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HDMI cable

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Is the Club3D still a safe suggestion or is there a newer product worth considering?
 
HDMI is a digital signal. It works, or it doesn't. Where are you buying from?

Related note...what HDMI signal? 1080p, 4k, what refresh rate? Generic questions cannot provide you good specific answers.
 
Yes, safe suggestion, certified, high quality, I recommend :)

I use this one w/ the 5090 and LG G3, no issues


HDMI is a digital signal. It works, or it doesn't. Where are you buying from?

Related note...what HDMI signal? 1080p, 4k, what refresh rate? Generic questions cannot provide you good specific answers.

I mean, if you're even slightly concerned about cable quality, it means you're not running plain jane 1080p/60Hz that the original HDMI specification could handle 20 years ago. Same with the DisplayPort 2.0 UHBR 13.5 and (especially) 20 modes, for these and HDMI 2.1, you'll want VESA or HDMI Forum certified cables. I've tried the 2.0 cable that came with my Xbox One S with the G3 and it did handle 4K 120 Hz, but it would cause signal interruptions every now and then. Club 3D cable works flawlessly.
 
No need to get worked up. Just a quick check before handing the suggestion over to be purchased.

4K 120/144 or whatever the tv has, not 60Hz.
 
No need to get worked up. Just a quick check before handing the suggestion over to be purchased.

4K 120/144 or whatever the tv has, not 60Hz.

Yeah, 4K 120+ requires a "Ultra High Speed" HDMI 2.1 48 Gbps cable. The ones branded "Premium High Speed" should be cables designed for the HDMI 2.0 spec (60 Hz)
 
I'm going through a bit of a nightmare with 48gbps cables right now.

First one (Pearstone, from B&H) was buggered right off the bat, entire bottom third of the screen would artifact out like white snow. Second one (Monoprice, from Amazon) worked fine for about six months, but now it's starting to artifact slightly (a few pixel wide horizontal lines flashing across screen every few minutes, for less than a second).

I'm 90% sure it's the cable, because if I unplug either end (LG C3 or at the 4080) and re-seat it, it will be fine. It will continue to be fine until the monitor is powered off for more than ~10 minutes, at which point there's a ~20% chance it will start acting up again on power up.

I guess I should have thrown money at it right off the bat.
 
Yeah, 4K 120+ requires a "Ultra High Speed" HDMI 2.1 48 Gbps cable. The ones branded "Premium High Speed" should be cables designed for the HDMI 2.0 spec (60 Hz)

I figured most people on this site would take it as given 2.1 or 2.1b 96Gbps for active member.

At some point in backwards compatibility we might hit a USB 2.0 situation where a cable made for that revision works better with many devices of that era. Seems newer devices are more picky about cables. Especially powered hubs.

I'm 90% sure it's the cable, because if I unplug either end (LG C3 or at the 4080) and re-seat it, it will be fine. It will continue to be fine until the monitor is powered off for more than ~10 minutes, at which point there's a ~20% chance it will start acting up again on power up.

Sounds like testing a few new cables together wouldn't be a bad idea.
 
I'm going through a bit of a nightmare with 48gbps cables right now.

First one (Pearstone, from B&H) was buggered right off the bat, entire bottom third of the screen would artifact out like white snow. Second one (Monoprice, from Amazon) worked fine for about six months, but now it's starting to artifact slightly (a few pixel wide horizontal lines flashing across screen every few minutes, for less than a second).

I'm 90% sure it's the cable, because if I unplug either end (LG C3 or at the 4080) and re-seat it, it will be fine. It will continue to be fine until the monitor is powered off for more than ~10 minutes, at which point there's a ~20% chance it will start acting up again on power up.

I guess I should have thrown money at it right off the bat.

Not that it means much to your experience, but I'm using one of monoprice's certified HDMI 2.1 "ultra high speed" cables right now just fine. Luck of the draw I guess, if yours was really certified anyways.
 
