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New case fans

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Hello, I'm gonna try to make this simple, hopefully you can help me.

I have an old case with six fans with dust filter installed (all 120mm, 2 front + 1 bottom intake, 1 rear + 2 top exhaust), all fans branded NOX (like the case) except one Arctic F12, I cannot know how good, or better said, how bad these fans are, because there is basically no reviews. Since one of them has died and the front two make weird noises from time to time, I want to replace the NOX ones with Arctic P12.

However, I'm not sure how much cooling performance I can gain. My case has a 5,25 and an HDD bay (the second one is removed), so airflow is already restricted and may not get much better. Secondly, in case I end up getting these fans, I don't know which version to buy. My case has a fan controller, but only works with 3pin fans. Also, my motherboard allow individual configuration with PWM and voltage and I can link it to the sensor I want, which I believe would be a better option than manual setting (high 100% RPM and low unknown %).

I'm not sure what to do because the case is almost ten years old now, it's in a good condition (a couple of front USB don't work but that's it) but worse case scenario it's a €40 investment and I don't know if it's worth it or it's better to spend a bit more and get another case, or just simply don't change anything and keep things like they're now.

Now that I re-read my post before sending, I realize that I failed making it simple, too many doubts and questions, sorry guys but I just don't know what to do. Hopefully you can clear my head.
 

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its not a bad case. Those hard drive mounting cages look removable like on some corsair and fractal cases. There is probably a few screws holding the one in the center together and you can remove one after you undo them for better airflow

as for fans. It doesnt need to break the bank. throw all the old fans out and grab yourself some Arctic P12s which are so so so cheap. Pick up two PWM splitters while youre at it so you can run the front and bottom fans as one channel and the top and rear fans as the same to optimise airflow. For instance, you can set all the front and bottom fans to standard/turbo and the top/rear fans to silent -- you always want intake fans to be faster than the ones pulling the air out.
 
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Why not check the temperatures first? The cheapest solution would be just removing the bad fans if the temperatures are acceptable.
 
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its not a bad case. Those hard drive mounting cages look removable like on some corsair and fractal cases. There is probably a few screws holding the one in the center together and you can remove one after you undo them for better airflow

as for fans. It doesnt need to break the bank. throw all the old fans out and grab yourself some Arctic P12s which are so so so cheap. Pick up two PWM splitters while youre at it so you can run the front and bottom fans as one channel and the top and rear fans as the same to optimise airflow. For instance, you can set all the front and bottom fans to standard/turbo and the top/rear fans to silent -- you always want intake fans to be faster than the ones pulling the air out.
Yeah I already removed one cage like in this picture as I didn't need it. There's a model of the P12 called pwn pst that already come with splitter, these are the ones I should buy I guess? Or save a few € and buy the 3 pin ones and set the speed (intake/exhaust) with the case fan controller? The later allows for less customization, just high or low speed.
Why not check the temperatures first? The cheapest solution would be just removing the bad fans if the temperatures are acceptable.
The temperatures are acceptable I think, but I have nothing to compare them to because I have never tested the case with different fans. The thing is that I've been mining with the GPU since January and it's a single fan GPU, with summer arriving now it's reaching +70°C and it's pretty loud. The nvme also gets quite hot but it's placed right below the GPU and I don't think I can do much more to help while it's mining. CPU is fine at 70-72°C with prime95 which is a workload I will never reach in real life. VRM is about 85°C with prime95 too.

The broken fan is one of the exhaust in the top, and the two front fans make noise for minutes if they're stopped for some time, the remaining fans are ok as far as I know but I don't know anything about their quality, that's why I'm considering changing them too for reliable ones like P12.
 
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Waste of time and money to replace all fans. Unless current ones are loud, they are fine. Replace broken fans and keep the case.
 

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Unless you have high heat components, the extra fans may not be doing anything

Your system is pretty chill, i doubt it'd even hit 250W at the wall (for context, my GPU is 400W alone)

I advise removing all noisy fans, see how temps go... and if they're bad, grab a 3 or 4 pack of decent fans you can use with that case fan controller
 
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I'm not sure what to do because the case is almost ten years old now, it's in a good condition (a couple of front USB don't work but that's it) but worse case scenario it's a €40 investment and I don't know if it's worth it or it's better to spend a bit more and get another case, or just simply don't change anything and keep things like they're now.

Now that I re-read my post before sending, I realize that I failed making it simple, too many doubts and questions, sorry guys but I just don't know what to do. Hopefully you can clear my head.

