Accidently plugin 220V for Philips 120V water flosser, how to fix?

[nobtiba]

Hi,

I bought a Phillips water flosser from Amazon and I forgot to take note that it shipped from the US to Singapore where we have different voltage usage. I plugged it in our 220V socket but I did not hear any sound or smoke, it just did not turn on, no LED light, no working. Then I try to plug in my transformer to step down from 220V to 120V but it was still no working: no LED light, no working.
When opening the device, I see no fuse but also did not any burning sign.
Please take a look at the following photos:

How could I check it and if it is spoilt, how could I fix it please?

Thank you so much for your help!

 

[FoulOnWhite]

Check what i have marked as it is a fuse, could have blown.

 

[Readlight]

fuse, chip burned, black SMD resistors, diodes,
youtobe good place to learn soldering.
use multimeter continuety mode.

 

[Bill_Bright]

I am surprised 2 ways. (1) The 120V plug allowed you to plug it in to a 240V outlet and (2) it was not a universal power supply. Typically, products designed for use anywhere in the world already have universal power supplies. This is actually cheaper for the manufacturers because they only need to design one version of the product and (maybe) just toss in a power cord with the appropriate wall plug connector for the market region. Then the device automatically adjusts to the input voltage it sees.

Anyway, I agree with FoulOnWhite. The "F1" label would suggest that is the fuse. If handy with a solder sucker or desoldering iron, you could lift one end and test with a multimeter. If still good, you should see a short (0Ω). Just be careful to be quick. You don't want the heat from the iron to "blow" the fuse.

My old eyes cannot tell if that label says it is a 1250mA fuse, or it is T250mA and is the maker's model number. It looks like a "T" to me.

In any event, you might have voided any warranty by opening the case.

 

[nobtiba]

I used the adapter to help me to convert it to use the plug and plug in our wall socket. We often have to use this when we buy device from China or Vietnam, so I forgot to pay attention to this difference, which is a very bad mistake.
Is there any way I can test with the multi-meter without the need to use the solder to take it out and measure? I want to make sure that it is the one that is spoilt before taking it out and buying a new one to replace it. The place to buy is very far and I will go tomorrow so I want to make sure I have all the info I need to buy and fix it in one shot.

 

[Bill_Bright]

I used the adapter to help me to convert it to use the plug and plug in our wall socket.

Ah! That explains it. Thanks for clarifying.

Is there any way I can test with the multi-meter without the need to use the solder to take it out and measure?

Not conclusively. If you put the meter probes on either side of the fuse and it reads an "open", then the fuse is likely blown. But if it reads a "short", you still won't know if the fuse is good as the meter's testing voltage may be flowing through another device in the same circuit.

For that reason, fuses need to be isolated for conclusive testing.

 

[Assimilator]

If that's a fuse, it's the weirdest one I've ever seen.

 

[Bill_Bright]

If that's a fuse, it's the weirdest one I've ever seen.

Yeah, it is odd looking which is why I said the label "suggests" it is a fuse. And I have seen similar looking "fusible links" that were not fuses in the traditional sense of having a filament in a glass tube that melts "open" when too much current hits it. Still, not sure what else with 2 leads might be labeled as "F1".

 

[DR4G00N]

If I had to guess the microcontroller is probably done for. It doesn't look like it has any protections for connecting the wrong voltage, so with double the input voltage it shoves double the supply voltage to the IC.
The fuse is rated 250V T250mA (Slow blow) so I doubt that would've popped just by hooking it up to 220V.

 

[Bill_Bright]

The "T" indeed means "Timed" or slow blow. But nothing says it is rated for 250 volts (though I suspect that is correct).

250 milliamps is the current value and that is what matters most in fuse ratings.

 

[FoulOnWhite]

If that's a fuse, it's the weirdest one I've ever seen.

Look on most glass fuses, they will sat TxxxxA/MA on them.

It is a fuse, even says T250ma on it.

 

[caroline!]

Is there any way I can test with the multi-meter without the need to use the solder to take it out and measure?

Ye just measure between solder points. Measure the fuse in continuity mode. If it reads anything other than 1 it's fine, some multimeters come with a buzzer so if it beeps it's also fine. Measure the varistor as well, same way. It's the blue component next to the fuse.

For resistors you can measure with the simple continuity or any ohm range.

For diodes you'll have to know how a diode operates but quick way is put the RED probe of the multimeter in the leg of the fuse that's opposite to the grey band.