I figured most people on this site would take it as given 2.1 or 2.1b 96Gbps for active member.

At some point in backwards compatibility we might hit a USB 2.0 situation where a cable made for that revision works better with many devices of that era. Seems newer devices are more picky about cables. Especially powered hubs.

96 Gbps cables aren't available yet, but those will bear a new seal of authenticity and certificate, "HDMI Ultra96 certified" and will be marketed as 16K capable

ultra96.png


I don't expect HDMI 2.2/96G ports at least until RTX 70 series/UDNA 2 though. Might come earlier, but I'd be surprised
 
Adventurous crowd, where tech goes. If one surfaced there is better than average chance of someone trying it out.

The real shocker might be older cables that end up being capable of carrying the signal. Getting ahead of ourselves though with my nudge at humor over not explicitly stating a cable of modern manufacture for a device of modern manufacture.

Not that it means much to your experience, but I'm using one of monoprice's certified HDMI 2.1 "ultra high speed" cables right now just fine. Luck of the draw I guess, if yours was really certified anyways.

I saw a new Hisense display you seem happy with. Don't I also remember you getting a rather obscure HDMI or DP cable to test a month or two ago?
 
Doubt I'd spot a fake from the real thing, apart from just making sure it's sold/shipped by Amazon. It's good I checked my order history to take screenie because I guess I planned ahead and bought a third one (then completely forgot about it).

This is the Monoprice (2m):

1752712948696.png

and looks like I also ordered this Anker 2m, so I'll try that one out next (fingers crossed)

1752713011876.png

I've tried all 4 HDMI inputs on the LG, the 4080 only has 1 HDMI out. Yesterday I flipped the connections and reversed directions (not directional, but can't hurt to try right?), it hasn't acted up yet, but I'm sure it will.
 
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Is the Club3D still a safe suggestion or is there a newer product worth considering?
Yes.
At least in the US, it's common to find folks w/ spares or 'liquidated' inventory, selling for a fraction of full retail.
 
Don't I also remember you getting a rather obscure HDMI or DP cable to test a month or two ago?
Nah, I have a monster uncertified hdmi cable I got at a thrift sale that actually works as a hdmi 2.1 cord, but I got it for thrift store price. Never pay up for a monster cable they charge for gold rated but give you copper grade stuff at best.

Still mentioning it cause it could be what you are thinking of. I don't really use it, was more shocked it worked well without the cert lol.

I saw a new Hisense display you seem happy with.

Yeah, more on my brave firmware updating adventures later. The new bad news is a firmware update introduced on screen artifacts (fun, known issue aparently at high refresh mode), the good news is the firmware can be reverted. I'll have a writeup later lol.

But yeah happy as long as I block it from updates.
 
Club3D fixed some of my 4K120 woes.

They have always been a top tier cable maker. When the cheap stuff gives you troubles, go to Club3D.
 
Doubt I'd spot a fake from the real thing, apart from just making sure it's sold/shipped by Amazon. It's good I checked my order history to take screenie because I guess I planned ahead and bought a third one (then completely forgot about it).

This is the Monoprice (2m):

View attachment 408088

and looks like I also ordered this Anker 2m, so I'll try that one out next (fingers crossed)

View attachment 408089

I've tried all 4 HDMI inputs on the LG, the 4080 only has 1 HDMI out. Yesterday I flipped the connections and reversed directions (not directional, but can't hurt to try right?), it hasn't acted up yet, but I'm sure it will.

If you still have the box, each and every certified cable comes with a unique sticker that has a QR code you can reverse lookup to find if it matches what you bought. There is an HDMI certification app on both iOS and Android that you can use to verify if your cable is legit. if it's a match, then your cable is genuine
 
Yes.
At least in the US, it's common to find folks w/ spares or 'liquidated' inventory, selling for a fraction of full retail.

Fairly sure the markup is astronomical on any cable. Normally I go the route you suggest for just that reason.