The old fan system can be totally replaced very economically. Look over this Package on Amazon. Follow the suggestions for many other packages, styles, manufacturers and prices!

I looked through my orders, this is a set I used in an all white PC for a soft blue theme, these fans worked out perfectly!
White frames 6 pack. Amazon.com
 
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Unless you have high heat components, the extra fans may not be doing anything

Your system is pretty chill, i doubt it'd even hit 250W at the wall (for context, my GPU is 400W alone)

I advise removing all noisy fans, see how temps go... and if they're bad, grab a 3 or 4 pack of decent fans you can use with that case fan controller
That's what I fear, that no improvement is achieved by changing the whole fan setup. I know that if I open my side panel, temps improve by 3-4 degrees (in the gpu while mining, which is my main concern right now), perhaps there's not much more to be gained here.

There are no noisy fans in my case right now. I have the fan controller at high speed and it's barely audible (except the GPU fan, that one is noisy as hell). But perhaps that also means not enough airflow is coming into the case, as they're probably too weak. I don't even know their model number, but I found some similar ones with these specifications:

40.5 CFM
19 dBA
Static pressure 1.53 mm H2O

Perhaps they're pretty good, but considering they're unknown fans from a shit brand like Nox, I wouldn't bet on that.

The only one not connected to the fan controller is an Arctic F12 that I have placed in the bottom and controlled by the motherboard with a fan curve.
The old fan system can be totally replaced very economically. Look over this Package on Amazon. Follow the suggestions for many other packages, styles, manufacturers and prices!

I looked through my orders, this is a set I used in an all white PC for a soft blue theme, these fans worked out perfectly!
White frames 6 pack. Amazon.com
Thanks for the suggestions. I hate RGB though, the pc is on 24/7 and I have enough lights in the room already, I always turn everything off.
 
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IMO, if you’re buying two 3-packs, I would just get a new case. I’m not sure what your market looks like but you can get some decent cases with okay fans for $50 that would probably be an upgrade overall. The Corsair 4000D and Phanteks P300a come to mind, as well as the Fractal Focus and metallicgear now air. None would be a significant upgrade over your current case, but the more modern layout, working ports, and potentially less restrictive intake are always nice to have. If you’re willing to jump to $70 you can do pretty well with modern cases.

That said, I agree with everyone else — sounds like your temps are fine, so why bother?

Some troubleshooting:
Are your front fans on a fan curve? If they’re making noise at startup and the noise goes away after some use, your starting voltage may be too low. Try running them a little faster at idle and maybe they’ll sound normal.
I’d get rid of those fan filters — assuming you clean your PC every now and again it looks like the front mesh would be a sufficient filter. Hopefully this’ll get some more air to your GPU.
Try removing the PCI brackets — this should give your GPU more air to breathe. Might consider flipping your F12 depending on your GPU’s cooler.
And agreed with everyone else — get rid of those dead fans! They’re just taking up space and creating more resistance in your case.
 
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IMO, if you’re buying two 3-packs, I would just get a new case. I’m not sure what your market looks like but you can get some decent cases with okay fans for $50 that would probably be an upgrade overall. The Corsair 4000D and Phanteks P300a come to mind, as well as the Fractal Focus and metallicgear now air. None would be a significant upgrade over your current case, but the more modern layout, working ports, and potentially less restrictive intake are always nice to have. If you’re willing to jump to $70 you can do pretty well with modern cases.

That said, I agree with everyone else — sounds like your temps are fine, so why bother?

Some troubleshooting:
Are your front fans on a fan curve? If they’re making noise at startup and the noise goes away after some use, your starting voltage may be too low. Try running them a little faster at idle and maybe they’ll sound normal.
I’d get rid of those fan filters — assuming you clean your PC every now and again it looks like the front mesh would be a sufficient filter. Hopefully this’ll get some more air to your GPU.
Try removing the PCI brackets — this should give your GPU more air to breathe. Might consider flipping your F12 depending on your GPU’s cooler.
And agreed with everyone else — get rid of those dead fans! They’re just taking up space and creating more resistance in your case.
I will take a look at those cases.

The front fans are currently being managed by the case fan controller, at 'high speed' which I would say it's 100%. The only fan not on the case fan controller is the bottom one.

Regarding dust filters, the front get a bit of dust so something goes through the mesh, bottom dust filter (fan and psu) take a ton of dust. I also find dust inside the case, it's not completely sealed.

