New watercooling setup!

[exodusprime1337]

If you can swing the cost. I'd recommend an EK PE 360 Rad some flex tubing, a d5(mcp655) style pump and an ek block, or go for heatkiller as they're not to expensive. I've had amazing luck with all of these products and currently use them in my existing rig.

The d5 pumps last forever, and the ek rads dissipate a ridiculous amount of heat. Well worth the costs though they aren't all that expensive really .

 

[HUSKIE]

@OP That case same as mine.

 

[Basard]

@exodusprime1337 I've got the pump already, just need rad/block/tubing. I'm debating myself as to if I should go for the 420 rad up top, or a 360.... I don't really want to use 120mm fans. I'm almost tempted to just get two 280mm rads, but that seems kind of expensive.

 

[Solaris17]

Please for the love of god get yourself a drain valve.

Otherwise @exodusprime1337 has hit the nail imo love my EK kit with room to expand and mod

But seriously get a drain valve put a quick disconnect on it so you can put a length of tube on it later do yourself the favor

 

[Good3alz]

This is my setup for a 7820X @ 4.6ghz:

View attachment 124837


If you don't bleed it right it will make a rattling noise from the air bubbles. It's also much much much weaker than the $30 pump i posted.

It does look cleaner though, and it is pretty silent (once you get the air out of it).

If you have the space (I like going with smallest possible ATX) then I would build a proper loop with an MCP355 clone - you just can't beat the temps.

Your problem is your CPU block is the highest point.
For the win..burp it : (Microcenter)

Fyi, I had to change the size of the barbs on the Swiftech on mine to be smaller diameter.

Better yet, move your 120 rad on the back of your top front case fan, shorten the hose length. The radiator will be higher then your CPU. Any air gets in a CPU/pump, and is trapped in that pump.. you will fry that pump.

I have had to EDIT my post because of missing letters, different words I did not type. I'm using a PC not a phone with auto spelling / suggestions.
Why is this happening with the incorrect words/errors?

 

[phanbuey]

i actually fixed it by just putting a bleeder section on the fillport...

sorry for the glare - but it basically keeps it fed and i don't have to take the pump off to refil ever.

I don't want the rad in the back becuause of aesthetics and cooling (it's intaking cool air from the bottom right now, with push pull noctuas)

Amazon.com

 

[Basard]

Looks like I'll be plumbing a T into the bottom port of the res..... Seeing as there is only one hole on it.

I went ahead an ordered the Black Ice GTS 420 that PPCS had on sale for 45 bucks. So I can go ahead and stare at that for a couple weeks til I get the remaining tubing, fittings, and block. WTF is up with their website, I had to run a damn VPN just to get in yesterday.

 

[Basard]

Well, the radiator is in, and it is, in fact, new. Although the copper inside does look quite old.... It was advertised as a pallet that HW Labs found and gave to PPCS for a good price. The fin density (30 fpi) is insane on this thing. Should I fill it with vinegar or something?

I'm still looking for a cheap way to splice a drain into the output line of my res.... Anybody have a suggestion? Buying a T-fitting, valve and three more compression fittings seems excessive.

 

[Good3alz]

Well, the radiator is in, and it is, in fact, new. Although the copper inside does look quite old.... It was advertised as a pallet that HW Labs found and gave to PPCS for a good price. The fin density (30 fpi) is insane on this thing. Should I fill it with vinegar or something?

View attachment 126287

OHH... perdie!

Copper doesn't rust. Copper corrosion is green mold like (wet fuzzy) then changes color.
No point in vinegar. (Unless you SEE corrosion)


I'm concerned on the threads they 'look' rusty. is it metal - the barb collars on the tank?
If so, I would just buy a TAP like in a Tap & Die set.. from harbor freight and re tap the threads.. it is not worth introducing vinegar into the radiator.

Vinegar is an acid and you will need to neutralize the acid after use.. Use microwave hot vinegar.. shake the radiator for 5 minutes.. Rinse-look, repeat?
Neutralize by Baking Soda / warm/hot Tap Water. Rinse 3-4 times..
Flush under bath tub hot water, shaking draining, filling shaking draining.
Hair dryer RIGHT away.. get it hot, shake it.. ( it will get hot to touch.. you want to cook the water out .. evaporate it out the tank)

I have been doing Coleman Fuel tanks (Lantern- "Fount"). Vinegar on steel rust.. it flash rusts if you leave it 5 minutes without a rinse.. It has been a learning process. But a Fount, I can do the above then spray WD-40 in side, turning that WD-40 to coat the inside of the Fount.. The Coleman Fuel will deal with that slight bit of WD-40.
You can't WD-40 a rad.
Again, different metals.

