The Filthy, Rotten, Nasty, Helpdesk-Nightmare picture clubhouse

[hat]

I've only been able to find limited information. I have no idea how one would drain and re-fill one of these loops. In a custom water setup, there would be a way to do this, but in a closed system? Perhaps if I could remove it from the rest of the system and run the pump with a paperclipped power supply and a molex-3 pin adapter and stick one of the tubes into a cup of distilled water and let it suck on that until it was full... or perhaps I could just pour distilled water in one of the tubes until it was full and re-attach it. No idea how I would undo and redo the tubes, though.

Assuming I figure that out, would it be safe to run some white vinegar through it for a day or so? That should help clear up some corrosion. Not connected to the PC of course, just running vinegar though it to clear it up.

 

[Mussels]

i'd love to hear how that goes, as i've got a few older ones and i assume they'll go to crap one day

 

[lexluthermiester]

I've only been able to find limited information. I have no idea how one would drain and re-fill one of these loops. In a custom water setup, there would be a way to do this, but in a closed system? Perhaps if I could remove it from the rest of the system and run the pump with a paperclipped power supply and a molex-3 pin adapter and stick one of the tubes into a cup of distilled water and let it suck on that until it was full... or perhaps I could just pour distilled water in one of the tubes until it was full and re-attach it. No idea how I would undo and redo the tubes, though.

Assuming I figure that out, would it be safe to run some white vinegar through it for a day or so? That should help clear up some corrosion. Not connected to the PC of course, just running vinegar though it to clear it up.

You'd likely need to buy replacement tubing. Disassembly shouldn't be difficult with the right tools.

 

[hat]

From what I was able to gather, it looks like it uses 1/4" ID 3/8" OD tubing. Apparently, fittings for such tubing is very uncommon and hard to find... not that it matters anyway because whatever's currently on there may not be threaded to use such fittings, if at all, being a CLC. I was able to find, however, that one modder apparently just forced the aforementioned 1/4" ID 3/8" OD tubing onto the, erm, barbs, and left it at that... possibly "secured" it with zip ties? If I'm not mistaken, basic barbs and hose clamps used to be the standard before compression fittings.

I must admit, the idea of attempting this little project is growing on me. If all goes well, it beats falling back on a less powerful air cooler, or buying a new cooler and most likely a new case.

 

[dorsetknob]

From what I was able to gather, it looks like it uses 1/4" ID 3/8" OD tubing. Apparently, fittings for such tubing is very uncommon and hard to find..

No idea how I would undo and redo the tubes, though.

hacksaw the sucker bro

Copper Fuel lines for cars/light trucks are about the right size
A Auto Repair shop should have short lengths laying around of a car junk yard
just cut the CLC hose then insert some copper fuel line after flushing and refilling unit
Secure finished item and make watertight with jubilee clips.

Test and your done

 

[hat]

I'm not so sure about patching the hose like that. It would probably be better to get fresh new tubing if I can't figure a way to reuse the existing tubing.

 

[Grog6]

There's a fitting on the Radiator of my DeepCool Capitan 360 radiator; I figured on using it for access if I start to see chunks of crap in the clear tube in the center.
IDK if there's a fitting on the Corsair H100 or not.
It's still working good at ~6 years old; god knows what the goo inside looks like.

You can clean it out with anything you want, as long as you get it all out before you seal it back up, lol.

I'm thinking mild chlorox, not vinegar, to remove biofilms.

Circulating flowing water thru it for a while, draining, fill , and repeat a few times should remove all the residue.

Replacing the tubing is a good option, tho; I'd like to lengthen the tubing on mine by a foot at least.

 

[hat]

Would Clorox do anything for corrosion though?

 

[Grog6]

It will corrode stuff if you leave it in there; bleach is the same active radical as hydrochloric acid, but more gentle.

Bleach will remove the corrosion off of copper and aluminum, and it's a biocide.

You Really need to make sure you get it all out; but the same can be said for vinegar.

You could use bleach, then rinse with vinegar; that will neutralize everything.

Vinegar is used a lot in coffeemakers, because it's edible, and won't kill you; can't recommend Chlorox for anything drinkable, lol.

Formula 409 is great for cleaning bio-crap as well; Spraying the chassis fans with it and rinsing under hot water doesn't need scrubbing to get all the crap off the fins, and the bearings in fans are sealed if they're still good.

Any remaining acid or base will corrode everything badly; the corrosion inhibitors in the final coolant can deal with some small amount of residue, tho.

BTW; Never put pure distilled water in any clean cooling system; water is both an acid and a base, when it's pure.
There was a horror story on a car blog I used to read, where some of the guys put pure distilled water in a new, clean, Cobra engine, and it blew the hose off in the trailer overnight, by eating aluminum, and making H2 gas.
That takes a chemically clean aluminum surface, so we'll never see that, but I'll never forget it.

