those of you with Liquid Metal TIM, did your temps increase after 2 years?

[R-T-B]

No it doesn't. Improper prep and/or application sure does though.

Gallium and copper... bleh. @lexluthermiester have at.

 

[lexluthermiester]

No it doesn't. Improper prep and/or application sure does though.

Gallium and copper... bleh. @lexluthermiester have at.

Proper prep is important, true. However, Copper does degrade as Gallium amalgamates with it. The process is slow, but does happen. Nickel plating is important for this reason as Nickel does not react well with Gallium without the involvement of strong acids or alloying.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Proper prep is important, true. However, Copper does degrade as Gallium amalgamates with it. The process is slow, but does happen. Nickel plating is important for this reason as Nickel does not react well with Gallium without the involvement of strong acids or alloying.

And again, not the point of this thread or the poll posted by the OP.

For the record, I tried LM and did not find it worthwhile. Consequently I don't use nor have I ever recommended it.

 

[R-T-B]

For the record, I tried LM and did not find it worthwhile. Consequently I don't use nor have I ever recommended it.

I think (short of say extreme OCing) we can agree to that. However OP specifically asked about LM...

 

[lexluthermiester]

I think (short of say extreme OCing) we can agree to that.

I think all three of us can agree on that.

However OP specifically asked about LM...

And specifically asked about a time-frame of use. Over two years the Galium in LM TIM's will degrade the Copper surface of a heatsink/heatblock to the point that heat transfer becomes problematic until the surface is treated and/or resurfaced.

The general rule with LM TIM's is no matter what the makers states, the laws of physic's apply. Gallium will destroy a bare Copper surface. Nickel-plating will remove that problem without degrading thermal performance.

 

[R-T-B]

Thanks. That's all I really wanted to make clear.

 

[biffzinker]

Gallium will destroy a bare Copper surface. Nickel-plating will remove that problem without degrading thermal performance.

Unless deep scratches through the nickel expose the copper. I tried scuffing the nickel plating to get the LM to stay put, it worked but was adhered to nickel.

 

[lexluthermiester]

Unless deep scratches through the nickel expose the copper.

True, but then you lose the benefit of the Nickel plating.

 

[Enterprise24]

For delidded CPU I found no different for long time.
For GPU my liquid pro dry after 1 year with 980 Ti. Temp increase by 20C
Try again with 1080 Ti and this time it dry in just 3 months. Temp increase by 20C also.

My GPU waterblock is pure copper so I think that is the reason why it dry so fast.

 

[lexluthermiester]

For delidded CPU I found no different for long time.
For GPU my liquid pro dry after 1 year with 980 Ti. Temp increase by 20C
Try again with 1080 Ti and this time it dry in just 3 months. Temp increase by 20C also.

My GPU waterblock is pure copper so I think that is the reason why it dry so fast.

Very likely exactly why.

 

[Mussels]

I havent kept my systems long enough to know, but i did find one that had to be re-applied as the TIM had shifted after a cooler re-install (this was a delidded chip, survey didnt specify)

 

[delshay]

Not I, said the frog.

Copper heatsinks need not apply, though. NIckel-plated only.

I have LM on my R9 Nano (copper vapour chamber). I don't think it's been 2 years more like 16 months. I had to re-apply it two times before this, but all is ok now. I tested it yesterday & temperature is very good. I did add a custom air vented PCI card slot to one of my other cards in another PCI slot to help the Nano draw in or exhaust air, which does have some effect because the Nano fan is not far off from the back of PC cases.

EDIT: Proof card has never been opened-up since this record breaking score on this page, but it will be taken apart again as I have new capacitors on order which I will be binning https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/the-fury-x-owners-club.214557/page-4,

it depends on whether or not the seal breaks with liquid metal. Like if you're a laptop user and u put liquid metal between your die and the heatsink of the laptop your temps probably increased as you jostled it, and there are gaps big enough for the LM to dry and become brittle.

if you just delidded it and then resealed the IHS on the die, then your temps are probably exactly the same.

Tend to agree with you on this one. Once applied never take it apart again unless you have a problem. Heatsink/IHS must be stable, ie no movement whatsoever this is why I leave the old glue on the CPU PCB, but remove all old glue from the IHS, if i'm not gluing CPU/IHS back together. Be aware what works for me may not work for others.

Note: I'm using Phobya LM Thermal Compound over all the others on the market. It's the way it bonds to the surface that's caught my attention.