[UPDATED] Reassuringly expensive Palit GTX 1080 gloriously kicks the bucket!

[qubit]

On my work ThinkPad, a quick press of the power button puts the computer into sleep mode.

In Windows 7, the settings are under "Control Panel > Power Options > Choose what the power buttons do".

Yes, laptops are different, that's right. Windows can tell what it's installed on and adjusts the default configuration accordingly. On a desktop it always defaults to a controlled shutdown.

 

[GhostRyder]

Odd to say the least but it happens, just means you were unlucky in the selection process. As long as the next one does not have another issue then it was just a fluke, but if another one flops then I would suggest swapping brands.

 

[qubit]

Odd to say the least but it happens, just means you were unlucky in the selection process. As long as the next one does not have another issue then it was just a fluke, but if another one flops then I would suggest swapping brands.

Agree completely. Anything can fail once.

 

[Beastie]

My Palit 980ti is still flogging away quite happily.

 

[qubit]

I've sent the card off to Scan now, so I'll let you know what happens next in a couple of weeks.

I should just get a working replacement of the same model with a different serial number - yes I took a photo and it's on the original product box, too.

 

[Dbiggs9]

I lost a EVGA GTX770,680SC,660ti in the last year all under warranty but I didn't rma them.

 

[thesmokingman]

I try to play a YouTube video which triggers a blank picture and the fans spin up to maximum (really noisy!) and stay there.

I was therefore able to shut down the PC properly with a momentary press of the power switch. This avoids hurting Windows with a hard reset or power outage.

Stay tuned for the next episode in this continuing saga...

That's not a dead card, that's a card suffering from hw acceleration issues.

I've sent the card off to Scan now, so I'll let you know what happens next in a couple of weeks.

I should just get a working replacement of the same model with a different serial number - yes I took a photo and it's on the original product box, too.

lol, too bad I didn't see this thread till now. FYI in most cases its an easy fix. Also, there's a specific driver that was issued for cards that displayed this problem. Another way is to use RTSS to control hw acceleration and imo this is the best way to do it.

 

[eidairaman1]

That's not a dead card, that's a card suffering from hw acceleration issues.

Thus a dead card

 

[thesmokingman]

Thus a dead card

Wrong.

These issues have plagued green and red cards for years. They come and go over time.

 

[eidairaman1]

Hm how strange my gf2 gts pro, r9700 pro aiw, mr9800, x1950 pro. Now 290 vaporx never exhibited these issues.

Wrong.

These issues have plagued green and red cards for years. They come and go over time.

 

[thesmokingman]

Hm how strange my gf2 gts pro, r9700 pro aiw, mr9800, x1950 pro. Now 290 vaporx never exhibited these issues.

Oh great here we go with the troll, mine never did it therefor it doesn't exist?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1265543/the-amd-how-to-thread/280#post_20021232

 

[eidairaman1]

Oh great here we go with the troll, mine never did it therefor it doesn't exist?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1265543/the-amd-how-to-thread/280#post_20021232

I'm just reporting I never had an issue is all but @qubit did the best thing he could of done. Fyi I wasn't trolling either. You're the one getting all pissy here bucko.

btw re-read his issue. That seems to be chip and memory related big time, thus it is dying and dead

https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/...-gtx-1080-gloriously-kicks-the-bucket.229429/

 

[qubit]

That's not a dead card, that's a card suffering from hw acceleration issues.

Of course it's a dead card, I can't even get a BIOS picture out of it now and the fault has gone hard. Did you not read my OP properly, or did you just make some wild assumption?

The card is now completely useless, therefore it's dead. The fact that it still has some residual functionality in that it still allows Windows to boot is irrelevant. The fact that the trigger for failure appears to be the switch to 3D clocks is also irrelevant - it's still dead now.

lol, too bad I didn't see this thread till now. FYI in most cases its an easy fix. Also, there's a specific driver that was issued for cards that displayed this problem. Another way is to use RTSS to control hw acceleration and imo this is the best way to do it.