If lucky it's just the fuse, if it's the IC the repair's gonna be complicated.

 

[nobtiba]

Could I test by just short-circuiting the diode T250ma by a wire and see if the machine is working?
Here is the videos that I tried on the multi meter, not sure if I am doing right though. If the IC is spoilt, how could I replace it because I don't know which IC is it?
https://youtu.be/lnfRwIccE8c
https://youtu.be/5SgrpKi_2go

 

[joemama]

That would work if that fuse is the only thing dead

 

[caroline!]

Could I test by just short-circuiting the diode T250ma by a wire and see if the machine is working?
Here is the videos that I tried on the multi meter, not sure if I am doing right though. If the IC is spoilt, how could I replace it because I don't know which IC is it?
https://youtu.be/lnfRwIccE8c
https://youtu.be/5SgrpKi_2go

 

[nobtiba]

Sorry, updated, made the videos public!

Also as you can see in my photos, there is no mark or number, spec or anything about the MOV (U2) so I do not know if it is damaged, how could I buy the similar one to replace it?

 

[FoulOnWhite]

Sorry, updated, made the videos public!

Also as you can see in my photos, there is no mark or number, spec or anything about the MOV (U2) so I do not know if it is damaged, how could I buy the similar one to replace it?

The fuse is dead. if you have a soldering iron, you could just short it for now, and replace the fuse at some point later.

This is the kind of thing you need

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133924254207

US link

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1339242542...Qz/7CP9w2CsaVFL9E1iRXSH+2g==|tkp:BFBM3MDKzPBi

 

[lilhasselhoffer]

So...if I'm reading these traces correctly you've got AC voltage coming in. It's got a capacitor between each side to smooth out the draw, then breaks into a fuse on one side and a janky bridge rectification on the other side. Those two diodes below the large electrolytic capacitor and to the left of it seem to be turning an AC sine wave into a single sided DC wave. It's then running that with a large capacitor to turn that sine wave into a bit more of a flat voltage...but given that the motor can pulse freely they probably don't have a whole lot of concern with how smooth the voltage is.

Step 1 is to check that you haven't popped the blue capacitor, or the black fuse.

Use a multimeter in continuity mode to test the fuse. If continuous from leg to leg you're good. If not, you need it replaced.​

Use a multimeter in continuity mode to test the capacitor. Leg to leg is the opposite. If you're continuous it needs replaced as well.​

Step 2 would be to verify that there was no other damage. 0.25 amps at about 120 volts isn't a lot. The ghetto mod would be to take a paperclip, fold twice, and then solder between the fuse legs. This basically removes the fuse from the circuit...so it will damage your hardware if you overvoltage again. That said, a brief power cycle will tell you what you need to know.

Finally...are you 100% sure this is rated for your area? It looks like they took a very low cost approach to the construction of this thing. The traces are pretty thin, the components are pretty common through-board solders...and there's ton of glue. This screams to me of low cost construction...so a 220 volt 50 Hz stepped down to a 110 volt 50 Hz might have the thing act a tad bit wonky (as 110 in the US is 60 Hz). It's taking mains power, smoothing it out with what appears to be relatively large capacitance loads, and it seems like its got a ribbon cable of connectors that'd connect to a front panel with 3-6 buttons or dials to alter performance largely by altering the frequency that a MOSFET or similar would cycle on to allow for pseudo constant voltage...that little black box IC in the upper left hand corner that is literally the only brain on this entire board....as everything else is a passive component.

 

[nobtiba]

Thanks all for your support, I bought the replacement fuse (and resistors) but only by changing the fuse did the machine start functioning again.
However, I'm uncertain if it's working correctly as it shakes a lot and the pump isn't as strong as expected. It's challenging to determine if this is the intended performance or a result of my inexperience with the machine. I chose this model based on positive reviews that praised its strength and silence, but my experience has been the opposite. Nevertheless, I'm thrilled that it's operational again. Thank you all so much!

 

[Bill_Bright]

Ye just measure between solder points. Measure the fuse in continuity mode. If it reads anything other than 1 it's fine, some multimeters come with a buzzer so if it beeps it's also fine. Measure the varistor as well, same way. It's the blue component next to the fuse.

No, sorry but that is not a conclusive test. As I explained in post #6 above, fuses must be taken out of circuit for conclusive testing.

 

[caroline!]