Vinegar will change the color of copper to a dull. (but we are talking inside the Fount and your Rad.. (if you use it)




Most of the time the cooling pipes in the center are aluminum.
The tank is probably aluminum.
IF it is ALL copper.. that would be interesting.. might want to try to
'look' inside the tank to SEE those center tube endings.. to make sure they ARE Copper.
100% copper radiator might be heavier then aluminum one. Not doubting you, just saying... I dunno about the center tubes being copper.

If it is a copper aluminum mix, that explains ' old stock '. Bad mix of metals.
You will definitely need a anti corrosion solution.
I use this stuff CLICK HERE

Thermaltake UV Sensitive Pre-Mixed Coolant - Micro Center

Get it now! Find over 30,000 products at your local Micro Center, including the UV Sensitive Pre-Mixed Coolant 1000 ml - UV Green

www.microcenter.com

I would just Stick it under the tub and flush it out. If the barb collar soldered onto the tank, the opening with the threads ARE rusted.. I would just Tap it out ...home depot will figure out the thread, bring it with you and you will find someone to figure that out for you , unless you just eyeball and try a screw to fit.. then buy the tap for it.. tap it.. vacuum it.

As far as a drain plug You can drill and tap metal aluminum block/steel... screw in a drain.
you can sweat pipe (copper/brass/aluminum) / solder on a drain plug ... a rad tank.

* Radiator shops
* Machine shop.
* Do it yourself.

EDIT: IF you do go to Home Depot, check out the plumbing section for clear tubes as you can see my set up above a few posts that is Home Depot clear tubes, was on a bottom shelf opposite brass pipe/faucet repair section.
BRING YOUR BARBS WITH YOU!

 

[Vlada011]

Black Ice Nemesis GTS 360
Heatkiller D5 Tube + D5 WCP Speed Control
Heatkiller IV PRO - Black Copper

If you want quality parts to last long, to use them on few computers this is best available at the moment.
Except that give you best opportunity to change shape of loop, to switch from D5 to DDC Pump, to extend reservoir, it's not acrylic it's glass, massive and quality.
Heatkiller IV Pro CPU Block could be installed on Intel or AMD platform. If you buy for Intel and Switch to AMD you will need only mounting tool.
Nickel plating is excellent, no corrosion problems, CPU block is full metal - copper and black parts are Nickel platted Black.
That's serious durability and performance advantage compare to blocks with POM, Acrylic, etc...
Black Ice Nemesis GTS is best possible watercooling radiator on planet. It's thin but his performance difference compare to thick radiator GTX is so small to sacrifice space. D5 pumps with Speed Control are closer to original Laing made in Germany until 2009 then PWM versions.
This setup is enough for installation GPU later. With GPU temperatures will be OK, but to lowest possible later you will need second radiator.

This is mine setup for next platform because now I have Monoblock for this board and for next motherboard-CPU I don't want to pay more then CPU block.
And mine Poseidon have great temperatures and because of that I gave up from investing in full cover block for GTX1080Ti Strix.

Do it properly or don't build watercooling at all.
These are not Aliexpress parts made for show room RIGs full of RGB, etc and then for next PC you need everything new.
This is chosen to last to be cleaned several times, to give best performance and to look same after 2-3 years and main parts are Made in Germany.

 

[Basard]

@Good3alz This is the one: http://hardwarelabs.com/blackice/gts/gts-420/ The channels inside look to be copper, the threads and tank are both copper as well--scraped at them a bit to reveal copper goodness. The box says the structural parts are all brass--I'm assuming they are talking about the outside walls that hold the core.

I'm pretty sure I can get away with not tapping the threads, there are only a few specs of green on them.

There are a couple of spots inside the tank I can see that are also partially greened--probably about two square centimeters total. It looks like some fluid settled in the corner at some point in its life, maybe during the manufacturing process--flushing it out or something--that's where the corrosion is mostly concentrated.

Another interesting note that I discovered while handling it--if you slap the end, it hums like a tuning fork!!

@Vlada011 I just need block, fittings, and tubing now to complete the loop--and another fan for the rad.

I'm thinking (for a drain) of coming out of my res with a male to male, then a t-junction, 90 degrees off of the t-junction will be male to male to a ball valve that I can attach a cheap barb and tube. I'll come off straight from the t-junction to my CPU block, then up to the rad.

As for a CPU block, I was thinking of the XSPC Raystorm Pro. It's a bit cheaper than the Heatkiller, and performs almost as well. PLUS it comes with RGB! and a backplate. I like the looks of it also.

 

[phill]

Do your first custom loop and you'll never go back

My first custom loop was an amazing thing to do and I'll always use custom water over air in certain cases/builds. Go with a decent size tube (I use 7/16) with 1/2" barbs, no clamps on them just warm the tube, then when it cools it'll tighten itself on to it.
If you have spare hardware, make a test setup and try it, won't damage anything then

If you can, grab a triple rad as a minimum, get some fans your comfortable with with noise (otherwise fan controllers are amazing.. I prefer the basic ones, turn knob on front, speed up or down that simple...) get some proper, well known parts pumps rads etc otherwise you can be wasting money and go for it
Oh and as @Solaris17 mentioned, get a drain port and you'll save yourself so much time and hassles... I've a few bits and pieces to sell so if your over in the UK drop me a line if they are of any use

I've certainly enjoyed my builds with it

View attachment 849A1282.JPG

One of my personal favourite pics of hardware I own still
But anyways, hopefully something I've posted helps

 

[Basard]

Seems a little excessive for a 240 rad. The huge wood frame. What are those--8800's?

