New pc old gpu intense mouse lag in every aspect

[sekoitze]

Hello Guys,

I just build a new pc with new components except the used gpu buyed from an online website in my country.
Pc specs

PSU Aqyris pulsar ls white 650w 80+
Ryzen 7 5700x stock all settings
T ram team group 2x8GB ddr4 3200mhz dual channel
Mobo Gigabyte B550M DS3H
GPU Asus rog strix gtx 1070 ti
Id cooling se 224 xts white
Aqirys arcturus white that has 4 prebuild fans 3 intake 1 rear
Mouse Logitech G Pro X Superlight
Monitor Alienware aw2521h white 240hz


My problem is i got huge mouse lag in desktop and any game i play especially csgo i got huge huge lag i can't even play properly.
What i tried :

New ssd
New windows
New ram sticks
New CPU intel this time
New MOBO
New PSU
Another monitor
Another mouse wired or wireless doesn;t matter
Another gpu
Tried putting fans 60% on gpu still the same
Tried putting on max cpu cooler still the same
Moved ram sticks in the two other slots still the same
Anything related to mouse ex : mouse driver windows mouse settings and everything every little thing trust me
I'm on forums and everything from the day it started and i couldn't find nothing to help me.... i tried other gpus from my friends new ones ofc and still the problem is here.
Let's say for the moment i cannot use new psu new gpu i don't got the money for that but i will upgrade my pc on new tier brand psu 850w and rtx 3060 ti for the moment after this i want to buy 4070
One thing i found out that if i set my case fans on high and gpu also on 60% fan rpm instead of 0by default it's even more laggy than normal
I tried different mousepads used new different brands still the same
It's a long list of i tried...... i would write till i die this list trust me
Gpu temp is 55 max 60c while gaming and sometimes spikes like this on desktop
On idle is 40c with all fans on low profile
Cpu temp i saw recently that sometimes spikes up to 80c rn here is summer and it's fucking hot.
But usual just 60-70 sometimes while gaming ofc.
I got nvidia settings on performance and best settings for gaming and power plan on high performance.

The only thing that i didn't tried was a new psu and new gpu only new psu i tried and it wass much better but still there----------



If you guys can help me with anything i will be thankful for that.

 

[1freedude]

Did you replicate problem with different mouse? Where is mouse plugged in?

 

[Beginner Macro Device]

Since you had some improvements after changing your PSU you probably wanna try a UPS. Your issue seems to be fueled by unstable electricity.

Clocks, voltages, temperatures, everything else feels more or less normal, yet +12V is a little bit too high.

Provide with +12V, +5V, and +3.3V values whilst under heavy benchmarking (Cinebench R23 + Superposition simultaneously). Benchmark results don't matter, they will spoil each other anyway.

 

[Mussels]

I'll read the details and post some ideas later, just first of all: Thank you for listing all the steps you've taken so far, and documenting all the information for us. It helps a lot.
I've got several of those logitech mice so i know them well.

After reading your testing i'm going to lean away from a lot of possible issues and say it may be the monitor and how its connected to the PC, or it's software/software settings screwing things up.


What refresh rate is the monitor running at and how is it connected?

That's a 360Hz Gsync display with no freesync support according to Rtings (Firmware updates may have changed that)

The display *requires* displayport to work correctly
If you enabled Gsync in 'windowed mode' in the Nvidia control panel, then anything running on your desktop at a lower frame rate will drop the refresh rate for all running applications.
iCue caused this for a lot of people with some janky 15FPS animations in the software, at one point.


If you've set it to 10 bit colour, then you're using more bandwidth and the refresh rate drops - and this also breaks MPO overlays and will stop independent refresh rates working (which makes the Gsync issue above, occur since everythings forced to run at the frame rate of the slowest on-screen window)


are you using wallpaper engine, animated wallpapers etc?

 

[sekoitze]

Did you replicate problem with different mouse? Where is mouse plugged in?

i wrote that i tried different mices wired and wireless ones it's still there.
My mouse is plugged in the dongle the motherboard 3.0 / 2.0 and i tried to put it in the motherboard just the usb whitout dongle and cable and problem still there

I'll read the details and post some ideas later, just first of all: Thank you for listing all the steps you've taken so far, and documenting all the information for us. It helps a lot.
I've got several of those logitech mice so i know them well.

