Arctic Liquid Freezer III 240 Black

[Acijn Rhark]

[Sammelthread] - Arctic Liquid Freezer III Serie 2024

Naja meine LF 2 ist fast nicht zu hören, sehe also keinen Grund zum Upgraden.

www.hardwareluxx.de

https://getfancontrol.com/

PS : Praise to SignalRGB..... everything can be adjusted after the update.

First of all.
I'm not interested in OC.
I now have really good settings for low noise at idle.
Pump 1119 rpm
VRM 411 rpm.
Radi 3x 120s 490 rpm.
Temp with 13600K then below 40 degrees.

Gaming
Pump at 30%
Radi approx. 1000 rpm
VRM approx. 700 rpm.
Graka approx. 850 rpm (3 fans).
Temp with 13600K / depending on game 50 degrees - 68 degrees.
Now also quite pleasant...no unusually disturbing noises.

 

[remekra]

A user would look at any monitoring software and see ~4300rpm at 100%? Something is not right.

​

remekra, what are you reading when you set the pump at 100% and other various speeds?

This is with pump set to 60%.

 

[FrostWolf]

Great review.

my biggest concern would be if the tubing is as stiff as the AFII. I returned the 2 due to the hoses and couplings making mounting impossible in my case; the BeQuiet Pure Loop 2 FX and Galahad II LCD had much better fit (280mm for all three).

I’m glad to see the new block has right angle fittings, but having those on the rad and more flexible hoses would greatly help IMO as well.

 

[kristensenalex]

I see pump speed max at 4255, ive contacted arctic and they said that this is pump Read Out and the acutal speed is 2800 so dont be suprised if you see
that number in hwinfo or bios

 

[ADD007]

ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III AIO will damage your motherboard and CPU on AM4. Avoid to buy. More details here

 

[evernessince]

ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III AIO will damage your motherboard and CPU on AM4. Avoid to buy. More details here

Surely this video is in jest. I can't tell if he's saying that the 4 stick configuration is or isn't working. In addition when he switches to two sticks he doesn't remove the correct two sticks so the remaining two are incorrectly installed. The kit he's using is also an ECC server kit (ksm32ed8/32me). The conclusion in the video is that the mounting pressure damaged his socket but there's zero evidence provided in the video to back that up. I personally own a liquid freezer III and I don't find it's mounting pressure to be on the super high end, definitely not enough to damage the socket.

The poster of that video should consult others for assistance before posting a video next time.

 

[ADD007]

I wish this was a joke, but it's not. This memory worked perfectly BEFORE installing LF3 for 2 years on this board with Ryzen 3600 and 3950, without any problems in the 4x32 GB configuration. After installing LF3 on the motherboard, the dual-channel mode stopped working and this is a fact. And please, there are no newbies here. 2 channels - A2,B2 and A1,B1, all 4 memory slots are occupied by 4 sticks. It doesn't matter in what order you connect them all. If dual channel mode does not work. Idiot fastening with 2 short screws and a spring platform, and this is the result - damaged components without compensation from the manufacturer. The Arctic recognized that their fastening was problematic.

“Thank you for your feedback on the AMD installation process. It's really a bit complicated and we have already sent our suggestions to our engineers in Hong Kong. First, lightly tighten the four screws of the two clamps, then put on the pump and lightly insert the two top screws. Then tighten the four retaining screws in a crisscross pattern before slowly tightening the two screws on the pump head one at a time. »

Surprise - none of this was in the instructions on the website.

So the community should know what to expect from LF3 when mounted on AM4, and choose a higher quality AIO system.

 

[AusWolf]

Surely this video is in jest. I can't tell if he's saying that the 4 stick configuration is or isn't working. In addition when he switches to two sticks he doesn't remove the correct two sticks so the remaining two are incorrectly installed. The kit he's using is also an ECC server kit (ksm32ed8/32me). The conclusion in the video is that the mounting pressure damaged his socket but there's zero evidence provided in the video to back that up. I personally own a liquid freezer III and I don't find it's mounting pressure to be on the super high end, definitely not enough to damage the socket.

The poster of that video should consult others for assistance before posting a video next time.

Agreed. The guy is clearly rambling on about something, but he doesn't show literally any damage in the video. How does he know that the cooler is at fault and not anything else?

