The Filthy, Rotten, Nasty, Helpdesk-Nightmare picture clubhouse

Valantar · Dec 26, 2019

hat said:
So, remembering the USB case fan mod, I wired up a universal AC/DC adapter (never used the thing anyway) to a 1 to 2 fan adapter. At first I tried it with +12v only and it didn't work... seems the ground wire is also necessary, who knew? I got a spare 120mm case fan to spin. I patched up the wires with heat shrink tubing so they don't cross or anything (left them bare for the test with the fan) and plugged my h70 into the contraption. I can hear and feel the pump working. This was all done so I could run the pump outside of the case, like in the kitchen or the bathroom or something. Now I can cut the tubing off and cycle white vinegar through it for a while as originally planned. I'm not sure if I want to take the block itself apart... it might be better for cleaning than just cycling vinegar through it for a while, but, well... that might end badly...

Any ideas how long I should cycle vinegar through it? I'm hoping that the action of actually running vinegar through it with the pump will scrub away most of the corrosion and other bad stuff, if there is any. Also, should I use straight distilled water or should I use a water/antifreeze mixture or something?

Vinegar will dissolve corrosion and anything else sensitive to acids just by being there, but might not do anything about organic growth or other contamination. Also, you'll probably want to replace the vinegar multiple times to clear out gunk as it dissolves. If the fluid isn't clear, rinse and repeat. Then fill with distilled water, run for a bit, drain, and repeat until there's no vinegar smell left. Put some biocide and corrosion inhibitor in there, like a coolant mix from EK or alphacool or someone, both to prevent organic growth and the inevitable corrosion that comes from mixing metals (most AIOs have copper cold plates and aluminium radiators). With not disassembling things there's always the risk of gunk not coming out due to being physically stuck, but I wouldn't worry about that unless it has serious clogging issues.

Oh, and about needing the ground wire, you can't make a circuit with just one wire coming from the power source

Ground in a DC circuit is effectively "power out" to the "power in" of the +nV line.

hat · Dec 27, 2019

So, first image is that my freshly cleaned sink looked like after cutting the h70's lines and emptying the contents of the radiator... just by shaking it out. Second and third pics are the project currently in action, cycling distilled white vinegar.

It was a bitch getting the pump to pull the vinegar the first time. I actually already dumped it once because there was some chunks of stuff floating around. I sucked on the other end like a straw and it wasn't even flowing... the vinegar was kinda just moving around a little bit. It took some effort... Now, at least, if I shut the pump off and blow it out, it will pull the vinegar with little help. I'm guessing it should run like this for quite some time, at least 24 hours...? Is there anything else I should run through this?

Mussels · Dec 27, 2019

nasty af, totally belongs here

hat · Dec 27, 2019

Ah, one more question. The wall wart I wired that up to is 12v 500ma. I'm sure the pump usually runs on 12v, but I'm not sure if 500ma is the usual amperage for it. Should I try giving it more power?

lexluthermiester · Dec 27, 2019

hat said:
Ah, one more question. The wall wart I wired that up to is 12v 500ma. I'm sure the pump usually runs on 12v, but I'm not sure if 500ma is the usual amperage for it. Should I try giving it more power?

That pump needs more than 500ma, that's for sure. My guess is 1.5a minimum.. possibly more.

hat · Dec 27, 2019

I believe I have an 1000ma adapter I could bastardize if I have to. Alternatively, I have a float charger for car batteries that's 12v 1500ma that may work. Should I go through the trouble? The vinegar is indeed flowing, but if you guys think it could use more power I'll oblige.

lexluthermiester · Dec 27, 2019

hat said:
I believe I have an 1000ma adapter I could bastardize if I have to. Alternatively, I have a float charger for car batteries that's 12v 1500ma that may work. Should I go through the trouble? The vinegar is indeed flowing, but if you guys think it could use more power I'll oblige.

I wouldn't go to that extreme. If it's flowing, let it flow and let the vinegar do it's job.

hat · Dec 27, 2019

Seems fair. I thought maybe a stronger flow would help shake some crap loose, but the flowing vinegar should take care of it anyway...

silkstone · Dec 27, 2019

hat said:
So, first image is that my freshly cleaned sink looked like after cutting the h70's lines and emptying the contents of the radiator... just by shaking it out. Second and third pics are the project currently in action, cycling distilled white vinegar.

It was a bitch getting the pump to pull the vinegar the first time. I actually already dumped it once because there was some chunks of stuff floating around. I sucked on the other end like a straw and it wasn't even flowing... the vinegar was kinda just moving around a little bit. It took some effort... Now, at least, if I shut the pump off and blow it out, it will pull the vinegar with little help. I'm guessing it should run like this for quite some time, at least 24 hours...? Is there anything else I should run through this?