After reading your testing i'm going to lean away from a lot of possible issues and say it may be the monitor and how its connected to the PC, or it's software/software settings screwing things up.


What refresh rate is the monitor running at and how is it connected?

That's a 360Hz Gsync display with no freesync support according to Rtings (Firmware updates may have changed that)
View attachment 306472

The display *requires* displayport to work correctly
If you enabled Gsync in 'windowed mode' in the Nvidia control panel, then anything running on your desktop at a lower frame rate will drop the refresh rate for all running applications.
iCue caused this for a lot of people with some janky 15FPS animations in the software, at one point.


If you've set it to 10 bit colour, then you're using more bandwidth and the refresh rate drops - and this also breaks MPO overlays and will stop independent refresh rates working (which makes the Gsync issue above, occur since everythings forced to run at the frame rate of the slowest on-screen window)


are you using wallpaper engine, animated wallpapers etc?

Hello there,
My monitor is 240hz and has gsync and freesync.
But on my monitor settings appears only freesync and in nvidia cpanel i have this setting called monitor gsync or fixed refresh rate and i put it on gsnyc for anti ghosting.
It's connected directly into gpu with displayport cable to get that 240hz.

Since you had some improvements after changing your PSU you probably wanna try a UPS. Your issue seems to be fueled by unstable electricity.

Clocks, voltages, temperatures, everything else feels more or less normal, yet +12V is a little bit too high.

Provide with +12V, +5V, and +3.3V values whilst under heavy benchmarking (Cinebench R23 + Superposition simultaneously). Benchmark results don't matter, they will spoil each other anyway.

I had the same problem on an older pc where i used to live in a rented apartment in a new complex.
So i'm guessing this is not the problem? I mean electricity?
I can buy one and try out and then return it but if that happened to me in another apartment... is this may be the problem?
So you sayin i should try cinebench and superposition while screenshot hwmonitor on those +12V, +5V, and +3.3V values am i correct?

 

[Beginner Macro Device]

is this may be the problem?

Yes.

So you sayin i should try cinebench and superposition while screenshot hwmonitor on those +12V, +5V, and +3.3V values am i correct?

Yes.

 

[sekoitze]

I just ran cinebench and superposition just for some minutes because i can t run them both at the same time and showing also hwinfo .... the superposition would crash because it;s only on fullscreen....
I can do them separately

Yes.

Yes.

Even if i experienced this problem in another apartment another building etc.
Also i forgot to mention that i had a friend came over with his prebuild pc and csgo and everything else was smooth and 0 mouse lag
Maybe if i buy a new psu and new gpu to have the all pc new let's say this could go away?...
Even so why it shouldn;t work with any used gpu.... or any new gpu and same psu who is new also.... something weird

 

[Mussels]

tried to put it in the motherboard just the usb whitout dongle and cable and problem still there

"tried to put in motherboard" - which ports on the motherboard? it matters. They are not all equal.

My monitor is 240hz and has gsync and freesync.

No it isnt, unless you posted the wrong monitor name.
That's a 360Hz display.

That's also not answering the question of what is it running at right now




Either you have the AW2721D, or you're running the wrong refresh rate due to your DP cable or GPU not being up to the task.

The GPU you half-named is one of two possibilities
ROG-STRIX-GTX1070TI-A8G-GAMING | Graphics Cards
ROG-STRIX-GTX1070TI-8G-GAMING | Graphics Cards |

Fortunately, they have the same display outputs.

That said, they do not support DSC, display port compression which is likely why you're stuck at 240Hz.


DP is 360Hz, HDMI is 240Hz for the display you listed

 

[LabRat 891]

A quick internet search for Logitech G Pro X Lag comes up with more than a few other users with the same issue.

Logitech recommended seeing if there's a firmware update.

Original Post
Hey all,

in last few weeks my G PRO superlight sometimes lag/stutter when in "dual monitor mode", if i put it back to one monitor or I plug the cable into the mouse it does not have these kind of issues. Im running 1350 DPI, 1000Hz. But it really started to have affect while gaming and doing usual PC work. Also I am not seeing myself switching for any other mouse.