 

[evernessince]

I wish this was a joke, but it's not. This memory worked perfectly BEFORE installing LF3 for 2 years on this board with Ryzen 3600 and 3950, without any problems in the 4x32 GB configuration. After installing LF3 on the motherboard, the dual-channel mode stopped working and this is a fact. And please, there are no newbies here. 2 channels - A2,B2 and A1,B1, all 4 memory slots are occupied by 4 sticks. It doesn't matter in what order you connect them all. If dual channel mode does not work. Idiot fastening with 2 short screws and a spring platform, and this is the result - damaged components without compensation from the manufacturer. The Arctic recognized that their fastening was problematic.

RAM is to be installed in the 2nd and fourth slot when looking at the motherboard in an upright orientation. The 2 stick installation demonstrated in the video incorrect.

“Thank you for your feedback on the AMD installation process. It's really a bit complicated and we have already sent our suggestions to our engineers in Hong Kong. First, lightly tighten the four screws of the two clamps, then put on the pump and lightly insert the two top screws. Then tighten the four retaining screws in a crisscross pattern before slowly tightening the two screws on the pump head one at a time. »

Surprise - none of this was in the instructions on the website.

So the community should know what to expect from LF3 when mounted on AM4, and choose a higher quality AIO system.

I agree that the mounting mechanism is terrible but you've not demonstrated that the system not functioning is the result of the cooler. Just because system worked before installation and doesn't after isn't immediately an indication that the cooler mounting mechanism is at fault. It could very well be user error, whether that be static shock or over-tightening of the screws. I noticed in the video the RAM is pulled out of the system after only a few seconds of the system turning off. I know that at least for my motherboard, even with the power cable unplugged it still retains a charge for a good minute. No anti-static measures are used either, which is extremely problematic in dry environments (you are likely fine though if under more humid conditions).

 

[ADD007]

Let's make one thing clear, I'm the guy in the video. I've been building PCs for over 20 years. And this was the first time I encountered something like this. Regarding over-tightening of the screws and static shock - you are absolutely right, but this cannot happen if there is a hard stop on the screws, but Arctic did not provide it. And with such a terrible mounting, you need to somehow hook second screw, overcoming the resistance of a 2-3 millimeter steel plate, in any case you apply pressure! For example, take the mounting of a pump on EK nucleos and similar ones with 4 screws - an ideal solution that does not allow over-tightening of the screws and static shock to occur. Regarding static electricity - we are not in a laboratory after all, it is clear that before working with memory you need to turn off the computer and unplug the power cord, press the power button several times to discharge the capacitors and touch the metal to remove the charge from body. All this was done, of course. In addition, all 4 memory sticks work fine, but only in channels A1, B1. The video was filmed more for myself, I’m not a blogger) It’s clear that it could have been filmed better, longer, to show that the system does not start in channel A2, B2, etc. All I want is to warn the community about potential problems and the willingness to bear these risks at their own expense.

 

[remekra]

Whether it killed your MB or not I have to agree that it's stupid mounting mechanism. I've had LF2 and the mouting in LF3 is a step down, simply because of how hard it is to get that second screw in.
It's easy to slip a screwdriver and make a hole in your MB and overall it's simply not very nice to mount, took some time to mount it. Old one was better.

 

[Nokami]

ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III AIO will damage your motherboard and CPU on AM4. Avoid to buy. More details here

Wait, this is the exact same shit I've gone through the past week. A bit more details…

Timeline
NH-D15 (with contact frame, working CPU) -> Freezer III (BENT CPU, no dual channel working) -> Freezer II (with contact frame, new CPU, sadly a damaged pump) -> Freezer III (BENT CPU again, it's working tho)

I have installed several cooling solutions and built many PCs over the past 20 years, but this shit is something else. And after a whole new CPU, I also think I know why this is happening. It all comes down to the terrible contact frame from Arctic. If you move the frame towards the yellow arrow in the picture, and then start with the top screws first, you will bend the CPU within the red outline. It's enough to bend the CPU that it will not start with dual-channel, or simply not boot at all anymore. I've gone through intensive testing why my ram was not detected anymore.

I would take a picture from my new CPU that I've installed, but I won't remove that shit until I really have to or replacement is here.




