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Regarding Copper Water Blocks and their Nickel plating!!

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I know that bare copper GPU/CPU blocks have been a thing for a long time, then they started nickel plating them!
Is there an advantage to nickel plating!?
To my knowledge if a loop has no other metals but copper there should be no need for nickel plating!
The reason I'm asking this is because I have just started to get into water cooling and would like further expand my knowledge about certain things.
Also a big problem about nickel plated copper blocks with transparent acrylic on top is they start to look awful once the plating erodes away which is an undeniable fact that will happen, it's just a matter of when.
Hopefully this wasn't long :).
Cheers!
 
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Hi,
Liquid metal is okay with nickle plating.
It doesn't discolor either.

I prefer copper because I don't care about either but the big plus is copper won't flake off one day like nickle plating might.
 
The thing is, the "mixed metals" issue is galvanic corrosion. This makes corrosion happen much faster, and nickel only slows it down. However, it is also more resistant to standard corrosion by water, due to forming a passivation layer (like aluminum does in air). The corrosion from copper, on the other hand, tends to flake off and gum up fins and pumps and things.
 
Hi,
Proper fluids and corrosion is a nonissue unless you put aluminum in any copper/ brass/ nickle loop

Copper only gets funky if air is also a issue look at any copper roof after time.
Many great radiators are made of, and are bare copper/ brass if it was a issue they wouldn't be.

Mixed metal is mostly tin and aluminum and stay away from this.
 
Hi,
Proper fluids and corrosion is a nonissue unless you put aluminum in any copper/ brass/ nickle loop

Copper only gets funky if air is also a issue look at any copper roof after time.
Many great radiators are made of, and are bare copper/ brass if it was a issue they wouldn't be.

Mixed metal is mostly tin and aluminum and stay away from this.
Thanks for the reply!
 
The thing is, the "mixed metals" issue is galvanic corrosion. This makes corrosion happen much faster, and nickel only slows it down. However, it is also more resistant to standard corrosion by water, due to forming a passivation layer (like aluminum does in air). The corrosion from copper, on the other hand, tends to flake off and gum up fins and pumps and things.
You must have an electrolyte between the 2 disimilar metals
 
You must have an electrolyte between the 2 disimilar metals
Yes, that is true. However, water is an excellent solvent, and when in contact with metal can form an electrolyte on its own. Distilled or Deionized water can help slow the electrolytic corrosion, but tends to have a slightly higher "solvent" effect.
 
Funny i used a dangerden maze 3 block fir l 16 years.. i used tap water.. no corrosion ever.. lol and i had hard water. I think its a tad overrated
 
In all my years of wcing, nickel only corrodes/flakes if it's a piss poor plating job to begin with. Or, you do a poor job of caring for your loop. If you maintain your loop properly you should never have an issue with it. I've got a box full of old nickel plated and pure copper blocks that look brand new (some of my copper looks like shit, explanation below). Copper is the same. Take care of your loop and it should be fine. But not all copper is equal either. I've got some ancient cpu blocks that are pristine. I never changed the water with them, ran them for years and didn't do anything with the loop. While other blocks I have are much newer but look awful and I changed fluids religiously.
Your best bet is to simply avoid aluminum, period. Use a reputable fluid that has been around for a good long time and maintain your fluid according to the directions. Or simply go with antifreeze and go years in between flush and filling.
 
@GordonFreemanInTheFlesh
Copper looks like pinkish rose the first day. After only 4 days with air, it turns into an orangish brown that seems like it's been inhumed for decades.

Statue of Liberty -made of copper- was half brown half green in 1910.


 
@GordonFreemanInTheFlesh
Copper looks like pinkish rose the first day. After only 4 days with air, it turns into an orangish brown that seems like it's been inhumed for decades.

Statue of Liberty -made of copper- was half brown half green in 1910.



I have a number of copper heatsink here all going green.
 
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In all my years of wcing, nickel only corrodes/flakes if it's a piss poor plating job to begin with.
Yep seems to be hit or miss. I've had full blocks flake off in months and others to years with only minor flaking. Usually it starts at the rubber seals I've noticed.
 
Yep seems to be hit or miss. I've had full blocks flake off in months and others to years with only minor flaking. Usually it starts at the rubber seals I've noticed.
I've seen brand new blocks that flaked off within a few days. Like they were soaked in acid or something. That is a loop mess. And others that did like you describe, a ragged line following the gasket around an entire end of the block. After years of looking perfect, it just starts coming off. No rhyme nor reason.
You have to do your due diligence otherwise it can be a crapshoot.
 
This is why I just buy the copper versions with acetal tops. Its cheaper and In never have to deal with flaking.
 
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