Thanks for your tips and help!

Reply
Hi u/the_airt,

Try the below steps and check if it helps fix the issue:

1. Unpair/repair or disconnect/reconnect hardware using the Connection Utility software: https://support.logi.com/hc/articles/360025141574
2. Update the device's firmware:

• Download and install Logitech G-Hub (Available here: https://www.logitechg.com/innovation/g-hub.html)

• Launch the software, select the device from the home screen then go to Settings

• If a firmware update is available, a Blue """"Update"""" button would appear under the firmware version on the top right corner of the screen

Another user had a similar issue caused by a dirty lens on the sensor.

I had the same problem.. ended up beeing the hole of the sensor that had alot off dust inside!! Its jot easy to get it off but once I did it worked perfectly fine after! Hope it helps

A couple users said that disabling/uninstalling any Logitech software, and then unpairing/re-pairing the mouse 'fixed' the problem.

Also, others have reported that the Logitech software itself, running in the background, causes the lag/stuttering.
Apparently, there's a windows settings menu, where you have to add it as a high-performance graphics app, otherwise Windows might override the power profile. or something...


All-in-all, this seems to be a saga w/ these mice, reaching-back years. My suggested solution, would be to get a real mouse. If the issue persists w/ a known-good wired mouse, then I'd investigate the power, etc. angle.
Wireless is almost literally asking for hard-to-explain/fix issues.

 

[sekoitze]

Hi guys thank u for everything and your time to respond to my thread.
I found the problem i knew this is the problem but i didn t think so because i had 2 pc parts broken and i was testing only one.
I bought a new psu from a tier list and new gpu just for test and it s running smooth lag it s not there everything it s unreal so it was both noth only one.
Thank you guys have a good day and can someone tc this thread if nobody find it useful

Ok so i played 1 day and i put my cooler on full speed again lag but nut 100 percent and also if i set case fan to max another lag... someone knows why???

Ok guys the eternal lag it s now back.... what am i doing i want to kill myself i can t stand it anymore... so everything i got new it s new new new new but still lag...

 

[Mussels]

Very unexpected for a PSU to cause such problems, since usually bad voltages result in a PC not booting at all or crashing
how are you adjusting these fans? what fans are they? Where are they connected *exactly*

without the full information we cant answer the question - theres too many possible variables, with seperate problems and fixes.
Motherboard fan headers are often limited to 1A output or less so multiple fans connected with splitters could be overloading the ports.



As one example of why we need detailed information, there are *seven* versions of that motherboard with hardware differences between them

The 1.7 board seems to have three PWM fan headers with 1A output each, but I've got no way of knowing what fans (or how many) are on these headers or if you're using software to control them vs the BIOS, or even some sort of hardware fan controller. This could be a software problem with whatever you're controlling speeds with.


5700x are very cold running so it should be fine, but that heatsink in the OP is not good for ryzen
You'll need to use HWinfo while gaming and stress testing (seperate tests, so you can see if the GPU heat is adding to the problem or not) and and be sure the maximum temps *per core* aren't thermal throttling, because those heatpipes can line up and have your CPU cores in the gaps between the heatpipes and have one (or more) cores overheating while the rest are cold, and some monitoring programs only show averages of all the cores combined and not the hottest one.

The fact you've been changing so much means the problem is something you've likely ignored or assumed isn't the issue until now, a common part between your tests. Be it the mouse, the monitor, software, or chosen settings (refresh rate, monitor settings on the monitor, etc)

Do not let your assumptions waste your time. Do not rely on logic to provide your answers - only thorough testing and documentation can be used to make things less likely.
You can NEVER rule something out entirely as compound issues exist. You can only rule out a specific combination as not being the cause of a problem in your specific test.
"CPU doesnt overheat in R23, so it cant be heat related" for example is "logical" until you add in a GPUs heat as well and it does overheat - or the GPU's heat makes the VRMs overheat so the CPU throttles down, but the GPU and CPU both test 'normal' when tested seperately.

