Don't sell it claiming it's OK. That's not even remotely right. If you plan to sell, tell the buyer up front you think it may be damaged.
And a 35W iron will work fine as long as you use the right solder and use a fine tip. I use a 35W iron on my vmods.
Agreed. 35W is about the right recommendation for working on PCBs, anything lower tends to take too long to heat up the actual solder, and wick too much heat to the PCB and component.
@imperialreign - How accurate are those opamps? I want low distortion, but high accuracy. I was thinking of throwing some new ones on my Audigy 2, just for some fun.
They're pretty good - I'd have to rate them up there in-so-far as the quality compared to other OPAMPs on the market that would fit that style seat.
Here's a comparison between the LM4562s (which is what just about everyone recommends) and the AD8599s (which is what I recommend):
http://forums.techpowerup.com/showpost.php?p=884307&postcount=689
To summarize, the LM4562 is a major step
above the OE OPAMPs, the AD8599s are a major step above the LM4562.
They give a much cleaner output, reduced channel bleeding, better frequency range output, etc.
As well, they don't pick up much in the way of EMI/RFI from neighboring components, unlike the LM4562s - For comparison, I compared the LM4562s to the OE OPAMPs here, as well as comparing the 4562s before and after addition of copper heatsinks (which act as mini-EMI shields):
http://forums.techpowerup.com/showpost.php?p=817967&postcount=568
Somewhere deep in this thread, too, I had compared the difference between the 8599 before and after adding heatsinks, but can't find it . . . anyhow, there's little of any change in reduction of noise with copper heatsinks installed.
Between their pricing (which is fairly dirt-cheap) and their quality, I haven't been able to find any others that compare. There are some brands that have a little higher quality output, but they're expensive as crap (i.e. $80+ for 4-5 OPAMPs).
