Asus Proart PA602 Compatibility with Corsair RM1200X Shift

[djslam21]

Currently ordered the Asus Proart PA602 case and RM1200x shift but I was watching reviews and I realized there is so little space for PSU cables. Has anyone have this Setup?

Also dont ask me why I bought 1200W PSU cause it was in discount on Amazonand I saved my money for ages . Also 1200W PSU prices are same as 1000W in my country and I want it to use it in future. Corsair is around 330€ and FSP Products are around 250€

Also what are the advantages of Platinium over Gold PSUs?

If it doesnt fit in case I have 3 more options. Any of this 3 better than Corsair RM1000x Shift ?

ASUS TUF Gaming 1200G 80+ GOLD 1200W ATX 3.0

2)FSP Hydro G PRO 1000W 80+ Gold ATX 3.0 PCIe 5.0

3) FSP Hydro PTM PRO ATX3.0 GEN-5 (PCIe5.0) 1200W 80+ Platinum

My favourite is 3rd one over Corsair if it doesnt fit and also people say FSP is making PSU for mostly humid areas ?

Where I live in summer has &60-90 humidity.

 

[Bill_Bright]

What I don't understand is why you bought an EATX case. Hardly anyone needs an EATX case. Most don't even need a full tower. Even most normal size mid-towers will support EATX motherboards, 5 or more drives, 6 or more expansion cards, liquid cooling and lots of case fans.

Oh well.

Also what are the advantages of Platinium over Gold PSUs?

Negligible. At 50% load, the Gold is 90% efficient while the Platinum is 92%. It takes YEARS of use to make up in energy savings the typical higher cost of a Platinum PSU. IMO, Platinum is not worth it unless you just happen to find it at a great, discounted sale price.

Some Platinum may have a longer warranty. but I note many Golds still have very long 10 year warranties, which is longer than most people keep a PC.

Where I live in summer has &60-90 humidity.

Unless literally "dripping wet" humidity has zero effect on the cooling of electronics. It only affects how it "feels" to us living beings. And if your computer sits in a room that is air conditioned, the humidity matters even less on cooling.

 

[djslam21]

What I don't understand is why you bought an EATX case. Hardly anyone needs an EATX case. Most don't even need a full tower. Even most normal size mid-towers will support EATX motherboards, 5 or more drives, 6 or more expansion cards, liquid cooling and lots of case fans.

Oh well.


Negligible. At 50% load, the Gold is 90% efficient while the Platinum is 92%. It takes YEARS of use to make up in energy savings the typical higher cost of a Platinum PSU. IMO, Platinum is not worth it unless you just happen to find it at a great, discounted sale price.

Some Platinum may have a longer warranty. but I note many Golds still have very long 10 year warranties, which is longer than most people keep a PC.


Unless literally "dripping wet" humidity has zero effect on the cooling of electronics. It only affects how it "feels" to us living beings. And if your computer sits in a room that is air conditioned, the humidity matters even less on cooling.

The reason I bought lt was came with 60$ discount. Even cheaper than most mid tower fish tanks

 

[_roman_]

Negligible. At 50% load, the Gold is 90% efficient while the Platinum is 92%.

That is your opinion.

Also what are the advantages of Platinium over Gold PSUs?

I suggest you look for those efficiency curves.

I'm only interested in the 230V AC one, not the 110V AC one, from 1 Watts to 100 Watts on the output. Those graph is nearly never measured. And has usually the worst efficiency.

Efficiency matters for the Wattage your box will usually run in. Zero Fan mode of the power supply unit also matters.

I will not explain whats the difference in those percents from the efficiency curve and why it's the most important value of a power supply unit.

I had a defective Corsair RM750 power supply unit with random issues. Random issues until I bought an enermax power supply unit - tested it and all the issues were gone. My enermax power supply unit according to the test i read is close to the titanium standard.#

EATX case

I would ignore that.

I bought a "b-Grade", german b-ware, fractal design meshify 2 case. The reason i bought it was the price. No idea where the optical defects were. I did not found any.

Also what are the advantages of Platinium over Gold PSUs?

If it doesnt fit in case I have 3 more options. Any of this 3 better than Corsair RM1000x Shift ?

Please check those power supply tier lists. You have to look for those. There were people who graded power supply units and gave recommendations for those.

there are also psu tests. Look for those and than make your decissions.

 

[djslam21]

That is your opinion.



I suggest you look for those efficiency curves.

I'm only interested in the 230V AC one, not the 110V AC one, from 1 Watts to 100 Watts on the output. Those graph is nearly never measured. And has usually the worst efficiency.

Efficiency matters for the Wattage your box will usually run in. Zero Fan mode of the power supply unit also matters.

I will not explain whats the difference in those percents from the efficiency curve and why it's the most important value of a power supply unit.