Ok, let's say the card still gave a picture on the desktop, but didn't work in 3D mode, do you actually think it's reasonable to be stuck to some specific driver version or rely on some third party app to work around a hardware fault with the card - especially when only three months old and still under warranty? There's so much fail with your suggestion that I don't know where to begin.

In the end, you come off all cocky like I've done something stupid, but it's actually you who doesn't have a clue about what he's talking about.

I'm with @eidairaman1 here and you should think carefully before calling established members trolls just because you don't agree with them. Debate, don't slander.

 

[ensabrenoir]

I lost a EVGA GTX770,680SC,660ti in the last year all under warranty but I didn't rma them.

.....

 

[eidairaman1]

Of course it's a dead card, I can't even get a BIOS picture out of it now and the fault has gone hard. Did you not read my OP properly, or did you just make some wild assumption?

The card is now completely useless, therefore it's dead. The fact that it still has some residual functionality in that it still allows Windows to boot is irrelevant. The fact that the trigger for failure appears to be the switch to 3D clocks is also irrelevant - it's still dead now.


Ok, let's say the card still gave a picture on the desktop, but didn't work in 3D mode, do you actually think it's reasonable to be stuck to some specific driver version or rely on some third party app to work around a hardware fault with the card - especially when only three months old and still under warranty? There's so much fail with your suggestion that I don't know where to begin.

In the end, you come off all cocky like I've done something stupid, but it's actually you who doesn't have a clue about what he's talking about.

I'm with @eidairaman1 here and you should think carefully before calling established members trolls just because you don't agree with them. Debate, don't slander.

He should have picked his words more wisely. He haven't a clue how long I've been doing this for.

 

[qubit]

He should have picked his words more wisely. He haven't a clue how long I've been doing this for.

+1 It gets embarrassing don't it? It's more of an attitude thing here with him though. I see that he's seen my reply to him and gone very quiet...

Thinking about it, I think I should just flash the BIOS to fix my broken hardware like you advise in your siggy...

 

[eidairaman1]

+1 It gets embarrassing don't it? It's more of an attitude thing here with him though. I see that he's seen my reply to him and gone very quiet...

Thinking about it, I think I should just flash the BIOS to fix my broken hardware like you advise in your siggy...

Lmao. The amount of times I seen those asking for help in a panic mode trying to fix or modify their cards and wind up bricking them made me write this.

 

[CAPSLOCKSTUCK]

i hope you baked it "just in case" before you sent it back...........

 

[thesmokingman]

Of course it's a dead card, I can't even get a BIOS picture out of it now and the fault has gone hard. Did you not read my OP properly, or did you just make some wild assumption?

The card is now completely useless, therefore it's dead. The fact that it still has some residual functionality in that it still allows Windows to boot is irrelevant. The fact that the trigger for failure appears to be the switch to 3D clocks is also irrelevant - it's still dead now.


Ok, let's say the card still gave a picture on the desktop, but didn't work in 3D mode, do you actually think it's reasonable to be stuck to some specific driver version or rely on some third party app to work around a hardware fault with the card - especially when only three months old and still under warranty? There's so much fail with your suggestion that I don't know where to begin.

In the end, you come off all cocky like I've done something stupid, but it's actually you who doesn't have a clue about what he's talking about.

I'm with @eidairaman1 here and you should think carefully before calling established members trolls just because you don't agree with them. Debate, don't slander.

Your card was suffering from what looked liked classic hw acceleration issues to me. You kept on using the card as is for weeks. Then it finally died.

I explained what the issue was or could have been. The current *.33 driver is very susceptible to hw acceleration however the *.48 hotfix breaks nvenc encoding so its best to move back to the *.19. But if for whatever reason one didn't swap drivers, it's actually an easy fix. As I wrote above to the hw acceleration denier, these issues crop up from time to time and driver to driver. It was a pretty big problem for a while on AMD side a couple years back but it most definitely happens on Nvidia too.

