Should i make the jump?

[MERCURY]

is it safe to say i can just get a 144hz monitor without the care for those technology if i were to go for 1080Ti?

No. Vertical tearing will still occur. With a 1080 Ti you will use Fast sync because there is no worries of going under the monitor refresh rate. But don't worry, Fast sync is not a monitor specific thing. It is in your nVidia Control Panel and works with any monitor.

As for that monitor, it has great reviews and 100hz is more than enough. From 60hz to 100hz, there is a noticeable difference, but not from 100hz to 144hz. Especially if you use Fast sync.

Hope this helps.

 

[Beastie]

Sorry for being kinda retarded but is it safe to say i can just get a 144hz monitor without the care for those technology if i were to go for 1080Ti?

1080ti is a beast of a card so with most current games you shoud be fine.

But if you can find a gsync monitor which is at a similar or only slightly higher price to non-gsync monitor, it will be useful with some games at max settings now. And likely with more games in the future as eyecandy becomes ever more demanding.

 

[ERazer]

Sorry for being kinda retarded but is it safe to say i can just get a 144hz monitor without the care for those technology if i were to go for 1080Ti?

EDIT: just a few side questions i wanna ask you sweet folks based on your own experience. I am currently viewing 1440P at 27inch and it seems like the best spot in terms of PPI. So my question is

1. Does anyone have any experience with a 34inch on 2560X1080 resolution? Im currently looking into a local monitor brand https://prismplus.sg/x340/ which runs in two hz and resolution.
(3440X1440 @ 100Hz or 2560X1080 @ 144hz) P.S The monitor comes with Freesync

2. 144Hz vs 100hz. Any noticeable difference for people with such monitor? Like if i were to really stare hard with my naked eyes without software.

EDIT 2: The monitor is called Microboard in Amazon
Link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5DVR94/?tag=tec06d-20

1. 2560x1080 NO! ill fonts are enlarged and weird, Freesync is for AMD is a plus if you "ever" switch.

2. I have both and i can't tell while 60hz vs 100+ its night and day just my personal experienced.

Downside of 3440X1440 is the ratio, some AAA game dont natively support it.

Plus side dont have to put up with bezels like with multiple monitor setups.

 

[Beastie]

144Hz vs 100hz. Any noticeable difference for people with such monitor? Like if i were to really stare hard with my naked eyes without software.

Not very much but the difference is definitely there.

If you go from 60hz to 100hz the difference is obvious, 100 to 144 is a bit more buttery smooth.

 

[Kanan]

Just received a confirmation on my ram sticks coming this week. Can't wait for them to arrive.

Do we have any expert here? Are there really a huge difference between having FreeSync/Gsync VS standard 144hz refresh rate? I mean if a monitor that can perform 144hz, it's equivalent to having those Free/G sync stuff right?

Go for Gsync with ULMB, strictly. ULMB is a absolutely fantastic feature that provides a much better image quality. Only Gsync monitors have it, but ULMB needs to be exclusively activated (which means Gsync is off) - ULMB gives you image clarity comparable to CRT monitors, which means the image has no more motion blur.

 

[Komshija]

I voted for the upgrade since you have 1440p monitor. If you had 1080p monitor, an upgrade to 1080 Ti wouldn't be very wise.
However, personally, I would wait for 2-3 months and build a completely new system based around Ryzen 7 1700X, X370 MOBO, regular GTX 1080, 16 GB RAM, 240 SSD + 1-2 TB 7200 RPM HDD and good 650 W PSU.

 

[Agility]

I voted for the upgrade since you have 1440p monitor. If you had 1080p monitor, an upgrade to 1080 Ti wouldn't be very wise.
However, personally, I would wait for 2-3 months and build a completely new system based around Ryzen 7 1700X, X370 MOBO, regular GTX 1080, 16 GB RAM, 240 SSD + 1-2 TB 7200 RPM HDD and good 650 W PSU.

Too late.. my new rams are coming this friday.

Not very much but the difference is definitely there.

If you go from 60hz to 100hz the difference is obvious, 100 to 144 is a bit more buttery smooth.

I see.. Btw what's your take on the ratio between Resolution : Screen size? Like i do know running 1080P on a 27inch is horrendously ugly.

