FIDECO USB 3.0 to SATA or IDE Adapter, Hard Drive Adapter for 2.5 or 3.5 inches SATA or IDE HDD SSD, Hard Drive Converter with 12V Power Adapter, Supp

[Greenslade]

Clone version.
Can you wipe a drive without cloning?
Or is this device just for cloning?

I want to wIpe IDE drives.
I do like the idea of having a cloning device.
If i can wipe a IDE drive without cloneing.

 

[TheoneandonlyMrK]

They tend not to have that option but that's different from the three I've owned so it's possible but unlikely.

 

[Greenslade]

They tend not to have that option but that's different from the three I've owned so it's possible but unlikely.

Thanks for your answer TheoneandonlyMrK It was not the answer i was hoping
for.though.I did ask the question on Amazon

 

[Bill_Bright]

Can you wipe a drive without cloning?

Of course you can!

Understand that "wiping" a drive is simply writing a bunch of random 1s and 0s to every storage location on the drive, effectively obliterating any data previously stored in those locations.

"Cloning" is exactly copying all the data from drive 1 to drive 2. Those are two, entirely different, and independent operations.

NOTHING about that device says you have to use the cloning function - which would require you connect 2 drives to the device.

All you need to do is connect the adapter to a working computer, then connect the drive you want to "wipe" to the adapter. At that point, you should be able to "see" the attached SATA or IDE drive in Windows' File Explorer. Then run your wipe program on the attached drive. Piece of cake.

There are several wipe programs out there. You may already have one. Note for the vast majority of users with Windows 10/11, a simple "Full" (NOT "Quick" but "Full") format is plenty good enough. A "Full" format will sufficiently clear any previously saved data preventing anyone from accidently stumbling on any previously saved data. AND it will prevent all but very well funded, professional bad guys who have targeted your drive and are actively trying to recover any previously saved data. And do understand, even if a professional bad guy is able to recover any data, it will be like trying to re-assemble a single page from multiple large documents that have been run through a shredder, and half the shredder's bin has already been incinerated!!!

After that, it is important to remember that AS SOON AS the drive is used again, and programs are installed, temporary files are saved to disk, and file tables are written, disk storage locations are being overwritten yet again, making any chances of recovery even more impossible.

My point is, if you know where any of these drives are going, and know they will not end up with a well funded professional (like the FBI, FSB, big drug cartel), you really don't need to "wipe" them. Just do a "Full" format.

Alternatively, you can simply erase the entire disk with File Manager, or from a command prompt from the "root directory" of the target drive. For example, if the drive has been assigned the drive letter "g", you can enter the command del g: *.* /s then press enter. The *.* selects all files and the /s includes all subdirectories. Just be careful to ensure you are using the correct drive letter.

Once all the files have been deleted, simply fill the drive up with files. Large music or video files work great for that. Do that a couple times and you have, for the most part, "wiped" the drive. Only instead of "random" 1s and 0s, it is with music or video 1s and 0s. Either way, not your sensitive data.

HOWEVER, if still uncomfortable with that, I recommend CCleaner's "Drive Wiper" tool. It is very effective. Selecting the "Simple Overwrite (1 pass)" option is more than sufficient. If paranoid (or you have no clue whose hands the drive may end up in), select "Advanced Overwrite (3 passes)".

If you are tin-foil hat wearing paranoid, go for "Complex Overwrite (7 passes)". But if you feel you need to select the "Very Complex Overwrite (35 passes)", you need to seek professional help! You need it. This option provide zero extra protection and is very effective at wearing out your drive motors.

"IF" by some really sad chance that specific Fideco device does not let you simply attach and see/access a drive without using the clone option, "invest" in a standard, very inexpensive, IDE/SATA to USB 2.0 adapter cable w/power adapter. I keep one in my tool bag for house calls for just such purposes.

Note there are times when a drive if faulty and cannot be accessed. If there is very sensitive information on the drive a professional spy or law enforcement agency may be interested in, find the nearest hard drive shredder in your area and have the drive destroyed.

Last, wiping only works with mechanical "hard" drives. You cannot "wipe" a SSD. SSD's must be "sanitized" or have a "secure erase" procedure run on them. Most (if not all) SSD makers have such a utility you can download from their site. For example, Samsung has their Samsung Magician utility which has a Secure Erase feature.

 

[Greenslade]

Of course you can!

Understand that "wiping" a drive is simply writing a bunch of random 1s and 0s to every storage location on the drive, effectively obliterating any data previously stored in those locations.

"Cloning" is exactly copying all the data from drive 1 to drive 2. Those are two, entirely different, and independent operations.

NOTHING about that device says you have to use the cloning function - which would require you connect 2 drives to the device.

All you need to do is connect the adapter to a working computer, then connect the drive you want to "wipe" to the adapter. At that point, you should be able to "see" the attached SATA or IDE drive in Windows' File Explorer. Then run your wipe program on the attached drive. Piece of cake.