 

[sekoitze]

Thank you for the reply i will be home in 1 hour and in i will test what you said.
I got the 4 fans in the case that are connected to a fan hub conected to psu through sata connection and when i set them on + from the remote the lag goes crazy than it is and also when i enter bios and set cooler fan to full speed again lag goes crazy.
I will be home in one hour and i will do what you told me to so in your reply.
You are right i m kinda fixed and i think only about logic and one part or two pc parts and blame them.
Also idk how to read temps and everything i will screenshot nvidia settings and hwinfo while doing what you told me to do

 

[GerKNG]

Also idk how to read temps and everything

Download HWinfo64: https://www.hwinfo.com/

 

[sekoitze]

I have hwinfo installed idk how to read all the amps voltages temps if they are good or no that s why i need your help guys
I will be at my desk to test in 5 min and i will comeback with photos of the tests

Hello,
So these are the test while gaming and i will comeback with the stress test

This is the test in cinebench 23 multi core and in that photo you can see the fan hub and the remote with +/- for the case fans prebuild.
They are all conected to that fan that has an sata connection which is conected to the psu.
Right know i returned the new psu and gpu because i got same lag that i had with my second hand gpu and new psu that i thought is broken....
And you are right i'm thinking logic and i blame only one part or something and i don't think about anything else.
I will upload also a picture of my bios version and so you know sometimes when i play csgo let's say and go to desktop open hwinfo my temp is around 75c or 80 sometimes i never experienced in my life such a high temp from the cpu.
And also this kind of cooler i've used my whole life.
Before this i had an 240aio cooler from id cooling with arctic mx4 paste it was better at temps but the radiator was falling from the case because it has support only for radiator it's hard to explain anyways i just want to say that the cpu cooler may not be the problem.
After i game when i touch the back of the case where the cpu is is burning hot also the window burns and the vrms also from the mb...
Maybe you are right something about temps throttling .. idk
If you need anything else test or anything please let me know so i can update them.
Thank you again guys for your time and i cannot waitf for your replies.

These are my settings nvidia for gaming

so here is the photo ingame when i play matchmaking csgo it lags horrible unplayable.....

 

[GerKNG]

Temps are all good.
if it's not the fan controller (which is pretty unlikely... but who knows) i'd say it's the GPU/Monitor combination. GTX 10 Series has lots of issues with DSC and i am pretty sure that 1080p 360Hz is not properly supported with these cards or causes problems. (i remember having one of the first Dell 240Hz Monitors and it was awful with my 1080 Ti)
how is the input lag when you run the monitor at let's say 144Hz or 60Hz?

 

[sekoitze]

i will unplug the fan hub to see and also the monitor it's 240hz variant not 360
i tried with my friend new rtx 3060 and the lag was still there..

and also i tried the same monitor from my friend and another one benq 144hz and it was the same lag...

 

[GerKNG]

So it's your system/software.

 

[Mussels]

I got the 4 fans in the case that are connected to a fan hub conected to psu through sata connection and when i set them on + from the remote the lag

I'm going to suggest that adaptor may be faulty, can you post a link to the fan hub and a photo of how its wired up?

i will unplug the fan hub to see and also the monitor it's 240hz variant not 360
i tried with my friend new rtx 3060 and the lag was still there..

and also i tried the same monitor from my friend and another one benq 144hz and it was the same lag...

the 240Hz variant has a different model number
If its not the monitor, the GPU or the mouse, it's an issue with software or hardware you havent tested like this fan controller - fan controllers do not and should not cause any sort of lag issue.

 

[sekoitze]

It s a fan hub from the pc case that comes with the case that has the 4 fans connected to it and i tested it without and it s still there
I wrote the wrong s/n for the monitor it s the 240 hz variant.
As i said i tried already with new gpu and it s the same, another mouse wired and wireless and it s the same

 

[Mussels]

And also this kind of cooler i've used my whole life.

You havent used chiplet CPU's your whole life, since they never existed. That sort of cooler on a 5800x wouldnt be able to run stock settings, let alone PBO.
The first types of those coolers had solid baseplates, the direct heatpipes are the budget versions of them.

i will unplug the fan hub to see and also the monitor it's 240hz variant not 360
i tried with my friend new rtx 3060 and the lag was still there..

and also i tried the same monitor from my friend and another one benq 144hz and it was the same lag...

