Which on?? - Black Ice® Nemesis® 360GTS or Watercool HEATKILLER RAD 360-s BLACK

[HBSound]

Greetings.

I am putting together a smaller case and need some help with the cooling. I am considering going with a dual 120 x 360 x 30mm RAD in the top/bottom of the Jonsplus i100 Pro.

According to Black Ice, their RAD is 1200 watts of capacity. Watercool does not offer this kind of information. My thought is to place Phanteck 30mm fans on the radiator on the top and the bottom.

To make this work, I will have to do a little cutting in the lower portion of this case. Also, to keep it clean, etc. I am considering having some of the work professionally done too. The middle section needs to come up about one inch, so the rad in the bottom has the right amount of clearance.

I am trying to future-proof myself so that if I change out the CPU/motherboard or GPU, now I do not have to change any of the cooling.

So Right now I am planning for a CPU - 400 watts, and GPU 600 watts, so I am preparing for 1000 watts of cooling. From a technical standpoint, this setup can handle about 2400 worth of cooling. I am considering only doing a single RAD at the top of the case, but I do not want to hit my thermal limitations with the updates, and I like the thermal capacity to have a little overkill and room too.

From your experience, which of these two brands would you go with? For me, water-cool is making its presence in the world of water-cooling and offering some nice-looking products.

 

[Noci]

400W CPU & 600W GPU continuously or just as peak power? That is one hell of a fiercely system, for example, my rig pulls 540 Watts from the wall socket at full load (CPU & GPU @ 99%).

I think with two times a 360x30mm rad you are good to go to keep the temps well under control. Just go with the rads that suits you best on aesthetics and/or budget.
It is important to look where the connection points are (for easy routing of your tubes) and if you have chosen your fans already look at the static pressure they produce. Low static pressure, you go for a rad with low FPI, high static pressure you can choose a rad with high FPI.

As this build will be in a rather compact case, I would advise to go for a low FPI rad so you still have sufficient airflow throug the case for non water-cooled heat producing components with the minimum at produced noise level. With high FPI, despite the fact of a little bit more heat dissipation, your fans have to push harder to get air through, so more noise.

Remember, the rads will only cool down your liquid a few degrees above ambient temps, no matter what thermal capacity rating they have from the manufacterer and how much air you blast through them.
It's all about finding the right balance between cooling capacity and noise levels.

 

[maxfly]

Black Ice gts 360s paired with Phanteks t30s is about as good as you'll get from any thin rad set up. Altho trying to dissipate 1000w of heat with a pair of 360x30mm rads is a really tough ask. If you're looking at 1000w of continuous output, I would check into an external setup like a 3x360/420 Mora rig. I don't think 30mm rads can handle that kind of continuous heat load. If you're only looking at 1000w spikes you should be gtg with a pair of BI GTS.

 

[HBSound]

400W CPU & 600W GPU continuously or just as peak power? That is one hell of a fiercely system, for example, my rig pulls 540 Watts from the wall socket at full load (CPU & GPU @ 99%).

I think with two times a 360x30mm rad you are good to go to keep the temps well under control. Just go with the rads that suits you best on aesthetics and/or budget.
It is important to look where the connection points are (for easy routing of your tubes) and if you have chosen your fans already look at the static pressure they produce. Low static pressure, you go for a rad with low FPI, high static pressure you can choose a rad with high FPI.

As this build will be in a rather compact case, I would advise to go for a low FPI rad so you still have sufficient airflow throug the case for non water-cooled heat producing components with the minimum at produced noise level. With high FPI, despite the fact of a little bit more heat dissipation, your fans have to push harder to get air through, so more noise.

Remember, the rads will only cool down your liquid a few degrees above ambient temps, no matter what thermal capacity rating they have from the manufacterer and how much air you blast through them.
It's all about finding the right balance between cooling capacity and noise levels.

