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Help me complete build list

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Aim is to have a well balanced Intel gaming only system that never leaves 4K or V-Sync in FH5, AC Odyssey, Uncharted LoT, or Hunter COTW, GoW (Ghost of Tsushima etc). No idea if any game mentioned hammers a single core or greatly depends on a different system trait like RAM speed and latency. Fumbling in BIOS detuning chip to physical cores only for maximum performance? Not opposed to a few hours setup to play a single game for the next week if build ends up being flexible enough. Locked to 58fps should allow RT and all the other stuff I've been missing, on demand.

I'm highly lacking in proficiency or experience that would allow determining a good setup outside focusing on massive framerates or getting every bit of performance to dollar possible for max ultra settings everywhere. Realistically, in peak Summer nice to have settings will be turned down and will otherwise run a mixed bag that game works best at.

Basically I have no idea level of hardware that completes what increasingly seems to be focused around using a 65" tv. If a K chip even makes sense given larger cache size or another variable are present. Reasonably low levels of stress on VRM keep pushing me away from 2x-3x spend on D5 and actual gaming mobo. Poor proposition way market was structured to avoid existence of a single decent lower end board even with DDR4. At which point I'm not inspired to ditch mATX case. LOL, I really deeply with a passion hate shopping because real world needs don't fit what anyone wants to sell.

Thus far I have 750w PSU and RTX 3080 10GB (fans/drives/etc...) devoted to this build.
 
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Might I ask what country are you from, so we can give a little more focus on regional prices? Otherwise people will post some great deals here that you won't have access to.

Generally speaking, either 13th or 14th gen i5's are plenty for gaming. xx400(F) for the budget/power-conscious, xx600K(F) for some serious performance. Ideally paired with decent DDR5 memory, but work fine with good DDR4 as well (I just wouldn't recommend it if it can be avoided).

Also, if I understood correctly keeping mATX factor (or smaller) is a must, right?
 
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750w is not enough for a 3080 and an Intel CPU powerful enough to run that GPU. The 3080 alone spikes upwards of 533w during transient spikes:

1709830924793.png



You could get away with a 7800X3D as that CPU only consumes 77w under full load but by restricting yourself to Intel that means you can't fit even a 14600K / 13600K in your power budget as they consume 174 / 189w under the same conditions. 533 + 189 = 722. Factor in 20w for the mobo, 2w for the RAM, and 6w for any fans and lighting (which assumes low performance fans, higher performance fans can take 6-7w each) and that puts you right at the PSU's total wattage, of which the PSU will likely not deliver the entirely over the 12v rail so you will be over. We don't know the quality of your PSU either, which is a huge factor here. If you must go Intel a 13400 is really the highest part you can fit in your power budget. I'd recommend either increasing the PSU wattage and going for at least a 13600K or just going AMD with something like a 7800X3D or 5800X3D.

A 3080 is not a good choice for 4K with RT enabled, both of which are going to increase the VRAM requirements. 10GB is not enough for any resolution over 1080p with RT enabled. You will have texture pop-in issues and a large portion will spill over into main system memory, causing a hit to frame consistency. That's right now, let alone into the future. You want at the absolute minimum 12GB of VRAM to avoid issues, better yet 16GB to ensure the card lasts more than a year without having to make several compromises.

Capping frame-rate to 58 FPS will only limit the raster workload, it won't decrease the VRAM space used by a game.

Reasonably low levels of stress on VRM keep pushing me away from 2x-3x spend on D5 and actual gaming mobo. Poor proposition way market was structured to avoid existence of a single decent lower end board even with DDR4. At which point I'm not inspired to ditch mATX case. LOL, I really deeply with a passion hate shopping because real world needs don't fit what anyone wants to sell.

You are going to want to ensure that whatever mobo you do buy can supply the the power needed. I would not go budget board with something like a 13600K or above. I would also not recommend going DDR4 either as more and more games are seeing a benefit from DDR5. DDR5 is hardly more expensive than DDR5 nowadays and can provide up to a 20% boost in some games.
 
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750w is not enough for a 3080 and an Intel CPU powerful enough to run that GPU. The 3080 alone spikes upwards of 533w during transient spikes:
You know 750W is the rated power, and a good PSU can handle short excursions above it if they're not absurdly high, right?

We don't know the quality of your PSU either, which is a huge factor here. If you must go Intel a 13400 is really the highest part you can fit in your power budget. I'd recommend either increasing the PSU wattage and going for at least a 13600K or just going AMD with something like a 7800X3D or 5800X3D.
If OP is going to carry over his current 750W PSU, it's a great one. A bit old, that's true, but only that.
 
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Might I ask what country are you from, so we can give a little more focus on regional prices? Otherwise people will post some great deals here that you won't have access to.

US, lots of options. Typically shop locally so returns/RMA are day of instead of 3 month email chains with lengthy shipping and inspection periods.

Generally speaking, either 13th or 14th gen i5's are plenty for gaming. xx400(F) for the budget/power-conscious, xx600K(F) for some serious performance. Ideally paired with decent DDR5 memory, but work fine with good DDR4 as well.

