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How to quickly & easily fix coil-whine(coil choke noise)

xBHx

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Hi!

I'm planning on doing this to my EVGA RTX 2080 Ti XC. It has the most absurd coilwhine I've ever heard. Its like a song with different notes and instruments, extremely annoying.

The problem is, the chokes are tightly packed between components and I don't think I can get in between the chokes even with a needle tip (Which I was gonna be using regardless).
How would I approach this specific card?

It is watercooled and I've heard removing the back plate can help, but I truly don't really see how this would matter. (If anyone could shine some light on that one, thank you :p)
 
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Hi there! Welcome to TPU!

The problem is, the chokes are tightly packed between components and I don't think I can get in between the chokes even with a needle tip (Which I was gonna be using regardless).
How would I approach this specific card?
Take photo's, a few wide shots and a few close up. This would be helpful for offering suggestions for application of the CA glue.

It is watercooled and I've heard removing the back plate can help, but I truly don't really see how this would matter. (If anyone could shine some light on that one, thank you :p)
It couldn't hurt to try. Backplates are often for minor cooling but also for rigidity and are usually harmless to remove.
 

xBHx

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Hi there! Welcome to TPU!


Take photo's, a few wide shots and a few close up. This would be helpful for offering suggestions for application of the CA glue.


It couldn't hurt to try. Backplates are often for minor cooling but also for rigidity and are usually harmless to remove.
Uploaded a picture of the PCB in question. Mines still in use waiting for about 3 years of custom parts piled to finally rebuild my pc (Scared I might fry something because I've dabbled in external radiators with custom power delivery solutions)

As per the glue, I landed on the 'Everbuild stick2' variation -> High viscosity. This should work fine right?

Sorry for all these questions, but I'd rather not force myself into buying a 4090 well above MSRP of 2 years ago.

EDIT: I also plan on putting as much thermal putty between the LR22's. The idea is to fill the space and hopefully it'll be harder to move when they're all a single block. If that makes sense.

 

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EDIT: I also plan on putting as much thermal putty between the LR22's. The idea is to fill the space and hopefully it'll be harder to move when they're all a single block. If that makes sense.
Don't do that. Only use as much TIM as you need.

Give me a little bit and I'll repost your photo with indicators as to where to apply glue.

EDIT:
Done. All of the red highlight parts should be sealed.
Additionally, use the fine tip applicator nozzle to squeeze in CA glue into the space between the coils as indicated by the red dots in the photo.
xBHx01.jpg
 

xBHx

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Done. All of the red highlight parts should be sealed.
Additionally, use the fine tip applicator nozzle to squeeze in CA glue into the space between the coils as indicated by the red dots in the photo.
Understood, I'll hit them from the flanks and hope it'll connect in the middle :D

I attached a picture of what I meant by filling the gaps with the lr22's. Its the space between them, on the sides. I will be using a normal thermal pad as instructed with the block, been working good for temps anyways :D The way I see it, the less movement possible, the better.
But just want to cover all bases and perhaps get some feedback on it, as it seems like a tedious thing to do, and possibly pointless when glue is already being used.

I do really appreciate the help, I believe I could actually cry out of happiness if the coilwhine is gone or drastically reduced, its so bad.
 

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eidairaman1

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And how would we apply any one them? Sure, put the stuff on in the factory before the parts are soldered in place and we can call it a great solution. Not so much post-consumer delivery. None of those compounds have a wicking action while liquid that allows them to seep into the spaces inside the coil and into the spaces where the coil housing meets the PCB.

Any adhesive that has wicking action before curing, that is PH neutral(or close to it) and chemically inert once cured would work as a great solution for this problem. No wicking qualities, it's going to be difficult(cumbersome) to work with and much less effective.
Use a curved tip irrigation syringe and qtips with alcohol to keep clean appearance, pack it in like grease in a bearing.
 

eidairaman1

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Yeah, but how many people will have the skills to give that a go? CA glues are very easy, wick very well and work like a charm.
If there's a will there's a way, I'm only suggesting another possible solution to this annoying problem.

Fyi it took me time to get good at sealing bushing flanges, I guess you've never packed grease in bearings before though.
 
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I guess you've never packed grease in bearings before though.
Sure I have, but such an activity is not something everyone is going to tackle. It's not something I'm going to make a guide for to solve a problem like this. CA Glues are mostly easy for anyone and cleans up well with some fingernail polish/acetone.
 
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