The 400 + 600 is peak power. Right now, the Intel I9 is peaking at 250-300 watts, and the Nividial 4090 F# is packing at 600 watts. So, for me, in this format, it is the worst off and extreme. Does anyone sit on the gas all day long? Nope. But, I do fall in the category of safe and no sorry.

Could I insert a single 120 x 360 x 30 across the top - Yes, and it MIGHT be just enough. Right now I am using the PNY A series and will pair it with the Intel I9-14000K. Mathematically that is about 700 watts at peak power. Could the single rad across the top work? Yes. My only hindrance, is as soon as I upgrade the GPU in a few years, no I am at my threshold for the system, and then I will need to insert another RAD. So in my mind, why not insert the extra RAD now and be safe vs sorry?

RAD Info

Black Ice® Nemesis® 360GTS - 16 FPI 25 Micron Copper Fins
Watercool HEATKILLER RAD 360-s BLACK ~ 14–15 FPI serpentine and louvered type fins
CORSAIR Hydro X Series XR5 360 Radiator -
I have about 40mm max thickness at this location.

Fan Info

Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM chromax.black. - Static pressure 2,34 mm H₂O
Phantek T30-120 - Static Pressure 0.13 in H2O
Be Quiet SILENT WINGS PRO 4 120mm PWM - Airpressure 5.31. I cant find a static pressure number.

Black Ice gts 360s paired with Phanteks t30s is about as good as you'll get from any thin rad set up. Altho trying to dissipate 1000w of heat with a pair of 360x30mm rads is a really tough ask. If you're looking at 1000w of continuous output, I would check into an external setup like a 3x360/420 Mora rig. I don't think 30mm rads can handle that kind of continuous heat load. If you're only looking at 1000w spikes you should be gtg with a pair of BI GTS.

Thank you so much! If this were a situation where there were consistently 1000W loads, I would do something completely different. However, in this situation, these are more like spikes rather than keeping the pedal to the metal.

 

[Belfaborac]

Pretty sure you can forget about dissipating 1200W with a 360x30mm radiator outside of lab conditions with no consideration for noise level. Then again you can also forget about actually needing to dissipate a continuous 1200W or 1000W. And to echo maxfly above, you're not going to get a significantly better setup than the HWLabs GTS and a set of good fans.

I use a HWLabs SR2 Extreme and XFlow myself, both 420mm, with an AMD 7900X and a 4090. Based on my own experience I'd say that 2 x 360mm will do the job just fine. I've seen max. 82C on the CPU (Watercool Heatkiller IV Pro) and 63C on the GPU (Alphacool Aurora) during stress testing and way less during actual use. Typically temps on the low 60s and 50s respectively during demanding games. Personally I use BeQuiet SilentWings 4 (non-Pro) fans, which I'm extremely happy with from a noise/performance perspective. Whisper-quiet at max power level was the main point of the build and that's what I've got.

 

[HBSound]

Pretty sure you can forget about dissipating 1200W with a 360x30mm radiator outside of lab conditions with no consideration for noise level. Then again you can also forget about actually needing to dissipate a continuous 1200W or 1000W. And to echo maxfly above, you're not going to get a significantly better setup than the HWLabs GTS and a set of good fans.

I use a HWLabs SR2 Extreme and XFlow myself, both 420mm, with an AMD 7900X and a 4090. Based on my own experience I'd say that 2 x 360mm will do the job just fine. I've seen max. 82C on the CPU (Watercool Heatkiller IV Pro) and 63C on the GPU (Alphacool Aurora) during stress testing and way less during actual use. Typically temps on the low 60s and 50s respectively during demanding games. Personally I use BeQuiet SilentWings 4 (non-Pro) fans, which I'm extremely happy with from a noise/performance perspective. Whisper-quiet at max power level was the main point of the build and that's what I've got.

