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Have I killed my NVMe?

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Hi, I'm really desperate for some help. Please take the time to read this!
Yesterday, I downsized my ATX build into a Mini-ITX build. The only parts that I kept from my previous build were my CPU, RAM, GPU and NVme drive, all the other parts were brand new. (Just to note, I have checked all the QVL for my motherboard and all the parts were listed as compatible)

I asked around if I needed to wipe/format my NVme drive prior to uninstalling it from my old build and installing it into my new build, and I was told that was a thing of the past and with the newer NVmes, you could just unplug from one PC and into another.
So I did just that, however I couldn't get windows to start, and I couldn't troubleshoot with start up repair etc. So I decided to wipe the NVme through the BIOS and reinstall windows from a USB, I had no problems installing windows, chipset drivers, motherboard drivers and GPU drivers etc once I had wiped the NVme.

So I started installing all my games, browsers, programmes etc that I needed. It was getting quite late and I thought I will do a stability test and run some games tomorrow.

So I woke up this morning, an ran Fortnite, as it was installed and it crashed and I saw the blue screen of death for a split second and my PC turned off, and booted back up and went straight into BIOS, I noticed that my NVme wasn't appearing as my bootable drive in the BIOS, I turned off the pc and turned it back on a it booted back up. I did the same thing and booted up the game and the same thing happened, the mouse cursor also moves very slowly and glitchy when this happens. I couldn't see the code on the blue screen as it was literally there for 0.1 second. I then decided not to run any games and started installing other programmes such as hwmonitor etc, however I decided to start recording my screen with my phone camera to try and catch the blue screen. I have provided an image below of both the screen and my BIOS not displaying my NVme.

All help appreciated!
PC SPEC:
AMD Ryzen 9 3900X
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rma the ssd.
 
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Have you looked up the Critical Process code?
 
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it is dead.
you have done nothing wrong.
i have 2 of those ssds (their seral numbers was consequent) one is working fine the other died 2 months ago out of nowhere. sent it back to samsung. got replacement 1 week later.
 
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it is dead.
you have done nothing wrong.
i have 2 of those ssds (their seral numbers was consequent) one is working fine the other died 2 months ago out of nowhere. sent it back to samsung. got replacement 1 week later.
If I get a new one through RMA, just wondering because this is only my second build ever. Would I need to do anything to the previous on or can I just plug this one out and plug in new? Is it that simple?

it is dead.
you have done nothing wrong.
i have 2 of those ssds (their seral numbers was consequent) one is working fine the other died 2 months ago out of nowhere. sent it back to samsung. got replacement 1 week later.
And if it is dead, why after it goes into bios after blue screen and I restart it does it start working again?
 
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If I get a new one through RMA, just wondering because this is only my second build ever. Would I need to do anything to the previous on or can I just plug this one out and plug in new? Is it that simple?
in my case samsung rep requested to send it back to them. they've organized courier to pick it up from me. when it arrived they've contacted me for delivery address. few days later i got the replacement.
then it is standard procedure. install it in MB. install windows, drivers, dl games etc.
 
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in my case samsung rep requested to send it back to them. they've organized courier to pick it up from me. when it arrived they've contacted me for delivery address. few days later i got the replacement.
then it is standard procedure. install it in MB. install windows, drivers, dl games etc.
If it is dead, then I don’t understand why after it crashes with blue screen and goes into bios, once I restart it, it starts working properly, boots up and shows under boot on bios until it crashes again, which goes back to it not being displayed in bios under boot. Sorry I’m not very experienced and might be asking a noob question
 
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And if it is dead, why after it goes into bios after blue screen and I restart it does it start working again?
hm didnt saw it booted after second restart. usually if ssd doesnt show up in bios it is dead. but in your case the problem is different
do you have samsung magician installed https://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/minisite/ssd/product/consumer/magician/
try run ssd diagnostic with it.
also try if the problem occurs with other games or it is only with fortnite
 
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hm didnt saw it booted after second restart. usually if ssd doesnt show up in bios it is dead. but in your case the problem is different
do you have samsung magician installed https://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/minisite/ssd/product/consumer/magician/
try run ssd diagnostic with it.
also try if the problem occurs with other games or it is only with fortnite
Okay here is where I’m at, I just updated the BIOS to the latest update. I used my computer for browsing etc and no crashes. I load up fortnite which is the only major game I have installed and after around 3-4 mins of playing blue screen with code “critical process died” then black screen and onto ASUS logo screen but this time doesn’t go into bios. Hard reboot pc from power button and turn it back on and pc starts as normal, however when I sign in mouse cursor lags and can’t open anything and turns back off. I am so confused

hm didnt saw it booted after second restart. usually if ssd doesnt show up in bios it is dead. but in your case the problem is different
do you have samsung magician installed https://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/minisite/ssd/product/consumer/magician/
try run ssd diagnostic with it.
also try if the problem occurs with other games or it is only with fortnite
do you know what EDC CPU means on Ryzen master and could it be the problem?
 

