Yellow EDP Other and other problems in dell g5 5590

[Drakitos]

Hi, so as the title say I have the yellow edp other allert in the ring section that is always up and I dont know what is the problem behinde it.
I first found TS because I was searching for a way to lower the overheating issue with my laptop, but before trying to unlock the undervolting I would like to resolve the other problems.

My laptop had a big drop in his prestation in this last year, the most evident one is the gaming performance, I used to play Elden Ring but now I cant for the costant stuttering and throttling of my Rtx 2060.
I did upgrade my ram from 16 to 32Gb and replaced my ssd to have a clean installation of windows too.
When doing this I found that my battery was swollen and replaced it with a new one (dont know from when it was like that)
Last thing I did was a clean installation of the nvidia driver with DDU after formatting the pc again .

The to major problems that I would like to have help with are:
- GPU costant clock drop from 1300-1600 Mhz to 300Mhz ( used 3d mark to test )
- the graphic display on wich I usally draw have every 3-10 sec a imput lag and dont get the line i draw ( i think this can be related to the problem on the gpu)


Other important thing I noticed:
- when I remove the charger from the wall the limits window show a red edp other on everything.
- strangely when i was doing a 3dmark benchmark the graphic card was doing fine for the first time in a while ( without any clock drop) but now is back to the usual drop

I dont have a great knowledge of computer so I think that is better to have someone ask me some specific question instead of writing a long useless post

I would like to understand if it is a hardware problem or something that i can resolve,
Thanks!

PS.
I attached some of the settings and datalog from 10min of Elden Ring and Time spy(this one was done when the gpu was doing fine)

 

[unclewebb]

when I remove the charger from the wall the limits window show a red edp other on everything.

Your computer is designed to protect the battery when switching to battery power. It looks like Dell is lowering one of the current limits. This is reported as EDP throttling. Almost all laptops use batteries that are not big enough to fully power an Intel CPU and a Nvidia GPU. They have to throttle when running on battery power to protect the battery. Most gaming laptops need to be plugged in when playing games.

The Elden log file looks great. No power limit throttling. The only throttling is a little bit of thermal throttling when the CPU reaches 100°C. That is normal.

The Time Spy log file does not look so good. There is some PL2 throttling at 45W and then that changes to PL1 throttling at only 35W. Dell uses an embedded controller (EC) to randomly reduce the turbo power limits. This reduces performance. ThrottleStop can only control the MSR and MMIO power limits. ThrottleStop cannot be used to change the EC power limits. Lots of Dell laptops started using EC controlled throttling when laptops with Intel 8th Gen mobile CPUs were released. There is no fix for the throttling problem that your Dell laptop has. Dell says the throttling is by design.

Power consumption of the CPU is usually reduced when an active Nvidia GPU is detected. The goal is to manage overall power consumption and heat. You should check the Nvidia GPU box in the ThrottleStop Options window to add Nvidia MHz and temperature data to the log file. Perhaps during your Elden log file the Nvidia GPU was not active so this allowed the CPU to run at full power and full speed. Perhaps it was just a bug where the Dell embedded control software simply thought that the Nvidia GPU was not active.

My laptop had a big drop in his prestation in this last year, the most evident one is the gaming performance

There might have been a BIOS update or perhaps a sensor has shorted out so it is feeding the wrong information to the Dell embedded controller. I do not know why Dell laptops do what they do. All I know is that ThrottleStop cannot be used to fix your laptop.

unlock the undervolting

That would be a good idea. Reducing the voltage can help reduce power consumption and heat. It will probably not fix any of the other problems that your Dell laptop has.

Edit - A constant yellow EDP OTHER box under the RING column of Limit Reasons happens to a lot of CPUs. This is not important.

 

[Drakitos]

Your computer is designed to protect the battery when switching to battery power. It looks like Dell is lowering one of the current limits. This is reported as EDP throttling. Almost all laptops use batteries that are not big enough to fully power an Intel CPU and a Nvidia GPU. They have to throttle when running on battery power to protect the battery. Most gaming laptops need to be plugged in when playing games.

The Elden log file looks great. No power limit throttling. The only throttling is a little bit of thermal throttling when the CPU reaches 100°C. That is normal.

The Time Spy log file does not look so good. There is some PL2 throttling at 45W and then that changes to PL1 throttling at only 35W. Dell uses an embedded controller (EC) to randomly reduce the turbo power limits. This reduces performance. ThrottleStop can only control the MSR and MMIO power limits. ThrottleStop cannot be used to change the EC power limits. Lots of Dell laptops started using EC controlled throttling when laptops with Intel 8th Gen mobile CPUs were released. There is no fix for the throttling problem that your Dell laptop has. Dell says the throttling is by design.

Power consumption of the CPU is usually reduced when an active Nvidia GPU is detected. The goal is to manage overall power consumption and heat. You should check the Nvidia GPU box in the ThrottleStop Options window to add Nvidia MHz and temperature data to the log file. Perhaps during your Elden log file the Nvidia GPU was not active so this allowed the CPU to run at full power and full speed. Perhaps it was just a bug where the Dell embedded control software simply thought that the Nvidia GPU was not active.