 

[Beastie]

what's your take on the ratio between Resolution : Screen size? Like i do know running 1080P on a 27inch is horrendously ugly.

I'm happy with 27" at 1440p.

Some people prefer 24" but you need to have the screen right in front of you or use scaling for text.

It largely depends on how close you will position the screen I guess.

 

[Vario]

I have a 25" 1440P, kind of hard to read text, I set the font to 150%, now its about the same as a 1080P 23.8" that I had previously. However, you don't need much anti aliasing setting because the pixel density is higher, so images look better than the 27, and with a 25" you can have the screen closer to you for gaming and still quickly scan the corners with your peripheral vision. You'd have to set the 27 further back, which would probably offset the size benefits of the larger screen, take up more desk space, require a larger desk. A lot of it depends on what games you play, if you are playing an eye candy single player game like skyrim and you want to be immersed get a larger monitor, if you are playing competitive FPS a smaller monitor is better.

 

[Agility]

Hello Guys,

As mentioned, my ram came in today. However i'm having issues with it running at its rated speed.

My new rams is https://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-2133c9d-16gxh



EDIT: Added in CPU Overclocked settings

EDIT2 : Great, now my compute won't enter into Windows 10 , consistantly in a loop of BSOD (IRQL NOT LESS OR EQUAL) or (INTERRUPT EXCEPTION NOT HANDLED) -> Everything went default and it worked.

EDIT3: Removed the settings to avoid confusion. See latest post

 

[Tsukiyomi91]

3 words: Get the beast.
a single GTX1080Ti will solve ALL your pixel pushing troubles while keeping itself cool & not throttling down a notch like most AMD cards. Problem now is which type of variant you'll be picking. Reference or aftermarket? Also, 1440p's optimal screen size is usually around 27 inch & bigger, but I would settle on 27 to be on the safe side.

 

[Agility]

3 words: Get the beast.
a single GTX1080Ti will solve ALL your pixel pushing troubles while keeping itself cool & not throttling down a notch like most AMD cards. Problem now is which type of variant you'll be picking. Reference or aftermarket? Also, 1440p's optimal screen size is usually around 27 inch & bigger, but I would settle on 27 to be on the safe side.

Been looking at the AORUS 1080Ti (Non-extreme) while also waiting for Palit to come out their 1080Ti GameRock Edition.

 

[Tsukiyomi91]

to say this, there's at least 10 aftermarket variants for the GTX1080Ti, which is gonna be quite difficult to pick. Most of the time, picking the reference card solves the GPU height clearance whether using a mATX casing or micro tower case. Aftermarket ones usually varies from $50 - $100 or more over the reference model's price tag.

 

[Agility]

I have managed to boot up my computer after resetting CMOS.

I then changed my ram timings from auto to 9-11-11-31 2T and voltages, leaving my CPU as default

Advanced Memory Settings
System Memory Multiplier (SPD): Auto (1333mhz)
Performance Enhance: Turbo -> Standard
DRAM Timing Selectable (SPD): Auto -> Quick

Channel A Timing settings: Auto -> CL9-11-11-31 2T
Channel B Timing settings: Auto -> CL9-11-11-31 2T

Advanced Voltage Settings
Category CPU
Multi-Steps Load-Line: Disabled -> Level 10
CPU Vcore: Auto -> 1.350V
QPI/VTT Voltage: Auto -> 1.200V
System Agent Voltage: Auto -> 1.005V

Category MCH/ICH
PCH Core: Auto -> Auto
CPU PLL: Auto -> 1.840V

Category DRAM
DRAM Voltage: Auto -> 1.600V
DRAM Vref: Auto
DRAM Termination: Auto
CH-A/B Data VRef: Auto
CH-A/B Addrses VRef: Auto

Will try to increase my multiplier, hoping i do not have to manually touch the BCLK which i have no experience in..

EDIT: I have tried a few configurations playing round my CPU speed or Ram Mhz. These are the settings that managed to go into Windows without BSOD. However, if i were to go 1800Mhz or 2133Mhz the computer will not even boot up.

