Sound card amplification settings

[aDigitalPhantom]

I wasn't sure if this should be here in General Hardware, or Motherboards & Memory. General Hardware seems like a better choice to me, but please move it if I should have put it somewhere else.

The sound card on my ASUS TUF X299 Mark 1 from what I can tell is supposed to detect what kind of speaker is connected and set the amplification accordingly. Everything I've connected it detects as having 110 Ohms or greater, and it sets it for the highest amount of amplification. I've connected two different pairs of headphones, and the speakers I use. I find the lowest setting works best. Every time I turn on the computer it gets reset to the highest setting. The speakers are Bose Companion 3 Series 1, and are about 12-3 years old now. The audio input sits about 7' away from the PC because of the desk, and has about a 10' cable connecting it. A shorter cable isn't an option right now.

Does anyone know if I can disable this feature?
Assuming it's working correctly is there anything I can to other than making some kind of audio isolation circuit to lower the ohms it's detecting?

 

[Frag_Maniac]

I don't know if it's just an ASUS/Realtek problem, or maybe drivers installed in wrong order or corrupted, but it seems this is common and dates back to at least 2015.

https://rog.asus.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-77195.html

You might want to take note of the last post on that thread, because it may contain a possible solution. I like ASUS MBs, and was considering one of their Prime Z370 models for my next upgrade. It does have a different Realtek chip though. I'll be using Digital Output to my AVR with my setup, so the Amplify Level won't be an issue for me.

 

[aDigitalPhantom]

Well I tried that. So far all it did was break something, and now I'm getting a lot of BSODs. Not sure what went wrong, but I need to fix that now too.

 

[Frag_Maniac]

Well I tried that. So far all it did was break something, and now I'm getting a lot of BSODs. Not sure what went wrong, but I need to fix that now too.

Tried what? I assume you mean uninstall the audio driver, then reinstall the chipset driver, then reinstall the audio driver?

 

[aDigitalPhantom]

Yes. After that I've been getting BSODs.

These are just the 4 it remembers. There have been about 30 other BSODs. If I can't figure this out before too long I'm just going to reinstall windows, but I wan't to avoid re-downloading 200GB over a 12mbps connection if I can avoid it.

102517-8031-01.dmp   10/25/2017 6:56:20 PM       0xc000021a   ffff8006`4f7ee470   ffffffff`c0000428   00000000`00000000   00000205`c05c0000   ntoskrnl.exe   ntoskrnl.exe+16c580   NT Kernel & System   Microsoft® Windows® Operating System   Microsoft Corporation   10.0.15063.674 (WinBuild.160101.0800)   x64   ntoskrnl.exe+16c580                   C:\Windows\Minidump\102517-8031-01.dmp   16   15   15063   772,564   10/25/2017 6:57:00 PM   
102517-8031-01.dmp   10/25/2017 6:56:20 PM       0xc000021a   ffff8006`4f7ee470   ffffffff`c0000428   00000000`00000000   00000205`c05c0000   ntoskrnl.exe   ntoskrnl.exe+16c580   NT Kernel & System   Microsoft® Windows® Operating System   Microsoft Corporation   10.0.15063.674 (WinBuild.160101.0800)   x64   ntoskrnl.exe+16c580                   C:\Windows\Minidump\102517-8031-01.dmp   16   15   15063   772,564   10/25/2017 6:57:00 PM
102517-7468-01.dmp   10/25/2017 7:02:30 PM   CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED   0x000000ef   ffffc30a`9da017c0   00000000`00000000   00000000`00000000   00000000`00000000   ntoskrnl.exe   ntoskrnl.exe+16c580   NT Kernel & System   Microsoft® Windows® Operating System   Microsoft Corporation   10.0.15063.674 (WinBuild.160101.0800)   x64   ntoskrnl.exe+16c580                   C:\Windows\Minidump\102517-7468-01.dmp   16   15   15063   994,964   10/25/2017 7:03:08 PM
102517-7187-01.dmp   10/25/2017 7:22:18 PM   MEMORY_MANAGEMENT   0x0000001a   00000000`00061941   00000000`7ffe03c0   00000000`0000000d   ffffc800`3fa1d440   ntoskrnl.exe   ntoskrnl.exe+16c580   NT Kernel & System   Microsoft® Windows® Operating System   Microsoft Corporation   10.0.15063.674 (WinBuild.160101.0800)   x64   ntoskrnl.exe+16c580                   C:\Windows\Minidump\102517-7187-01.dmp   16   15   15063   908,412   10/25/2017 7:23:46 PM