Wow, that is a lot of gunk. My aging CM Seidon has seen it's pump speed decreased by almost 1/2 and I think it could be due to the same reason. I got a replacement air cooler to put in that box, so I may cut mine open too.
How easy was it to secure the new lines and how tight are they? If i do manage to fix mine, I'd like to put it in a different rig and I wouldn't want it squirting fluid over all the internals.

Mussels · Dec 27, 2019

This makes me want to move my CPU back to air...
(Which would let my 240mm rad go on the GPU for better perf there, too)

hat · Dec 27, 2019

silkstone said:
Wow, that is a lot of gunk. My aging CM Seidon has seen it's pump speed decreased by almost 1/2 and I think it could be due to the same reason. I got a replacement air cooler to put in that box, so I may cut mine open too.
How easy was it to secure the new lines and how tight are they? If i do manage to fix mine, I'd like to put it in a different rig and I wouldn't want it squirting fluid over all the internals.

These are not standard water cooling lines. As I mentioned, I got this hose from a high up technician at work. It's roughly 1/4" ID, maybe a little smaller. In the case of the Corsair H70, that's what you want, 1/4" ID lines. Anyway, it was tough to get them on, probably because they're a touch smaller than 1/4". I used a torch (very low flame, as low as it could go without going out) to make the lines a little more malleable as I forced them over the barbs. I would hit the line with the torch first, push it over the barbs as far as I could, then hit the line again for a short time to push it over a little more. With some patience, I got the lines fully over the barbs. Not worried about it leaking... it's real tight.

The way I see it, this old Corsair h70 of mine was dead anyway without some TLC, so I had nothing to lose. If I'm successful in reviving it, I may see lower temps, and gain some experience with water cooling.

Mussels said:
This makes me want to move my CPU back to air...
(Which would let my 240mm rad go on the GPU for better perf there, too)

CLC units, like my h70, are closed loops, as the name implies. They are designed to be easy to install/use with no maintenance outside of the usual cleaning the computer of dust every so often... and they're also convenient to get into small spaces where a proper custom water loop wouldn't fit (at least, not easily). The obvious downside is you... can't do the maintenance that a water loop needs. You don't get to drain the loop and replace the coolant every so often. Well, obviously you can if you mutilate the thing like I have, but it's not made to be easy to do so.

The second downside to CLC units, as far as issues with the loop goes, is you often get a copper block and an aluminum rad. This mixture of metals invites galvanic corrosion, which was likely a contributing factor to all the gunk I found in my h70. They add corrosion inhibitors to the coolant, but that only has a useful life of so long before it no longer works.

In short, the no maintenance factor is a gift and a curse. Now I have to run vinegar through my poor old h70 for a while to hopefully give it a second lease on life.

silkstone · Dec 27, 2019

hat said:
These are not standard water cooling lines. As I mentioned, I got this hose from a high up technician at work. It's roughly 1/4" ID, maybe a little smaller. In the case of the Corsair H70, that's what you want, 1/4" ID lines. Anyway, it was tough to get them on, probably because they're a touch smaller than 1/4". I used a torch (very low flame, as low as it could go without going out) to make the lines a little more malleable as I forced them over the barbs. I would hit the line with the torch first, push it over the barbs as far as I could, then hit the line again for a short time to push it over a little more. With some patience, I got the lines fully over the barbs. Not worried about it leaking... it's real tight.

The way I see it, this old Corsair h70 of mine was dead anyway without some TLC, so I had nothing to lose. If I'm successful in reviving it, I may see lower temps, and gain some experience with water cooling.

CLC units, like my h70, are closed loops, as the name implies. They are designed to be easy to install/use with no maintenance outside of the usual cleaning the computer of dust every so often... and they're also convenient to get into small spaces where a proper custom water loop wouldn't fit (at least, not easily). The obvious downside is you... can't do the maintenance that a water loop needs. You don't get to drain the loop and replace the coolant every so often. Well, obviously you can if you mutilate the thing like I have, but it's not made to be easy to do so.

The second downside to CLC units, as far as issues with the loop goes, is you often get a copper block and an aluminum rad. This mixture of metals invites galvanic corrosion, which was likely a contributing factor to all the gunk I found in my h70. They add corrosion inhibitors to the coolant, but that only has a useful life of so long before it no longer works.

In short, the no maintenance factor is a gift and a curse. Now I have to run vinegar through my poor old h70 for a while to hopefully give it a second lease on life.

