Broken power supply switch

hat · Jul 3, 2021

So, the switch on my secondary computer's power supply is borked. It's essentially stuck in the off position. If I try to turn it on, it doesn't click over, and flops back to the off position. What are my options? I'm planning on upgrading the entire thing eventually, so I'm not in a rush to just buy a whole new power supply right now.

xcescxa · Jul 3, 2021

You could just buy a new switch? I mean there like cheap, and just replace the old one and solder the contacts of the 2 wires that were connected to the old one to the new one.
I took electronics class before. Basic of what a switch looks like. Lmao solved?

Bill_Bright · Jul 3, 2021

Can we assume the warranty has expired?

I agree with IrishChrispy. It should not be too hard to find a switch. The challenge is to make sure it is physically identical but they really are very common so that should not be hard. The electrical characteristics should be printed on the old switch but typically they are rated for 125 to 250V. Current capability varies depending on PSU size. You can always go bigger - do not go smaller. They are all "single pole" (hence the two wire connectors). See: Power Supply Rocker Switches | Products & Suppliers | Engineering360 (globalspec.com)

As seen by the image above, most just snap in. So to remove the old you have to squeeze the retainer clips, then push it out.

Obviously, unplug from the wall before doing anything. "In theory", any residual voltages inside the PSU "should" be bled off to safe levels after just a couple seconds. But never assume theory and real-world jive. So once unplugged from the wall and you open the PSU case, BEFORE sticking your fingers in there, I recommend taking a long screwdriver and short each of the big filter capacitor's terminals to each other and/or to the case. Then you can proceed.

Though NOT recommended, you don't really need that switch and you can just join (solder then shrink-wrap the joint) the two wires together. Many early and budget PSUs don't even have those master power switches. To completely power off and remove power from your computer, you just unplug from the wall. However, if you go this route, I recommend you up your priority/time table and buy your new replacement PSU now. Then just use this PSU as a temporary spare until the new one arrives, then save this one as a temporary spare/test PSU you keep on the shelf.

eidairaman1 · Jul 3, 2021

If out of warranty, Buy a toggle that is rated for the current and voltage of the psu and have it soldered

jaggerwild · Jul 3, 2021

hat said:
So, the switch on my secondary computer's power supply is borked. It's essentially stuck in the off position. If I try to turn it on, it doesn't click over, and flops back to the off position. What are my options? I'm planning on upgrading the entire thing eventually, so I'm not in a rush to just buy a whole new power supply right now.

Check on E bay for the same model but not working (make sure to ask if the switch is good) there a dime a dozen....

System Name	Starlifter :: Dragonfly
Processor	i7 2600k 4.4GHz :: i5 10400
Motherboard	ASUS P8P67 Pro :: ASUS Prime H570-Plus
Cooling	Cryorig M9 :: Stock
Memory	4x4GB DDR3 2133 :: 2x8GB DDR4 2400
Video Card(s)	PNY GTX1070 :: Integrated UHD 630
Storage	Crucial MX500 1TB, 2x1TB Seagate RAID 0 :: Mushkin Enhanced 60GB SSD, 3x4TB Seagate HDD RAID5
Display(s)	Onn 165hz 1080p :: Acer 1080p
Case	Antec SOHO 1030B :: Old White Full Tower
Audio Device(s)	Creative X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Pro - Bose Companion 2 Series III :: None
Power Supply	FSP Hydro GE 550w :: EVGA Supernova 550
Software	Windows 10 Pro - Plex Server on Dragonfly
Benchmark Scores	>9000

System Name	Black Diamond
Processor	AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 6-Core Processor 3.80 GHz
Motherboard	msi a320 a pro max
Cooling	Default
Memory	32 GB ddr4 3200mhz
Video Card(s)	Rtx 2070, 86 F no extra fans or stuff.
Storage	nvme samsung (the fastest one) 1tb
Display(s)	Some sceptre monitor and a tv
Case	rosewill
Power Supply	rosewill
Mouse	Verbatim
Keyboard	Magic wings
Software	Lots
Benchmark Scores	IDk

System Name	Brightworks Systems BWS-6 E-IV
Processor	Intel Core i5-6600 @ 3.9GHz
Motherboard	Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 Rev 1.0
Cooling	Quality case, 2 x Fractal Design 140mm fans, stock CPU HSF
Memory	32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4 3000 Corsair Vengeance
Video Card(s)	EVGA GEForce GTX 1050Ti 4Gb GDDR5
Storage	Samsung 850 Pro 256GB SSD, Samsung 860 Evo 500GB SSD
Display(s)	Samsung S24E650BW LED x 2
Case	Fractal Design Define R4
Power Supply	EVGA Supernova 550W G2 Gold
Mouse	Logitech M190
Keyboard	Microsoft Wireless Comfort 5050
Software	W10 Pro 64-bit

System Name	PCGOD
Processor	AMD FX 8350@ 5.0GHz
Motherboard	Asus TUF 990FX Sabertooth R2 2901 Bios
Cooling	Scythe Ashura, 2×BitFenix 230mm Spectre Pro LED (Blue,Green), 2x BitFenix 140mm Spectre Pro LED
Memory	16 GB Gskill Ripjaws X 2133 (2400 OC, 10-10-12-20-20, 1T, 1.65V)
Video Card(s)	AMD Radeon 290 Sapphire Vapor-X
Storage	Samsung 840 Pro 256GB, WD Velociraptor 1TB
Display(s)	NEC Multisync LCD 1700V (Display Port Adapter)
Case	AeroCool Xpredator Evil Blue Edition
Audio Device(s)	Creative Labs Sound Blaster ZxR
Power Supply	Seasonic 1250 XM2 Series (XP3)
Mouse	Roccat Kone XTD
Keyboard	Roccat Ryos MK Pro
Software	Windows 7 Pro 64

Processor	5930K
Motherboard	MSI X99 SLI
Cooling	WATER
Memory	16GB DDR4 2132
Video Card(s)	EVGAY 2070 SUPER
Storage	SEVERAL SSD"S
Display(s)	Catleap/Yamakasi 2560X1440
Case	D Frame MINI drilled out
Audio Device(s)	onboard
Power Supply	Corsair TX750
Mouse	DEATH ADDER
Keyboard	Razer Black Widow Tournament
Software	W10HB
Benchmark Scores	PhIlLyChEeSeStEaK

Broken power supply switch

hat

Enthusiast

xcescxa

Bill_Bright

eidairaman1

The Exiled Airman

jaggerwild