Unless you (correctly) redo every single one of these tests for every change you make, you didnt test anything.
Problems can stack together and need multiple of them corrected before the issue goes away - as a fictional example from the past, your motherboard could have a chipset fan that gets covered by longer GPUs and you can test a shorter GPU and say the "GPU was bad" when the problem was something else entirely.

Your CPU's thermals aren't hot enough to be throttling in your 3 minute test, so this part is spoiler tagged to reduce the size of this post. It's still something you need to know, as that cooler is already at its limits with one of the coldest and most efficient modern CPU.

Spoiler: Zen 3 chiplets + direct heatpipes

Gamers nexus have some fantastic contact pressure testing results on the CM212's evo line and cheaper designs with very similar direct contact heatpipes, and it's really bad. You're fortunate you have the 5700x, as its a fantastically power efficient and cold CPU.

This is what your CPU looks like in the socket, delidded. The red part is your CPU cores themselves, and they can end up directly under those giant low-pressure patches very easily thanks to the uneven nature of direct heatpipes.

You need to provide the information that only you know - users manuals and stock photos cant show how the PC is actually set up, especially software.
One user recently had his PC set up in a cardboard box with a mechanical hard drive sitting on the motherboard directly, completely unaware of the danger of that shorting out and killing the PC and potentially him.

As to the hardware in the system, specifically that fan controller and PSU
Arcturus White - AQIRYS
the Arcturus white case comes with a fan controller and ARGB controller, how is it setup? hows it connected? Is the optional ARGB cable to the motherboard connected? If so, to which header?
Is it straight so a SATA cable, or is it inline with other power plugs, adaptors and so on.
Are the fans to seperate ports, or sharing a port with splitter cables, even built in ones?

The fan hub has various modes and connections back to the PC, any of which could be loose, damaged, or connected to the wrong place.


The PSU isn't just white coloured but white rated, which isn't great
Pulsar LS 650W White - AQIRYS

TPU has a review on it, with some potential issues. Only you can show see it's wired up, read up on these issues and verify it's not a problem in your PC.
AQIRYS Pulsar LS White 750 W Review - Value & Conclusion | TechPowerUp

As for some of the provided information, it's incomplete. 3 minutes isn't enough time for a heat related test

Since not all the temperature values are usable here, Its only useful to show how the system behaves when 'cold'. Heat builds up, gaming has a GPU's heat on top, etc.
The CPU reached 70c, which is perfectly fine
The CPU Capped at 78W, which is pretty much bang on for stock settings under AVX workloads (~76W)
What we dont know is if it could sustain this, or for how long if something else is overheating like the motherboard sensors in the bottom right
We can see the VRM's (VRM MOS) at 68C in just a 3 minute test, which definitely is a major red flag for such a low CPU wattage

Opinions on the board vary because some people are reviewing it as a budget board "for its price" while others are testing it out fairly vs competing boards, and it's got inefficient VRMs and poor VRM cooling. You may need to replace the thermal pads or get a fan blowing on them to prevent performance stuttering, especially as the board ages.
Are my vrms running too hot? Using a 3900x on a b550 ds3h : overclocking

GN review it here in a VRM comparison

It's a 5 phase VRM setup

No datasheet exists for the PWM IC, but the next components do

The first components are the 4C10N
MOSFET — Power, Single, N-Channel, SO-8 FL 30 V, 46 A (onsemi.com)
That seems to explain they can handle about 11A sustained at 80C each and just under 17A for 10 seconds.

I have an ITX board with a 6+2 VRM setup with the exact same VRMs and it handles that system fine with a 5800x so the low count is the only issue here, not the quality.
Gigabyte B550I AORUS Pro AX Review - VRM Overview | TechPowerUp

You peaked at 57.9A - about 14.5A per VRM, if they hit 80C under sustained load they wont handle those amps and will result in stutter.
A potential fix here is enabling Eco mode in the BIOS, using custom PBO settings somewhere in-between Eco mode and stock or keeping them cool by replacing/upgrading the thermal pads, and/or getting direct airflow onto them.