(Assuming my BCLK is fixed at 100Mhz, voltage and ram settings as above)

System Memory Multiplier (SPD): 1333Mhz
CPU Clock Ratio: 34 / 35 / 36 / 37 / 38 / 39 / 40 /

System Memory Multiplier (SPD): 1600Mhz
CPU Multiplier: 34 / 35 / 36 / 37 / 38 / 39 / 40 /

Seems like hitting 41 and above regardless on 1333/1600mhz BSOD on windows. Did i hit a limit or something? Running Prime95 as we speak. Issues with my CPU or Mobo?

EDIT: System specs of previous stable ram vs new ram

Old
Processor: Intel Core i7 2600k 3.40Ghz @ 4.50Ghz
Memory: G.Skill RipjawsX DDR3 4GB X2 (Model F3-12800CL7Q-8GBXM) 1600Mhz

New
Processor: Intel Core i7 2600k 3.40Ghz @ 4.00Ghz
Memory: G.Skill RipjawsX DDR3 8GB X2 (Model F3-2133C9D-16GXH) 1600Mhz

 

[Aquinus]

And even Sandy Bridge fundamentally sucks, simply because of the way they axed overclocking support, unless you bought the top tier K processor.

Speak for yourself. My 3820 has held up great over the least 5 years.

 

[Agility]

Ok just a slight update.

After searching online and numerous trial and error, i have managed to boot my rams at the stated specs 2133mhz.

The bios was running the ram settings wrongly on the tRFC @ 28, which by default from AIDA64 to be 278. However, i have not been able to replicate my CPU to run at 4.5Ghz. I was able to run stable at 4.5ghz with the current voltage settings but am only able to run it at 4Ghz.

Will update accordingly if i am able to get past it.

If anyone has any ideas or recommendations to up my processor back to 4.5ghz feel free to help.

Status

CPU

Memory Settings

Voltage

MISC

 

[Aquinus]

2133 is a lot for regular SB and the higher density DIMMs might be making that even more apparent. I know that if I push the 2133Mhz in my machine up to 2400Mhz, it will run but, I can't overclock as well and I need to feed VTT and VCCSA more voltage. The VCCSA shouldn't matter for SB, it means a little more for SB-E but, bumping the VTT voltage to 1.15v might not be a bad option if running at 2133Mhz is unstable, you can probably push the VVT to 1.2v relatively safely. If your overclock is just limited regardless of the VVT voltage, I would just try to run at a lower frequency with tighter timings.

 

[Agility]

2133 is a lot for regular SB and the higher density DIMMs might be making that even more apparent. I know that if I push the 2133Mhz in my machine up to 2400Mhz, it will run but, I can't overclock as well and I need to feed VTT and VCCSA more voltage. The VCCSA shouldn't matter for SB, it means a little more for SB-E but, bumping the VTT voltage to 1.15v might not be a bad option if running at 2133Mhz is unstable, you can probably push the VVT to 1.2v relatively safely. If your overclock is just limited regardless of the VVT voltage, I would just try to run at a lower frequency with tighter timings.

Have run prime95 for the past 4hrs at that settings. I have tried lowering the frequency to 1866mhz and boot it at 4.5ghz but it just BSOD on me in windows. Not sure for 1.2V VTT. Will try it and update you. Thanks alot mate.

 

[Aquinus]

Have run prime95 for the past 4hrs at that settings. I have tried lowering the frequency to 1866mhz and boot it at 4.5ghz but it just BSOD on me in windows. Not sure for 1.2V VTT. Will try it and update you. Thanks alot mate.

You could also try setting the turbo power limit to something higher, like 125 watts from the 95 that auto sets. I usually set mine to 150 watts when I'm overclocked but, not trying to go over 4.4Ghz. I do different things to go over 4.4 because, I have to use the 125Mhz BCLK strap for that and it requires a ton of configuration to get stable and all power savings goes out the window so, I don't tend to use it.

My 3820 also needs at least 1.4v when I'm going 4.5Ghz or higher. 1.45-1.48v will get me up to about 4.65-4.7, and I need 1.5v for 4.9 which is shaky for stability. I don't like putting that much voltage through it though but, 32nm chips should handle 1.4v fine if it's adequately cooled.

