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New PC Build - CPU Overheating

Alexxar

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Hey guys,
So recently I built a new PC - I'll list the parts below. Everything set up, I decided I will test performance on some games. So I downloaded a couple of high end-ish games and what I noticed is my CPU on game load (less than a minute after I started the game) the temp goes 75 C degrees. After 10 minutes of playing it escalates gradually to 95 C. Which is insane. Read some articles about a bug in AMD Balanced Power Plan so I manually updated the drivers, but no difference. Tried undervolting, no success. Same happened when I went and bought a good quality thermal paste and replaced it with the stock one.
However I had some kind of success when I turned on power saver mode but it only slowed a bit down the progression of CPU heating up, I mean it goes up to 90-95 again, but it takes a bit more time.
One thing I'm not sure if it's okay or not - CPU cores rapidly change their clock speed going up to 4250MHz, even though CPU is 3.6GHz.

Please share your opinions, hope I can get rid of this problem soon and start using my PC normally.

PC specs:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600
GPU: Gigabyte RTX 2060 Super
Motherboard: MSI B450 GAMING Plus Max
RAM: 2x8GB G.Skill Trident Z
PSU: CORSAIR RM650X 650w
Case: FD Focus G
CPU Cooler: Wraith stealth (stock one)

Note: Yup, I am considering changing the cooler but even with the stock one it's insane to have this experience..

Thanks!
 
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Something is definately wrong. Shouldn't be getting that hot with a stock cooler.

So you are sure it's mounted correctly? And when you connected it first then took it off, did it look like the IHS had thermal paste more or less all over it (showing it's making proper contact)? I'm assuming you have two front fans blowing in and one blowing out of back in that case?
 
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How many case fans do you have? Just the stock two from the case? Where are they positioned? Are they connected properly and running at full speed when the system heats up? Is your CPU fan speed ramping up as it should?

Overall, 95°C isn't necessarily bad - it's an entirely safe temperature for the CPU unless it's also heavily overclocked - but I understand the desire to have it run cooler. Remember that a small air cooler like that needs plenty of fresh air to work well. And remember that most reviews use much beefier coolers and often run on open test benches - any case will be hotter than that.
 
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Have you tried disabling PBO in the bios? Apparently that causes problems.

There could also be a bug in the temp readings overall. If you attempt to touch the cooler or place hand near it, does it actually feel super hot?

If I'm correct, stock cooler is the stealth one. I heard questionable things with them and in a test build (3500X) I just didn't bother with it and installed a cheap Deepcool Gammax 400 tower cooler ($30 CAD) and it does wonders.
 
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Those temps are inanely high. Laptop with that cpu don't run that hot.
 
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Some motherboard manufacturers intentionally declare an incorrect (too small) motherboard specific reference value in AGESA. Since AM4 Ryzen CPUs rely on telemetry sourced from the motherboard VRM to determine their power consumption, declaring an incorrect reference value will affect the power consumption seen by the CPU. For instance, if the motherboard manufacturer would declare 50% of the correct value, the CPU would think it consumes half the power than it actually does. In this case, the CPU would allow itself to consume twice the power of its set power limits, even when at stock. It allows the CPU to clock higher due to the effectively lifted power limits however, it also makes the CPU to run hotter and potentially negatively affects its life-span, same ways as overclocking does. The difference compared to overclocking or using AMD PBO, is that this is done completely clandestine and that in the past, there has been no way for most of the end-users to detect it, or react to it.


 

Alexxar

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Thanks for quick replies,

@sepheronx, yes I mounted it from diagonals, counting every screw turn, so it's equally spreading, and till it cannot be tightened anymore without brute force.

@Valantar, only 2 front fans came with the case I am not really sure if they blow on opposite directions but definitely both work without any problems..

One thing I forgot to mention, when using AMD Balanced Power Plan, the temperature even idle is unstable, it varies between 50 and 70 degrees changing with ~5 C every second randomly up/down. You know the graph that logs your CPU temp on MSI afterburner is like spikes.
 
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damn if that case has no exhaust fan and you're using wraith stealth then no wonder.
use one intake as rear exhaust.
 

Alexxar

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@P4-630, so please correct me if I got you wrong, does that mean that there's nothing I can do? Or the one thing I can do to solve my problem is to change the Motherboard? Isn't there such setting in the BIOS?

Thanks!

@cucker tarlson, could such thing really lead to that big of a problem? I'll do this for sure, but I just got really hopeless after so many unsuccessfull attempts..
 
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of course 2060S is a 200w card you're getting massive heat buildup
 
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@P4-630, so please correct me if I got you wrong, does that mean that there's nothing I can do? Or the one thing I can do to solve my problem is to change the Motherboard? Isn't there such setting in the BIOS?

