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How to clean the dust inside PC ?

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So, how to clean the dust inside the PC case? For example, ram, CPU, graphic card, CPU cooler fan and the case fan, these area should I need to buy some equipment to do it?
Any suggestions about this issue, welcome to comments and discuss about that problem here. I appreciated your valuable opinions.
 

eidairaman1

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So, how to clean the dust inside the PC case? For example, ram, CPU, graphic card, CPU cooler fan and the case fan, these area should I need to buy some equipment to do it?
Any suggestions about this issue, welcome to comments and discuss about that problem here. I appreciated your valuable opinions.

Isopropyl alcohol, paper towels, system unplugged, esd precautions.
 
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I take them out of the case and use a small brush to remove the dust. I only resort to alcohol to remove old thermal paste.

To clean the CPU heatsink I remove the fans + rear case fan and blow (not suck) air with the vacuum cleaner, it's messy as dust tends to blow everywhere else, but it's fast and I can always use the same machine to clean the workshop.
It's said vacuum cleaners generate static so I ground the case with a simple wire.

Fans can be cleaned with a brush as well.
 

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I would wipe them with isopropyl alcohol so no dust is on them
 
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I use my Datavac to blow my PC out outside. If its really bad then you will have to take the components out and clean them individually. If the CPU heatsink is pretty bad, then you can rinse under hot water. Make sure you dry it thoroughly and immediately. For wiping fan blades that haven't been done for awhile, support the impeller and wipe each blade individually, taking care to make sure you get the leading and trailing edges nice and clean.. If there are no components left in the case, you can wipe that down with a warm wet rag. After that she should be spic and spam :)
 
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Isopropyl alcohol, paper towels, system unplugged, esd precautions.

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Neat! It's basically a bike inflator with a nozzle for blowing out dust.
CO2 means it's super dry, and Static wouldn't be an issue either.
I wonder how the cost/use works out vs. the overpriced refrigerant-pressurized 'dusters'?




Assuming an 'ideal' no smoking, vaping, or kitchen-use...

Near perfect:
an air compressor w/ a good dryer on it, and the regulator turned down.

Meant-for-purpose:
an ESD-safe 'data vac'.
(IIRC, the plastics have carbon in them to help dissipate/prevent static buildup).

Usable:
a shop-vac, hose attached to the exhaust side; DIY nozzle using shipping tape
(this, theoretically 'is a bad idea'. Moving air + plastic = static build up, typically.)

Laughable, but often effective in a pinch:
A disposable drinking straw and one's own hot air

Fan blades and the 'face' of heatsink-fans (even in non-smoking, etc. use), will have impacted dust in the pores of the material.
Ex. shrouded HSFs (like on a lot of GPUs and most laptop HSFs) will often have a hidden dustcake on the 'face' where the fan blows at the heatsink.

You'll need a brush, regardless but, if you want them 'resale clean' you'll need some rubbing alcohol and patience. FYI, fanblades are delicate AF for people like me; be careful.


Beyond the 'ideal' (central HVAC'd home/office, with no smoking, vaping, or cooking residues)...

Everything will need 'mechanical cleaning'.
No matter how destructively-blasting your air is, it will not de-adhere crud; it'll have to be gently scrubbed:
If it's from a kitchen, or a heavy smoker, you'll need a solvent like alcohol.
If it's a vaper's PC, warm water w/ just a little alcohol to aid in drying works well.
 
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Smokers' PCs are often worse than their lungs. There's no way to get rid of the smell no matter how much you clean the components.

Dust filters work but some of the dust will get inside, if the case has an open top that's the biggest entry point for dust, cat hairs if you have cats, etc.
Worst PC I've worked on was used in a sawmill, you can imagine the amount of sawdust inside that thing, but there were also a plethora of dead bugs, spider webs and hairs. PSU vent was practically clogged by a thick layer of gunk.
 
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There's no way to get rid of the smell
O^3/Tri-Oxy/Ozone does the job.
Though, if too strong (and/or too humid) the treatment will yellow and embrittle plastics, and corrode exposed metal.

It's cheap and easy to get an ozone generator, but anything sucking ambient air will also be making nitrogen oxides. Add humidity, and you get Nitric Acid. Which, is really not nice to metals.

The downside of the Corona Discharge method, is that in addition to ozone, it also creates a by-product called Nitrogen Oxide. When this Nitrogen Oxide comes into contact with water (for example humidity, or a wet surface), it can create a corrosive liquid called Nitric Acid

Plus, it smells fantastic (-smells like after a lightning storm)

Worst PC I've worked on was used in a sawmill, you can imagine the amount of sawdust inside that thing, but there were also a plethora of dead bugs, spider webs and hairs. PSU vent was practically clogged by a thick layer of gunk.
While I've had many 'nasty PCs' I've worked on, the most destructively dirty one was a Dell tower owned by a contractor. I'm guessing he pre-cut stuff in his garage-workshop or something, because the many layers of super micronized drywall dust were clearly a causative agent for his HDDs dying. (IIRC, He had them in RAID 1, and 1 was totally dead, the other erroring). Oh, and not a fan in his machine had good bearings either.
Thankfully, he replaced that machine, but transferring data was a nightmare...
 
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dust every month if you have the time, blow the dust out and clean them filter
i do a major clean every 2 years including repasting the cpu and heatsink contact..
but if you do a quick dust blow every month then your case should be relatively clean
 
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View attachment 300427
Neat! It's basically a bike inflator with a nozzle for blowing out dust.
CO2 means it's super dry, and Static wouldn't be an issue either.

