Oven Mode cook my card O_O

[eidairaman1]

Voltage issues from looks of it. Just stop wasting money on old hardware and save it for a new 700 series card...

 

[Sasqui]

regarding the ECS card, is it possible they bought the caps from a supplier that was lying? on a related note, do you all remember the story of the counterfeit kingston SD cards that were coming out of kingston's very own factory? or when some supplier was sending cardboard heatsinks inside retail intel cpus to newegg?

as for these artifacts/baking, maybe i should try?

the lines stay in the same spot based on resolution (minus little wiggling artifacts like the black spots on the 5th pic)

i was thinking 1 vram chip went bad, but could it actually be the core? i also just got a new idea when reading this thread, if i start bending the pcb, do you think the artifacts will change position?

it's a 4870x2 that died while playing limbo (very light gpu usage) last june, it was about an hour into the game, suddenly there was a light flicker & the whole system froze, i restart, continue playing, freezes again after a couple min, then i start seeing the artifacts every other restart, eventually all restarts have the artifacts

originally i thought i damaged it a few days earlier when i was changing cases, since i killed an x800xtpe after handling it, same symptom of bsod when the driver loads, minus artifacts (i switched cases on 2 comps so both cards were handled by me on the same day, 4870x2 is reference, x800xtpe has a zalman vf900-cu with its ram sinks)

i suppose it's still a possible coincidence that the 4870x2 had a natural failure, it's been in use since september 2008, target ~90degrees

Are you seeing that on an analog monitor?

 

[nunomoreira10]

did you baked the card upside down
the gravity should have kept the components in place, not the other way around
i think its a bit too late for your card..

 

[Frick]

did you baked the card upside down
the gravity should have kept the components in place, not the other way around
i think its a bit too late for your card..

Lots of cards have components on both sides.

 

[nunomoreira10]

Lots of cards have components on both sides.

yes, but small ones, not capacitors like that
the standard for the pci space doest allow the back side to go more then a few mm out

 

[trodas]

The caps did not failed because of wrong orientation, but because they cannot take the heat, that it is. The components do fall off because of gravity. Hardly can be done anything about it going it with this method. I would always desolder caps first, before baking the card in oven...
Tiger already proposed and tried much simpler method - just heat up in over to 200+°C a serious piece of metal and then place it on the BGA ram chip or the core and wait till it cool down. That looks much more safer to me...

Lots of cards have components on both sides.

I would say that MOST cards have components on both sides. Last card that had clean back plate was nVidia Vanta LT, IIRC

 

[nunomoreira10]

The caps did not failed because of wrong orientation, but because they cannot take the heat, that it is. The components do fall off because of gravity. Hardly can be done anything about it going it with this method. I would always desolder caps first, before baking the card in oven...
Tiger already proposed and tried much simpler method - just heat up in over to 200+°C a serious piece of metal and then place it on the BGA ram chip or the core and wait till it cool down. That looks much more safer to me...





I would say that MOST cards have components on both sides. Last card that had clean back plate was nVidia Vanta LT, IIRC

did not meant to criticize,
saw just the picture with the capacitor in one piece out and the other chips and assume wrong, my mistake.
the cooper method seem like a good idea.

 

[Mohammed]

Hi man


I have read your post and threads. Therefore, I have some questions. explain in simply, please. I am new in this field.

1- still not got this, How do you know the compatibility ( capacitors ) ? there is code on capacitors. I can't read that number or what refer for. I need to buy those brand Samxon ( as I see you have good experiment with this brand )


2- What is equipment did you use to soldering ceramic capacitors?


3- Did ceramic capacitors has negative (-) or positive (+) positions too ? if yes, how you know.



I have found this equipment in E-bay . Any advice...

- Soldering Iron
- De-Soldering Pump
- Rosin ( as i see it's not important, but I like to keep it looks good as you do )
- De-Soldering Braid
- Solder Wire

4- Is this good to start work?

Thanks

 

[trodas]

1) I decide what it best to use (basicaly there is no "compatibility" - the better capacitor you can get, the better results - only limits are physical size and availability) and then I use it. You need to buy Nichicon polymer caps, witch serial numbers I will give you, so you cannot go it wrong It is easy, but ATM you did not confirmed even the capacitors diameter, so I have no idea if you are even willing to do it, so... make up your mind

2) For ceramic caps you need TWO (one for each end or the cap and hand) classic heat-up solders, I use two 40W ones, like these:
http://www.elektro-hofman.cz/cz-detail-875093-pajka-zd-72-40w.html
You sure find something like that in USA too.

3) No, ceramic caps (also metalic caps) does not have anode (+) or cathode (-) and you can orientate them as you wish. Do NOT (ever) try to mistake the position on tantal cap (they like to ignite, tought the new ones are claimed that they did not do it, but... you trust them? I don't...) or polymer (explosion) or electrolyte (leaking, possible explosion). Even bad cap (read - cap from questionable sources) could do this:
http://s21.postimg.org/wpc98bbxj/asus_mobo_bad_caps.jpg
(user Random Murderer from this forum claim that this is not a result of lighting strike, but only bad cap that exploded...)
....so, carefully there...

Choosen components for soldering - you need two soldering irons just for the ceramics, what you picked looks good, but you need two of them. There is no good power iron for soldering the caps, tough... and no, the 40W one cannot take it. I use 75W or scaled down a bit 100W version (see the mods I done to it to ehnance the soldering by adding poor contacts to lower the power) ...
De-Soldering Pump - useless, you will only damage the heated PCB with it. The dental pick method is 100x safer and better and easier. And - no risc! Recently I come to conclusion (after breaking few of them), that pushing it back it done now by small stick of wood, pushing against from the sharp poing, not pulling it back - then it broke, mostly, when there are problem in the hole and the hole is too tight....
De-Soldering Braid - also useless IMHO, as the dental pick is much better.
Solder Wire - okay.

 

[kn00tcn]

Are you seeing that on an analog monitor?

that's a funny one... DVI of course, along with eidairaman1 & Sliver Krunk, what are you guys thinking

i'm going to get a 290 or 280x, i'm not selling a broken 4870x2 (its fan has been starting to loosen for much longer anyway), it's hardly a voltage issue as nothing has changed, it's most obviously physical damage that happened while playing a game since the same hardware with the same settings & same drivers has been running for a long time... until last june when it happened

even if the card worked fine, the performance on new demanding games was lacking, the drivers halted in spring 2012, there's no CCC with 3d settings profiles, no dx11, basically it reached end of life & my planned upgrade vicinity, but it happened to die half a year prematurely