 

[Agility]

Just a quick quesiton, is it worth getting 4.5ghz:1866mhz then 4.1ghz:2133mhz? Also does changing the turbo thing works? As i am running Prime95, it goes all the way up to 110w based on AIDA64 readings

 

[hat]

Speak for yourself. My 3820 has held up great over the least 5 years.

You misunderstand. Sandy Bridge is a great architecture performance wise. I just don't like the way Intel axed overclocking starting with Sandy Bridge by forcing you to buy the K series CPU and Z series motherboard. The motherboard I'm not too upset about because you've always needed a decent board for overclocking anyway, but at least you could do it with any chip!

Just a quick quesiton, is it worth getting 4.5ghz:1866mhz then 4.1ghz:2133mhz? Also does changing the turbo thing works? As i am running Prime95, it goes all the way up to 110w based on AIDA64 readings

Depends. If you do mostly CPU heavy tasks, like lots of encoding, then sure. For all around performance, no, do not sacrifice RAM speed for higher CPU clocks. Try to see how far you can go while keeping 2133MHz RAM.

 

[Agility]

You misunderstand. Sandy Bridge is a great architecture performance wise. I just don't like the way Intel axed overclocking starting with Sandy Bridge by forcing you to buy the K series CPU and Z series motherboard. The motherboard I'm not too upset about because you've always needed a decent board for overclocking anyway, but at least you could do it with any chip!



Depends. If you do mostly CPU heavy tasks, like lots of encoding, then sure. For all around performance, no, do not sacrifice RAM speed for higher CPU clocks. Try to see how far you can go while keeping 2133MHz RAM. I don't think changing the CPU speed would have much of an affect on RAM anyway as you're only changing the CPU multi anyway...

That was my thought when i installed my new rams, expecting it to perform at rated specs without me having to change anything voltage or cpu settings. But it just....won't.....stop bsod'ing

 

[hat]

You quoted me before my ninja edit

I guess pushing high clocks everywhere does take its toll. @Aquinus suggests raising VTT voltage, so try that. If you can't get it, I would probably just run 2133 RAM and 4.1GHz CPU. I wouldn't want to trade that RAM speed for the bump in CPU speed. 4.1GHz is pretty darn fast. If you're unsure, you can run some benchmarks and compare the two and see which comes out on top for you.

 

[Agility]

You quoted me before my ninja edit

I guess pushing high clocks everywhere does take its toll. @Aquinus suggests raising VTT voltage, so try that. If you can't get it, I would probably just run 2133 RAM and 4.1GHz CPU. I wouldn't want to trade that RAM speed for the bump in CPU speed. 4.1GHz is pretty darn fast. If you're unsure, you can run some benchmarks and compare the two and see which comes out on top for you.

Will try it, provided if i can even run it at 4.5ghz @ 1866mhz.

You could also try setting the turbo power limit to something higher, like 125 watts from the 95 that auto sets. I usually set mine to 150 watts when I'm overclocked but, not trying to go over 4.4Ghz. I do different things to go over 4.4 because, I have to use the 125Mhz BCLK strap for that and it requires a ton of configuration to get stable and all power savings goes out the window so, I don't tend to use it.

My 3820 also needs at least 1.4v when I'm going 4.5Ghz or higher. 1.45-1.48v will get me up to about 4.65-4.7, and I need 1.5v for 4.9 which is shaky for stability. I don't like putting that much voltage through it though but, 32nm chips should handle 1.4v fine if it's adequately cooled.

Just to check, currently my CPU runs at 70Degrees at heavy load. Is that good to go for higher clocks?

EDIT: Changed a few stuff as mentioned

Turbo Power limit to 100Watts and QPI/VTT Voltage to 1.2V. 4.2Ghz now

 

[Agility]

Ok sorry for the triple post, but here a few things. I have set Turbo Power Limit to 110Watts as the default instead of Auto. Running prime95 only on CPU Heavy stress test.

The changes are as follow

Stable clock at 4.1Ghz with Prime95 running in for 5hrs, which is my current settings
CPU VCore: 1.380V
Qpi/VTT: 1.100V

I have tried running it at 4.2ghz with the following settings and it allowed me to boot to windows, but fail Prime95 5minutes after running
CPU VCore: 1.450V
QPI/VTT: 1.200V

Am i doing anything wrong? @Aquinus