up resources and for what? 99% of it could be condensed to do the same job without the bs but nope cant have that. Obviously for some people the above problem will be worse than others. but vendors with their walled gardens and I know better than you mentality also charge more for using their ecosystems. Its honestly just tiring dealing with installing it, removing it, cleaning up the OS because of it. So yeah if it need to use software its usually just easier to use motherboard software or BIOS settings to control fan speeds, and PWM curves along with ARGB lighting etc. Obviously there are some apps out there that can supposedly do it all but that also costs more money. etc etc you can see where I am going here. THis cooler requires the software to even properly function again understandable but its still a pain no matter what.
 
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That said tho while its requirement is understandable I myself am tired of every vendor needing their own specific rebadged shit that takes up ram / storage / CPU cycles.
This.

I rarely build RGBLED PCs for people because even if I don't mind dealing with the cable spaghetti, it's the large array of shitware that all needs to be running. There's no kind way to describe any of it because the best stuff is just bad and the worst stuff is offensive, intrusive, resource-intensive and a security risk. The fact you probably need 3-6 different pieces of this shitware at once is just the cherry on top of this abysmal situation.
 
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You mentioned multiple times that "the tubing and covers can be swapped to work on either side"
I'm assuming that it can be removed totally to convert it to a normal 120 wide radiator ?
 

crazyeyesreaper

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You mentioned multiple times that "the tubing and covers can be swapped to work on either side"
I'm assuming that it can be removed totally to convert it to a normal 120 wide radiator ?
No. The way the tubing leaves the radiator is at an angle rather than straight out it either routes to the right or the left While in Theory you could use it that way It would likely take up more space than if you use the brackets and covers to keep the tubing neat and tidy. Essentially the radiator fittings are the same style as the one son the pump (swivel type)

@crazyeyesreaper any chance you can get a modern tape measure with centimetres?
1 inch is 2.54 cm or 25.4 mm. Then again I am guessing this is a question directed at the measuring of the fins per inch of the radiator. In which case its literally in the name FPI (Fins Per Inch) not Fins per 2.54 cm or 25.4 mm. lol.
 
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No. The way the tubing leaves the radiator is at an angle rather than straight out it either routes to the right or the left While in Theory you could use it that way It would likely take up more space than if you use the brackets and covers to keep the tubing neat and tidy. Essentially the radiator fittings are the same style as the one son the pump (swivel type)


1 inch is 2.54 cm or 25.4 mm. Then again I am guessing this is a question directed at the measuring of the fins per inch of the radiator. In which case its literally in the name FPI (Fins Per Inch) not Fins per 2.54 cm or 25.4 mm. lol.
It was in relation to the picture in the review showing a tape measure from the 1970's that only has inches on it.
 

crazyeyesreaper

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It was in relation to the picture in the review showing a tape measure from the 1970's that only has inches on it.
Which is only there for referencing the FPI of the radiator lol. I have different tape measures, and I'm not about to buy more tools I don't need. I got rusty stanleys, huskys, among other brands. The tape measure used in photos here is the best of the bunch with most of the markings being 100% readable. I do have one cheap one that has cm / mm listed but it's inaccurate to the point its off by about 1/16th of an inch compared to every other tape measure I own. Meaning its basically worthless junk and I only use it when I need to eyeball something but its also bent up a bit and has been heavily abused.
 
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