There might have been a BIOS update or perhaps a sensor has shorted out so it is feeding the wrong information to the Dell embedded controller. I do not know why Dell laptops do what they do. All I know is that ThrottleStop cannot be used to fix your laptop.


That would be a good idea. Reducing the voltage can help reduce power consumption and heat. It will probably not fix any of the other problems that your Dell laptop has.

Edit - A constant yellow EDP OTHER box under the RING column of Limit Reasons happens to a lot of CPUs. This is not important.

Thanks a lot for the fast reply!

For the Time Spy log I forgot to mention that it was me that put the pl2 to45 and pl1 to 35, I thought that the spike to 80 watt were strange and tried to change the limit, but the limit window showed a costant pl2 on cpu so i returned it to what you can see from the screen.
I sent the log because the graphic card was doing fine and thought that maybe you could understand something from the log.


In Elden Ring it was droopping to like 3-8 fps constantly, if TS didnt report any throttle then maybe the problem isnt there?

Btw I use a usb-c hub to connect other device that is possible that the lag come from that?( like my charger cant power everything?)
I already bought a docking station to see if that make some difference since it's powered by his own charger


I will do some test with the nvidia gpu enabled and attach the log

 

[unclewebb]

if TS didnt report any throttle then maybe the problem isnt there?

Maybe the problem is GPU throttling. Including Nvidia GPU data in the log might help show what is going on.

I forgot to mention that it was me that put the pl2 to45 and pl1 to 35

That makes sense. The power limits are working correctly. Sometimes reducing maximum performance can help improve overall performance. It can be difficult to figure out what the exact throttling trigger is so trying to avoid that is best.

my battery was swollen and replaced it with a new one

Was the replacement battery a genuine Dell OEM battery or a not so genuine made in China knock off? Some mystery batteries can trigger throttling problems.

 

[Drakitos]

So here are the two log with the GPU enabled, time spy wasnt dropping in fps but elden like always was constantly dropping to 4-10 fps

Was the replacement battery a genuine Dell OEM battery or a not so genuine made in China knock off? Some mystery batteries can trigger throttling problems.

It wasnt Dell OEM but the shop where i brought the pc to repair assured me that they would replace it with a good battery( probably from a site from where they usually buy).
In the Uefi interface everything is ok and the diagnostic tool provided by dell tell me that there isnt any problem with the battery, but more important then this is that the throttling was going before the battery replacement.

Maybe the problem is GPU throttling. Including Nvidia GPU data in the log might help show what is going on.


That makes sense. The power limits are working correctly. Sometimes reducing maximum performance can help improve overall performance. It can be difficult to figure out what the exact throttling trigger is so trying to avoid that is best.


Was the replacement battery a genuine Dell OEM battery or a not so genuine made in China knock off? Some mystery batteries can trigger throttling problems.

Btw I wanted to understand better the undervolage, from what I read undervolting should render the CPU a bit more unstable since more voltage means more stability( intel put higher V on their CPU to be sure that is almost impossible to have the pc crash from that)
When I lower the voltage i lower the heat that it create but what this have to do with the watt that my cpu requires?

Does the undervolting of the GPU have the same effect?

Did I understood the undervolting well?
Thanks for everything!

 

[Deleted member 57642]

First things first - you'll have to disable Virtualization if you want to Under-volt the CPU (check the link from Unclewebb's signature: https://beebom.com/how-disable-virtualization-based-security-vbs-windows-11/ ). Anyway, besides undervolting the CPU i also recommend undervolting the GPU - which can be done with MSI Afterburner: https://www.msi.com/Landing/afterburner/graphics-cards

There's tons of guides on both applications - which offer a step by step guide. It's enough to write ThrottleStop undervolting or MSI Afterburner Undervolting on YouTube and you can even add your own CPU/GPU model.

As a sure bet (or at least highest chances of a sure undervolt for i7 9750H) - i recommend:

CPU Cache (this setting is more sensible in terms of stability - you're sure to get a Blue Screen even with -20 mV higher than it can carry) at an offset of -120 mV (some can handle slightly higher value - after all it's a CPU lottery)

CPU Core (there's this unofficial rule - where the core should be set around 2x the CPU Cache value - but you can also set it same as the CPU Core if you like / personally, i chose a middle ground - since it's not that sensible to higher values or impactful on stability) to -200 mV

IccMax can be set to 160 Amps - which is above Intel's recommendations - as depicted in 8th & 9th Gen CPUs datasheet: https://www.intel.com/content/www/u...ocessor-families-datasheet-volume-1-of-2.html - i mean, at maximum voltage (1.52v) 160 Amps translates to around 243.2 Watts - and even at the lowest voltage translates to 90 Watts which is way above what you can achieve with Turbo Boost (using around 65W on PL2 - as in - a short boost). Thus, intel recommends 128 Amps for 6 Cores CPUs and 140 Amps for 8 Cores CPUs - from 8th/9th gen line of CPUs with a TDP of 45W. Then again, even the recommended values of 128 Amps which translates to 76.8 watts - should be enough (technically). That being said - the most impactful power limitations are either set internally by the OEMs (you "should" be able to see that in BIOS at Turbo Boost power management - but companies like Dell, Acer, Hp and Co. - have the habit of hiding this settings with no way to access them / your logs don't such issue/limitation).

