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I need suggestions to modify the cooling of my laptop due to thermal throttling

Joined
May 6, 2020
Messages
73 (0.04/day)
System Name svf15n17cxb
Processor i7 4500u without power limitation 18w
Motherboard sony damaged
Cooling stock
Memory 8gb
Video Card(s) gt 735m oc
Storage a400 240gb 300 tflops xd
Display(s) 1080p integrated xd
Hello a few days ago I managed to remove the power limitation of my laptop but I never thought that the heatsink was so poor when extracting heat and I am having a 2.7ghz to 2.1ghz thermal brake. this happens more when playing any game the gpu stays at 75 ° C and the cpu reaches 85 ° C which is the limit, I do not understand why putting a temperature limit so low will leave an image of the laptop open and of throttlestop .

I know it is not a realistic workload but I did it to make it happen faster, when I play the cpu it goes down the frequency progressively until it reaches 2.1 ghz and the performance is insufficient
under.PNG

thermal throttling.PNG
97211104_3245046572194552_4850886581231288320_n (1).jpg
 
Entonces, ¿un refrigerador portátil no lo cortará?

not the problem is that a cooler will do the same as the second fan you add, I need a something to help the heatsink but I can't think of anything.

I use google translator because I don't know English in case it finds inconsistencies
 
Is -0.059V the best stable undervolt that your laptop can do? Most Haswell chips should have more undervolting potential than that.

You can try adding thin thermal pads to an area on the heatpipes so that it makes contact with the bottom lid for extra surface area over which it can dissipate heat. But this only works if the bottom of your laptop is metal, not plastic.

EDIT: apparently the PROCHOT offset can't be changed. You can tick BD PROCHOT to remove the thermal limits altogether, but this is risky if you're not 100% sure that your CPU will never exceed 100C once you tick BD PROCHOT.
 
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Is -0.059V the best stable undervolt that your laptop can do? Most Haswell chips should have more undervolting potential than that.

You can try adding thin thermal pads to an area on the heatpipes so that it makes contact with the bottom lid for extra surface area over which it can dissipate heat. But this only works if the bottom of your laptop is metal, not plastic.

EDIT: apparently the PROCHOT offset can't be changed. You can tick BD PROCHOT to remove the thermal limits altogether, but this is risky if you're not 100% sure that your CPU will never exceed 100C once you tick BD PROCHOT.

the bottom cover is plastic but I think the thermal pads will not work but I think that if I add an extra heat pipe in the cpu it could improve a lot. On the undervolt I have not tried to lower the voltage the last time I tried the crasheo laptop, but it had reached -70mv. It also occurred to me to connect a heat pipe to the second fan because the cover is aluminum. but before considering making the modification with heatpipes I want to know how many options I have.
when dialing bd prochot the cpu falls to 798 mhz
 
Heatpipes? Please post pics of you do!

if you haven’t already, I’d try reseating the heatsink with a new thermal paste application. I find the application from OEMs are usually terrible.

You could also try one of those platforms/stands with built in fans — probably only a couple degrees but might make the difference.
 
Heatpipes? Please post pics of you do!

if you haven’t already, I’d try reseating the heatsink with a new thermal paste application. I find the application from OEMs are usually terrible.

You could also try one of those platforms/stands with built in fans — probably only a couple degrees but might make the difference.
The heatpipes have been thinking for a while, I still do not do it but I may end up doing it, on the chiller base once I used one and only under 1 degree with the second fan I managed to prevent the laptop from turning off but the cpu is still the problem.
I had already thought to change the thermal paste I plan to use lakryonaut.
I am currently planning everything, I will leave an image that shows a little the idea that I have.

I plan to buy an identical heatsink and take the heat pipes to match and do not need as much space

97211104_3245046572194552_4850886581231288320_n (1).jpg
 
The heatpipes have been thinking for a while, I still do not do it but I may end up doing it, on the chiller base once I used one and only under 1 degree with the second fan I managed to prevent the laptop from turning off but the cpu is still the problem.
I had already thought to change the thermal paste I plan to use lakryonaut.
I am currently planning everything, I will leave an image that shows a little the idea that I have.