 

[Frag_Maniac]

Well it IS likely you might have some corrupted OS or other files if the sys can't even handle uninstalling and reinstalling drivers.

 

[aDigitalPhantom]

I got the crashing stopped. I don't know how it makes a difference considering everything was working before I reinstalled the drivers, but changing the boot setting from "Other OS" to "Secure Boot" stopped the crashing. When it was on Other OS I managed to run sfc /scannow once, and got there was file corruption it couldn't fix. Now that it's on secure boot sfc /scannow gave "Windows Resource Protection did not find any integrity violations." I know I'm missing some piece of information, but I don't get it.

 

[OneMoar]

the amplify setting is flakey at best
it causes bsods on my board unless I set the bios front panel out mode to ac97

 

[Frag_Maniac]

the amplify setting is flakey at best
it causes bsods on my board unless I set the bios front panel out mode to ac97

Yeah unfortunately ASUS and Realtek are not stepping up and fixing this it seems. Wherever I see such problems mentioned on forums some users are suggesting just uninstalling the Realtek driver and using the Windows audio driver.

 

[OneMoar]

if you need a AMP get a AMP

 

[aDigitalPhantom]

I don't need an AMP. It's too loud with that where it wants it. I'm trying to make it quieter.

I looked and there is no setting in the bios for ac97 front panel.

PS
These are the speakers I have.
https://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,1633646,00.asp

 

[OneMoar]

:facepalm: turn the volume down

 

[aDigitalPhantom]

Volume is normally at minimum. I can't turn it down anymore. To me when the volume control is at minimum, and you can hear the music or video you're watching just fine the audio signal going to the speakers is too loud.

PS
The Sound Blaster Audigy 2, Sound Blaster Audigy FX, Sound Blaster Omni 5, headphone jack on my Logitech G510s, ASUS P9X79 LE, ASUS M4A87TD/USB3, ASUS P5ND2-SLI, and maybe one more didn't have problems with the speakers being too loud. Only the ASUS TUF X299 Mark 1 has this problem, and only when the amplify setting is on powerful or extreme. Extreme is worse than powerful.

 

[OneMoar]

well what kind of craptasical speakers are you using that take so little power to drive that you can hear them at a volume level of <10%

because the difference between 'performance' and 'extreme' is about 3 points on the volume slider in terms of 'heard volume'

even cheap wall mart speakers have a impedance high enough that you shouldn't be hearing anything below 10%

you are literally not making any sense

 

[aDigitalPhantom]

well what kind of craptasical speakers are you using that take so little power to drive that you can hear them at a volume level of <10%

I posted that already.

These are the speakers I have.
https://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,1633646,00.asp

They are Bose Companion 3 Series 1, but I guess Bose PC Speakers are crap now. Most of the reviews for these are gone because of how old they are, but the maximum volume is about 110-115db. Yes, even now when they're over 10 years old.

even cheap wall mart speakers have a impedance high enough that you shouldn't be hearing anything below 10%

So about $300 back around 2004 is cheap. Good to know.

 

[Ferrum Master]

It detects right resistance. It is higher than 110ohm.

You need a simple resistor pot in series...

Mod the audio cable. Ask a professional.


Haven't used motherboard audio... never will really...

 

[aDigitalPhantom]

You need a simple resistor pot in series...

Mod the audio cable. Ask a professional.

I was thinking of that and a few other things. I didn't want to resort to a hardware change if I didn't have to. I have the parts needed, from old projects. My plan is to make an adapter. Not modify the cable it self.