And since you're on a laptop - which clearly struggles due to a poor cooling design - i also recommend lowering the Turbo Boost Limits to a ratio of at least 36 (3600 Mhz). Same goes for the GPU - your RTX 2060 might breath easier at a value of max 1600 Mhz. And believe it or not (you'll notice in practice anyway) - this actually helps with performance since it's constant performance. I mean, instead of a short peak of 90 FPS followed by 65 FPS - not to mention the unplayable drops while throttled, it's far better for a game to run at around 70 constant FPS. As can be seen in above logs - your CPU does its thing even at 100 *C - while your GPU is acting like a roller-coaster - even tho it reached max 70*C.

Another thing i would recommend: try NVIDIA Studio Driver instead of GRD and do tweak your game settings from nVidia Control Panel, for example:

Also recommend setting Power Management Mode to Prefer Consistent Performance - which is not as aggressive as Prefer Maximum Performance (forcing the GPU frequencies to maximum).

 

[Drakitos]

Thanks a lot for your answer, it is indeed really helpful!
I just wanted to ask some clarification

First things first - you'll have to disable Virtualization if you want to Under-volt the CPU (check the link from Unclewebb's signature: https://beebom.com/how-disable-virtualization-based-security-vbs-windows-11/ ). Anyway, besides undervolting the CPU i also recommend undervolting the GPU - which can be done with MSI Afterburner: https://www.msi.com/Landing/afterburner/graphics-cards

My laptop is a Dell g5 5590 and I have the undervolting blocked, if I disable the virtualization it would be possible to tweak it or I need to change some settings in my bios to unlock it.
I saw that intel did this as a strategy to prevent plundervolting attack but I didnt understand if it was from the 10th or mine is included too
I would follow this guide https://brendangreenley.com/undervo...s-to-improve-thermals-battery-life-and-speed/

CPU Cache (this setting is more sensible in terms of stability - you're sure to get a Blue Screen even with -20 mV higher than it can carry) at an offset of -120 mV (some can handle slightly higher value - after all it's a CPU lottery)

CPU Core (there's this unofficial rule - where the core should be set around 2x the CPU Cache value - but you can also set it same as the CPU Core if you like / personally, i chose a middle ground - since it's not that sensible to higher values or impactful on stability) to -200 mV

IccMax can be set to 160 Amps - which is above Intel's recommendations - as depicted in 8th & 9th Gen CPUs datasheet: https://www.intel.com/content/www/u...ocessor-families-datasheet-volume-1-of-2.html - i mean, at maximum voltage (1.52v) 160 Amps translates to around 243.2 Watts - and even at the lowest voltage translates to 90 Watts which is way above what you can achieve with Turbo Boost (using around 65W on PL2 - as in - a short boost). Thus, intel recommends 128 Amps for 6 Cores CPUs and 140 Amps for 8 Cores CPUs - from 8th/9th gen line of CPUs with a TDP of 45W. Then again, even the recommended values of 128 Amps which translates to 76.8 watts - should be enough (technically). That being said - the most impactful power limitations are either set internally by the OEMs (you "should" be able to see that in BIOS at Turbo Boost power management - but companies like Dell, Acer, Hp and Co. - have the habit of hiding this settings with no way to access them / your logs don't such issue/limitation).

I'll try to follow your guide line and see where are the sweat apot for my CPU

And since you're on a laptop - which clearly struggles due to a poor cooling design - i also recommend lowering the Turbo Boost Limits to a ratio of at least 36 (3600 Mhz). Same goes for the GPU - your RTX 2060 might breath easier at a value of max 1600 Mhz. And believe it or not (you'll notice in practice anyway) - this actually helps with performance since it's constant performance. I mean, instead of a short peak of 90 FPS followed by 65 FPS - not to mention the unplayable drops while throttled, it's far better for a game to run at around 70 constant FPS. As can be seen in above logs - your CPU does its thing even at 100 *C - while your GPU is acting like a roller-coaster - even tho it reached max 70*C.

Do you think that more or less all the problems could come from the overheating issue?
I already tried to contact the Dell, and after conducting some test which I alredy had done they told me that the problem is in the motherboard probably and I need to replace it.
My laptop is mìno longer uder warranty so I dont know if I should believe them or not ( money are always good), I dont think they tried too hard to solve the problem.

 

[Deleted member 57642]

My laptop is a Dell g5 5590 and I have the undervolting blocked, if I disable the virtualization it would be possible to tweak it or I need to change some settings in my bios to unlock it.

If virtualization is enabled - it's blocked for everyone using Windows 11. Blocked by Hypervisor - basically, you can't use any software from Windows other than OEM - to access/modify Voltage settings - not even the official apps made by Intel - like XTU - which has same access as ThrottleStop.