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edc is the current cpu pulls atm
check windows power plan and set it to balanced.
also try run gpuz 3d test (press question mark next to bus interface)

what is your psu.
add your system specs here https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/account/specs
 
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edc is the current cpu pulls atm
check windows power plan and set it to balanced.
also try run gpuz 3d test (press question mark next to bus interface)

what is your psu.
add your system specs here https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/account/specs
I will try that when I’m home, probably update you tomorrow.

Corsair SF600, I did think maybe 600W was low, however I watched an optimum tech video on YouTube in which he paired an over clocked 10th gen i9 with a 3080 and said it was fine, so I bought that one as sf750 was out of stock. From what I’ve gathered it only crashes when I play games. Nothing else.
 
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600w is fine for your setup however it is modular psu so you may check if all cables are properly plugged at both ends.
itx cases are quite tiny and it isnt easy to fit all cables
 
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600w is fine for your setup however it is modular psu so you may check if all cables are properly plugged at both ends.
itx cases are quite tiny and it isnt easy to fit all cables
I will definitely check this and report back to you tomorrow! Thank you.
 
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why does nobody say to you that you really should check the SMART values for that SSD?

btw.. do that. (Crystaldiskinfo for example)
 
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why does nobody say to you that you really should check the SMART values for that SSD?

btw.. do that. (Crystaldiskinfo for example)
Could you please explain how I go about doing this and what it does? I’m not that technical. Do you think it’s the SSD? Even though it only happens during games?
 
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Could you please explain how I go about doing this and what it does? I’m not that technical. Do you think it’s the SSD? Even though it only happens during games?
SMART stands for Self-Monitoring, Analysis and Reporting Technology. It's a tool that reports metrics that can be used to help determine the health of your HDD or SSD. You can view it through either Samsung's software, Samsung Magician, or CrystalDiskInfo. https://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/minisite/ssd/product/consumer/magician/
 
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SMART stands for Self-Monitoring, Analysis and Reporting Technology. It's a tool that reports metrics that can be used to help determine the health of your HDD or SSD. You can view it through either Samsung's software, Samsung Magician, or CrystalDiskInfo. https://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/minisite/ssd/product/consumer/magician/
Okay, I will try that when home and update you tomorrow
 
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Benchmark Scores https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/35871068 flashed to strix
boot from windows repair usb. enter command prompt.
type: diskpart
rescan
list disk (if ur drive is functioning it will be listed)
select disk (ur drive# 0,1,etc)
clean (not clean all, as takes ages)
-- once complete type-- exit

if successful shutdown pc and then boot to bios("delete" before post). reset to default (f5 my asus mobo). go to boot menu in bios and enable csm(not required unless older device). also set sata to ahci if not. now save bios and continue with windows install. all should be fine if drive is functional. if same issues arise: rma. if out of warranty message customer service. they tend to want repeat customers.

good luck.
 
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edc is the current cpu pulls atm
check windows power plan and set it to balanced.
also try run gpuz 3d test (press question mark next to bus interface)

what is your psu.
add your system specs here https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/account/specs
Hi, I was doing that GPU test you recommended on full screen and it blue screened and restarted and went back into the BIOS, upon restart which yet again my Boot drive wasn’t displayed.

edc is the current cpu pulls atm
check windows power plan and set it to balanced.
also try run gpuz 3d test (press question mark next to bus interface)

what is your psu.
add your system specs here https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/account/specs

 
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This is a new build.

Run Memtest for a few hours to make sure the memory is stable. Run prime95 (or whatever you prefer) to make sure the cpu is stable. If that checks out run a 3dmark stress test a few time and make sure it comes back with a valid score.

The SSDs I have had trouble with in the past have been fixed by leaving them powered on but idle, e.g. leave the computer sitting at the BIOS screen for a couple of hours doing nothing. Doing this even brought back and SSD that was not being reconized in the BIOS for me.

From the test you have done it sounds like the GPU or power to me. Can you drop the power slider on the GPU and run the test again?
 
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Even though it's ugly AF, grab an old SATA HDD/SSD and clone the failing NVME drive to it using Macrium or other cloning software of your choice. Sure, it'll have to hang out of the case by its cable, assuming you're still using the NCaseM1 but it's just temporary.

Firstly, that'll give you a backup of your current OS to save you some time later.
Secondly, you can try running your current PC off the other drive to see if it still bluescreens under load.

