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Ghetto Mods

sneekypeet

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I can use some to fill the large hole in the far side, one sec:)

 
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de.das.dude

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can you explain that ^
 

MohawkAngel

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or you can hack a yellow wire LOL!

Yes you could in na ugly job :p Ghetto job of course lol. The pus I modded in this thread has really short wire and it will be perfect for the case I will recieve on wednesday as HTPC. Maybe only need to make the 4pins plug longer. I'll take a look ;)
 

de.das.dude

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Yes you could in na ugly job :p Ghetto job of course lol. The pus I modded in this thread has really short wire and it will be perfect for the case I will recieve on wednesday as HTPC. Maybe only need to make the 4pins plug longer. I'll take a look ;)

why should it be ghetto, you can strip thr plastic off the yellow wire for a portion in the middle, dont cut the wire. put flux on it, take the fans wire, give it a layer of soldering, connect the peeled wire and the fan wire in a T and then solder em together. dont melt the plastic sleeving of the yellow wire.
 

MohawkAngel

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why should it be ghetto, you can strip thr plastic off the yellow wire for a portion in the middle, dont cut the wire. put flux on it, take the fans wire, give it a layer of soldering, connect the peeled wire and the fan wire in a T and then solder em together. dont melt the plastic sleeving of the yellow wire.

Of course you could do it but if the begin to make noise or die you have to unsolder it. Thats real shitty in my opinion. Thats why its better to modify the fan wires with a molex plug or modify the molex plug already on the fan. Like that you have nothing to un-solder when you have to change the fan.
 

de.das.dude

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Of course you could do it but if the begin to make noise or die you have to unsolder it. Thats real shitty in my opinion. Thats why its better to modify the fan wires with a molex plug or modify the molex plug already on the fan. Like that you have nothing to un-solder when you have to change the fan.
:/ then why not hack the yellow wire and connect a molex :/
 

de.das.dude

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Thats what I explained in the earlier post before you told about the soldering wire man lol

You can solder the wires of a molex to the yellow wire just as you can solder the molex to the fan pins. Generally the fan pins have starting voltage of 5v and go up all the way to 12v. So if your fan doesnt start at 5v or if the fan you put in moves air better than the stock fan, it wouldnt require full 12v, so you can then use the yellow wire with a resistor in series to the molex male for the fan. Varying the magnitude of the resistor you can vary fan speed.
 

MohawkAngel

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Or like i did you could just put the fan on the 5 volt wire directly depending of what you want. I have fans that are mostly dead silent and still pushing good amount of air at 5v so i dont need to mess around with resistors and stuff like that.
 

de.das.dude

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Or like i did you could just put the fan on the 5 volt wire directly depending of what you want. I have fans that are mostly dead silent and still pushing good amount of air at 5v so i dont need to mess around with resistors and stuff like that.

which means you are a man of no fun :(
 

sneekypeet

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can you explain that ^

That is a potentiometer in a tin with duct tape (for ghetto factor). Used for fan control and has a DMM attached so I can see what voltage is applied.
 

de.das.dude

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That is a potentiometer in a tin with duct tape (for ghetto factor). Used for fan control and has a DMM attached so I can see what voltage is applied.
DMM as in digital multimeter??
that blue thing is a pot. ?? wtf!! tiny!!

I'm a practical man and practical rhymes with logical not with fun ;)
first thing about practical is trying out new stuff and experimenting. sticking to something aint practical to me. oh... and btw... the two large caps in the smps... plz dont touch their ends... you will burn with shock... after you open the case take a metal sheet and place it so that their ends touch the metal sheet. they will discharge with a sound. like phut.
 
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MohawkAngel

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DMM as in digital multimeter??
that blue thing is a pit. ?? wtf!! LOL


first thing about practical is trying out new stuff and experimenting. sticking to something aint practical to me. oh... and btw... the two large caps in the smps... plz dont touch their ends... you will burn with shock... after you open the case take a metal sheet and place it so that their ends touch the metal sheet. they will discharge with a sound. like phut.