I use distilled water and Water Wetter, which includes anticorrosives, in my racecar, except in the winter.
Distilled water cools better than glycol, by a good 20%.

Cleaning the organic goo out of the skived fins on the waterblock is the important part; I've been thinking about it for a while.

 

[lexluthermiester]

From what I was able to gather, it looks like it uses 1/4" ID 3/8" OD tubing. Apparently, fittings for such tubing is very uncommon and hard to find... not that it matters anyway because whatever's currently on there may not be threaded to use such fittings, if at all, being a CLC. I was able to find, however, that one modder apparently just forced the aforementioned 1/4" ID 3/8" OD tubing onto the, erm, barbs, and left it at that... possibly "secured" it with zip ties? If I'm not mistaken, basic barbs and hose clamps used to be the standard before compression fittings.

I must admit, the idea of attempting this little project is growing on me. If all goes well, it beats falling back on a less powerful air cooler, or buying a new cooler and most likely a new case.

We're getting off topic, let's continue this in a new thread here;

Potential rebuild of a closed loop water cooler

In another thread the idea has been posed of rebuilding a retail sealed water cooling loop. See the discussion as it started in the following thread; https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/the-filthy-rotten-nasty-helpdesk-nightmare-picture-clubhouse.145287/post-4171940 From what I was able...

www.techpowerup.com

 

[phill]

Hi guys Bit of a background then some pics

I had been chatting to a friend at work about possible upgrades for their PC, suggested a graphics card and said you might possibly need a new PSU. They grabbed the card and then found that the current PSU was working ok for the moment with the 'new' card.
A few weeks had gone by and they'd said they'd noticed some noises from the PSU so I suggested the same PSU again and it got ordered in. I said bring in the tower and I can get the PSU installed and your SSD setup as they'd ordered one of those as well..
Well I was somewhat in shock when they brought in the PSU.. I thought'd it wouldn't quite be like this....

Before....



And here's some after pics....



I didn't think I had ever seen such a mess of a rig (and I thought mine was bad but) still, I hope a definite improvement

The first few pictures, more so with the temp in the bios, I noticed that the CPU cooler had been slightly bent and both fans where stopping from spinning. So glad I tested it before I took anything out of the case... I think in the after pics, there's a definite improvement on the temps
From what I think I'm correct in saying is that the 'screws' that hold the CPU cooler on to the motherboard they have been rounded off and I could not take off the CPU cooler to get some new paste on there so it's still running the same old stuff.. That said, with a near 15C drop in idle temp in the bios, I'm not really so worried.
The GPU was also tested as that was not long installed into the system, but with not voltage tweaking and such on the card running Heaven 4 for about 15 minutes, I couldn't see temps over 75C. Not bad I didn't think for a stock RX 580 Strix. It was all stock and automatic when it came to the fan profile. I was having a slight mess about with undervolting the card but as I was at work, I didn't spend very long doing it sadly.

My first time with the board and CPU combo, Gigabyte Z97X-UD3H and a Intel i5 4690k. I was able to get a CPU overclock sorted out by setting the vcore to fixed to about 1.15v. I was able to push the CPU with this voltage up to 4.50Ghz which seemed to work perfectly as you can see from the snipped screen shot in CB 15 I didn't have long with the system, but it seemed to be perfectly stable through CB 15 and 20 and with temps not hitting 60C under load, I'm rather pleased They had 16Gb of Crucial 1600Mhz DDR3, which was cas 11. Nothing bad or over the top brilliant, but the capacity was there so that was the main thing as I think the PC before had about 4Gb or possibly 8Gb in..

We installed Windows 10 on to a new SSD, CrucialBX 480 Gb, seems fairly decent and compared to the 1Tb Seagate SSHD, it's a load faster.

When I got it into work this morning, the person was amazed and very pleased with it I hope there's a good enough difference and that it passes the TPU test

 

[rtwjunkie]

@phill Awesome job cleaning that monster mess up!!!

 

[lexluthermiester]

That was nasty!

 

[biffzinker]

I'm still not convinced that's the same computer. It's way to clean in the after photos.

 

[micropage7]

Hi guys Bit of a background then some pics

I had been chatting to a friend at work about possible upgrades for their PC, suggested a graphics card and said you might possibly need a new PSU. They grabbed the card and then found that the current PSU was working ok for the moment with the 'new' card.
A few weeks had gone by and they'd said they'd noticed some noises from the PSU so I suggested the same PSU again and it got ordered in. I said bring in the tower and I can get the PSU installed and your SSD setup as they'd ordered one of those as well..
Well I was somewhat in shock when they brought in the PSU.. I thought'd it wouldn't quite be like this....

Before....