If disabling Virtualization still doesn't work - you're probably right - and it's indeed locked at a BIOS level. Then the only option left - is to modify that BIOS setting with 3rd party tools. This became a workaround for locked BIOS options - and here's a step by step guide on how that can be done:

But i'm not really sure - that still works with the latest BIOS Update for your specific model - which was released just last month: https://www.dell.com/support/home/e...wt64a&productcode=g-series-15-5590-laptop&lwp Funny thing is (or quite ironic - if you will) - one of the best things about Dell is also the worst thing about Dell, as in: They still offer security updates for older models (most OEMs - stopped bothering when a product is removed from production), yet... at the same time - those security updates - can cripple the performance and limit its tuning options - since the security issue in question targets exactly those features (as it's the case with Pundervolt). Doesn't hurt to try - especially since you also have a BIOS Recovery Image File as fail-safe option (on same download page). Start with this - before you proceed.

Do you think that more or less all the problems could come from the overheating issue?
I already tried to contact the Dell, and after conducting some test which I alredy had done they told me that the problem is in the motherboard probably and I need to replace it.
My laptop is mìno longer uder warranty so I dont know if I should believe them or not ( money are always good), I dont think they tried too hard to solve the problem.

Throttling is triggered - both by Temperatures and Power usage - tho for most part it goes hand in hand (they're trying to keep the System cooler - which translates to higher stability and longer life "at the expense of performance"). Dell's stuff is trained to promote upgrades or services - which involve extra costs, but - at the same time - they're also trained to prioritize safety and stability - again - over performance or any practice deemed as risky. That being said, their support (even paid support) - is usually quite basic on a service level (they'll reinstall Windows and replace components or the whole system). Which unfortunately - it's true for all companies: they do not specialize in "advance support" or in-depth tweaking. It's supposedly counterproductive - at a business level.

PS. Dell replacing "working" components (even replacing the whole system - if under warranty) - is nothing new (quite the opposite - unfortunately).

 

[Drakitos]

Throttling is triggered - both by Temperatures and Power usage - tho for most part it goes hand in hand (they're trying to keep the System cooler - which translates to higher stability and longer life "at the expense of performance"). Dell's stuff is trained to promote upgrades or services - which involve extra costs, but - at the same time - they're also trained to prioritize safety and stability - again - over performance or any practice deemed as risky. That being said, their support (even paid support) - is usually quite basic on a service level (they'll reinstall Windows and replace components or the whole system). Which unfortunately - it's true for all companies: they do not specialize in "advance support" or in-depth tweaking. It's supposedly counterproductive - at a business level.

Hi, I succesfully unlocked the undervolting saction thatnks to your link!

So I started a little below what you adviced me and stopped at -250,0 mV for CPU core and -145,0 for the cache( is it normal that I can go so low without any problem?), I think I can go even lower but I stopped for now to ask some question.

Should I undervolt intel gpu, system agent and iGPU too? Or I dont get anything from doing that ?


Using intel XTU I saw that when I plug all my device on my laptop I have a costant power throttling, what can I do to prevent it ( I thought about trying a docking station that is self powered and dont take anything from the already low power of my laptop)

My major problem for now is the fact that my graphic display fail to catch my pen imput sometimes and in 1h I have to redo 60% of my work.
Is it coming from the fact that my laptop cant power up all my device or could be a problem of the motherboard as dell said?

I'm really greatfull for your help!

 

[unclewebb]

I stopped for now to ask some question.

How did you test your undervolt to make sure it is stable?

my graphic display fail

If that never used to happen then your undervolt is probably not 100% stable. For a 9750H, I would not set the cache to an offset of more than -120 mV and I would leave the core at -175 mV. If you run the TS Bench 960M test with the cache at -145 mV, it will probably crash or report errors.

Using intel XTU

Are you using ThrottleStop to adjust your voltage settings or are you using Intel XTU? Do not use both programs together at the same time. If you are using ThrottleStop, open the Limit Reasons window and check there for any throttling.

If you are having some power limit throttling problems then post a screenshot of the TPL window so I can see your settings. Show Limit Reasons and the main ThrottleStop screen together while your computer is power limit throttling.

Should I undervolt intel gpu, system agent and iGPU too?

Leave those other voltages alone for now. Figure out your other problems first. Most people only undervolt the core and the cache. Those two are the important ones.

 

[Deleted member 57642]

So I started a little below what you adviced me and stopped at -250,0 mV for CPU core and -145,0 for the cache( is it normal that I can go so low without any problem?), I think I can go even lower but I stopped for now to ask some question.

It's a CPU lottery - same as it goes with the opposite of Undervoling (Overclocking). Not all CPUs are the same. Well, even -145 mV seems a bit high for i7-9750H (most can't run stable at values higher than -125 mV for the CPU Cache). You'll have to run a stress tool like Cinebench or even some gaming - and see if you get any crashes. You could also start with ThrottleStop's own bench/stress tool: TS Bench (below FIVR) - just switch the size to at least 960M.

CPU Core & CPU Cache - is usually enough. To undervolt Intel GPU you also have to undevolt iGPU Unslice (using same value) - or else it doesn't work, but i find this really unnecessary - since it's rather weak GPU handling the applications set to Power Saving. Point being - for heavy taks (be it gaming otherwise) - you'll be using the nVidia GPU - which i do recommend undevolting as well - using: https://www.msi.com/Landing/afterburner and here's a step by step guide:

Don't touch System Agent.