Don't need to do that I leave the wire pin between the green and black one on the main plug and when disconnected from wall outlet this pin that I use to start the psu also makes the remaining current leaves the condenser. If I decided to remove the pin prior to unplugging the wall outlet then I would have to discharge the condensers. With it still in place it do the discharging job.
BTW i'm repairing computers since 1997 so don't worry for me and if I need more advices I call my bro who is an engineer in Research and Development section for Honeywell electronics ;)

Just a parenthesis...I used to be a car mechanic so when we have a car problem in the family it's not long we repair it :p Car mechanic and electronic engineer working as a team :toast:
 

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That is a potentiometer in a tin with duct tape (for ghetto factor). Used for fan control and has a DMM attached so I can see what voltage is applied.

Aren't you a little concerned about the pot dissipating more than it's rated power? Although I don't know the exact pot your using the ones I have like it are only good for <1W.
 

sneekypeet

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Aren't you a little concerned about the pot dissipating more than it's rated power? Although I don't know the exact pot your using the ones I have like it are only good for <1W.

For what I need it needs to be able to set a 9.5V input to 7.5, then just run as close to 12V as possible (reading is 11.92V). For my needs it seems to work fine. I was actually worried the power draw might be too much, but nothing warmed up durring the 2-3 hours I ran it last.
 

de.das.dude

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Don't need to do that I leave the wire pin between the green and black one on the main plug and when disconnected from wall outlet this pin that I use to start the psu also makes the remaining current leaves the condenser. If I decided to remove the pin prior to unplugging the wall outlet then I would have to discharge the condensers. With it still in place it do the discharging job.
BTW i'm repairing computers since 1997 so don't worry for me and if I need more advices I call my bro who is an engineer in Research and Development section for Honeywell electronics ;)

Just a parenthesis...I used to be a car mechanic so when we have a car problem in the family it's not long we repair it :p Car mechanic and electronic engineer working as a team :toast:

hey nice trick with the green wires.
 

MohawkAngel

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Yep. If you ever did that with a psu still plugged on the mobo you could see that few seconds after you shutted down the switch on the psu with all wires still plugged there is current left. Just after you put the psu switch at OFF push on your Power button on your case you gonna see that the fans are giving a little kick ot start. Then its discharged...same principle i'm doing with the green pin since its the green pin that is the main trigger for starting a psu.
 
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this is a good thing to do... I always discharge my PSU anytime I flip off the switch in the back. I've seen people ruin hardware b/c they dive right in as soon as the switch is flipped.
 

de.das.dude

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Yep. If you ever did that with a psu still plugged on the mobo you could see that few seconds after you shutted down the switch on the psu with all wires still plugged there is current left. Just after you put the psu switch at OFF push on your Power button on your case you gonna see that the fans are giving a little kick ot start. Then its discharged...same principle i'm doing with the green pin since its the green pin that is the main trigger for starting a psu.

yeah, especially with mobos with indication LEDs. its easier that way. but my old ECS one didnt have one so i relied on luck.
 

MohawkAngel

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Some boards like mine with a DEL as soon as the psu shut down it shut down the del but there is still power in the psu itself that why i do the PUSH POWER BUTTON trick to finish discharging the psu
 
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Thought I'd show off some handy work with a piece of crap router that kept dropping its connection every 10 to 12 minutes. Using scrap metal from work and an old spare fan from a box at work so the whole mod was free.





 
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Excellent :) cant belive this threads still running i posted this back in march 2008,

Good to see people are being creative with diy.

Beertintedgoggles thats a great free mod.
 
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Nice work so if the system works fine then do it now with a good router and make a full box :)

The router works perfectly now at my friends place who pays one set price for electricity so I have my folding rigs set up at his place. I've thought about putting a router in a cigar box, might see what I can get my hands on.
 
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