View attachment 139561 View attachment 139562 View attachment 139563 View attachment 139564 View attachment 139565 View attachment 139566View attachment 139567 View attachment 139588 View attachment 139568 View attachment 139569 View attachment 139570 View attachment 139571 View attachment 139572 View attachment 139573 View attachment 139574 View attachment 139575 View attachment 139576 View attachment 139577

And here's some after pics....

View attachment 139578 View attachment 139579 View attachment 139580 View attachment 139581 View attachment 139582 View attachment 139583 View attachment 139584 View attachment 139585 View attachment 139586 View attachment 139587

I didn't think I had ever seen such a mess of a rig (and I thought mine was bad but) still, I hope a definite improvement

The first few pictures, more so with the temp in the bios, I noticed that the CPU cooler had been slightly bent and both fans where stopping from spinning. So glad I tested it before I took anything out of the case... I think in the after pics, there's a definite improvement on the temps
From what I think I'm correct in saying is that the 'screws' that hold the CPU cooler on to the motherboard they have been rounded off and I could not take off the CPU cooler to get some new paste on there so it's still running the same old stuff.. That said, with a near 15C drop in idle temp in the bios, I'm not really so worried.
The GPU was also tested as that was not long installed into the system, but with not voltage tweaking and such on the card running Heaven 4 for about 15 minutes, I couldn't see temps over 75C. Not bad I didn't think for a stock RX 580 Strix. It was all stock and automatic when it came to the fan profile. I was having a slight mess about with undervolting the card but as I was at work, I didn't spend very long doing it sadly.

My first time with the board and CPU combo, Gigabyte Z97X-UD3H and a Intel i5 4690k. I was able to get a CPU overclock sorted out by setting the vcore to fixed to about 1.15v. I was able to push the CPU with this voltage up to 4.50Ghz which seemed to work perfectly as you can see from the snipped screen shot in CB 15 I didn't have long with the system, but it seemed to be perfectly stable through CB 15 and 20 and with temps not hitting 60C under load, I'm rather pleased They had 16Gb of Crucial 1600Mhz DDR3, which was cas 11. Nothing bad or over the top brilliant, but the capacity was there so that was the main thing as I think the PC before had about 4Gb or possibly 8Gb in..

We installed Windows 10 on to a new SSD, CrucialBX 480 Gb, seems fairly decent and compared to the 1Tb Seagate SSHD, it's a load faster.

When I got it into work this morning, the person was amazed and very pleased with it I hope there's a good enough difference and that it passes the TPU test

looks like not dust but sand

 

[Lorec]

Great job @phill
I mean, do You really need to be an enthusiast to clean up Your PC?
Its like we are janitors no less most of times I helped someone with their PC problem was pretty much cleaning it.
we do take care of our rigs, while others just use them.

 

[micropage7]

Just bought used heatsink from local online shop, i know i will clean it, but after i opened the box

Tadaaaaaa... Relic heatsink from 1972

 

[biffzinker]

Just bought used heatsink from local online shop, i know i will clean it, but after i opened the box

Tadaaaaaa... Relic heatsink from 1972
View attachment 139591

Did dust, and moist air do that?

 

[Jetster]

Looks like oxidation, good luck

 

[lexluthermiester]

Looks like oxidation, good luck

Should be easy to clean up though.

 

[Chomiq]

Just bought used heatsink from local online shop, i know i will clean it, but after i opened the box

Tadaaaaaa... Relic heatsink from 1972
View attachment 139591

Visit uni and ask them to run it through an ultrasonic cleaner.

As for the previous photos, I hope the OP had Darude Sandstorm playing in the background while cleaning.

 

[P4-630]

Just saw this......:

 

[micropage7]

Did dust, and moist air do that?

The dust is ok, but the lower left
It looks the previous user keep it somewhere and the water drops on that creating nasty oxidation
For today i just wanna clean it first

 

[Jetster]

Just saw this......:

View attachment 139597

That's how I do it

 

[phill]

@phill Awesome job cleaning that monster mess up!!!

looks like not dust but sand

Great job @phill
I mean, do You really need to be an enthusiast to clean up Your PC?
Its like we are janitors no less most of times I helped someone with their PC problem was pretty much cleaning it.
we do take care of our rigs, while others just use them.

Thanks for the nice comments guys.. I wasn't sure if anyone would notice the difference to be honest....
I do hate hardware abuse But either way the person is very happy with the outcome and was surprised to say the least when I brought it in It's surprising how people don't look at things as long as they work and yet us like car mechanics will probably take care of someone else hardware a little better than we might take care of our own...

Thanks again for the mentions guys I hope I do know what I'm doing at times

I'm still not convinced that's the same computer. It's way to clean in the after photos.

I had the exact same spares never used so I did a quick swap
So sorry, I can't believe I missed your post