My major problem for now is the fact that my graphic display fail to catch my pen imput sometimes and in 1h I have to redo 60% of my work.
Is it coming from the fact that my laptop cant power up all my device or could be a problem of the motherboard as dell said?

Is your editing software - set to Nvidia Card (usually labeled as high perfromance) or the integrated iGPU UHD 630. If the latter - set it to Nvidia. You can do that from Nvidia's Control Panel (which is what i recommend - for extra tweaking) or from System > Display > Graphics.

If undervolted and running at lower values - power shouldn't be an issue. Do you get any BOSD?! You could also test the latency using: https://www.resplendence.com/latencymon So far, i don't see any reason to replace the Mobo (you should have more serious issues - which actually point out to a failed or failing hadrware component). So far only the battery had serious issues. They guys who replaced it - should have known/motice if something else is broken.

 

[Drakitos]

How did you test your undervolt to make sure it is stable?

Sorry, I should have explained everything I did.

So to test the undervolt I run TSbench multiple times on 960M and I didnt have any error, furthermore I did a idle test leaving the laptop for 10 minutes without doing anything and with all the programm closed.

I had a score of 112,645, I think the CPU was throttling at 3.6-3.8Ghz (need to do another test with the laptop cooled down

Are you using ThrottleStop to adjust your voltage settings or are you using Intel XTU? Do not use both programs together at the same time. If you are using ThrottleStop, open the Limit Reasons window and check there for any throttling.

If you are having some power limit throttling problems then post a screenshot of the TPL window so I can see your settings. Show Limit Reasons and the main ThrottleStop screen together while your computer is power limit throttling.

For intel XTU, I used it beacuse someone told me to run a cpu stress test and see what kind of throttle I get, when I first started the programm I didnt have the need to start the stress test because the power throttle was already up (when I have all my device plugged in i get 80% of power throttle)
So from my PV it is a bit strange because TS warn me of EDP other in ring and instead intel XTU warn me about power throttling ( I keep attention to not use both of them at the same time)

If that never used to happen then your undervolt is probably not 100% stable. For a 9750H, I would not set the cache to an offset of more than -120 mV and I would leave the core at -175 mV. If you run the TS Bench 960M test with the cache at -145 mV, it will probably crash or report errors.

No, actually the problem with the display tablet was why I started to look for some way to improove the performance of my laptop

I'll attach a gif where I hope you can understand my problem, the error happen in the 4th,7th and 10th circle and in other too but these are the first

It's a CPU lottery - same as it goes with the opposite of Undervoling (Overclocking). Not all CPUs are the same. Well, even -145 mV seems a bit high for i7-9750H (most can't run stable at values higher than -125 mV for the CPU Cache). You'll have to run a stress tool like Cinebench or even some gaming - and see if you get any crashes. You could also start with ThrottleStop's own bench/stress tool: TS Bench (below FIVR) - just switch the size to at least 960M.

I did run some TS bench at 960M and scored 112,645 in the best one, but the pc was already warm and was thermal throttling at 3.6-3.8Ghz so I need to do it again.

CPU Core & CPU Cache - is usually enough. To undervolt Intel GPU you also have to undevolt iGPU Unslice (using same value) - or else it doesn't work, but i find this really unnecessary - since it's rather weak GPU handling the applications set to Power Saving. Point being - for heavy taks (be it gaming otherwise) - you'll be using the nVidia GPU - which i do recommend undevolting as well - using: https://www.msi.com/Landing/afterburner and here's a step by step guide:

Yeah I wanted to undervolt the CPU first since I needed to unlock it, i'll try to see what they say in the video that you linked.
For the display problem I already put my rtx as the GPU to use when I'm drawing but it didnt get any better, I'm almost sure it is a problem with the port because when i have only my display tablet connected the problem is almost gone

If undervolted and running at lower values - power shouldn't be an issue. Do you get any BOSD?! You could also test the latency using: https://www.resplendence.com/latencymon

I'll try this latency test but no I dont get any BOSD

I'll attach a gif with a fast show of my problem, you can see the error already in the 4th, 7th and 10th circle

 

[Deleted member 57642]

I'm almost sure it is a problem with the port because when i have only my display tablet connected the problem is almost gone

Wonder if the port in question - doesn't go into Power Saving mode. Thus, sometimes - it helps to disable Power Saving on the used ports. Press Window + X and selecting Device Manager. See if you can find the Port in question - right click - > Proprieties > Power Management > Uncheck "Allow the Computer to Turn off this device to save power"

Can also help with latency if you assign a CPU core to that given port - to set an affinity - but this is a bit more complicated (a bit riskier or really annoying - till you learn how to do it write). There should be multiple guides on the internet - also on YouTube, such as:

or

(maybe there's better guides - it's all the same after you know how it's done)

 

[Drakitos]

Wonder if the port in question - doesn't go into Power Saving mode. Thus, sometimes - it helps to disable Power Saving on the used ports. Press Window + X and selecting Device Manager. See if you can find the Port in question - right click - > Proprieties > Power Management > Uncheck "Allow the Computer to Turn off this device to save power"

I'll try doing this but in the device manager I have a strange thing happening, the window is constantly going white as if the pc detect a new device, I'll attach a gif

Can also help with latency if you assign a CPU core to that given port - to set an affinity - but this is a bit more complicated (a bit riskier or really annoying - till you learn how to do it write). There should be multiple guides on the internet - also on YouTube, such as:

Ah never heard about this core affinity I'll do some research.
What imprrovment should i get doing this thing?