Thank you

What I did discover last night. The Hardware Labs slim format RAD comes in two formats. The 360 GTS and 360 GTS U Flow. If I am thinking about this correctly, the U Flow version is the older format of the current 360 GTS? According to the specs, the 360 GTS is designed for sub-800 RPM fans, and the U Flow version was designed for 1400 RPM fan use.

I need to find the regular 360 GTX version of the RAD in black. https://hardwarelabs.com/hwlmain/nemesis/gts/360gts/

Performance PCs sell the RAD on Amazon, but this RAD is not available via their website. https://www.amazon.com/Black-Ice-Nemesis-360GTS-Radiator/dp/B01636K0VS

Thanks

 

[Belfaborac]

If I am thinking about this correctly, the U Flow version is the older format of the current 360 GTS? According to the specs, the 360 GTS is designed for sub-800 RPM fans, and the U Flow version was designed for 1400 RPM fan use.

I can't see a "U-Flow" model, only regular and X-Flow. Is the latter the one you're thinking of?

Anyway, I'm thinking that if you want a little more cooling performance overhead in the build, you might want to check if you have the space to make one of the radiators a ~55mm version, such as the Nemesis GTX or Black Ice GTX. The nearly double thickness will significantly improve performance (though it will not double it vs a 30mm).

 

[HBSound]

I can't see a "U-Flow" model, only regular and X-Flow. Is the latter the one you're thinking of?

Anyway, I'm thinking that if you want a little more cooling performance overhead in the build, you might want to check if you have the space to make one of the radiators a ~55mm version, such as the Nemesis GTX or Black Ice GTX. The nearly double thickness will significantly improve performance (though it will not double it vs a 30mm).

Here you go. U Flow (https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...ofile-radiator-black-carbon-n360gts-f2pb.html)

I did see an X Flow, too.

Also, I took all the measurements I could to see if I could place the thick RAD on the top of the CASE, but that will not work. I only have 1.5" of clearance for a RAD in the top of the case. Going from 1.5" to 2.16" (55 mm), when then have to reingeneer the back side of the case to accept the RAD,

 

[Belfaborac]

Ah. I was looking at the manufacturer's site, which doesn't use the "U-Flow" moniker. Hence the GTS and GTS "U-Flow" must be one and the same.

No need to worry about the lack of space for a thicker radiator I would think. I only mentioned it because you seemed to want to maximise cooling potential. 2 x 360mm ought to be plenty. Basically a 280mm (which almost equals a 360mm in area) will handle any top-end CPU running full tilt (if only just), while a 360mm is marginal for a top-end GPU. However, the sum is greater than the parts and with two 360s you should be perfectly fine, especially as both processors will hardly ever run all-out for at the same time or for more than short bursts.

Everything is dependent on decent air flow of course, but the case appears to have that handled. I assume you'll be directing the flow in from the bottom and out from the top, or vice versa? It appears the case walls are solid on both sides, so you'll need to pick one or the other.

 

[HBSound]

Ah. I was looking at the manufacturer's site, which doesn't use the "U-Flow" moniker. Hence the GTS and GTS "U-Flow" must be one and the same.

No need to worry about the lack of space for a thicker radiator I would think. I only mentioned it because you seemed to want to maximise cooling potential. 2 x 360mm ought to be plenty. Basically a 280mm (which almost equals a 360mm in area) will handle any top-end CPU running full tilt (if only just), while a 360mm is marginal for a top-end GPU. However, the sum is greater than the parts and with two 360s you should be perfectly fine, especially as both processors will hardly ever run all-out for at the same time or for more than short bursts.

Everything is dependent on decent air flow of course, but the case appears to have that handled. I assume you'll be directing the flow in from the bottom and out from the top, or vice versa? It appears the case walls are solid on both sides, so you'll need to pick one or the other.

Thank you.