No, sorry but that is not a conclusive test. As I explained in post #6 above, fuses must be taken out of circuit for conclusive testing.

But it worked didn't it? it was the fuse.

Thanks all for your support, I bought the replacement fuse (and resistors) but only by changing the fuse did the machine start functioning again.
However, I'm uncertain if it's working correctly as it shakes a lot and the pump isn't as strong as expected. It's challenging to determine if this is the intended performance or a result of my inexperience with the machine. I chose this model based on positive reviews that praised its strength and silence, but my experience has been the opposite. Nevertheless, I'm thrilled that it's operational again. Thank you all so much!

Shaking is normal due to the impeller, but if it shakes and rattles *too much* make sure all of the screws are fastened tight... about the strenght you sure it's a legit Philips product? though they only sold brushes and air flossers. The PCB and termination isn't what I'd expect from such a brand, but perhaps quality has gone downhill in the last years, or my standards are "too high", idk.

 

[Bill_Bright]

But it worked didn't it? it was the fuse.

Again, please see my comment in post #6. It worked this time only because the fuse was blown (open) AND there are no other devices (like a diode) in the circuit. If there was a diode, for example, the continuity checker of the meter would beep, indicating a short even if the fuse was blown. So good enough in this case, but not conclusive in all cases was my point.

Another reason to test fuses out of circuit is to protect the meter from an in-circuit capacitor where its voltage was not properly bled off.

Now one can test fuses in-circuit with power on - but this should only be done by qualified techs who know what they are doing and what to look for.

However, I'm uncertain if it's working correctly as it shakes a lot and the pump isn't as strong as expected. It's challenging to determine if this is the intended performance or a result of my inexperience with the machine.

Sadly, without knowing how it worked before the incorrect line voltage was applied, it is impossible to tell now if additional damage occurred or if that is just normal for that device. However, I agree with caroline! and some vibration is normal for all motors - some more than others. They don't put precision motors with precision bearings and a perfectly balanced impellor in such devices - that would make the flosser much more expensive than the competition and more than most consumers would want to spend for it.

 

[lilhasselhoffer]

But it worked didn't it? it was the fuse.


Shaking is normal due to the impeller, but if it shakes and rattles *too much* make sure all of the screws are fastened tight... about the strenght you sure it's a legit Philips product? though they only sold brushes and air flossers. The PCB and termination isn't what I'd expect from such a brand, but perhaps quality has gone downhill in the last years, or my standards are "too high", idk.

If you try to drive a device designed cheap for 60 Hz at 50Hz the intended voltage smoothing and the like will not be the same...this is why you can't just slap a transformer onto an outlet and claim that it'll run everything. If you'd like an example of this you can look at the above...or if you're a tad bit older you can look to VHS which took part of its speed cue from the mains frequencies.

 

[photonboy]

PROBABLY working as intended now.
The 50Hz vs 60Hz shouldn't matter. The AC just gets inverted by the diodes, then the CAPACITOR smooths that out before it goes to the rest of the circuitry which I assume is turning that into 5V? for the logic and 12V? for the pump. Just quickly looking at that design it's so simple it likely works correctly or it doesn't work at all. I can't be certain though... basic DC motors are underpowered for two main reasons: 1) the voltage is low (unlikely) or 2) some of the windings have failed (also unlikely as you'd smell them burn).

Otherwise, there'd need to be some LOGIC fail but I'd expect a logic chip to completely fail in a case like this. So I'd guess the FUSE was the only issue.

 

[Chrispy_]

PROBABLY working as intended now.
The 50Hz vs 60Hz shouldn't matter. The AC just gets inverted by the diodes, then the CAPACITOR smooths that out before it goes to the rest of the circuitry which I assume is turning that into 5V? for the logic and 12V? for the pump. Just quickly looking at that design it's so simple it likely works correctly or it doesn't work at all. I can't be certain though... basic DC motors are underpowered for two main reasons: 1) the voltage is low (unlikely) or 2) some of the windings have failed (also unlikely as you'd smell them burn).

Otherwise, there'd need to be some LOGIC fail but I'd expect a logic chip to completely fail in a case like this. So I'd guess the FUSE was the only issue.

The size of the capacitor is likely tuned to smooth 60Hz, it's an important factor when choosing capacitors for AC smoothing via rectifier bridge or IC. I'm not a pro-electrician but I did spend a year at university designing circuits.