I tried going in controller USB is it normal that I have so many thing here?
In my laptop I have plugged:

• usb c hub: here i have an USB and hdmi port used for display tablet
• cooler base
• mouse
• my monitor (ultragear) take another usb and hadmi port

 

[Deleted member 57642]

I'll try doing this but in the device manager I have a strange thing happening, the window is constantly going white as if the pc detect a new device, I'll attach a gif

That usually happens when adding a new device (the Plug and Play Manager). For example when you connect a camera to the USB port - it flashes while installing/setting it (if the drivers are already present). Can also happen with an unknown device attached to a port, a corrupted system file or a malfunctioning port - while having a connected device to it (can also be internal port - like the ones where you have the laptop's Keyboard a or the laptop's camera).

Another way to put it (simply put) - your system keeps finding a new device - but gets discontented from it shortly after - only to reconnect again (which can happen if a driver or a system file is corrupted - or if a port is broken "or not fully connected/plugged in"). Maybe when they removed the battery - they touched and "slightly" unplugged some device (if interrupted can do that too). And that's basically how troubleshooting is done - you test all variables till you find the culprit.

If it's simply a corrupted system file, that's fixable sometimes with the following command. First press Win Key + X open Terminal (as Admin) and run the following - 1 by 1 just wait each to finish scanning and doing its thing:

Dism.exe /Online /Cleanup-image /Scanhealth

Dism.exe /Online /Cleanup-Image /CheckHealth

Dism.exe /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth

sfc /scannow

What imprrovment should i get doing this thing?

improves latency. Since by default Windows sets the affinity randomly to all cores.

 

[Drakitos]

Another way to put it (simply put) - your system keeps finding a new device - but gets discontented from it shortly after - only to reconnect again (which can happen if a driver or a system file is corrupted - or if a port is broken "or not fully connected/plugged in"). Maybe when they removed the battery - they touched and "slightly" unplugged some device (if interrupted can do that too). And that's basically how troubleshooting is done - you test all variables till you find the culprit.

Could the problem be my integrated webcam?
1 year ago after a windows update( I think), it started to not work
Since I dont use it too much I just didnt bother to try too hard to repair it

sfc /scannow

btw only sfc /scannow found some error but the problem is stil going

 

[Deleted member 57642]

Could the problem be my integrated webcam?
1 year ago after a windows update( I think), it started to not work
Since I dont use it too much I just didnt bother to try too hard to repair it

btw only sfc /scannow found some error but the problem is stil going

Yes, it can (be the device that keeps register - as connected/disconnected - probably some issue with the connector). Here's a guide how to physically reconnect it or simply remove it:

Just kidding! I mean, the guide is valid - but it's your first time doing this - you could brake something (more often than not - the display bezels/front cover is prone to brake - if not handled correctly).

Instead, try to Disable it from Device Manager. Same as above Press Window + X and selecting Device Manager. Then Right Click the Click the Camera > Proprieties > Driver > Disable Device.

Btw, noticing all this issues - did you reinstall/reset Windows as well?! Cause honestly, i keep recommending the the terminal commands (DISM and sfc /scannow) out of habit - but in practice - despite of finding issues and solving them - that rarely actually helped with the issue at hand (maybe 1 in 50). Tho, resenting Windows - did help with software related issues/corruptions. Also helps to reinstall Drivers - but resetting Windows can cover multiple issues - especially if the system is misbehaving in more ways than one. It's quite easy to do too - this days. Just go to search bar and type "Reset PC" - click on Reset PC and you can even chose the option to Keep your files. Sometimes a fresh start helps. Won't affect the BIOS changes (just Windows) - so you can reconfigure ThrottleStop same as now. You'll have to reinstall all the apps as well ofc, starting with Intel and Nvidia's latest iGPU + GPU drivers. If Webcam is still acting out - disable it.

 

[Drakitos]

Just kidding! I mean, the guide is valid - but it's your first time doing this - you could brake something (more often than not - the display bezels/front cover is prone to brake - if not handled correctly).

Instead, try to Disable it from Device Manager. Same as above Press Window + X and selecting Device Manager. Then Right Click the Click the Camera > Proprieties > Driver > Disable Device.

ahaha thanks , I tried this but it didnt work still getting this constant update, like it find always a new device

Btw, noticing all this issues - did you reinstall/reset Windows as well?! Cause honestly, i keep recommending the the terminal commands (DISM and sfc /scannow) out of habit - but in practice - despite of finding issues and solving them - that rarely actually helped with the issue at hand (maybe 1 in 50). Tho, resenting Windows - did help with software related issues/corruptions. Also helps to reinstall Drivers - but resetting Windows can cover multiple issues - especially if the system is misbehaving in more ways than one. It's quite easy to do too - this days. Just go to search bar and type "Reset PC" - click on Reset PC and you can even chose the option to Keep your files. Sometimes a fresh start helps. Won't affect the BIOS changes (just Windows) - so you can reconfigure ThrottleStop same as now. You'll have to reinstall all the apps as well ofc, starting with Intel and Nvidia's latest iGPU + GPU drivers. If Webcam is still acting out - disable it.

