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TPU's Core i7 Overclocking and Feedback

t_ski

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That rad is decent, but IDK about the block.

Hammer, I assume you took the block off and checked the compound to see how well it flattened out? That might be your trouble.
 
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That rad is decent, but IDK about the block.

Hammer, I assume you took the block off and checked the compound to see how well it flattened out? That might be your trouble.

I have the block and it's not the greatest, but my temps are not bad at all. However, TIM could be his issue as well.



@ these settings

 

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only think I can think of is either the rad is just crappy, but if I'm not mistaken some here have used it with pretty good results, or the block is mounted wrong or something. You sure the inlet and outlet are not reversed, happened to me twice, FIT used to kick my ass until I fixed it. Temps never were affected for me, but hey that was just me.

Yeah I have the water going into the left nozzle (inlet port - the one with the circle idention). I guess that I need to take the block off and re-mount. I will use Arctic Silver Ceramique or do you think I should stick with Arctic Silver 5 (or I could use the stuff that came with the Apogee). Which one do you think? Those are the only ones I have at the moment.
I got the rad from TheGoatEater and it appears to be in good shape. The fans are on the back side and is pulling air through the rad instead of pushing air through. Should this make a difference. Also, I have the pump > WB > rad > res set-up. This has worked well for me in the past, but I am up to trying anything to get this figured out. I am about to say fuckit and put the V8 back on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for your help:)
 

t_ski

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You have a bigger rad and a different pump. I think flow might be higher on yours than his.
 
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take off the block and see how well the TIM spread out. If it didn't spread out well that can be your issue. Apply it again.

I have Pump>Rad>CPU>Res>pump etc works for me. Don't know if you should try that or not. Don't think that is your issue though.
 

Fitseries3

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i couldnt keep a q6600 cool with a mcr320. can it and get a thicker rad.
 
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Yeah I have the water going into the left nozzle (inlet port - the one with the circle idention). I guess that I need to take the block off and re-mount. I will use Arctic Silver Ceramique or do you think I should stick with Arctic Silver 5 (or I could use the stuff that came with the Apogee). Which one do you think? Those are the only ones I have at the moment.
I got the rad from TheGoatEater and it appears to be in good shape. The fans are on the back side and is pulling air through the rad instead of pushing air through. Should this make a difference. Also, I have the pump > WB > rad > res set-up. This has worked well for me in the past, but I am up to trying anything to get this figured out. I am about to say fuckit and put the V8 back on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for your help:)

You should get better performance with the fans pushing rather than pulling.
 
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You should get better performance with the fans pushing rather than pulling.

I meant to comment on that in my previous post but forgot. I switch from pull to push and saw like a 5ºc drop :)
 

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Still a work in progress

Thanks all for your help!
 

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take off the block and see how well the TIM spread out. If it didn't spread out well that can be your issue. Apply it again.

I have Pump>Rad>CPU>Res>pump etc works for me. Don't know if you should try that or not. Don't think that is your issue though.

Should I stick with the AS 5; or use the AS Ceramique?
 

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i couldnt keep a q6600 cool with a mcr320. can it and get a thicker rad.

My MCR-320 does just fine on a Q6600 and this QX both at 1.7V. I understand that the i7's are quite a bit hotter, but the MCR-320 is a good rad, just not high end.

As far as your setup HammerON, go with push fans, and ASC or AS5 shouldn't make a whole lot of difference, so pick whichever is easiest for you.
 
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Judging from your pics I think you need to swap the inlet and outlet lines.
 
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Does AS5 or MX2/3 deteriorate over time? I've got a 12g tube of AS5 and wanted to put it in my dad's pc, but thought I remember reading that certain TIMs need to be reapplied every year or so and thought AS5 was one. Unfortunately, I can't remember where I saw that.
 

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funny, I had those inverted twice, and idle nor load temps changed not one degree. :confused:
 

Binge

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Here's a question... In that photo you have your rad behind your computer where most of the heat is dumped out by your air cooled GPU and system fans... I hope you aren't pulling hot air into your radiator. That's a bad way to get rid of heat in a water loop.
 

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Here's a question... In that photo you have your rad behind your computer where most of the heat is dumped out by your air cooled GPU and system fans... I hope you aren't pulling hot air into your radiator. That's a bad way to get rid of heat in a water loop.

Yeah I agree. It wasn't the best placement.
I think I found the problem. When I took off the wb here is how the TIM looked:



So I re-applied AS Ceramique and then when I went to attach the WB to the motherboard I noticed that the top right screw wouldn't tighten all the way. It is stripped and I think this is what was causing the high temps (not a good contact with the cpu).
So I have placed the V8 back on and am crunching again at 4.0 GHz :toast:
I am going to contact Performance-PCs.com and see what they will do for me. I think I will go with a Heatkiller this time.
 

Fitseries3

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thats WAY too much TIM.

you may also have a badly shaped IHS or base on that block.

some lapping may ensue
 

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Yep ~ thanks Fits. Still learning.
 
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Yep ~ thanks Fits. Still learning.

change the block and when you get the new one make sure it is making better contact. Oh, and yeah, less TIM :p
 

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Also make sure you clean off the TIM correctly. I like to use Acetone on a rag, but people have their own methods.
 

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I just got my classified installed last night and today I am trying to overclock it somewhat, I am having some trouble with the voltage settings using E-leet and even the BIOS, they are not being entered in correctly, or the read outs are wrong, my DRAM for example. I set it to 1.66V in BIOS and in E-leet although, the monitoring tab in E-leet shows DRAM at 1.72V and even HWmoniter shows the same read out. I also notice it with my QPI voltage, the VTT in BIOS is set to say +250Mv but in the E-leet read out I am getting 1.52V and then in another place I am getting 1.42V, so it is weird to have 2 different reading for a single voltage even using the same program...





Any ideas classified owners or anyone? I also ordered a new set of the Kingston Hyper X 2000 Mhz RAM the cas 9 timing one,not the real expensive kit, any news on how these clock and how tight you can get the timings on them?
 
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