Laptop Gpu Mount Standoff Came Off

[Schewux]

Hi. I have a Scar 16 laptop which I had to reapply liquid metal after I bought as 4 ecores would hit 90 degrees and throttle the cpu. This was around 8 months ago.
Anyways for some reason, in just a week my gpu temps started hitting 88 degrees and wattage dropped to ~130W instead of 80 degrees and 175W. No big deal I'll just reapply the paste again.
Then when I tried to unscrew the heatsink, the nut just came off. Whatever I'll just use the remaining screws and close it up.
In the end, temps got way better than the state it was in but around 5 degrees worse than what it was before. And I'm also worried about liquid metal seeping out with a screw missing even though heatsink has barriers around the die. What can I do to reattach it to the board? Super glue, epoxy or solder which I'm not very comfortable with. Thanks.

Sorry for the picture I was too lazy to remove the heatsink again.

 

[eidairaman1]

Heres a solution, stop using liquid metal, use thermalpads

 

[Deleted member 242843]

Dang. Epoxy or solder either would in theory work (I'd opt for solder), but there is so little to hold on to, you would have to do it a little at a time and build it up as much as you could, while also making sure you got it back to the right height, or else it will never mount properly. Then, would have to be incredibly careful when tightening back down not to break it again. Still might not hold for long. You just have to get it snug, doesn't have to be torqued down....it isn't holding a crankshaft. I see a board replacement in your future.

 

[eidairaman1]

Dang. Epoxy or solder either would in theory work (I'd opt for solder), but there is so little to hold on to, you would have to do it a little at a time and build it up as much as you could, while also making sure you got it back to the right height, or else it will never mount properly. Then, would have to be incredibly careful when tightening back down not to break it again. Still might not hold for long. You just have to get it snug, doesn't have to be torqued down....it isn't holding a crankshaft. I see a board replacement in your future.

Id use non conductive epoxy on the standoff/nutplate to keep in place so the hs can be screwed down

 

[Bill_Bright]

I had to reapply liquid metal after I bought as 4 ecores would hit 90 degrees and throttle the cpu.

What do you mean you "had to" reapply the TIM (thermal interface material"? The only reasons TIM needs to be reapplied is (1) the cured bond between mating surfaces was broken or (2) it was applied incorrectly in the first place.

Assuming ASUS properly applied that Conductonaut Extreme liquid metal TIM correctly at the factory, did you dink with it and break the bond? Your temps hitting 90°C is NOT an indication you need to replace the TIM and risk damaging the processor(s), cooler mount, cooler, or motherboard board due to mishandling or ESD. Excessive temps is an indication of a failing processor fan or inadequate or faulty case cooling, or perhaps a build-up of heat-trapping dust, or improper clock/voltage settings.

Since Conductonaut Extreme liquid metal TIM came applied at the factory, and since it is safe to assume it was originally applied correctly, unless you broke the bond, there should have been no reason to reapply. Yes, a fresh application might yield a few degrees of better cooling, but the fact is, if you need those few degrees to prevent crossing thermal protection thresholds, you have more urgent cooling needs to deal with first - like the aforementioned concerns.

I fear there is a misunderstanding of TIM here.

No big deal I'll just reapply the paste again.

It is a big deal. And your issue is a perfect illustration as to why.

Note there is not a single TIM maker, CPU maker, GPU maker, laptop maker, PC maker, motherboard maker, cooler maker that says TIM needs to be periodically replaced. Not one!!! Or that it needs to be replaced at all EXCEPT when the cured bond has been broken.

That is, for example, if you remove the cooler for some reason, the mating surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned of the old TIM, then a fresh new application should be properly applied. TIM should NEVER be reused. TIM can easily last 5, 10, 15 years or longer AS LONG AS the cured bond is not broken.

Even if it dries out, the solids left behind are still occupying the microscopic pits and valleys in the mating surfaces thus preventing insulating air from getting in there. The ONLY reason TIM comes in a liquified format is so it can be squeezed out of the tube and spread easily and evenly across the die.

Again, why is this important? To prevent accidental damage to the processor, cooler mount, motherboard, etc.

I'm also worried about liquid metal seeping out

This is NOT a concern when applied properly - and that means using the smallest amount necessary for complete coverage, and no more. It is much easier to add a little more than to remove excess.

Also, laptops have the advantage of the motherboard being in a horizontal orientation during operation (as oppose to PC tower boards oriented vertically). This means again, if applied properly, there would be no way it seeps out.

What can I do to reattach it to the board? Super glue, epoxy

Do NOT use superglue!

Superglue is excellent at bonding parts to prevent them from being "pulled" apart. But superglue is lousy at holding against "twisting" forces. And screws and nuts are all about twisting.

I would use epoxy. Just remember, epoxy typically takes 24 hours to cure. I would give it at least 48.

 

[Schewux]

First of all, thank you for your detailed answer.