I didn't immediately see the bending of the first CPU after I've installed the Freezer III. My initial thought were focused on other things, as CPU's rarely get damaged and it never happend to me. As only dual channel was not working anymore, I've ordered a new Motherboard and GDDR5 RAM. Installed both and the same error came up, it was stuck at RAM while booting. Sometimes it would get stuck with a red indicator at CPU, so I've decided to really take a deep look at what the fuck was happening. Took the CPU out again and saw that it was clearly bend at the bottom part. Well... now I knew what was causing the issue.

Ordered a new CPU, came within a day and installed it with an also new Arctic Freezer II, everything was working great, but the Pump was sadly insanely loud and I could not fix it. It was more of a rattling and not some air bubbles. I used the old contact frame with the Freezer II and after removing everything to get my Arctic Freezer III again installed, I've made sure to look at the CPU and there was nothing, no bending, no damage at all.

Now today I've installed the Freezer III and was immediately greeted with a red CPU indicator and once again sometimes it was flashing Red and Yellow for both CPU and RAM. Took the thing apart once again to see what is the issue now, and I obviously looked for the CPU again, and it was once again bent at the same point. Now I was messing around with the contact frame a bit more and played with it, there is clearly something wrong with that thing. Why does it have the bottom open that much, so much that you can actually move the frame quite a bit and install it in almost two positions? One position holds the CPU more centered and one which is like in the picture more towards the top of the frame. I took the frame and pushed the CPU completely against the top of it, installing the bottom screws first because the CPU is bent there so it needs contact. And suddenly the PC started, with dual-channel enabled, etc.

I'm not 100% sure this is how the bending really happened, that's a theory of mine. I've spent a whole week troubleshooting wild things, but all I know is that there is something very wrong with the mounting. Furthermore, I'm currently debating on sending the Freezer III back, but that would also mean that the potential damage could be much bigger just from de-mounting again, resulting in the loss of the CPU once again. What a week this was...

Hey.. but at least the Freezer III has no pump issues for my part, it's really quiet.

 

[evernessince]

Wait, this is the exact same shit I've gone through the past week. A bit more details…

Timeline
NH-D15 (with contact frame, working CPU) -> Freezer III (BENT CPU, no dual channel working) -> Freezer II (with contact frame, new CPU, sadly a damaged pump) -> Freezer III (BENT CPU again, it's working tho)

I have installed several cooling solutions and built many PCs over the past 20 years, but this shit is something else. And after a whole new CPU, I also think I know why this is happening. It all comes down to the terrible contact frame from Arctic. If you move the frame towards the yellow arrow in the picture, and then start with the top screws first, you will bend the CPU within the red outline. It's enough to bend the CPU that it will not start with dual-channel, or simply not boot at all anymore. I've gone through intensive testing why my ram was not detected anymore.

I would take a picture from my new CPU that I've installed, but I won't remove that shit until I really have to or replacement is here.

View attachment 342053


I didn't immediately see the bending of the first CPU after I've installed the Freezer III. My initial thought were focused on other things, as CPU's rarely get damaged and it never happend to me. As only dual channel was not working anymore, I've ordered a new Motherboard and GDDR5 RAM. Installed both and the same error came up, it was stuck at RAM while booting. Sometimes it would get stuck with a red indicator at CPU, so I've decided to really take a deep look at what the fuck was happening. Took the CPU out again and saw that it was clearly bend at the bottom part. Well... now I knew what was causing the issue.

Ordered a new CPU, came within a day and installed it with an also new Arctic Freezer II, everything was working great, but the Pump was sadly insanely loud and I could not fix it. It was more of a rattling and not some air bubbles. I used the old contact frame with the Freezer II and after removing everything to get my Arctic Freezer III again installed, I've made sure to look at the CPU and there was nothing, no bending, no damage at all.

Now today I've installed the Freezer III and was immediately greeted with a red CPU indicator and once again sometimes it was flashing Red and Yellow for both CPU and RAM. Took the thing apart once again to see what is the issue now, and I obviously looked for the CPU again, and it was once again bent at the same point. Now I was messing around with the contact frame a bit more and played with it, there is clearly something wrong with that thing. Why does it have the bottom open that much, so much that you can actually move the frame quite a bit and install it in almost two positions? One position holds the CPU more centered and one which is like in the picture more towards the top of the frame. I took the frame and pushed the CPU completely against the top of it, installing the bottom screws first because the CPU is bent there so it needs contact. And suddenly the PC started, with dual-channel enabled, etc.