 

[OneMoar]

seriously those speakers are 12 years old they are destined with a impedance of like 2ohm

get some decent speakers your 'problem' will go away and you will enjoy vastly superior audio quality to boot
great entry to middling options

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002HWRZ2K/?tag=tec06d-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151K2AB0/?tag=tec06d-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002FU5QMK/?tag=tec06d-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXDZ8WB/?tag=tec06d-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016P9HJIA/?tag=tec06d-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000062VUO/?tag=tec06d-20

beyond those you need a real amp and a good set of 2 or threeway speakers

 

[aDigitalPhantom]

I have other speakers, and they don't sound as good. I don't use them much, but I also have Logitech Z506 speakers. I don't like being insulted. I don't care what the reason is.

Like I have said before.

Everything I've connected it detects as having 110 Ohms or greater, and it sets it for the highest amount of amplification. I've connected two different pairs of headphones, and the speakers I use.

Now it's a longer list.
It's not just the Bose speakers. It does the same thing with my Bose QC15 headphones with two different cables, The Logitech Z506 speakers, The old crappy earbuds I got with a HTC Rezound, the earbuds that came with an iPhone 6s+, and more.

It's easier to replace all the eletronic parts in an electric guitar, rewire wire it for a balanced cable, and build an impedance adapter than it is to make useless features like amplify settings for a sound card work. It was easier to make the wiring harness for the engine swap in my C4 from scratch than this.

 

[OneMoar]

it says that because the speaker has a its own amp you have powered set of speakers operating at 3 or 4x there tested input level

it has nothing todo with your problem your problem is that the speakers are 12 years old and designed for when sound cards had a extremely low line level (same goes for your speakers)

I would't use bose in anything that demanded accurate reproduction of audio tiny drivers are tiny.

they where a hot topic 10 years ago when wave-guiding was still a buzzword,every set of speakers does that these days I would put those 30 dollar logic-techs up against those 12 year old bose's any day of the week

if you wanna get serious about the audio then a dedicated dac or htomega card with a AMP and good set of studio 3 ways is where the real difference becomes audible

 

[aDigitalPhantom]

it says that because the speaker has a its own amp

The Headphones, and earbuds don't have an AMP. Yet says the same thing.

it has nothing todo with your problem your problem is that the speakers are 12 years old and designed for when sound cards had a extremely low line level

So sound cards less than 5 years old, and less than one year old have extremely low line level?

I would't use bose in anything that demanded accurate reproduction of audio tiny drivers are tiny they where a hot topic 10 years ago when wave-guiding was still a buzzword,every set of speakers does that these days

You don't like Bose, and that's fine. You don't need to be rude over that, or anything else.

 

[OneMoar]

not being rude being real
the head phones are noise cancling same logic applies its throwing off the impedance detection

and accually the amp setting is a misnomer its a limiter not a booster remember always gain DOWN never gain UP

so the extreme setting bypasses the limiter and lets the a/b do what it does best

and yes the problem is that boards audio out is vastly superior to the majority of the junk that was intended to drive those speakers/headphones they where made to be driven from a phone or a low power pc sound card

you seem to have made your mind up do what you want hack the speakers all the hell blow the board up by cranking the impedance thats firmly under NMP

./Goes back to re coning his 3 ways

 

[aDigitalPhantom]

the head phones are noise cancling same logic applies its throwing off the impedance detection

Apple earbuds are noise cancelling now? Beats earbuds are noise cancelling now? I doubt that.

 

[OneMoar]

anything thats between the jack and the voice coil will throw the calculation off
all of those either have active or passive circuitry in them
its also possible you have a noisy ground

either way the point about the amp setting being a limiter and not a gain-control still holds

 

[craigo]

Hi Phantom,
Just a thought, Is the hub with the 3.5 jacks on the 2.1s also a volume control?
If so when you initially plug the speakers in would this not need to be set to full volume so that the soundcard was not compensating for line attenuation?
sorry if this solution is outlined in the link. I am only skimming the thread...
So.. Plug in with the volume right up so the line is not a higher resistance then turn the volume down to desired level..