Thanks!

Check what HWiNFO is saying.
I see you have a MSI B450 motherboard.
They were talking about X5xx motherboards.

I was just reading about this on hardware.info
 

Alexxar

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@cucker tarlson, I'll try that, so if that's so it might be also more effective than changing the stock cooler with an aftermarket one. Thanks for the advice, I'll sure try it. If that doesn't fix it, should I go for the aftermarket cooler? Thanks!
 
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@cucker tarlson, I'll try that, so if that's so it might be also more effective than changing the stock cooler with an aftermarket one. Thanks for the advice, I'll sure try it. If that doesn't fix it, should I go for the aftermarket cooler? Thanks!
yes it'll not fix the wraith stealth it's a basic cooler
 
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Have you tried disabling PBO in the bios? Apparently that causes problems.

There could also be a bug in the temp readings overall. If you attempt to touch the cooler or place hand near it, does it actually feel super hot?

If I'm correct, stock cooler is the stealth one. I heard questionable things with them and in a test build (3500X) I just didn't bother with it and installed a cheap Deepcool Gammax 400 tower cooler ($30 CAD) and it does wonders.
Also try default not auto settings.

Modern boards do a mild oc in auto and run core volts higher set it to defaults not auto.
 
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I would remount the cooler as the temps are just getting too high and the thing that makes me think it requires a remount is that the temps get high immediately. An aftermarket cooler will make all the difference even one of the lower end models and you might as well get an additional fan to extract air out of the back so that you have some nice airflow through the case.
 
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The stock cooler is crappy but I think you might want to verify it is mounted correctly. I get a lot of customers that failed to mount that particular stock cooler correctly. I guess it is trickier because it requires unscrewing brackets on the motherboard and carefully attaching the backplate. I see a lot of people failing to secure every corner, and usually they don't realize one corner might not be screwed down even though they swear they did it right. One corner unsecured makes it just tight enough to boot, and plenty loose enough to have really bad temperatures. Make sure every corner screw makes the click-click-click sound and pull on it to verify. I've built quite a few rigs with that stock cooler, and never had problems with heat at stock settings for 65W Ryzen processors, even in low airflow SFF cases.
 

Alexxar

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@theoneandonlymrk,
I just tried with Disabled PBO, as I don't have a default option, it was on, I switched it to Disabled and no difference.. Maybe it'll end up to be the cooling, that's my last hope.

By the way what I noticed is if I succeed to keep the cores' clock speed locked I mean if I somehow lock them / cap them on 3600mhz, it's fine. The problem appears when they start rapidly changing.
I mean here's what I tested:
- I created a power plan that uses minimum and maximum 99% of CPU, then in less demanding games it indeed uses 3525mhz,which for me, is not that bad and the temperature is cool and steady, but in some cases if probably the game is more demanding it just ignores my power plan and starts changing like crazy going up to 4250mhz every single core. Why does that happen, I really can't find a way to cap this mf....
 
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@theoneandonlymrk,
I just tried with Disabled PBO, as I don't have a default option, it was on, I switched it to Disabled and no difference.. Maybe it'll end up to be the cooling, that's my last hope.

By the way what I noticed is if I succeed to keep the cores' clock speed locked I mean if I somehow lock them / cap them on 3600mhz, it's fine. The problem appears when they start rapidly changing.
I mean here's what I tested:
- I created a power plan that uses minimum and maximum 99% of CPU, then in less demanding games it indeed uses 3525mhz,which for me, is not that bad and the temperature is cool and steady, but in some cases if probably the game is more demanding it just ignores my power plan and starts changing like crazy going up to 4250mhz every single core. Why does that happen, I really can't find a way to cap this mf....
For the time being try using AMD Ryzen master ,you can set a Voltage and core speed lower than stock ,test it with your favourite bench to make sure it's stable, and keep going lower on the volts and what you want on the clocks until your happy.

As others have said though get some fans for the case top and a hsf in time.
 
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Since nobody here has asked (myself included): what is the ambient temperature in the room?

And question number two: is the CPU ever actually thermal throttling? As in: when it gets hot, does it go below the base clock while under load? If not, then the CPU is telling you that this temperature is fine, within tolerable ranges, within what it's designed to handle.