The section under RTSS would have helped you if you had seen if earlier.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1265543/the-amd-how-to-thread

 

[eidairaman1]

Your card was suffering from what looked liked classic hw acceleration issues to me. You kept on using the card as is for weeks. Then it finally died.

I explained what the issue was or could have been. The current *.33 driver is very susceptible to hw acceleration however the *.48 hotfix breaks nvenc encoding so its best to move back to the *.19. But if for whatever reason one didn't swap drivers, it's actually an easy fix. As I wrote above to the hw acceleration denier, these issues crop up from time to time and driver to driver. It was a pretty big problem for a while on AMD side a couple years back but it most definitely happens on Nvidia too.

The section under RTSS would have helped you if you had seen if earlier.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1265543/the-amd-how-to-thread

HWG again with the "Detonator" Drivers

 

[qubit]

Your card was suffering from what looked liked classic hw acceleration issues to me. You kept on using the card as is for weeks. Then it finally died.

I explained what the issue was or could have been. The current *.33 driver is very susceptible to hw acceleration however the *.48 hotfix breaks nvenc encoding so its best to move back to the *.19. But if for whatever reason one didn't swap drivers, it's actually an easy fix. As I wrote above to the hw acceleration denier, these issues crop up from time to time and driver to driver. It was a pretty big problem for a while on AMD side a couple years back but it most definitely happens on Nvidia too.

The section under RTSS would have helped you if you had seen if earlier.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1265543/the-amd-how-to-thread

I suspect we may have had a possible misunderstanding.

Are you saying that the driver itself killed the card? Also, I always installed the latest WHQL driver (never a beta or hotfix) the moment it came out, so if the driver, then several versions would have had the same fault in that three month period.
I agree that switching to 3D mode / clocks appeared to be the trigger. To be honest, I can't remember all the symptoms I saw now and all the situations, which weren't all that often, but I don't think it ever bombed out when playing a game. This might just be because I run the 3D power setting in Adaptive mode by default which saves on power (and noise on older cards that weren't so quiet) and have it switch to Max Performance for each game.

It still seems to me like the core reason was faulty hardware though. Do you have a link to a news article or forum post about this? I'm quite curious to learn more about this now.

Everyone: and in other news, Scan have emailed me to say that the card has been tested and a replacement is on the way, so it shouldn't be long now. Seeing as they only received the card yesterday, this is a really fast response and great service so far.

 

[EarthDog]

This might just be because I run the 3D power setting in Adaptive mode by default which saves on power (and noise on older cards that weren't so quiet) and have it switch to Max Performance for each game.

Side note, this is the same thing.

Adaptive will get the same performance on the card as Max. The only difference is adaptive will lower clocks/voltage on idle. So, leave it on adaptive.. may save you from creating profiles for titles (as game IQ should be adjusted in game wherever possible).

 

[qubit]

Side note, this is the same thing.

Adaptive will get the same performance on the card as Max. The only difference is adaptive will lower clocks/voltage on idle. So, leave it on adaptive.. may save you from creating profiles for titles (as game IQ should be adjusted in game wherever possible).

Well, that's interesting, because on my GTX 580 and GTX 780 Ti I noticed that the framerate tended to be higher with it set to max performance. It didn't seem to be quite so clear cut with the 1080 when I did a quick test, but I didn't test it extensively.

I'll test it further when I get my replacement card and let you know how I get on.

 

[EarthDog]

Yeah, it should ramp all the way up on adaptive... not only in idle does adaptive work. But if it needs it, the full clock rate should be there. I always flip it to max performance as I hear there are occasionally hitches if the clock swaps are drastic...

 

[revin]

a replacement is on the way

This is Awesome news !!! Finger's crossed for a trouble free card of BaddAzz proportions