Power deviation is only useful at 100% load, and should be 100% in a perfect world.
being 6% off implies an undervolt is happening. This IS sadly normal on cheaper boards, and partly why they can overheat CPUs when better boards don't - because they accidentally feed too much voltage in, forcing the CPU to lower clocks to stay within the power limits.

You did max out on RAM usage, which is odd. Cinebench doesnt use much RAM. What used that RAM?

And again, i'm unsure if anything else was ran in this time frame to explain this - but cinebench is CPU only so why is your GPU so hot?
40W at idle isn't correct for those GPUs, but 240Hz could be the cause of that. TPUs multi monitor review had their reference card at only 8W, but 240Hz displays did not exist then.
67.4c with only 40W power consumption is not a good sign at all when the 1070Ti can only reach 83c before throttling and stock wattage goes upto 190W on a reference card with third party ones potentially going higher.

This is from your 11 minute test with CS:GO minimised in the tray
This has the minimum/max columns cut off to help focus on the problems
66.6c at 46W isnt so bad, on its own

The third column is 'maximum' and what we care about here.
The hotspot barely rises up to 70.5c but the boards maximum power has spiked to show 203W at just 65% max load.

In a longer test, without the game being minimised and giving hardware time to cool down you can guarantee that will overheat. It's only got until 83c on the hotspot before the GPU throttles itself.







So far what it looks like is the GPU is overheating, and the VRM's are pushed to their limits with a 5700x alone at your current BIOS settings - add in C{U and GPU heat together for more than just a few seconds at a time and that absolutely explains the problems here.

 

[sekoitze]

Thank you so much for your time and all the details and all the things you have covered.
Yesterday o sold my motherboard and ordered a new one : asus rog strix b550-a gaming

ROG STRIX B550-A GAMING | Motherboards | ROG Global

rog.asus.com

You are right about the psu i cheaped out when i bought that psu and i know i need a new one and a good brand like seasonic corsair nzxt fsp and so on

On the gpu part yeah it s heating up so fast and alao at idle but one thing to consider it s i have it on 0db fan so the fans are working at 20% maximum capacity when it s getting hotter
I tried to set them from msi afterburner to 50% and then it maintained at 40% idle but if i do that the lag is bigger than normal

i will post photos with the fan hub and how it s connected and also o didn t tried others connections because it should be connected two different ways with sata cable or with those cables from the photos but i didnt even tried to connect them with those cables only this is a thing i will do when the new mb comes.
The cooler i had was an id cooling frostflow x 240 snow lite where the cpu was cooler than it is now but the lag was still there
I can replace it with a 360 aio but for now i want to see if it s from the motherboard vrm and gpu

Also those were temporary tests i will do them for much longer then post screenshots
And also i will do a furmark for gpu and longer tests

For csgo it was an 20 minutes playing on deathmatch then i went up fast in hwinfo and took those screenshots
So you are saying to test it minimised?
Because i didn t do that



I saw that my ram it s always used i don t know by what or why it s always at 30% on idle in the task manager or nzxt cam

As for memory i fot these sticks: https://www.amazon.com/TEAMGROUP-T-Force-3200MHz-PC4-25600-TF4D416G3200HC16CDC01/dp/B07T26FP12

If i missed some parts i didnt answear please let me know.
Or you need to know other informations please let me know

Thank you so much for your time and all the details and all the things you have covered.
Yesterday o sold my motherboard and ordered a new one : asus rog strix b550-a gaming

ROG STRIX B550-A GAMING | Motherboards | ROG Global

rog.asus.com

You are right about the psu i cheaped out when i bought that psu and i know i need a new one and a good brand like seasonic corsair nzxt fsp and so on

On the gpu part yeah it s heating up so fast and alao at idle but one thing to consider it s i have it on 0db fan so the fans are working at 20% maximum capacity when it s getting hotter
I tried to set them from msi afterburner to 50% and then it maintained at 40% idle but if i do that the lag is bigger than normal

i will post photos with the fan hub and how it s connected and also o didn t tried others connections because it should be connected two different ways with sata cable or with those cables from the photos but i didnt even tried to connect them with those cables only this is a thing i will do when the new mb comes.
The cooler i had was an id cooling frostflow x 240 snow lite where the cpu was cooler than it is now but the lag was still there
I can replace it with a 360 aio but for now i want to see if it s from the motherboard vrm and gpu