Also, I thought the 3600 came with the Wraith Spire, not the Stealth - no wonder it's running hot with the Stealth. IMO, you won't get any better thermals than that with that cooler unless you have extremely good airflow in your case and low (below 20°C) ambient temperatures. While the 3600 is a 65W TDP cooler, it will maintain boost power up to ~88W if thermals allow it to, especially if the motherboard has some iffy boost settings. That cooler is a 65W max cooler, I definitely wouldn't expect it to handle any more. Get a cheap air cooler, there are plenty of options for any budget, case size, etc. I frankly wouldn't bother tweaking the setup, as you're not going to gain much from it. Also, disabling boost so that your CPU runs at base clock constantly? That's giving up a lot of performance. I wouldn't do it unless the games you play are very solidly GPU limited. And no matter what, get an exhaust fan. It doesn't need to be fancy, just any airflow-focused fan will do. No need for static pressure, no need for RGB unless you really want it.

So, step 1: Get an exhaust fan
Step 2: Get a cheap tower cooler (partly optional, at least if the CPU isn't actually throttling)
Step 3: Stop wasting time and performance trying to tweak your CPU to achieve something you won't ever do, leave it to self-regulate (its internal regulation is better at that than you will ever be)
Step 4: Relax and enjoy your PC
 
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Hey, have you checked your cpu fan speed/temperature curve in the BIOS? Sometimes default settings do not max out the fan out of the box.

Your case is generally good for airflow. I would consider moving one of the front fans to the rear as an exhaust. Check fan curves for those too.

Finally, there's a tweak you can do in ryzen master if you still can't lower your temperature: look for ppt value, this is the maximum allowed power going to the cpu. Default value is 88 watts for the 3600, try and gradually lower this value until you're comfortable with your temperature. This way you don't lose max boost clocks; multi-threaded tasks will see their clocks reduced slightly though.
 
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Try running a CPU burn in test or benchmark and check what the CPU temperature is. The temperature will probably be lower since only the CPU will get stressed by this. If it's a much lower, high air temperature inside your case could be causing the CPU overheating.

You could also try playing games with the case side panel off. If the temperature drops noticeably, then this could again indicate that high air temperature inside your case could be causing the CPU overheating.
 

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I know that this is much later down the line but I am having the same issue. Kinda rebuilt my pc but upgraded most of it in the process. What I find so curious is that the cpu acts the same as the 280mm aio. This is kind of like this situation in this thread https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/new-pc-build-cpu-overheating.268301/

I have repasted the cpu with the aio 7 times and as a reference tried the stock cooler with the same affect, ik the wraith is not great but it doesn’t thermal throttle to that point. I’m talking crashing my pc with cpu temp error and consistently crashing games on an hourly basis. Idle temps like the OP start at 40ish then as you open chrome or just leave it be or update a game the temps will rise to 65C. As soon as a game is opened the temps will rise to 80C and within 20mins of gaming on Warzone at least will crash my pc. My current hypothesis is a faulty cpu (bad cpu die to ihs contact) but I don’t believe that I got that unlucky. Or something to do with the motherboard I’m not sure. Will be testing old cpu in the system today but have been waiting for some thermal paste as I used my entire stock testing.

Another thing, power draw, the power draw of the cpu is extremely low, I have eco mode on in bios/ ryzen master so it can’t go above 45W and at idle pulling 25-30w it is at the temperatures shown above. Any help would be greatly appreciated. And while gaming before I enabled eco mode (which hasn’t helped at all btw) it was at 45-50W but still pushing out 95C. I also have a curve optimiser of currently -20 in bios but have tested it without one, a -30 and a -25 all to the same results.

Previous specs:
R5 3600
B450-f Strix
Arctic Freezer 34 eSports duo
16gb 3200mhz tforce delta t ram
Corsair carbide spec 02 case
650w psu
3070 FTW3 Ultra

New Specs

R5 5600x
b550i Strix (itx)
coolermaster 280mm radiator/ stock cooler wraith whatever
Same ram
Same gpu
NR200P Max case in optimal fan configuration with 2 top intake 2 bottom exhaust.
850w gold psu
Gen 4 riser cable
Mesh side panel
 
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Disregard.... Temps are fine for that case... Could be anything... psu/riser cable/gpu/cpu. what are your bsod error codes
 

Ferguiny

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No
Disregard.... Temps are fine for that case... Could be anything... psu/riser cable/gpu/cpu. what are your bsod error codes
they really are not ok not when all the videos I have watched on this case has had way lower temps, machines and more is the place to watch it

Also there are no bsods it just crashes to pre bios where it gives cpu temperature error. Other times it will just crash the game. I have seen plenty of videos in this case of with a cpu with higher thermal envelopes get much cooler in the low 80s with the same cooler as the NR200P Max is a Barebones case type of thing case, psu, riser cpu cooler
 
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Deleted member 24505

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Was there sticker/cover on the bottom of the cooler where i goes on the CPU on the AMD stock cooler?
 
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