Right now, the plan is to take the air from the bottom to the top. I did consider, taking having the top RAD take the air up and out, and the bottom RAD take the air down and out. Pulling the air in from the back of the case. I watched a few reviews, where this option keeps the fresh air in the case. Verse, taking the air from the bottom of the case to the top. Now is taking on the TEMP of the RAD, and pushing it up and over the components. Since this is a smaller case, I will do a test both ways and see which one actually works best.

Also, when it comes to price, the U FLow is a little cheaper. I will stick with the regular 360 GTS I see on Amazon.

Now I need to get the PSU figured out.

Thank you to each and every one!

 

[Waldorf]

maybe think about external for some stuff.

i wanted to have an inaudible sys in 2006, decided to get a plastic container and install rad/fans/pump/res in it,
6ft hoses going to the case, (industrial) quick connect so case can be worked on/transported separate.
easily allows for 9x120 rad(s) (just need some stands).

 

[HBSound]

maybe think about external for some stuff.

i wanted to have an inaudible sys in 2006, decided to get a plastic container and install rad/fans/pump/res in it,
6ft hoses going to the case, (industrial) quick connect so case can be worked on/transported separate.
easily allows for 9x120 rad(s) (just need some stands).

I agree with you. I do like the external situations of cooling, especially if I can place it in another room etc.

I do think about it a lot. My only reservation - what do you do if you need to move your computer or take it somewhere to use. Now how do I protect the system, when I am away from home?

I will be able to move this system around in a way, but to take some external coolers too.

 

[Barbarous]

having used both i recommend you pick up whichever you think looks better & is a better value at the given time. both perform as good as a 30mm rad possibly can. your fan choice is ultimately what is going to matter most (T30's is probably the optimal choice)

2x360 will likely be fine given you can feed them the airflow they need. although i would look at running some type of QDF's so that you can disconnect out to a larger 480x60m rad when your home/stationary

 

[HBSound]

having used both i recommend you pick up whichever you think looks better & is a better value at the given time. both perform as good as a 30mm rad possibly can. your fan choice is ultimately what is going to matter most (T30's is probably the optimal choice)

2x360 will likely be fine given you can feed them the airflow they need. although i would look at running some type of QDF's so that you can disconnect out to a larger 480x60m rad when your home/stationary

You are right on point. I will insert the EK-Loop PCI Bracket Pass-Through. The main question I have right now - how do I insert the pass-through and keep the loop going, so that once this is inserted, the loop is not terminated? Can I insert an internal value or something? I have no clue. Right now, the first thing that crosses my mind, is finding a way to connect this pass-through with a quick disconnect. How can I do this without bulking up the rest of the system with hoses running all over the place?

 

[Bobaganoosh]

If you're looking at a MO-RA3 setup, you can mount a pump/reservoir combo to that directly, then put quick disconnect fittings on the computer and radiator setup. That way at home you can have longer tubing installed to remotely operate the radiator, but if moving it or taking it somewhere, you can leave the lengthy tubing behind, but bring the computer, radiator, and some short tubing with you.

I highly recommend the QD3 quick disconnect fittings from Koolance. I use them at work and at home and they're fantastic.

You can also put an internal pump/res in the case and an external one on the big radiator and then put QD fittings on the pass-through. That way you can hook it up to the external system, but you can have an internal pump anytime you just want to rely on the internal rads. With the pumps in series in the same loop it'd be easy to just use a little bypass tube on the back of the system whenever needed. Also, if you're running a big rad and some length of tubes, you probably want two pumps in the loop anyway (series) to keep the head pressure up.

Edit: I have one of these external rads, BTW. There are some pictures in the link in my signature. I did not opt for an internal pump, but I do have two pumps with internal and external radiators. It is overkill and not something anybody needs, but I wanted it lol

 

[HBSound]

If you're looking at a MO-RA3 setup, you can mount a pump/reservoir combo to that directly, then put quick disconnect fittings on the computer and radiator setup. That way at home you can have longer tubing installed to remotely operate the radiator, but if moving it or taking it somewhere, you can leave the lengthy tubing behind, but bring the computer, radiator, and some short tubing with you.