I had a defective Corsair RM750 power supply unit with random issues. Random issues until I bought an enermax power supply unit - tested it and all the issues were gone. My enermax power supply unit according to the test i read is close to the titanium standard.#



I would ignore that.

I bought a "b-Grade", german b-ware, fractal design meshify 2 case. The reason i bought it was the price. No idea where the optical defects were. I did not found any.



Please check those power supply tier lists. You have to look for those. There were people who graded power supply units and gave recommendations for those.

there are also psu tests. Look for those and than make your decissions.

Will do that ty

 

[Toothless]

That is your opinion.



I suggest you look for those efficiency curves.

I'm only interested in the 230V AC one, not the 110V AC one, from 1 Watts to 100 Watts on the output. Those graph is nearly never measured. And has usually the worst efficiency.

Efficiency matters for the Wattage your box will usually run in. Zero Fan mode of the power supply unit also matters.

I will not explain whats the difference in those percents from the efficiency curve and why it's the most important value of a power supply unit.

I had a defective Corsair RM750 power supply unit with random issues. Random issues until I bought an enermax power supply unit - tested it and all the issues were gone. My enermax power supply unit according to the test i read is close to the titanium standard.#



I would ignore that.

I bought a "b-Grade", german b-ware, fractal design meshify 2 case. The reason i bought it was the price. No idea where the optical defects were. I did not found any.



Please check those power supply tier lists. You have to look for those. There were people who graded power supply units and gave recommendations for those.

there are also psu tests. Look for those and than make your decissions.

You can literally look at reviews and see around the 50% mark has the highest efficiency. Bill isn't stating an opinion when it's a fact.

 

[_roman_]

Please check the hole curves and other parameters. Usually those tier lists and power supply tests from certain sites will explain that.

When your computer always run with 50% load of the power supply than it may be valid. = your opinion.

I had myself also a totally wrong idea about my idle consumption of certain parts. (I was wrong around 30Watts in idle)
I'll not reveal the brand or the product. I was a beta tester for a wifi measurement plug for the 230V AC line. Therefore i took some minutes to check my computer and those single peripherals connected to it.

 

[djslam21]

Is it really important to have atx 3.0?
When I check rm1200x shift it doesnt show in websites

 

[Toothless]

Is it really important to have atx 3.0?
When I check rm1200x shift it doesnt show in websites

3.0 is fine for most people. Some aim for 3.1 since GPUs are power hogs.

 

[djslam21]

Hope getting the case tomorrow I will install the psu and let people know

 

[_roman_]

ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1 are "kinda similar". As far as I know these have better or reduced specs to previous standards and come with the newer nvidia graphic card power supply plug. (I think there are lots of tech articles about that nvidia graphic card plug and the atx 3.0 and atx 3.1 standard) If you do not intend to use a nvidia graphic card you may ignore ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1

 

[djslam21]

Anyway I got the case delivered today and the gap is huge. You can easily put a screwdriver in there and forget it lol

Think I am the first one got this combo hope it helps to other ppl.

 

[Bill_Bright]

That is your opinion.

It is not my opinion. It is fact - based on simple mathematics and the cost of a kiloWatt hour of energy.

I'm only interested in the 230V AC one, not the 110V AC one, from 1 Watts to 100 Watts on the output. Those graph is nearly never measured. And has usually the worst efficiency.

It does not matter what you are only interested in. The results are similar either way. But just for you, I'll show you below using the 230V EU Internal certs criteria.

I will not explain whats the difference in those percents from the efficiency curve and why it's the most important value of a power supply unit.

When your computer always run with 50% load of the power supply than it may be valid. = your opinion.

You "can't" explain it because clearly you do not understand it. Your 50% load comment clearly shows that you don't understand what the 80 PLUS certification program is all about.

YOU are the one that needs to look at the curves. And you need to learn the difference between the Gold and Platinum certification standards. As clearly seen here,

Gold certification​

Percent Loading 20%, Efficiency 90%​

Percent Loading 50%, Efficiency 92%​

Percent Loading 100%, Efficiency 89%​

​

Platinum certification​

Percent Loading 20%, Efficiency 92%​

Percent Loading 50%, Efficiency 94%​

Percent Loading 100%, Efficiency 90%​

2% difference in efficiency is the maximum difference.

You are only interested in 1 to 100W consumption? Fine. To illustrate, let's use a pair of 500W supplies, one Gold and the other Platinum, both with the exact same 20%, 100W load. The Gold is 90% efficient, the Platinum is 92%.

What does that mean?

Do the math.

That means to support a 100W load the Gold is going to pull from the wall ~111W (111 x .9 = 99.9W). The Platinum is going to pull from the wall ~108.6W (108.6 x .92 = 99.912W). The extra wattage above the 100W load is wasted in the form of heat.

So the difference in power used with a 100W load is 111 - 108.6 for a grand total of 2.4W.