Also those were temporary tests i will do them for much longer then post screenshots
And also i will do a furmark for gpu and longer tests

For csgo it was an 20 minutes playing on deathmatch then i went up fast in hwinfo and took those screenshots
So you are saying to test it minimised?
Because i didn t do that



I saw that my ram it s always used i don t know by what or why it s always at 30% on idle in the task manager or nzxt cam

As for memory i fot these sticks: https://www.amazon.com/TEAMGROUP-T-Force-3200MHz-PC4-25600-TF4D416G3200HC16CDC01/dp/B07T26FP12

If i missed some parts i didnt answear please let me know.
Or you need to know other

 

[Mussels]

Your lag issue is so severe a lot of these smaller issues seem barely worth testing - the problem is that it could be multiple small issues combining, or it could be something you overlooked or assumed was fine.

Because hardware revisions exist, links to the product aren't 100% complete without that information from their packaging or product themselves - big changes can happen between a 1.0 and a 1.1 device, corsair is the worst with this selling entirely different RAM under the same model name with revisions only visible once they're in your hands.

NZXT cam is not a software worth using for any sort of diagnosis, it's for controlling their hardware only. Same goes for any branded software like iCue, razer, LGhub, etc etc and all are best avoided. Some leave so much crap behind that even uninstalling them doesnt remove them entirely, only a format and clean OS install will.

ARGB controller has a 2 pin header going to the reset button on the case i assume? (It's possibly an issue if its wired to anything else)
Personally, this is my favourite way to control ARGB lighting.

direct sata power, which is good - no amperage limits to worry about. Both fans and ARGB lighting can easily blow out connectors, some high RPM fans destroyed two ports on my corsair commander pro, that work fine on the motherboard.
I'm guessing this is the "to motherboard" option, which is perfectly fine like this

For csgo it was an 20 minutes playing on deathmatch then i went up fast in hwinfo and took those screenshots
So you are saying to test it minimised?
Because i didn t do that

You need to leave HWinfo running the entire time, and see the maximum values afterwards
'current' values are meaningless the second you alt tab or minimise the game since its no longer being rendered its not using any power, and the maximums aren't recorded if you open the program after it's already minimised.
Seeing the spread of minimum temps from a cold system to the maximum of a loaded system after ~30 minutes is how you can tell somethings heating up a ton - 30C at idle to 90C at load tells you a lot about that devices cooling.

Zentimings will show the RAM and it's currently active settings, while CPU-Z (on the SPD tab) can show what it should be running at.
My ram is actually DDR4 3600, but i made a custom 3800 XMP profile so it reads as that

While this shows neither 3600 nor 3800 because i've overclocked it further than that profile, at 3866 (MCLK x2)
On zen3, all those three values *CLK should be identical. If they're not, it'll cause performance issues.

Update the new boards BIOS to the latest, enable XMP and check in zentimings what the SoC voltage is. Default should be around 1.09v but it does vary. Your RAM is easy to run, but it's good for you to know what it's doing.

With the hardware/BIOS out of the way it's softwaret time
You got a new motherboard, so it's time for a new windows install. reusing them never goes well, long term.

In the past, where did you get your windows installer, using what install method?
Microsofts creation tool? Rufus and an ISO from ?

I use Uupdump and Rufus, so I get an ISO with all the updates already installed to save time, and rufus removes the TPM and secureboot requirements
When installing windows multiple times or to multiple machines, the preinstalled updates save a ton of download and install time.


This download link is for the exact version of windows 11 i'm on now
Select language for Windows 11, version 22H2 (22621.2070) amd64 - UUP dump

pick your language, untick the options you dont use to cut steps out of the installer

These are the options i use, which include all updates but then cleanup and compact the file down to save space. Lets most versions fit on a 4GB USB drive, if needed.

