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Maximus VII Gene found damage

  • Thread starter Thread starter Deleted member 24505
  • Start date Start date
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Deleted member 24505

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I bought a Maximus VII Gene a while ago from ebay, which arrived DOA, would not post at all. Yesterday i had a good look at it with a lens, and found 2 places where there is damage. You think if i repair it, it will work?

Top pic, there are 3 caps gone, bottom one is there but moved. Middle pic, the one end resistor? is missing.
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If you purchased the board as a working motherboard, I'd contact the seller and try to get a refund!!!

If the seller doesn't accept a refund, I'd contact Ebay and PayPal and file a dispute on the seller.

If it was purchased as a DOA motherboard, then it would be worth attempting to fix it as you don't have anything to loose.
 
stinger608 said:
If you purchased the board as a working motherboard, I'd contact the seller and try to get a refund!!!

If the seller doesn't accept a refund, I'd contact Ebay and PayPal and file a dispute on the seller.

If it was purchased as a DOA motherboard, then it would be worth attempting to fix it as you don't have anything to loose.
Click to expand...

It was bought a a working board. He gave me my money back and said keep the board.
 
Tigger said:
It was bought a a working board. He gave me my money back and said keep the board.
Click to expand...

Well hell, then, I'd say go for it!!!!!

Even if it doesn't work, you're not out anything. :p

They are an awesome looking board! It would be great if you can get it fixed and running!
 
I'm gonna give it a try. i'll be a nice spare to feck about with if i can get it working.
 
those top two caps look like they might be connected to that clock generator so you need to figure out what the correct value is and replace them
the bottom one maby goes to one of the sata ports

the resistor is less of a problem as it looks like its for the on-board leds
but it is a 0 ohm like the rest (only one is missing the left most pads are unpopulated)

attached is a better pcb picture found on google
give the damage to the edge of the board I am wondering if it got dropped, if it did there is a good change there is internal damage to the traces
don't put any hardware you care about in it until you confirm its not going to burst into flames
 

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OneMoar said:
those top two caps look like they might be connected to that clock generator so you need to figure out what the correct value is and replace them
the bottom one maby goes to one of the sata ports

the resistor is less of a problem as it looks like its for the on-board leds
but it is a 0 ohm like the rest (only one is missing the left most pads are unpopulated)

attached is a better pcb picture found on google
give the damage to the edge of the board I am wondering if it got dropped, if it did there is a good change there is internal damage to the traces
don't put any hardware you care about in it until you confirm its not going to burst into flames
Click to expand...

i have a 4670 and 4160 to try and a stick of ddr3 i know works.
Here's what the board does-
 
id replace those caps first and retry
might also be worth using the bios flash back to reflash the bios
 
What's it do without the ram in?
 
OneMoar said:
id replace those caps first and retry
might also be worth using the bios flash back to reflash the bios
Click to expand...

I did try every bios version, even replaced the bios chip and reflashed it with latest just in case. I will have a go at fixing the caps if i can, they are really tiny, and give it a try.

As far as i know, i have a working CPU and working stick of ram.
 
@Tigger find some hi rez images of the board online and cross reference. As I'm sure you know not all solder legs will be populated but fixing it is well worth a shot.
 
ThaiTaffy said:
@Tigger find some hi rez images of the board online and cross reference. As I'm sure you know not all solder legs will be populated but fixing it is well worth a shot.
Click to expand...

i will have to find a hands free magnifier to try it. i do have a fine soldering tip, but need to be able to see what i am doing
 
do your self a favor and get a hot-air station trying to microsolder those caps with a hotip iron is going to suck and probly end with burnt pcb
I am wondering if those caps are for the sata or south bridge and the board isn't seeing the signal it wants on post
the first thing it does is try and initialize the PCH which is going to expect those things to be present
 
All that should be an easy fix once you get the right pieces.
Nothing to lose by trying.

OneMoar said:
do your self a favor and get a hot-air station trying to microsolder those caps with a hotip iron is going to suck and probly end with burnt pcb
I am wondering if those caps are for the sata or south bridge and the board isn't seeing the signal it wants on post
the first thing it does is try and initialize the PCH which is going to expect those things to be present
Click to expand...

You can use a soldering iron if you can set it's temp, 380 - 400f / 193 - 204c is about the heat range you want.
However an airwand works too.

I've done such before with both methods and once you get the area cleaned and pre-tinned with a tiny dot of solder at each solder spot the components themselves will be easy to set in place.
I normally use the airwand for this but as said it can be done with an iron too.

I just use the tip of a flathead screwdriver to hold the pieces in place and let them get hot, the solder melts and you're done. You'll feel the piece go down flat with the screwdriver, once that happens remove the heat, hold it for a few moments further with the screwdriver before taking it off the piece, let cool and test.
It's faster work with an iron by simply touching the very end of the pieces you're setting in place but I still use a screwdriver to hold them where I want them to be. Just be sure to pre-tin the spots on the board they would be soldered to and use flux when doing this on the spot and pieces.
 
Bones said:
All that should be an easy fix once you get the right pieces.
Nothing to lose by trying.



You can use a soldering iron if you can set it's temp, 380 - 400f / 193 - 204c is about the heat range you want.
However an airwand works too.

I've done such before with both methods and once you get the area cleaned and pre-tinned with a tiny dot of solder at each solder spot the components themselves will be easy to set in place.
I normally use the airwand for this but as said it can be done with an iron too.

I just use the tip of a flathead screwdriver to hold the pieces in place and let them get hot, the solder melts and you're done. You'll feel the piece go down flat with the screwdriver, once that happens remove the heat, hold it for a few moments further with the screwdriver before taking it off the piece, let cool and test.
It's faster work with an iron by simply touching the very end of the pieces you're setting in place but I still use a screwdriver to hold them where I want them to be. Just be sure to pre-tin the spots on the board they would be soldered to and use flux when doing this on the spot and pieces.
Click to expand...
why did i never think of using a screwdriver to hold things in place before...

thanks for the tip
 
Mussels said:
why did i never think of using a screwdriver to hold things in place before...

thanks for the tip
Click to expand...
Tip: ( :D )

Use a long, thin screwdriver with a slim tip, not a standard sized one.
Make sure each pre-tinned spot is flat. With an airwand that's easy to do, just hold heat to the spot long enough for it to melt and that's about it. Apply a dab of flux, set the component in place, hold it with the screwdriver and just do it.

If you must you can lightly sand the solder spot to make it flat and at least get it to bond in place now, use an iron with additional solder on it afterwards.
If you apply the dot with an iron it won't be flat and the component will try to go off to one side or the other, plus be hard to get in the right position to even be soldered.
If the dot is too tall that will happen too.
You want the pre-tinned dot to not be big at all, the smaller the better in fact because you can always chase it with more solder later but still use the screwdriver to hold it.
 
use the right tools ... we have hot air for this
put a little bit of solder paste on the end of component or the pads
bury in it in flux paste this will hold it and prevent the air from moving it around
set your air hot and low

set in position with regular or hot tweezers
hit it with some hot air until the paste melts check alignment and walk away

don't be stabbing poking or otherwise trying to hold down delicate components the solder will do that for you
its way less of a headache if you just set the hotair machine up properly

don't have one then take it to a reputable shop that does board repair

if you try and do it with a hot tip and you are not a extremely practiced hand you will destroy the traces and then you are in for a fight
 
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