What do you mean you "had to" reapply the TIM (thermal interface material"? The only reasons TIM needs to be reapplied is (1) the cured bond between mating surfaces was broken or (2) it was applied incorrectly in the first place.

Assuming ASUS properly applied that Conductonaut Extreme liquid metal TIM correctly at the factory, did you dink with it and break the bond? Your temps hitting 90°C is NOT an indication you need to replace the TIM and risk damaging the processor(s), cooler mount, cooler, or motherboard board due to mishandling or ESD. Excessive temps is an indication of a failing processor fan or inadequate or faulty case cooling, or perhaps a build-up of heat-trapping dust, or improper clock/voltage settings.

Since Conductonaut Extreme liquid metal TIM came applied at the factory, and since it is safe to assume it was originally applied correctly, unless you broke the bond, there should have been no reason to reapply. Yes, a fresh application might yield a few degrees of better cooling, but the fact is, if you need those few degrees to prevent crossing thermal protection thresholds, you have more urgent cooling needs to deal with first - like the aforementioned concerns.

As I tried to explain, the factory application was bad and 1 of the 4 e-core clusters would shoot up to 90 degrees while the rest of the cores were at 60 or something and this would throttle the cpu. Before I reapplied LM, i could only sustain 80W on the cpu and after the application I could sustain 140W so I think It is safe to assume the application or the mounting pressure was bad before.

This is NOT a concern when applied properly - and that means using the smallest amount necessary for complete coverage, and no more. It is much easier to add a little more than to remove excess.

Also, laptops have the advantage of the motherboard being in a horizontal orientation during operation (as oppose to PC tower boards oriented vertically). This means again, if applied properly, there would be no way it seeps out.

My concern was considering the fact that I now had 1 less screw which is arranged as 1 on the one side and 2 on the other side and the screw i lost is the single one. So I thought the lack of pressure on one side might cause the LM to seep out.

Also I know the LM or any other TIM would last for longer than the 8 months It lasted for me but I carry this laptop around daily so it might have caused the liquid to move around I'm not sure.

Do NOT use superglue!

Superglue is excellent at bonding parts to prevent them from being "pulled" apart. But superglue is lousy at holding against "twisting" forces. And screws and nuts are all about twisting.

I would use epoxy. Just remember, epoxy typically takes 24 hours to cure. I would give it at least 48.

I have never used epoxy. Would it stick to that small of a surface and hold it when I screw it in?

 

[Bill_Bright]

As I tried to explain, the factory application was bad

If you are saying from day one, and without changing any clock or voltage default settings, it overheated, then IMO, you should have returned it immediately under warranty. But I guess now, that is water under the bridge as surely any warranty if void now.

My concern was considering the fact that I now had 1 less screw which is arranged as 1 on the one side and 2 on the other side and the screw i lost is the single one. So I thought the lack of pressure on one side might cause the LM to seep out.

That is a valid concern if too much TIM was applied. Remember, the most efficient transfer of heat occurs with direct metal-to-metal contact between the processor and heatsink. The purpose for TIM is to fill the microscopic pits and valleys in those mating surfaces to prevent any insulating air from getting trapped in there. So any excess TIM is actually in the way and counterproductive to the optimal heat-transfer efficiency. So even with uneven pressure, there should not be so much TIM that it is able to be squished out. This is especially true with a horizontally oriented motherboard where gravity is not pulling down on one side while the computer is in use and the processor is heated up.

Simply carrying the laptop around should not cause the LM TIM to seep out - again, if properly applied with only the minimum amount needed.

That said, to me, the greater concern is simply the uneven pressure putting uneven stress on the processor socket and motherboard. Hopefully, once you get the nut securely attached again, you can make sure you put even pressure all the way around.

While it is possible that nut was not properly attached at the factory and that is why it broke loose, one has to wonder if you broke it loose by overtightening. I like the coolers that mount with 1/4 turn, spring-loaded screws just for that reason. Not only do they ensure no over-tightening, they also ensure even pressure all around.

I have never used epoxy. Would it stick to that small of a surface and hold it when I screw it in?

Epoxy is great stuff. Messy, but great for lots of jobs, big and small. It is messy because you have to mix two equal parts, the resin and the hardener. When mixed together, a chemical reaction begins and you will actually notice it heats up. Once thoroughly mixed, you typically have about 10 minutes to work with it before it starts to cure so you have plenty of time to make minor adjustments to make sure the nut is aligned properly. This is unlike superglue where you might have a couple seconds. Once it cures, epoxy becomes rock hard.

Would it stick? As with all glue jobs, preparing the surfaces first is a must to ensure maximum adhesion. This means a thorough cleaning and removal of any loose debris, skin oils, etc. before applying glue. I might use a razor blade knife to scrape bare the surfaces, then I would probably use an alcohol pad for a final cleaning.

I certainly cannot promise epoxy will work. But I don't know of a better glue option.