There are several wipe programs out there. You may already have one. Note for the vast majority of users with Windows 10/11, a simple "Full" (NOT "Quick" but "Full") format is plenty good enough. A "Full" format will sufficiently clear any previously saved data preventing anyone from accidently stumbling on any previously saved data. AND it will prevent all but very well funded, professional bad guys who have targeted your drive and are actively trying to recover any previously saved data. And do understand, even if a professional bad guy is able to recover any data, it will be like trying to re-assemble a single page from multiple large documents that have been run through a shredder, and half the shredder's bin has already been incinerated!!!

After that, it is important to remember that AS SOON AS the drive is used again, and programs are installed, temporary files are saved to disk, and file tables are written, disk storage locations are being overwritten yet again, making any chances of recovery even more impossible.

My point is, if you know where any of these drives are going, and know they will not end up with a well funded professional (like the FBI, FSB, big drug cartel), you really don't need to "wipe" them. Just do a "Full" format.

Alternatively, you can simply erase the entire disk with File Manager, or from a command prompt from the "root directory" of the target drive. For example, if the drive has been assigned the drive letter "g", you can enter the command del g: *.* /s then press enter. The *.* selects all files and the /s includes all subdirectories. Just be careful to ensure you are using the correct drive letter.

Once all the files have been deleted, simply fill the drive up with files. Large music or video files work great for that. Do that a couple times and you have, for the most part, "wiped" the drive. Only instead of "random" 1s and 0s, it is with music or video 1s and 0s. Either way, not your sensitive data.

HOWEVER, if still uncomfortable with that, I recommend CCleaner's "Drive Wiper" tool. It is very effective. Selecting the "Simple Overwrite (1 pass)" option is more than sufficient. If paranoid (or you have no clue whose hands the drive may end up in), select "Advanced Overwrite (3 passes)".

If you are tin-foil hat wearing paranoid, go for "Complex Overwrite (7 passes)". But if you feel you need to select the "Very Complex Overwrite (35 passes)", you need to seek professional help! You need it. This option provide zero extra protection and is very effective at wearing out your drive motors.

"IF" by some really sad chance that specific Fideco device does not let you simply attach and see/access a drive without using the clone option, "invest" in a standard, very inexpensive, IDE/SATA to USB 2.0 adapter cable w/power adapter. I keep one in my tool bag for house calls for just such purposes.

Note there are times when a drive if faulty and cannot be accessed. If there is very sensitive information on the drive a professional spy or law enforcement agency may be interested in, find the nearest hard drive shredder in your area and have the drive destroyed.

Last, wiping only works with mechanical "hard" drives. You cannot "wipe" a SSD. SSD's must be "sanitized" or have a "secure erase" procedure run on them. Most (if not all) SSD makers have such a utility you can download from their site. For example, Samsung has their Samsung Magician utility which has a Secure Erase feature.

I don.t know what is on that drive , you are right what i should have said was format.I will buy the Cloneing version. I do fancy haveing the Clonening operaration if i do need it in the future.The non clone version below.Thanks once again for your info.

 

[Bill_Bright]

what i should have said was format

Well, the drive has to be formatted before it can store data. If not formatted, no need to wipe since it will not contain any data.

 

[Greenslade]

Well, the drive has to be formatted before it can store data. If not formatted, no need to wipe since it will not contain any data.

I get your point there. this is the replay i got fr0m utube
*Hey! It is for accessing any device that has Sata or IDE through the computer, it is not only for cloning. It aslo has an offline Cloning option that doesnt even require a computer connection.*Format is what i ment

 

[Bill_Bright]

It is for accessing any device that has Sata or IDE through the computer, it is not only for cloning.

Right. This was my point when I said above,

NOTHING about that device says you have to use the cloning function - which would require you connect 2 drives to the device.

All you need to do is connect the adapter to a working computer, then connect the drive you want to "wipe" to the adapter. At that point, you should be able to "see" the attached SATA or IDE drive in Windows' File Explorer. Then run your wipe program on the attached drive. Piece of cake.

Note this feature (the ability to simply access a drive) can be real useful if you have several old drives laying around and want to either see what is on them, back up some data to them, reformat them, wipe them, or to make sure there is no sensitive data on them before disposing of them.

 

[Greenslade]

Right. This was my point when I said above,
Note this feature (the ability to simply access a drive) can be real useful if you have several old drives laying around and want to either see what is on them, back up some data to them, reformat them, wipe them, or to make sure there is no sensitive data on them before disposing of them.

I got this one Bill open box £20 it also has one click backup, instead of the Clone one i was going to get which was £8 more.

Allow to operate three HDDs Simultaneously. Data transfer rates up to 5 Gbps, backward compatible with USB 2.0/1.1. I dobut it as Phil says in his video about another make.I hope it can do all what our mate Phil says in this video.I will br happy

i know UGREEN is a top make.

 

[Bill_Bright]

I generally prefer backup over clone anyway. Clones are great if you need to setup 10 identical computers at once. But the problem with clones is they make identical copies of corrupt files too.