I plan to buy an identical heatsink and take the heat pipes to match and do not need as much space

View attachment 155925
just learn to braze with aluminum or brass to your base metal. Get MAP gas and torch head and brazing rods.
or DC tig 100 amps with 3/32 tungsten , rods 2% Lanthanated blue or rare-earth mix purple with a 60/30 grind and deoxidized copper tig rods. Your experience will aid in preference of using either 100% helium or argon
 
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just learn to braze with aluminum or brass to your base metal. Get MAP gas and torch head and brazing rods.
or DC tig 100 amps with 3/32 tungsten , rods 2% Lanthanated blue or rare-earth mix purple with a 60/30 grind and deoxidized copper tig rods. Your experience will aid in preference of using either 100% helium or argon

I literally just understand welding. I had planned to paste it with some kind of thermal glue and paste as in the video that I will take as a base. which is this
 
I have my doubts that thermal epoxy will result in any more heat output. Then soldering is the way to go. Propane or MAP gas, or butane lighter making the flame easier to manipulate and solder wire
 
I have my doubts that thermal epoxy will result in any more heat output. Then soldering is the way to go. Propane or MAP gas, or butane lighter making the flame easier to manipulate and solder wire
I will have it in mind for a while I also thought about welding but I wasn't sure but I think it is the best option.
Do you think you can do something to temporarily fix the problem?
because I still have to get things
 
cpu core offset undervolts can go lower than cpu cache offset. for instance my 9750h core is -125mv and the cache is -85mv. I get better temperatures and scores using those settings than matching the two at -85mv. If you want a temporary fix, dont use epoxy but a non-curing thermal paste such as kryonaut. And apply some to the cpu+gpu too. You can always apply liquid metal and probably forget about this whole thing.
 
cpu core offset undervolts can go lower than cpu cache offset. for instance my 9750h core is -125mv and the cache is -85mv. I get better temperatures and scores using those settings than matching the two at -85mv. If you want a temporary fix, dont use epoxy but a non-curing thermal paste such as kryonaut. And apply some to the cpu+gpu too. You can always apply liquid metal and probably forget about this whole thing.
liquid metal is not an option because next to the cpu it is full of transistors and has a slight deformity the motherboard would be killing my laptop but I think that the core undervolt can go lower.

several hours later I discovered that unfortunately the cpu does not drop to more than -59mv
 
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Uncheck the ProcHot box where it shows 85 degrees.
 
Deselect 'Clock Modulation', 'Chipset Modulation' and 'Set Multiplier'. Open TPL and check 'Enable Speed Shift when ThrottleStop starts.' Drop your CPU cache undervolt to -40mV and drop the CPU Offset to -65mW. Drop the Intel GPU undervolting back to "0" as a baseline. Select the 'OK - Do not save voltages' radio button, then click the 'Save' button. Open up TS Bench and start with a single core stress test.

I'd also suggest downloading the ThrottleStop v9.0 and moving your ini file over.
 
Deselect 'Clock Modulation', 'Chipset Modulation' and 'Set Multiplier'. Open TPL and check 'Enable Speed Shift when ThrottleStop starts.' Drop your CPU cache undervolt to -40mV and drop the CPU Offset to -65mW. Drop the Intel GPU undervolting back to "0" as a baseline. Select the 'OK - Do not save voltages' radio button, then click the 'Save' button. Open up TS Bench and start with a single core stress test.

I'd also suggest downloading the ThrottleStop v9.0 and moving your ini file over.
speedshift is blocked. I'm sorry if I change hard drive late

ssdddff.PNG
 
Is the bottom cover limiting the air intake?
I've once tried cutting a hole at the fan intake area and it worked out pretty well.
You can test if the temperatures are the same without the bottom cover to see if air intake is a problem
 
Disable 'Memory integrity' under 'Core isolation' in 'Device security' under 'Windows Security' in Settings, and reboot. See if Speed Shift is able to be enabled then.
 
Is the bottom cover limiting the air intake?
I've once tried cutting a hole at the fan intake area and it worked out pretty well.
You can test if the temperatures are the same without the bottom cover to see if air intake is a problem

the problem is the heat pipes are too thin to dissipate heat they are only 1mm thick

Disable 'Memory integrity' under 'Core isolation' in 'Device security' under 'Windows Security' in Settings, and reboot. See if Speed Shift is able to be enabled then.

it didn't work, I think the problem is the bios
 
Yep. More specifically the CPU microcode. Bummer.
 
Yep. More specifically the CPU microcode. Bummer.

Yes, do you think that if I make a copy of the bios and have it modified, I can repair most of the errors?
 
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