Yeah, more on my brave firmware updating adventures later. The new bad news is a firmware update introduced on screen artifacts (fun, known issue aparently at high refresh mode), the good news is the firmware can be reverted. I'll have a writeup later lol.

But yeah happy as long as I block it from updates.

Will look forwards to a successful recovery. Interesting choice to replace your OLED with.
 
Been using Club3D for years now, not a single issue. VESA cert. and well priced
 
Club3D are a good choise
I am using this atm though and is working fine on my 4K LG TV @120hz
1752740922365.jpeg
 
Will look forwards to a successful recovery. Interesting choice to replace your OLED with.
Not gonna lie, burn in at even 5 years had me a little salty, even if only minor and after a major case of RTB-abuse. Plus the higher peak brightness is something I wanted to try.

But yeah a little offtopic now.
 
Not gonna lie, burn in at even 5 years had me a little salty, even if only minor and after a major case of RTB-abuse. Plus the higher peak brightness is something I wanted to try.

But yeah a little offtopic now.

Topically we were done here once someone nodded in the affirmative. Besides that it appears you went database instead of relatable story mode on your Hisense thread. Fairly sure we can wind down this thread with a short discussion tough to squeeze in most other places.



Choice you made was interesting enough I reopened my perpetual examination of tv as monitor. 55" or larger [insert XX year screen] that is better suited for PC usage hasn't materialized. Something with inputs matching a GPU while trimming the crapware laden OS into a lean powerful interface. Do some smart stuff with low tier binned +6 core to improve performance based on precision of user settings and internal needs of what it gets fed.

More off topically, Hisense and TCL are moving pieces on the board that more established players won't leave themselves open from making. Every model appears to have one large compromise. Beyond reaching to become or honor a small sun. So much else in enthusiast PC world is mindretchingly conflicted I tended to agree with shifting the fun we desire in direction you are heading.
 
Topically we were done here once someone nodded in the affirmative. Besides that it appears you went database instead of relatable story mode on your Hisense thread. Fairly sure we can wind down this thread with a short discussion tough to squeeze in most other places.



Choice you made was interesting enough I reopened my perpetual examination of tv as monitor. 55" or larger [insert XX year screen] that is better suited for PC usage hasn't materialized. Something with inputs matching a GPU while trimming the crapware laden OS into a lean powerful interface. Do some smart stuff with low tier binned +6 core to improve performance based on precision of user settings and internal needs of what it gets fed.

More off topically, Hisense and TCL are moving pieces on the board that more established players won't leave themselves open from making. Every model appears to have one large compromise. Beyond reaching to become or honor a small sun. So much else in enthusiast PC world is mindretchingly conflicted I tended to agree with shifting the fun we desire in direction you are heading.
Yeah sorry for doing a database instead of something more discussion oriented, but smart-tvs in general are a mess with firmware. At least many are... wanted to help with that.

*grumble grumble*

more on topic, the amount of people trying to blame one of the latest weird firmware glitches (random horizontal lines flickering in/out on screen) on the quality of their hdmi 2.1 cable is shockingly high. No guys, that ones provably caused by a bad update.
 
Yeah sorry for doing a database instead of something more discussion oriented, but smart-tvs in general are a mess with firmware. At least many are... wanted to help with that.

Was actually better. Just didn't want to make rambling first post with no correlation to topic on it.

Your purchase might have been a bit of a watershed moment after giving up on being frustrated (by overpriced underperforming hardware at retail) and chaining together free tv's with EOL firmware intended to weather new hardware requirements. Broke the mold enough I was l waiting to hear how your active investigation panned out. Be it technically or containing the sense of interacting with something I'm unlikely to see in person.

I've been unable to commit to a new OLED despite the visual benefits. Even considering experimenting with a +80" atypical panel on the cheap. At this point it appears my holding out for DP on an easy chair sized screen worth owning isn't happening.
 
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