 

[phill]

Seems a little excessive for a 240 rad. The huge wood frame. What are those--8800's?

Well it was the easiest option I had whilst not ripping and damaging the case, I upgraded later to a 360 rad, was a lot better then After that I went a little on the OTT side of things... But still, I had great fun doing it all If you think that's a mess, you should see my X99 rig at the moment

The are EVGA 8800 GT's yes sir Wished I'd never got rid of them.. First pair of cards that broke the 82k in 3D Mark 01SE with a 775 QX9650 CPU I was happy until I found that loads of people where hitting 100k plus

 

[Basard]

@phill l Hey, If I had a garage, or basement, My entire case (hell, everything I own) would be made of 2x4's!

My friend had an 8800GT, I believe it was an evga. He ended up getting a Xigmatek Battle Axe cooler for it. The fan speed never adjusted according to temp with the stock cooler--it overheated and crashed all the time. Those were the days. Getting rid of them was the best thing you could have done. LOL, seriously though, they were good and innovative cards for the time. Too bad the 2900XT sucked so bad.

 

[HUSKIE]

I need to dig in picture of my first Waterloop here back 2008.

There was an aquarium waterpump old thermal take copper block. @phil I remember those 3 pc with loops..

There she is if I remembered I used antifreeze coolant..

 

[Basard]

Cool man. I'm not sure, but I think I was rockin an X800 AGP in an MSI K9MMV with a 4000+ AMD chip back then. No fancy cooling though.

Payday on Friday this week, so middle of next week it should be all together!!

 

[Basard]

I've gotta cart full of stuff ready to finish this build..... Just one last thing I'm wondering. I'm just going to get distilled water from Piggly Wiggly, what would be the best additive? I'm thinking this Mayhems Biocide Extreme and distilled water should be good enough, eh?

 

[Basard]

Good news! Parts are coming in tomorrow AND Piggly Wiggly has distiled water on sale for 80 cents a gallon!

 

[Basard]

Done! (sort of)

I need to purchase some fans for this thing. I knew going into this that the three Fractal fans that came with my case (900RPM) weren't going to be enough for this radiator--just enough to get the loop going. I had to stick one of my Silverstone fans on the 'back' of the radiator to clear the stupid IO shielding on my motherboard. My wife has a couple of 2000+ SP120 fans from Corsair, they are somewhat quiet at high RPM, definitely quieter than my Silverstones at 1500+ (of course they don't move nearly as much air).

As it stands now, I've shaved about 4-5c off my temps with the water. That's with the pump and fan speeds at a low setting. I've got a couple of HWiNFO screenshots of 12 hour load averages for reference:

Top screenshot is with the SST-HE01, Bottom is with the loop.

VRM temps went up a bit, but this Aorus Master is a savage when it comes to VRM cooling anyways, so no issue there.

And here is a crummy cellphone pic of the setup:

I probably should have gone with a shorter res.... Also, I have a spare Fractal fan (the white ones in the above pic) that I need to install in the front, had to take it out of the back. I also still have to install the RGB lighting for the CPU block. All in good time though, perhaps I'll get to a few of the nit-picks this weekend if I'm not too hammered.

Have a good one guys, and thanks for your inputs.

 

[John Naylor]

hello,
EK™ Vardar 120mm fans, cold air is paramount. a 360 AIO and those would be a cpu cooled.

EK-Furious Vardar FF5-120 (3000rpm)

EK-Vardar is the industrial grade high-static pressure computer cooling fan, designed and built primarily for highest-performance computer liquid cooling systems.Furious Vardar FF5-120 makes no compromise. It is the highest performing Vardar series fan!

www.ekwb.com

they do have 140mm fans too, 144cfm and

1. RPM doesn't chnage air temperature.

2. This isn't the 1990s with 30 fpi radiators. With todays 8 - 14 fpi rads, there is no need for 3000 rm fans, unless you want to annoy people in the next room with the noise. My system tops out at 850 rpm under furmark stress testing GPU temp = 39 C) , fans aren't even spinning as im typing this and in gaming it's 480 - 650 rpm tops.

 

[Basard]

@John Naylor This isn't the 90's and it is a 30 fpi radiator! http://hardwarelabs.com/blackice/gts/gts-420/

I do agree that there is no need for 3000 RPM fans, my Silverstones are annoying enough at just 1500, however, I should be able to run 1500 without much annoyance if I were to get a more civilized set of fans.