I highly recommend the QD3 quick disconnect fittings from Koolance. I use them at work and at home and they're fantastic.

You can also put an internal pump/res in the case and an external one on the big radiator and then put QD fittings on the pass-through. That way you can hook it up to the external system, but you can have an internal pump anytime you just want to rely on the internal rads. With the pumps in series in the same loop it'd be easy to just use a little bypass tube on the back of the system whenever needed. Also, if you're running a big rad and some length of tubes, you probably want two pumps in the loop anyway (series) to keep the head pressure up.

Edit: I have one of these external rads, BTW. There are some pictures in the link in my signature. I did not opt for an internal pump, but I do have two pumps with internal and external radiators. It is overkill and not something anybody needs, but I wanted it lol

Thank you. I saw your computer in the case mod gallery.

I use the QD3 quick disconnects in my current system. I love them as well, never had an issue with them. I wish I could have got the ones I needed in black. Hopefully, this time around I can get some of the black instead of the silver.

I like the external pumps and etc. I really do. I just do not have the space for it.

 

[Waldorf]

all my parts besides block were in the external container..

bin

 

[Belfaborac]

Right now, the plan is to take the air from the bottom to the top. I did consider, taking having the top RAD take the air up and out, and the bottom RAD take the air down and out. Pulling the air in from the back of the case. I watched a few reviews, where this option keeps the fresh air in the case. Verse, taking the air from the bottom of the case to the top. Now is taking on the TEMP of the RAD, and pushing it up and over the components. Since this is a smaller case, I will do a test both ways and see which one actually works best.

Testing both scenarios is very wise I think. My concern would be that having both top and bottom exhausting air will a) give the case a serious under-pressure, pulling dust in and depositing it everywhere, and b) make the fans/radiators less efficient because both sides are solid and the case cannot supply sufficient air to let the fans work as well as they should.

You'll find many people claiming that having one radiator as intake and one as exhaust will seriously compromise performance because the exhaust will use hot air from the intake. However, when I tested exhaust/exhaust vs intake/exhaust myself the difference was essentially well within margin of error. Less than 1C. Then again I have an additional 3 fans pulling in ambient air, so that may well be the cause of my own non-result. Also, air flow in cases is notoriously difficult to predict and generally doesn't conform to what might seem logical and "common sense".

Basically though, in my head the preferred option would be to use the top as intake and the bottom as exhaust, ensuring a good flow of air and relative equilibrium inside. In fact, if it were me I'd likely opt to keep the top fans running slightly faster than the bottom ones, in order to create a slight overpressure and further keep the dust out. Also, dust gathers on flat surfaces and so avoiding using the bottom as an intake is generally beneficial whether the case is located on the floor or a desk. Unless, of course, you're a serious cleaning fiend.

 

[HBSound]

Testing both scenarios is very wise I think. My concern would be that having both top and bottom exhausting air will a) give the case a serious under-pressure, pulling dust in and depositing it everywhere, and b) make the fans/radiators less efficient because both sides are solid and the case cannot supply sufficient air to let the fans work as well as they should.

You'll find many people claiming that having one radiator as intake and one as exhaust will seriously compromise performance because the exhaust will use hot air from the intake. However, when I tested exhaust/exhaust vs intake/exhaust myself the difference was essentially well within margin of error. Less than 1C. Then again I have an additional 3 fans pulling in ambient air, so that may well be the cause of my own non-result. Also, air flow in cases is notoriously difficult to predict and generally doesn't conform to what might seem logical and "common sense".

Basically though, in my head the preferred option would be to use the top as intake and the bottom as exhaust, ensuring a good flow of air and relative equilibrium inside. In fact, if it were me I'd likely opt to keep the top fans running slightly faster than the bottom ones, in order to create a slight overpressure and further keep the dust out. Also, dust gathers on flat surfaces and so avoiding using the bottom as an intake is generally beneficial whether the case is located on the floor or a desk. Unless, of course, you're a serious cleaning fiend.