It downloads a small zip file, which you need to extract everything into a folder (Windows 'extract all' works fine) and run the windows.cmd file

This will then download all the files and process them, it's fairly fast here but a PC with issues or a slower internet connection could take upto an hour - worse if you've got really bad internet i guess. Download sizes have varied over the years in the 3-5GB range, but since it prevents the updates being downloaded once the OS is up, it saves that time again later.

key options in Rufus are making sure the device is set for UEFI/GPT and not CSM/MBR

When you first begin the process it has tickboxes unique to windows 11

Be sure about what you want with the final two, as i've known people like my brother to make the USB and then immediately get annoyed when using it on someone elses PC and having to change the account name. The first 3 are perfectly safe for everyone to use.

You can install windows and tick 'i dont have a key' and sort that out later, if you need help there. TPU has a policy against piracy being discussed on the forum, but i'd rather help on that topic in a PM than let you get malware from infected windows ISO's off piratebay.



Once you have your clean OS, don't install any crapware.
Until you're sure the problems are sorted, only install:

Nvidia driver from TPU or Nvidias website. Geforce experience is fine, but tell it to not auto-optimise games
AMD chipset driver from TPU or AMD's website
HWinfo
Game launchers (steam, battle.net etc) since they're part of the testing
Games should install these, but I always manually install the latest directX and TPU's big VCredist collection. Those two solve 99% of "missing .dll" errors with games and programs.

Do not install anything like the NZXT software, or anything that goes with peripherals at this point. Let windows update get any and all drivers for now other than GPU and chipset.


With the BIOS sorted and the software sorted, you need to run R23 for that 30 minute period with HWinfo open on the sensors page and fullscreen screenshot the results before it finishes
Then let the PC cool down for 15 minutes, reset HWinfos stats (the clock button) and do the same with CS:GO, the maximum values will be useful there in contrast to the cooled down settings



I'm expecting that GPU to still have a high hotspot temperature, but theres high odds you had some software screwing things up - and something seems weird since your case fan controller made stutter worse. That should be physically impossible unless some trashy software like NZXT cam was lagging out giving the sensor readings for those fans

It's not impossible that your fans are set up strangely and that speeding them up caused something to overheat however, so pictures of the PC setup as a whole would be helpful - the ones in the OP are basically from the same angle and dont show the case fans or the motherboard and its various connectors, and since you've changed boards it's outdated anyway

 

[sekoitze]

Right now i dont't got the mb i have to wait 5-7 days maybe for the order afrer that i will do everything you told my in this reply to do step by step
Also i have lag normally i m just saying if i speed up the fans it adds more lag case fan gpu fan cooler fan doesn t matter it just adds more lag.
But even if i let them running on normal like they work i still got the lag.
I m sayin about them because it s just strange to me that they add more lag because this didn t happened to me before with fans
Ofc with having lag yeah it happened on another pc that was too old.
So the lag i got it s there every time and only if inspeed fans up it adds another layer of lag to put it like this. Im sayin again the problem just not to be misunderstood and say it s only from the fans because it s not.
I will install win11 as you said and do all those steps n tests
Also i will post pictures of pc connections and everything from every angle after i got my mb and reassamble it again.

i forgot to answer your question about my windows.
I had downloaded win10 from the official website ms and buyed an online key from a well known online store here in my country.
And installed it using rufus

 

[Mussels]

Also i have lag normally i m just saying if i speed up the fans it adds more lag case fan gpu fan cooler fan doesn t matter it just adds more lag.

I completely believe you that this is happening - it's just that it really really shouldnt be able to, so it's something we definitely want to find out WHY it's happening.

Maybe the RGB/fan hub is just bad and its sending small power ripples out and causing issues, but normally this stuff either works or causes the PC to shut down, with little in-between.
As long as the CPU and GPU have their fans powered directly, you can remove the SATA power to that hub for testing purposes.

If you had mechanical hard drives, some of them will park their heads when they get knocked to prevent taking permanent damage which can cause stutter if the PC is waiting on them, so a vibrating fan could cause a loose drive to park... an unlikely series of events no one else can possibly guess remotely.

It's just that these are the sort of things that happen once in 10,000 builds so we really end up chasing so many improbable things that the hope for clues to narrow it down is a big time saver for you.

 

[sekoitze]

Yes you are right
As i said i already tried it without the fans plugged and the lag was still there.
Can t wait to get the mb to do the test you told me to
I have a question if i had win10 should i stick with it and test it with win10 or just install 11 as you said