Conundrum is mobo and DDR version. DDR5 is weighted towards higher end mobo both in speeds and attaining claims on XMP/OC capability. Previous gen GPU being held back to 60fps lands me exactly where $$$ brings little gains and less $$$ is intentionally a featureless letdown. In any case you want all components on a similar level. So what is the right direction, up or down?

Also, if I understood correctly keeping mATX factor (or smaller) is a must, right?

Planned to go ATX after coming across GPU upgrade. Then realized VSync vastly altered real world gaming requirements. Having a hard time finding monetary sense in doubling or tripling cost unless it brings a whole lot of performance across the years I own this system.

iTX is nowhere near being an option in case larger than most ATX.
mATX seems to equate with D4 and 13400 if only because of mobo availability.
ATX would probably mean D5 on a higher end board if performance justified considerable extra cost on case and components.

You know 750W is the rated power, and a good PSU can handle short excursions above it if they're not absurdly high, right?

TPU review of my GPU lists 700w recommended. VSync drops average gaming power closer to 125w from +300. I have 750w for benchmarks or anything else that actually pushes CPU and GPU together.

I expect 10GB will be enough VRAM for the type of gaming I do. 1440 or lower settings are not end of the world. Much as I expect to stick with 3080 and be happy. 5xxx is very much an unknown where RAM sizes or leaked claims of performance 70% above 4xxx might exist in the actual product with no release date set. Not being able to use the 3080 is a present day concern.
 
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Trying to fit 13/14th gen i5-K with DDR5 on mATX, I compiled this little list (and yes, I know pairing a K processor with a B motherboard is a bit of a waste):

Were you to search locally for these parts, would the prices and performance target please you?
 
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Were you to search locally for these parts, would the prices and performance target please you?

I take it you feel DDR5 offers enough benefits to cut costs elsewhere. Honestly I'd go ATX (not Gigabyte thank you all the same) and Z board without question if there weren't so many compromising money grabs involved. Geopolitical situation being rough has no bearing on making components that are a fit for almost every gaming system, ie lower end of middle range through lower range of higher range.

Both of these were thrown together in a few minutes and very unrefined.. My thoughts are very unrefined.

PCpartspicker doesn't even list the single mATX Z790 worth considering locally. TR upped themselves with Phantom Spirit Evo. Chances are I shop used market for discontinued DDR4 worth owning so I just plugged in what I have on hand.


This was my DDR5 based system with no idea what RAM to get or if the board is junk. Again locally available.

 

Hugis

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Hi, looks like you in a bit of a jam, i went for ddr4 (price at the time v ddr5) a decentish Asus tuf B660 and a 12500 with a PA120se.
If i were to repeat, i would prolly go with the tuf range again(come up on sale alot-just dont install the Armourycrate bloat ware) a 14500 or 13500 as they have the full cache and are quite low tdp compared to the k units and here lies the big elephant in the room ddr4 is so cheap, yup id do that again (ddr3600-check qvl list of motherboard)

Actually i have just rebuilt my wifes pc and a went with a ddr4 tuf b760m and 32gb 3600 corsair memory with a 12400(she doesnt game)

heres what id suggest , im sure some people will disagree :) cooler your pref, this is getting good reviews( you will have to fit the custom cpu holder).
Memory is compatable with the board.
The 14500 is cheaper but IF the bios is old it will not support it (pre 1205 bios) so swap with 13500(v little difference).

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sGD6dH

EDIT

DDR5 version with matx board

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ksTXN6
 
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I take it you feel DDR5 offers enough benefits to cut costs elsewhere. Honestly I'd go ATX (not Gigabyte thank you all the same) and Z board without question if there weren't so many compromising money grabs involved. Geopolitical situation being rough has no bearing on making components that are a fit for almost every gaming system, ie lower end of middle range through lower range of higher range.

Both of these were thrown together in a few minutes and very unrefined.. My thoughts are very unrefined.

PCpartspicker doesn't even list the single mATX Z790 worth considering locally. TR upped themselves with Phantom Spirit Evo. Chances are I shop used market for discontinued DDR4 worth owning so I just plugged in what I have on hand.


This was my DDR5 based system with no idea what RAM to get or if the board is junk. Again locally available.

Sorry if my list appeared to be half-assed, it was not my intention. So I'll explain some:

1) While I'd not call DDR5 critical, it's the current standard and if some years ahead you either want to upgrade capacity or have issues with your modules, it'll be easier to deal with DDR5 than DDR4. Also, DDR5-6000C36 performs (or used to) roughly on par with a well-tuned DDR4-3600C14.
2) I understood from the opening post you weren't inspired to ditch mATX, so I followed that. About GB, I've been using their mobos for almost a decade with no hitches at all, so I trust their motherboards.
3) From B to Z the main bonuses are oc capability and PCIE 5.0. The former I see as almost moot with how modern processors work, the latter as completely superfluous - 4.0 is plenty.
4) Combining points 2 and 3, the Aorus Elite is a pretty well-built B760M board. Not the cheapest, but far from the most expensive either.
5) I chose the i5-K because for gaming alone it is AMAZING bang-for-buck and powerful enough. Without chugging loads of power and spewing heat like no tomorrow.
6) Taking 5 into consideration, I threw in the Peerless Assassin. While I don't have first-hand experience with it, I see people saying it's really good and really cheap. What's not to like?