Actually I did multiple installation of windows so I dont think the problem is there
I tried frome the easiest like reset pc to clean installation from usb but it didnt help...

I'm really lost, I think it is or a driver problem that make my usb ports work bad or some instability
I more for the latter one, when I have just my graphic display connected it works fine but when I start to connect multiple device it start to do that strange reset on device management and have those instability with the imput

It doesnt depend on which port it gets worse as I put more devices

 

[Deleted member 57642]

If you're experiencing that issue on a fresh install - it's more than likely - not a driver/software issue. Tho, still doesn't look like am issue - were you'd be compelled to replace the whole motherboard. As mentioned above - could be something as small as some connector not being plugged in correctly/fully. Even if it's a damaged port or some other device - fixing that is far cheaper than replacing the most expensive component (that's basically the mobo + CPU + GPU + Chipset).

Also, you could use this app: https://www.uwe-sieber.de/usbtreeview_e.html to see which are the fastest ports (pretty straightforward). Don't think that would solve your issue but still useful (good to know).

 

[Drakitos]

Also, you could use this app: https://www.uwe-sieber.de/usbtreeview_e.html to see which are the fastest ports (pretty straightforward). Don't think that would solve your issue but still useful (good to know).

Thanks to this I'm sure that the disconetting device is the webcam!
Tried to disable it but the problem is still there, I treid to uninstall it too but it didnt work.

There is some way to just turn off the power from it?
I thougth I could disconnect the webcame manually... than I watched the video you linked and understood why you were joking ahaha...
I think I could try following the video but if there is a more easy way I would prefer it

If you're experiencing that issue on a fresh install - it's more than likely - not a driver/software issue. Tho, still doesn't look like am issue - were you'd be compelled to replace the whole motherboard. As mentioned above - could be something as small as some connector not being plugged in correctly/fully. Even if it's a damaged port or some other device - fixing that is far cheaper than replacing the most expensive component (that's basically the mobo + CPU + GPU + Chipset).

Today I went to the shop that replaced the battery and asked how much would they take to check if there is any eletrical problem with the motherboard and they told me it would take about 100€ to just check,
dell want 290€ to replace the whole thing... I hope i can fix everything disconnetting the webcam

 

[Deleted member 57642]

Thanks to this I'm sure that the disconetting device is the webcam!
Tried to disable it but the problem is still there, I treid to uninstall it too but it didnt work.

There is some way to just turn off the power from it?
I thougth I could disconnect the webcame manually... than I watched the video you linked and understood why you were joking ahaha...
I think I could try following the video but if there is a more easy way I would prefer it

Today I went to the shop that replaced the battery and asked how much would they take to check if there is any eletrical problem with the motherboard and they told me it would take about 100€ to just check,
dell want 290€ to replace the whole thing... I hope i can fix everything disconnetting the webcam

Some laptops (MSI in particular) - can disable it with a Fn Key combination, unfortunately - Dell doesn't seem to have anything like that (pr at least i didn't find anything in you're system's manual - neither in BIOS nor in general options). If you Uninstall it - Windows will installing it back (even if Device Installation settings is set to No - since it's probably using a basic/default Windows Driver). There's also the option to disable the Camera from Group Policy Editor: Win Key + R and copy the fowling command gpedit.msc

Computer Configuration > Administrative Templates > Windows Components > Camera > Alow Use of Camera (set it to Disabled).

Tho, this might have the same effect as if Disabled from Device Manager (still, doesn't hurt to try). There's also the possibility - that even once it's physically unplugged (thus, the camera won't be able to cause any issues) - the device manager is still misbehaving - in case there's another malfunctioning device (or simply - not properly connected). But if the camera's causing that issue (as the only culprit) - even if they replaced the whole mobo - your system could still misbehave - unless they actually check and plug in everything properly. But then you could end-up replacing a fully functional mobo.

I'm well aware of Dell's immoral way of training its stuff to deal with clients (one of those brands - who will gladly change/replace fully functional components). As for the shop where you replaced the battery - you should have told them - that your Device Manager keeps refreshing - since you brought it back from them, as if something's not properly connected. Asking about diagnosing an electrical issue - implies checking every transistor - stating with the PSU for incorrect values. Tho again, if a component is simply not plugged correctly - they won't find any issue. And pretty sure they won't check the camera or its connector - cause that's not deemed as a cause for electrical issue. Unless you want to troubleshot the camera itself (then they will check to se why it's not working).

That being said, if you take it to a service - try to detail the issue as detailed a possible. Even point out - that it works in general, but Device Manager keeps flashing for whatever reason (even add that - this started happening after you replaced the battery - if that was the case).