Now just thinking about it all - I agree 100% that I will only build the system based on its design. Air coming through the bottom and straight out the top. And I am willing to try coming straight from the top, into the case. And I will not mix up the ins and the out.

I am excited about this build.

This build will take a little time, since I want to do it right, and I am doing all the research I can before I buy anything. The last time I built my PC, I went into the store and just started throwing stuff in the basket. Now the system turned out to be first class. The only thying I did not agree with later on, was the PC case I was sold, and I WISH I would have knon about water cooling in the beginning.

Than you so much!

 

[Belfaborac]

You've very welcome and best of luck with the build!

 

[Waldorf]

@HBSound
in general, makes no sense to go upside down.
all other components still emit a little heat, which tries to rise,
so having airflow already going "the same way" will be better.

if you setup one rad blowing inside, it might not affect the other rads perf much,,
but it will definitely hurt you case temps, thus pwm/vrm/chipset/drives and especially gpu will breath "pre-heated" air.
lower temps will make stuff work longer maybe a tine bit more stable, especially in the summer, and will let the gpu boost higher.
at least using the rtx2000 series as example, your dropping one boost tier per 6C temp rise,
so even if i look at just 20C colder (intake/case) air, means three steps higher boost clocks on the gpu..

unless you plan on having vacuum noise level fan rpm, using top and bottom as exhaust is fine.
having used a case with side mounted rad (2x120 and the top 3x140 and rear 140 exhausting as well), was no problem feeding with just two intake fans (140).

over pressure is useless for dust "prevention", unless your in a clean room and no dust enters the case.
short of hepa grade filter/mesh, dust WILL get inside (with airflow), nothing will prevent that.
running a decent sized air filter for the room is not only a good idea for your "health", but will also greatly reduce dust in room/ pc etc,
and i dropped from a few weeks before i could see dust (inside; close to hwy) to couple of month before i had to clean.

 

[Belfaborac]

in general, makes no sense to go upside down.
all other components still emit a little heat, which tries to rise,
so having airflow already going "the same way" will be better.

The difference will at the very best be utterly negligible and almost certainly impossible to measure, except perhaps with laboratory equipment. In a completely still environment heated air will move up, but any forced air movement will completely negate this. In a a closed environment like a computer case with fans at the top and bottom there's exactly no chance that this will make any discernible difference.

if you setup one rad blowing inside, it might not affect the other rads perf much,,
but it will definitely hurt you case temps, thus pwm/vrm/chipset/drives and especially gpu will breath "pre-heated" air.

This kind of seemingly logical thinking is exactly why things must be tested. Once you do you'll pretty quickly find that apparent logic and common sense doesn't actually apply very much, if indeed at all. Thermodynamics in a complex closed area with several fans thrown into the mix is way, way too complex for one to be able to apply everyday common sense and come up with a viable answer.

What is correct is that the air in the case will indeed end up being slightly warmer with one intake and one exhaust, but this will have exactly zero impact on the stability, performance and longevity of any motherboard that isn't already borderline for breaking down. Given that today's motherboards are generally vastly over-engineered it's not even worth thinking about.

 

[Noci]

The difference will at the very best be utterly negligible and almost certainly impossible to measure, except perhaps with laboratory equipment. In a completely still environment heated air will move up, but any forced air movement will completely negate this. In a a closed environment like a computer case with fans at the top and bottom there's exactly no chance that this will make any discernible difference.



This kind of seemingly logical thinking is exactly why things must be tested. Once you do you'll pretty quickly find that apparent logic and common sense doesn't actually apply very much, if indeed at all. Thermodynamics in a complex closed area with several fans thrown into the mix is way, way too complex for one to be able to apply everyday common sense and come up with a viable answer.