The PSU *should* be enough, but your random bluescreens suggest otherwise.
 
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This is a new build.

Run Memtest for a few hours to make sure the memory is stable. Run prime95 (or whatever you prefer) to make sure the cpu is stable. If that checks out run a 3dmark stress test a few time and make sure it comes back with a valid score.

The SSDs I have had trouble with in the past have been fixed by leaving them powered on but idle, e.g. leave the computer sitting at the BIOS screen for a couple of hours doing nothing. Doing this even brought back and SSD that was not being reconized in the BIOS for me.

From the test you have done it sounds like the GPU or power to me. Can you drop the power slider on the GPU and run the test again?
Hi,

Thank you for your message, however I have never run a memtest or a 3D mark test and I am unsure what a valid score would be.
I also am unsure how to drop the power slider on the GPU, I feel really crappy as I feel I am getting nowhere, as I am unsure what to do and the things people are suggesting I am having a hard time doing. I'm new to this and only ever built one rig prior, is there any chance you could maybe help me over discord or something so I can share screen? or do you have any other suggestions as I feel I'm trying but not really getting anywhere?

Thank you!

Even though it's ugly AF, grab an old SATA HDD/SSD and clone the failing NVME drive to it using Macrium or other cloning software of your choice. Sure, it'll have to hang out of the case by its cable, assuming you're still using the NCaseM1 but it's just temporary.

Firstly, that'll give you a backup of your current OS to save you some time later.
Secondly, you can try running your current PC off the other drive to see if it still bluescreens under load.

The PSU *should* be enough, but your random bluescreens suggest otherwise.

I haven't got an old SSD/HDD, perhaps I could order the same Nvme as mine maybe and reinstall windows?
And how could I find out if it is indeed the power supply?

Thank you!

Even though it's ugly AF, grab an old SATA HDD/SSD and clone the failing NVME drive to it using Macrium or other cloning software of your choice. Sure, it'll have to hang out of the case by its cable, assuming you're still using the NCaseM1 but it's just temporary.

Firstly, that'll give you a backup of your current OS to save you some time later.
Secondly, you can try running your current PC off the other drive to see if it still bluescreens under load.

The PSU *should* be enough, but your random bluescreens suggest otherwise.

My computer never crashes if I am browsing the web, watching videos etc. It only crashes when I run games a play for a few minutes (only tested Fortnite at the moment as that's all I have installed at the moment due to system resetting a few times). Would this suggest it is the PSU? I did however see a video of Optimum Tech use the SF600 with an overclocked 10th gen i9 and 3080 so how could that be?

Thank you :)
 
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Memory 2GB DDR3L-1333
Video Card(s) Gen7 Intel HD (4EU @ 311MHz)
Storage 32GB eMMC and 128GB Sandisk Extreme U3
Display(s) 10" IPS 1280x800 60Hz
Case Veddha T2
Audio Device(s) Apparently, yes
Power Supply Samsung 18W 5V fast-charger
Mouse MX Anywhere 2
Keyboard Logitech MX Keys (not Cherry MX at all)
VR HMD Samsung Oddyssey, not that I'd plug it into this though....
Software W10 21H1, barely
Benchmark Scores I once clocked a Celeron-300A to 564MHz on an Abit BE6 and it scored over 9000.
I haven't got an old SSD/HDD, perhaps I could order the same Nvme as mine maybe and reinstall windows?
Unfortunate :\
You shouldn't spend money until you've narrowed down the cause of the crashes. Eliminating the hard drive as a suspect was the goal but I guess you can't do that just yet.

My computer never crashes if I am browsing the web, watching videos etc. It only crashes when I run games a play for a few minutes (only tested Fortnite at the moment as that's all I have installed at the moment due to system resetting a few times). Would this suggest it is the PSU? I did however see a video of Optimum Tech use the SF600 with an overclocked 10th gen i9 and 3080 so how could that be?

Thank you :)

There are likely different revisions of the SF600 - it's been around on the market for a long time so there's no guarantee that the SF600 you saw that worked will be the same as the one you own. PSUs also behave very differently when on 115V or 230V and if it's a multi-rail design, which cables and how many different cables you use can also have an effect.

When your GPU is idle or under low load, that's when it crashes, and the GPU is by far the most power-hungry part of your PC. You should install Furmark and see if that causes an instant crash. On the assumption it will, you can see if it's too much GPU power draw causing the problem by installing MSI afterburner and reducing your power limit as low as the slider will go. If that helps, then you know you have a power draw issue and the next step is to try and isolate where the problem is, as your 3070 is drawing power from both the PSU directly, and also the motherboard slot.
 
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