The GPU is a weird one, the original EVGA 1060 SC had very good core temps but VRM suffered. Then EVGA decided to change the design and blocked the exit path to air for the back of the case so core temps are higher at the expense of more air to the VRM (in theory). I don't know if removing the pci brackets would help, but I can try. I'm not sure what you mean by flipping the fan though.
 

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Hey thats not a terrible idea, a new case would help temps and could come with a bunch of fans for the same price
 
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Thanks for the suggestions. I hate RGB though, the pc is on 24/7 and I have enough lights in the room already, I always turn everything off.

This is a guess, maybe that's what the topmost left and right buttons are for.

1625139984397.png
 
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hi mate,

as far as my old-mans eyes could see there are 4-pin connectors @ your motherboard. the fans are manageable by your board spinning wise.
okay now the german guy speaks out as well but invest a bit in the future - the person who buys cheap; buys a seconds time!


maybe they are not that colorful as u may want but imo those fancy ones often look like the circus is in town!
black is beautiful. and the ball bearing is more important. 3fans a quite enough if u place them on the right position.
beQuiet are the german ones and noctua are very nice as well from austria.

3 different types of air flow are the most efficient:
even - under - over _pressure

Screenshot 2021-07-01 032534.png
fgfg.png
bn.png


:toast:
 
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Hey thats not a terrible idea, a new case would help temps and could come with a bunch of fans for the same price
I've been looking at cases and I'm not totally convinced. The ones @claes recommended above and I've searched for other models like NR600 or H500, and Silverstone RL06 PRO which seems to be good at cooling according to GN for 80€. But looking at GN reviews, his delta ºC seems to be close to the ones I have in my current case. My current temps with Prime95 small ffts and GPU mining (74ºC) at the same time, seems a bit high especially the VRM but the ambient temperature is 29ºC, it's a delta of about 50ºC, similar as GN tests results. Of course I cannot replicate his testing methods but it's some extra info. GN setup probably uses more W and hence produce more heat than mine.

This is a guess, maybe that's what the topmost left and right buttons are for.

View attachment 206084

Yes, I had noticed the remote but didn't check the buttons.

hi mate,

as far as my old-mans eyes could see there are 4-pin connectors @ your motherboard. the fans are manageable by your board spinning wise.
okay now the german guy speaks out as well but invest a bit in the future - the person who buys cheap; buys a seconds time!


maybe they are not that colorful as u may want but imo those fancy ones often look like the circus is in town!
black is beautiful. and the ball bearing is more important. 3fans a quite enough if u place them on the right position.
beQuiet are the german ones and noctua are very nice as well from austria.

3 different types of air flow are the most efficient:
even - under - over _pressure

View attachment 206092View attachment 206093View attachment 206094

:toast:

Yes, my motherboard has 4 pins and can control fans, but it can also control 3 pin fans. I thought the motherboard controlling 3 pin fans instead of 4 pin was less accurate than PWM but I can customize the fan curve at % and seems to work just fine. Thing is I only have 4 or 5 headers and I have 6 fans.

Thanks for the information regarding airflow, are they classified as best --> worst (even-under-over) or there's no difference in regards to what's the best solution of the three?
 
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I thought the motherboard controlling 3 pin fans instead of 4 pin was less accurate than PWM
no! look
3 pin fans have got a static spinning frequency like always 1200r/pm e.g. u cannot adjust them automaticly.
4 pin PWM can handle the r/pm range wise from 200r/pm - 2000r/pm without steps. that means they are always as fast as the case hot is. cold case 200r/pm, hot CPu/case up to 2000r/pm.

use always 4 pin if u can. trust me, without knowing me.
u just need 1/2 for the CPU. depends on the CPU if 2 are required. and for the case max. 3 fans. like the picture i posted to u.
all will be good then. all adjustments are made in the BIOS for the future. just one time the rest is automatic.
better airflow. cooler temps. AND most important; noise reduction.

i use picture 2 BUT vice versa. 1:2.

most of the ppl here trust arctic cooling and corsair. e.g. beQuiet and Noctua are not THAT common. but in their quality even to better. IMO


and i have the case beQuiet Pure BASE 600 and i just love it; style, understatement, huge supplies package and best price in that category.
 
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my motherboard has 4 pins and can control fans, but it can also control 3 pin fans. I thought the motherboard controlling 3 pin fans instead of 4 pin was less accurate than PWM but I can customize the fan curve at % and seems to work just fine. Thing is I only have 4 or 5 headers and I have 6 fans.