What is correct is that the air in the case will indeed end up being slightly warmer with one intake and one exhaust, but this will have exactly zero impact on the stability, performance and longevity of any motherboard that isn't already borderline for breaking down. Given that today's motherboards are generally vastly over-engineered it's not even worth thinking about.

I fully support the substantiation of Belfaborac.

For example the delta-T of cooling liquid between the in- & outlet of a 360x120x30 rad is merely a few tenths of degrees Celcius (under normal conditions). So theoretical, yes you blow in 'warmed' air but practically this temperature raise is negligible. Of course this air needs to be exhausted again before it has time to substantially heat up by other heat radiating components, like VRM's, chipset, SSD's, RAM and so on (I assumed from the initial post, the GPU will also be liquid cooled, as he was speaking of 400 + 600 Watts cooling capacity with two rads).

Therefore it does not matter if the forced airflow goes up or down, as long as there is a continuous flow (preferably without turbulence) to exhaust the absorbed heat. A much bigger influence on the Delta-T is the ambient temperature, so I understand the suggestions for external cooling capacity using a bracket with quick connectors, that makes plenty of sense. Remember, like thermodynamics, fluid-dynamics can also be quite complex. Connecting external components to a custom loop changes the static & dynamic resistance for the cooling liquid, which mostly results in the need for a stronger pump so generally more noise in order to make use of the added heat exchange capacity.

In the end it is up to the OP to find the before mentioned sweetspot between cooling capacity and noise levels which live up to his standard and/or likings despite what other peeps say.

 

[HBSound]

I fully support the substantiation of Belfaborac.

For example the delta-T of cooling liquid between the in- & outlet of a 360x120x30 rad is merely a few tenths of degrees Celcius (under normal conditions). So theoretical, yes you blow in 'warmed' air but practically this temperature raise is negligible. Of course this air needs to be exhausted again before it has time to substantially heat up by other heat radiating components, like VRM's, chipset, SSD's, RAM and so on (I assumed from the initial post, the GPU will also be liquid cooled, as he was speaking of 400 + 600 Watts cooling capacity with two rads).

Therefore it does not matter if the forced airflow goes up or down, as long as there is a continuous flow (preferably without turbulence) to exhaust the absorbed heat. A much bigger influence on the Delta-T is the ambient temperature, so I understand the suggestions for external cooling capacity using a bracket with quick connectors, that makes plenty of sense. Remember, like thermodynamics, fluid-dynamics can also be quite complex. Connecting external components to a custom loop changes the static & dynamic resistance for the cooling liquid, which mostly results in the need for a stronger pump so generally more noise in order to make use of the added heat exchange capacity.

In the end it is up to the OP to find the before mentioned sweetspot between cooling capacity and noise levels which live up to his standard and/or likings despite what other peeps say.

Yes, the system will be completely liquified (CPU and GPU), with both rads working.

I thank everyone for the information shared.

Now, I need to do some research on the CPU block.

 

[Belfaborac]

CPU blocks are pretty much all created equal today, as long as you don't get buy pluck from the bargain basement or get adventurous and buy one from Aliexpress with an unpronounceable name. If you opt for a known quantity and a relatively recent model you're assured to be within 2C of the very best performance. Basically you can just look at the price and the design and go with the best fit; it's not really going to matter in terms of the performance you see. Basically it seems we have pretty much reached the peak of what is possible with current water block designs, which are all pretty much identical internally.

In terms of price/performance I'd stay away from EK, as their prices have risen sharply over the years without a corresponding rise in performance. Today they're basically aimed at those with fat wallets and/or a taste for bling (RGB, chrome, even gold plating).

Alphacool makes good blocks at reasonable prices and looks I personally don't care for.
AquaComputer makes good blocks, some reasonable, some horrendously priced.
Watercool(.de) make the HeatKiller IV Pro, which is my favourite. Decently priced and the performance is still at the very top after several years.