I'm not 100% sure this is how the bending really happened, that's a theory of mine. I've spent a whole week troubleshooting wild things, but all I know is that there is something very wrong with the mounting. Furthermore, I'm currently debating on sending the Freezer III back, but that would also mean that the potential damage could be much bigger just from de-mounting again, resulting in the loss of the CPU once again. What a week this was...

Hey.. but at least the Freezer III has no pump issues for my part, it's really quiet.

No picture of bend? Definitely seems like something we would all like to see including arctic?

 

[Nokami]

No picture of bend? Definitely seems like something we would all like to see including arctic?

I won't take it apart till at least Monday so that I have instant backup available if neccecary. My issue is also not really the same as in the video (AM4), I'll just wanted to tell my story after seeing this thread. There is just something wrong with the mounting.

I will indeed contact Arctic too, but for now it's good enough to get over the weekend with it. Already spent like 600€ for all the bullshit. Not keen to just risk another big sum that is likely not covered by warranty.

As soon as I have a backup CPU available I will post a picture and contact Arctic about the the issue I've had.

 

[Heiro78]

I won't take it apart till at least Monday so that I have instant backup available if neccecary. My issue is also not really the same as in the video (AM4), I'll just wanted to tell my story after seeing this thread. There is just something wrong with the mounting.

I will indeed contact Arctic too, but for now it's good enough to get over the weekend with it. Already spent like 600€ for all the bullshit. Not keen to just risk another big sum that is likely not covered by warranty.

As soon as I have a backup CPU available I will post a picture and contact Arctic about the the issue I've had.

Hey, any update on this issue? Is the bending visible on the second CPU?

 

[Nokami]

Hey, any update on this issue? Is the bending visible on the second CPU?

Had a long ass week with a wrist operation, so had other things in mind. Well yes, I made some pictures of the bending of the second CPU, I tried to contact Arctic but no answer yet. I'm kinda over this Product, at least in its current iteration. I settled on a refurbished 360 LF2 for like 60€ officially from them. It's not really that much quieter, the LF3 has some QA Issues with the Pump it seems, both of mine were dead silent. But in at least my specific case, the 'wrong' mounting seemingly can lead to CPU bending (MSI Z690 Pro). No Issue at all for the other two contact frames I have. I just don't understand why they decided to create their own contact frame that has worse pressure than the regular TG and TT ones we already have. We will probably see how widespread some issues are in the coming months.

Unlike the TT Contact Frame, the one provided here from Arctic has more wiggle room within the socket for the CPU.

Picture of CPU 2.
This one is not that much bend, the perspective isn't great, but It's clearly visible even here. This CPU mounted in 'middle' (see picture) will lead to a red LED indicator for RAM on my board. Sliding it at the very top will fix this issue, everything including XMP works fine. In the Gamers Nexus video, they show the middle position too. There are not really 2 positions obviously, it's just how much I can move my CPU in the socket (idk 2mm). So I think it could've been the mainboard, I replaced mine and the second has the same amount of play. But then the whole Product is flawed if there are Issues with certain specific boards.

 

[Heiro78]

Had a long ass week with a wrist operation, so had other things in mind. Well yes, I made some pictures of the bending of the second CPU, I tried to contact Arctic but no answer yet. I'm kinda over this Product, at least in its current iteration. I settled on a refurbished 360 LF2 for like 60€ officially from them. It's not really that much quieter, the LF3 has some QA Issues with the Pump it seems, both of mine were dead silent. But in at least my specific case, the 'wrong' mounting seemingly can lead to CPU bending (MSI Z690 Pro). No Issue at all for the other two contact frames I have. I just don't understand why they decided to create their own contact frame that has worse pressure than the regular TG and TT ones we already have. We will probably see how widespread some issues are in the coming months.

Unlike the TT Contact Frame, the one provided here from Arctic has more wiggle room within the socket for the CPU.