Yes, I know it was a rough list, but that was just to give you an idea, which you could improve upon. And you've then come yourself with TWO ideas. Mission accomplished?
 

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Sorry if my list appeared to be half-assed, it was not my intention. So I'll explain some:

1) While I'd not call DDR5 critical, it's the current standard and if some years ahead you either want to upgrade capacity or have issues with your modules, it'll be easier to deal with DDR5 than DDR4. Also, DDR5-6000C36 performs (or used to) roughly on par with a well-tuned DDR4-3600C14.
2) I understood from the opening post you weren't inspired to ditch mATX, so I followed that. About GB, I've been using their mobos for almost a decade with no hitches at all, so I trust their motherboards.
3) From B to Z the main bonuses are oc capability and PCIE 5.0. The former I see as almost moot with how modern processors work, the latter as completely superfluous - 4.0 is plenty.
4) Combining points 2 and 3, the Aorus Elite is a pretty well-built B760M board. Not the cheapest, but far from the most expensive either.
5) I chose the i5-K because for gaming alone it is AMAZING bang-for-buck and powerful enough. Without chugging loads of power and spewing heat like no tomorrow.
6) Taking 5 into consideration, I threw in the Peerless Assassin. While I don't have first-hand experience with it, I see people saying it's really good and really cheap. What's not to like?

Yes, I know it was a rough list, but that was just to give you an idea, which you could improve upon. And you've then come yourself with TWO ideas. Mission accomplished?
Seems like DDR5 has stablised in price since i last looked :) especially in the US
 
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Apologies for late response. Last two weeks solid a meltdown of some form happens the instant I start working towards settling this to my satisfaction. Getting a bit worn by it.

mATX is the eff it and be done answer. Replace mobo and plug in already neatly managed cables. 13500 was an excellent suggestion here!
Concern with PCIe 4.0 mobo - offers Zero or below chance of upgrade path to 5xxx GPU if it transcends beyond world changing into the realm of new universal standard bearer. :D


I'll look over the pcpartspicker lists and suggestions further tonight if peace and quiet can be found.
 

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Have you bought anything yet?

If the 3080 can be returned, I'd return it for a 4070S/4070 Ti S. Efficiency and DLSS3/3.5 are both much better than Ampere and 12/16.GB more suited to 4K.

Otherwise - 13600/14700K
32 GB of 7200 MT RAM
ITX/mATX MOBO, ASUS/ASROCK, two DIMM for perf. Z790
ATX 3.0 PSU, be quiet! has good options.
Any SSDs from our editors choice reviews.
Any cooler from our editors choice reviews.

60 Hz is meh even with RT. Consider at least 120 Hz 4K, much more fun.

10 GB is also going to be an issue for many games in 4K native, but you have an NVIDIA GPU so at least you have DLSS/DLAA.
 

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Apologies for late response. Last two weeks solid a meltdown of some form happens the instant I start working towards settling this to my satisfaction. Getting a bit worn by it.

mATX is the eff it and be done answer. Replace mobo and plug in already neatly managed cables. 13500 was an excellent suggestion here!
Concern with PCIe 4.0 mobo - offers Zero or below chance of upgrade path to 5xxx GPU if it transcends beyond world changing into the realm of new universal standard bearer. :D
Both Asus Tuf boards are PCIe 5.0 by the way :)
 
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PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: *Intel Core i7-13700 2.1 GHz 16-Core Processor ($339.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: *ID-COOLING FROZN A620 BLACK 78.25 CFM CPU Cooler ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: *Gigabyte B760M AORUS ELITE AX Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($169.99 @ B&H)
Memory: *Silicon Power Value Gaming 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($92.97 @ Amazon)
Total: $642.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-03-08 02:22 EST-0500
 
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Have you bought anything yet?
Thus far I have 750w PSU and RTX 3080 10GB (fans/drives/etc...) devoted to this build.

Per above, I have every intent to keep the 3080 and PSU. 4xxx was purposely avoided. What I think is repeatedly missed in my statements on graphics is impact of having a quad core devoted to them built into tv. However this interaction works allows current 1060 to function above normal. Many games also have adopted a profile that works well on older hardware.

60 Hz is meh even with RT. Consider at least 120 Hz 4K, much more fun.

Very well may be. 60fps without tearing or any other issues is reasonable to live with. Instead of devoting resources to fishing at 400fps I'd walk out the door and just go fish. SOTR or FH5 would be nice to have double the fps. Nice but not necessary.

10 GB is also going to be an issue for many games in 4K native, but you have an NVIDIA GPU so at least you have DLSS/DLAA.

Fractious and fragmented. Focus on VRAM and another debilitating shortcoming was planned and implemented. ;)

1080ti was relevant for AAA max setting gamers as long as 1060 lasted me. This will probably correlate along similar lines. 1440 or non-native 4K is what I should've typed.
 
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