Quite the opposite, this is a lethal suggestion in my opinion.

I have already told the story of the inflatable submarine antenna that was inflated with C02, the electronics kept failing because they used C02

One way to reduce static is to work in a humid environment.
 
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Quite the opposite, this is a lethal suggestion in my opinion.
Huh? Mixing up CO and CO2?
(Or am I being out-pendant'd in my lack of proper format/notation for a common respiratory gas?)

I'm not doing the math, but unless you're laying on the floor in a confined space with poor/no ventilation, it's quite difficult to harm yourself too badly with CO^2. Also, I seriously wonder how anyone could tolerate being in a high-CO^2 area.
IMO, CO^2 burns in the sinuses and lungs more than ozone does, at least on incidental exposure.
 
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Meant-for-purpose:
an ESD-safe 'data vac'.
(IIRC, the plastics have carbon in them to help dissipate/prevent static buildup).

The DataVac shell is metal

Huh? Mixing up CO and CO2?
(Or am I being out-pendant'd in my lack of proper format/notation for a common respiratory gas?)

By lethal I meant for the electronics not the person.
 
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The DataVac shell is metal
IIRC, the tubes with air rapidly flowing through them is where the static build-up concern comes from.
Off the top of my head, as a test: If you have both, try your datavac as a blower vs your shopvac as a blower, on some packing peanuts.
I've not tried it, but by advertised features of the datavac, I'd hope it would charge the packing material less.
By lethal I meant for the electronics not the person.
Well, :doh: on my part.

Still, how so is it harmful?
-from the mere ability to dangerously misuse it and blow components clean-off the board?
 
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Lethal from a static buildup point of view, hence the submarine story and why some people work on electronics after running the shower.
 
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Lethal from a static buildup point of view, hence the submarine story and why some people work on electronics after running the shower.
Fair, ambient humidity is important for ESD control.
Normally condensation from errantly used 'canned air' or high-velocity water droplets from a compressor's air are the utmost concerns.
 
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My unit just burned out and I am wondering if I should get a replacement motor ($60)
 
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I usually take my PC to the gasstation to blow out the dust with compressed air from the tire compressor. Just make sure the fans are fixated with some sticks or prevent them from spinning wildly while blowing (can ruin the fans otherwise)
 
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I usually take my PC to the gasstation to blow out the dust with compressed air from the tire compressor.
Using an air compressor is a great idea. Most professional electronics repair facilities have been doing this for decades. Taking the dirty electronics outside and blasting it clean with compressed air is what we always do here.

HOWEVER, using the compressed air from a gas station is NOT a good idea. The reason why is, unless you work there, you have no clue how or even if the air compressor is being properly maintained, and more importantly, if the compressed air is properly filtered.

The problem is, the compressing process WILL create condensation inside the tank. This condensation collects on the walls of the tank, promoting rust, then runs down to the bottom of the tank. If allowed to build up, nasty, rusty, dusty, oily water particles can be picked up and spewed onto your electronics! That is never good!

Contaminated compressed air is no big deal for tires, or even those heavy-duty pneumatic tools used by mechanics in vehicle repair facilities. But it is a big deal with electronics. So periodic draining is required and air compressors have a petcock valve on the bottom of the tank for this purpose. But unless you know for a fact, it is being done, you must not assume it has been done.

But keeping the tank drained is not enough! You must ALWAYS - as in EVERY SINGLE TIME - use a suitable inline moisture and particulate filter when cleaning electronics (or air-brush painting birthday cakes or faces) with a air compressor.

Gas stations don't typically use such filters since they are not needed to inflate a tire or turn a lug nut.

Also, never see how fast you can make a fan spin - you can easily exceed design limits and damage the bearings, accelerating the wear and tear process resulting in premature failure. I use wooden glue/Popsicle sticks to hold the blades stationary when blasting.

Do not open a PSU case unless you are a qualified electronics technician. Just hold the fan(s) stationary and blast through the vents.

If you don’t have access to a suitably filtered air compressor, you can used cans of dusting gas. However, it should be noted those cans of dusting gas do NOT contain “air” and therefore should never be called “canned air”. Instead of safe-to-breath air, they contain difluoroethane or a similar gas. These gases are typically used as refrigerants and can be extremely hazardous if inhaled. In extreme cases, they can damage the central nervous system, or even be fatal.

Note in some jurisdictions, cans of dusting gas are sold in a controlled manner, similar to how cans of spray paint are sold to [hopefully] dissuade abuse from “huffing”.

Either way, do it outside. No need to blast that heat-trapping dust, dander, microscopic critters that eat that dander, and the microscopic "stuff" those critters "excrete" :eek: back into your room, computer, or lungs. :(
 
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Can't argue with that, even if I am foolish enough to let my fans spin; I'm more concerned about high voltage than the bearings.

Canned 'air' is way too expensive, and the dangers real.

I've been known to blow dust off, but always ended up not feeling so great.
 
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I bought this one recently (anti static)

20230408_174301.jpg20230408_174329.jpg
 
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Grounded cable?
 
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Case Be quiet! Silent Base 600 - Window
Audio Device(s) Panasonic SA-PMX94 / Realtek onboard + B&O speaker system / Harman Kardon Go + Play / Logitech G533
Power Supply Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 750W
Mouse Logitech MX Anywhere 2 Laser wireless
Keyboard RAPOO E9270P Black 5GHz wireless
Software Windows 11
Benchmark Scores Cinebench R23 (Single Core) 1936 @ stock Cinebench R23 (Multi Core) 23006 @ stock
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