Reading all the posts from this topic - all over again, there's also the possibility - you'd still have lag issue even if the laptop is fully functional. I say this while taking the following details you mentioned into account:

I tried going in controller USB is it normal that I have so many thing here?
In my laptop I have plugged:

• usb c hub: here i have an USB and hdmi port used for display tablet
• cooler base
• mouse
• my monitor (ultragear) take another usb and hadmi port

Ideally, using the HDMI with an external monitor - only the cable is troublesome at times (for being less than adequate for the most sensible port) - which can imply some connection issues - but still a rare case scenario. On the other hand, sometimes it's enough to also connect an audio source to HDMI - and the video-audio is out of sync or you start to have connection issues while streaming a YouTube video. This are examples i kept/keep encountering once in awhile - on tech forums. In those cases - the solution is as simple as switching to USB or the dedicated Audio ports for Audio - and using only the monitor through HDMI (and the lag/disconnections disappear).

Now, your laptop does seem to have some issues - like the one related to Device Manager (where indeed - it could be just the camera). And once everything is solved - we can get back to solving the throttling issue - thus, demanding games will work as they used to. But... i'm not really sure that will solve the lag issues - involving your drawing tablet (if it works fine - till you plug in more devices). Just my 2 cents/pennies.

 

[Drakitos]

Ideally, using the HDMI with an external monitor - only the cable is troublesome at times (for being less than adequate for the most sensible port) - which can imply some connection issues - but still a rare case scenario. On the other hand, sometimes it's enough to also connect an audio source to HDMI - and the video-audio is out of sync or you start to have connection issues while streaming a YouTube video. This are examples i kept/keep encountering once in awhile - on tech forums. In those cases - the solution is as simple as switching to USB or the dedicated Audio ports for Audio - and using only the monitor through HDMI (and the lag/disconnections disappear).

I actually happen to have some problem with tha OnScreen apllication of LG could it be that the problem is connected to the webcam and the usb problems?

I'm well aware of Dell's immoral way of training its stuff to deal with clients (one of those brands - who will gladly change/replace fully functional components). As for the shop where you replaced the battery - you should have told them - that your Device Manager keeps refreshing - since you brought it back from them, as if something's not properly connected. Asking about diagnosing an electrical issue - implies checking every transistor - stating with the PSU for incorrect values. Tho again, if a component is simply not plugged correctly - they won't find any issue. And pretty sure they won't check the camera or its connector - cause that's not deemed as a cause for electrical issue. Unless you want to troubleshot the camera itself (then they will check to se why it's not working).

Yeah it was my bad for the elettrical control, i didnt know that it would imply that type of control but the problem was that the stuff misunderstood the fact that I was just looking for some info about the result of the tests that they did the other time with me complaining about something... so they didnt get to explaine my whole problem as you know.
Even if they apologized to me and I had the time to explaine almost all my ports problem the biggest obstacle is that they from my PV a bit too expensive, I dont know if it is normal but the other time when they changed the battery they asked me 60€ to change the termal paste.

Is it a legitimate price?
I just though that my syy167 was like 8€ on amazon so it was too much

I'm well aware of Dell's immoral way of training its stuff to deal with clients (one of those brands - who will gladly change/replace fully functional components). As for the shop where you replaced the battery - you should have told them - that your Device Manager keeps refreshing - since you brought it back from them, as if something's not properly connected. Asking about diagnosing an electrical issue - implies checking every transistor - stating with the PSU for incorrect values. Tho again, if a component is simply not plugged correctly - they won't find any issue. And pretty sure they won't check the camera or its connector - cause that's not deemed as a cause for electrical issue. Unless you want to troubleshot the camera itself (then they will check to se why it's not working).

For the MOBO i'll just follow your advice for now, just need to decide what to do about the webcam and ports

 

[Deleted member 57642]

I actually happen to have some problem with tha OnScreen apllication of LG could it be that the problem is connected to the webcam and the usb problems?

Don't think so (doesn't

Even if they apologized to me and I had the time to explaine almost all my ports problem the biggest obstacle is that they from my PV a bit too expensive, I dont know if it is normal but the other time when they changed the battery they asked me 60€ to change the termal paste.

Is it a legitimate price?
I just though that my syy167 was like 8€ on amazon so it was too much

Price always differ from a shop to a service or another. Depends where you live, big cites tend to have higher competition (which also implies - competitive prices while trying to offer better services). Cleaning the fans and re-pasting both the CPU and GPU therm paste - could cost around that price. You'll have to check the local services (with high rating - like 5 starts - but also lots of clients or else the rating could be fake). That being said - some have prices like this:

PC Repair Squad | Laptop and Computer Repair Services UK

Some offer free diagnostic. no fix no fee and 3 months diagnostic:

Computer Repair, Data Recovery, IT Support London – Computer Being

The place where i worked - used to have a similar policy (in the beginning - cause once you build a reputation you can see your head of piled up work - so the free diagnostic stops being a thing - but still no fix no fee ofc). Tho, i don't like - that they have no prices listed and might charge more than others. - so you'll have to ask while checking such places.

Btw, it's worth buying a docking station - for powering up the cooler and such. This days are rather cheap - and quite necessary if using a laptop as a PC - especially if you're not a casual user (more demanding).

Amazon.co.uk : Docking Stations