@_roman_ I say again, if you do the math you will see the difference in power consumption between a Gold 500W supply and a Platinum 500W with the exact same 100W load is just 2.4W!

What does that mean in cost savings? Again, do the math.

I'll make it easy for us. Pretend the 2.4W is a nightlight you leave on 24 hours per day for an entire year. And, using the average cost of a kWh in the United States of $0.17 per kWh, you can use this Night Light Energy Calculator and see for yourself that it would cost a whopping $3.57 per year for that extra 2.4W consumption of continuous 24/7/365 operation.

But who runs their computer continuously 24/7 at a constant load? Not even always-on servers do that. 6 hours a day is probably not realistic. But, again to illustrate, using 6 hours per day, 365 days per year with your 100W load, it is less than $1 in energy savings for a whole year between a Gold PSU and a typically more expensive Platinum. If the Platinum cost just $10 more, it would still take more than 10 years to make up the cost difference.

what are the advantages of Platinium over Gold PSUs?

Negligible. At 50% load, the Gold is 90% efficient while the Platinum is 92%.

It takes YEARS of use to make up in energy savings the typical higher cost of a Platinum PSU.

That is your opinion.

No. Those are the facts. Again, it would take years to make up the added cost of a Platinum in energy savings over a Gold unless, as I said above, "you just happen to find it at a great, discounted sale price."

One more important point. 80 PLUS certifications are about efficiencies only. There is absolutely nothing in the 80 PLUS certification program that requires or suggests a supply with a higher certification is of higher quality in terms of voltage regulation, ripple suppression, in-rush current suppression, or reliability.

 

[dirtyferret]

ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1 are "kinda similar". As far as I know these have better or reduced specs to previous standards and come with the newer nvidia graphic card power supply plug. (I think there are lots of tech articles about that nvidia graphic card plug and the atx 3.0 and atx 3.1 standard) If you do not intend to use a nvidia graphic card you may ignore ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1

changes to the PSU
ATX 3.1 is step back in hold up time, 17ms to 12ms
change is on the header PCB if it did not use 2x8 or native cable (those are automatically 3.1 assuming alreadt 3.0)
cable & "plug" end remain the same, header end changes in specific modular units (see above line)
some transient response time spec lowered in smaller wattage units

I will not explain whats the difference in those percents from the efficiency curve and why it's the most important value of a power supply unit.

OK, than why argue about it with Bill?

I had a defective Corsair RM750 power supply unit with random issues. Random issues until I bought an enermax power supply unit - tested it and all the issues were gone. My enermax power supply unit according to the test i read is close to the titanium standard.#

Great, not sure what that has to do with the price of tea in China?

Please check those power supply tier lists. You have to look for those. There were people who graded power supply units and gave recommendations for those.

Tier lists are not done by people who "review" PSU but rather by people of varying understanding of PSU who aggregate and regurgitate reviews in to their own personal lists (many with bias flaws)

lso people say FSP is making PSU for mostly humid areas

I think you are confusing their "Hydro" marketing line. FSP is a fine OEM but does not specialize in PSU for humid areas any more or any less thane other OEMs

 

[Bill_Bright]

ATX 3.1 is step back in hold up time, 17ms to 12ms

In part, this is true.

It dropped from 17ms to 12ms for 100% loads. It is still a minimum of 17ms for 80% or less loads. I think it disappointing they lowered the standard, but even more disappointing is the reason. They lowered the standard because too many otherwise capable supplies kept failing to hold up power 17ms at maximum loads.

Still, this lowering the bar should not affect most users - especially if we do our homework before buying. We should NEVER buy a supply with a power capacity so low, it would frequently (if ever) hit 100% load. Ideally, we should size our PSUs so they sit at or below 50 to 60% load the vast majority of the time. Leaving such a generous headroom ensures there is plenty of buffer space for transients and future minor HW upgrades. It also helps ensure the PSU's cooling will be able to "loaf" along and provide sufficient cooling while making less (preferably no) fan noise.

I will note, however, that most half-way decent UPS with AVR can easily detect power anomalies and adjust/regulate output or, if necessary, cut-over to backup power in 10ms or less. So, assuming everything is functioning properly, even at 100% load and only 12ms, there "should not" be any interruptions if we support our sensitive electronics with a "good" UPS with AVR.

 

[dirtyferret]

It dropped from 17ms to 12ms for 100% loads. It is still a minimum of 17ms for 80% or less loads

true but under Intel's words it's "recommended" as opposed to 12ms @ 100% is "required"

Criteria	REQUIRED	RECOMMENDED
Output Loading	100% of Full Load	80% of Full Load
Time (T5 + T6)	12 ms	17 ms

 

[Bill_Bright]

Yeah - all the more reason to use a good UPS with AVR on all our systems.

 

[djslam21]

Ya'll real goats man. My brain literally melted