Picture of CPU 2.
This one is not that much bend, the perspective isn't great, but It's clearly visible even here. This CPU mounted in 'middle' (see picture) will lead to a red LED indicator for RAM on my board. Sliding it at the very top will fix this issue, everything including XMP works fine. In the Gamers Nexus video, they show the middle position too. There are not really 2 positions obviously, it's just how much I can move my CPU in the socket (idk 2mm). So I think it could've been the mainboard, I replaced mine and the second has the same amount of play. But then the whole Product is flawed if there are Issues with certain specific boards.

View attachment 343762

Thanks for the follow up. I had a LFIII 420 but had to return it due to a pin on the pump block being stuck and not have the VRM Fan block working properly. I didn't have this issue but it makes me wary and worth considering when my replacement comes in.

Have a good one and a speedy recovery for your wrist

 

[gasolin]

I am using the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 and the tubes seems short on this version I wonder if the 360 is just as short. It would be a problem for my setup.View attachment 335561
Currently haveing it with a pull configuration with 2x120mm inside the case and 3x120mm on the front of the cabinet

View attachment 335562
I fear that those short tubes wouldnt allow the same routing as I have in my front mount because they wouldt be able to strech over the GPU.
View attachment 335563
But else I surprised by the poor Intel performance considering the special mounting bracket for Intel?

LookingView attachment 335565 at the webpage of the manufactor its seems that the tubeing has the same length as the privious model at 450mm but looking at this pictur from the same, it seems very short.

I would fear that front mount only would be possible with the tubes in the top position and not under the GPU as in the old version.

They should make an extra long version of the 360 and 420 for those with big full case towers that can be use with 2 systems, something like 600mm

I can definitely confirm the AMD mounting is terrible as GN pointed out.

What to buy instead ?

Prices atm for the freezer III are daam good compared to a notuca NH-D15 and it's hardly being avarage + 90 euros,even the Noctua NH-U12A (for still under 100 euros) is struggling to kepp up with thermalright and the artic freezer III 240 aio. Noctua need to comout with the new NH-D15 or else thermalright takes the air cooler marked and artic freezer the marked for aio's

 

[evernessince]

They should make an extra long version of the 360 and 420 for those with big full case towers that can be use with 2 systems, something like 600mm


What to buy instead ?

Prices atm for the freezer III are daam good compared to a notuca NH-D15 and it's hardly being avarage + 90 euros,even the Noctua NH-U12A (for still under 100 euros) is struggling to kepp up with thermalright and the artic freezer III 240 aio. Noctua need to comout with the new NH-D15 or else thermalright takes the air cooler marked and artic freezer the marked for aio's

View attachment 344734

View attachment 344738

Depending on your budget the Endorfy Navis and DarkFlash Twister are good options, the latter being cheaper at $90. They are within a few percentage points of the LF III performance wise. Really the only reason to put up with the Liquid Freezer's mounting mechanism is if you are chasing the best of the best thermal performance.

Noctua definitely need to get their new fan and cooler design out of the door but I'm assuing they won't do that until everything is 100%. It's going to be hard for them to top new coolers are the market that match NH-D15 performance at $40 and new fans like the Phanteks T30 that are a noticable step up from everything else.

 

[jesdals]

I second that a long tube edition for 360 and 420 would be a nice option - but so would a fat rad edition to e.g. a 60mm thick rad instead of the current 38mm - but then again I would proberly go with a 38mm any way to make room for the GPU any way. Hope that Artic hear / follow this.

 

[gasolin]

The am4 mount

I found a Darkflash DX240 for an okay price, also a Endorfy Navis F240

I also found a Deepcool LT520 for about the same price (which i bought) anti leak, fair price good performance, i could get it tomorrow which i can't with the 2 other aios

cpu cooler mounted it has a not to pretty cover for the pump and 1 extra cable i won't be using (argb)

The 2 highest settings in prime my 5900x won't boost to 4500mhz but does it in occt low 70's after 20 min run

The pump don't whine

 

[Heiro78]

I second that a long tube edition for 360 and 420 would be a nice option - but so would a fat rad edition to e.g. a 60mm thick rad instead of the current 38mm - but then again I would proberly go with a 38mm any way to make room for the GPU any way. Hope that Artic hear / follow this.

I tried getting the 420 front installed with tubes down, my video card interferes. While I could force it, it'd be stressing the video card even with the anti-sag bracket.

 

[jesdals]

Well at least it shouldnt be a problem with the tubes upwards