Just about anyone who knows the difference between a PWM and another fan connector inside a computer case would have solved a problematic chassis fan in a couple of minutes with another fan.
Link to a fan splitter cable for another solution.

I charge $300 an hour for airflow engineering. It's okay if you just want to hang out and chat, but the fan problem you HAD is solved, go buy a new fan! Lol
 
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Just about anyone who knows the difference between a PWM and another fan connector inside a computer case would have solved a problematic chassis fan in a couple of minutes with another fan.
Link to a fan splitter cable for another solution.

I charge $300 an hour for airflow engineering. It's okay if you just want to hang out and chat, but the fan problem you HAD is solved, go buy a new fan! Lol
i am not that 1000% sure what u mean, but if I AM right in understanding the following will happen:

if u have ONE pwm connector and u split it into TWO via a cable-bridge the abbility to let them automatically operate by the BIOS gets LOST. the bios does not know anymore which fan must be turned up or down in his frequency. the bios just let them run in one specific frequency.

worst (even-under-over) or there's no difference in regards to what's the best solution of the three?
no there is no quality difference in air flow. it JUST DEPENDS on how your case is physically build up.
 
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i am not that 1000% sure what u mean, but if I AM right in understanding the following will happen:

if u have ONE pwm connector and u split it into TWO via a cable-bridge the abbility to let them automatically operate by the BIOS gets LOST. the bios does not know anymore which fan must be turned up or down in his frequency. the bios just let them run in one specific frequency.


no there is no quality difference in air flow. it JUST DEPENDS on how your case is physically build up.

PWM mixing-isolation solved for $6. Next?

1625152665742.png
 
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Software Windows 11 Pro
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PWM mixing-isolation solved for $6. Next?

View attachment 206106

for me this is the same as i described above just another "color"
bios is only 8MB huge. it has not the intellect ppl assume.
pretty easy: ONE PWM connector for just ONE PWM vent. IF u want them operated autmatically. otherwise u can even build in 20 vents. but just like they were 3 pins only in their technical behaviour
 
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I think you misunderstand this.
  1. The case has 6-7 fans.
  2. The controller supports one less.
  3. Add a two-way splitter to any two fans.
  4. Those TWO fans now have only ONE controller position.
  5. Connect the additional fan to the empty position of the controller.
Everything works as designed, two front/top fans can be paired without damage or decreasing cooling efficiency.

Okay??
 
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I think you misunderstand this.
  1. The case has 6-7 fans.
  2. The controller supports one less.
  3. Add a two-way splitter to any two fans.
  4. Those TWO fans now have only ONE controller position.
  5. Connect the additional fan to the empty position of the controller.
Everything works as designed, two front/top fans can be paired without damage or decreasing cooling efficiency.

Okay??
now i get it.
but anyway if u position the fans as intended, like the pictures i posted, 7 fans are two too much. imo. 1-2(cpu)+3(case) and everything is fine.
the connectors u suggested are then the right ones to split if needed. yes.

beside, if he would buy a solid case for 65-95€/$ proper fans would be included as well. so 2 flies slapped with just one hit.
 
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Couple of questions for you:

1) Do you have anything mounted in the 5.25" bays?
2) How many storage drives are in the HDD cage you have?

If you have spare 5.25" bays and only a couple storage drives in the HDD cage, you can get mounts for the 5.25" bay to install HDDs or SSDs. Then you can simply remove the HDD cage if it's empty. That's what I did when I had a Fractal Design Arc XL case. I had my DVD burner in one bay and used a couple of 5.25" HDD mounts (these ones, to be exact) and I pulled out the HDD cages to keep them from blocking the air flow from the front intake fans.

Took me a while to track down an old picture of my Arc XL case to show you the layout:
Untitled.png
 
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Couple of questions for you:

1) Do you have anything mounted in the 5.25" bays?
2) How many storage drives are in the HDD cage you have?

If you have spare 5.25" bays and only a couple storage drives in the HDD cage, you can get mounts for the 5.25" bay to install HDDs or SSDs. Then you can simply remove the HDD cage if it's empty. That's what I did when I had a Fractal Design Arc XL case. I had my DVD burner in one bay and used a couple of 5.25" HDD mounts (these ones, to be exact) and I pulled out the HDD cages to keep them from blocking the air flow from the front intake fans.

Took me a while to track down an old picture of my Arc XL case to show you the layout:
View attachment 206123

I have one DVD drive, 2 HDD and one SSD. I'm not sure if the bottom HDD cage is detachable. Thanks for taking the time.

Thanks all for your help.
 
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