Hmm. Mine comes with a drain/fill cap, but without being able to actually unhook one of the lines, I'm not sure how I'd go about flushing the system.

hat · Dec 27, 2019

If I were you I would open up that cap and let the system drain as much as it can that way, then fill it with vinegar (apple cider vinegar apparently is stronger than white vinegar) and let it cycle that for a while, changing it every so often. It would still probably be better to unhook the lines anyway...

I wish I'd thought of this sooner, but it would have been nice if I zip-tied a coffee filter or something to the line which the vinegar is flowing out from. That would help keep any chunks of crud contained rather than just dumping it in my, erm, reservoir only to potentially be picked up by the line the system is pulling from...

Well, I've reinstalled it. Sadly, temps right now are worse than they were before I took it apart, but still better than the Cryorig M9. There's a lot of air bubbles in the loop right now though that need to work themselves out. Additionally, the pump now makes a grindy sound. It's not very loud, but it's there. I noticed this while I had it running outside of the PC, actually. It didn't do it while I was running vinegar through it, but it does with straight distilled water. Also, even after cycling vinegar for about a whole day, I noticed some flaky stuff in the water after I put the lines back together, sealing the loop normally. I would imagine it came loose when I was shaking the rad a little bit, trying to encourage flow to the pump. It seems 24 hours wasn't quite enough time.

One more piece of info: the pump seems to be running faster. I never mentioned this data before, but before I opened it up, it seemed to want to run around 1300 RPM, about the same speed as my Noctua fan. Now it likes to hang around 1450. Maybe because the cooler is less gunky, or maybe it's because the straight distilled water is thinner than the original coolant. Maybe water is thinner than vinegar too... maybe that's why the pump is noisy now, and it wasn't with the original coolant, or the vinegar. /shrug

I'm also worried it could not be filled as much as it should be... but all I can really do is run the pump, disconnect the dummy line I had on there for cycling the vinegar and connect the usual line for cycling the coolant once it's sealed back up. Maybe I need a T valve or something in the line that I can open up while the pump is running, and close once it's full...

Anyway, here's an image of the system currently, featuring the new tubing:

micropage7 · Dec 30, 2019

Just bought 8800gt from local online shop and as i expected, need cleaning
The thermal paste has dried long time ago and i use cajuput oil to melt it, no need expensive tools. Just cajuput oil and tissue

micropage7 · Jan 4, 2020

Hahaaa... Got another one bites the dust?

arbiter · Jan 4, 2020

micropage7 said:
Hahaaa... Got another one bites the dust?

Yea this one reminds of computer got when was in tech school. So MUCH dust clogged up the psu, the capacitors MELTED and fused together with each other.

Another instance did something to fix a friends computer even the most minor of cpu task's would send the cpu fan in to "jet engine mode". Pulled the fan headsink and it was caked with dust and even Burn marks where it was touching the heatsink.

silkstone · Jan 4, 2020

Tempered glass side panel literally exploded in my hands. Scared the shit out of me.

Tomgang · Jan 4, 2020

micropage7 said:
Hahaaa... Got another one bites the dust?
View attachment 141212

OMG

. That poor thing. Hope you clean it up good and give it more love than the previous owner sure as hell dit not give it.
Man that is nasty. All that dust

Valantar · Jan 4, 2020

micropage7 said:
Hahaaa... Got another one bites the dust?
View attachment 141212

Hmm, IDE drives but PCIe also - about 2005-2007? That's long enough to build up a solid layer of dust, yeah

biffzinker · Jan 4, 2020

Valantar said:
Hmm, IDE drives but PCIe also - about 2005-2007? That's long enough to build up a solid layer of dust, yeah

That motherboard is before PCIe existed.

dorsetknob · Jan 4, 2020

Yup i see
AGP ( looks to be AGP 2 )
PCI

lexluthermiester · Jan 4, 2020

micropage7 said:
Hahaaa... Got another one bites the dust?
View attachment 141212

Good grief! That is horrible!

Valantar · Jan 4, 2020

biffzinker said:
That motherboard is before PCIe existed.

Apparently I didn't look closely enough and didn't spot that it was AGP

micropage7 · Jan 4, 2020

Valantar said:
Hmm, IDE drives but PCIe also - about 2005-2007? That's long enough to build up a solid layer of dust, yeah

Like in here many offices still run old hardwares, as long it works there's no need to check it then you will find cloud of dust inside

Mussels · Jan 5, 2020

what caused the TG to break? damaged previously, heat etc?

System Name	Hotbox
Processor	AMD Ryzen 7 5800X, 110/95/110, PBO +150Mhz, CO -7,-7,-20(x6),
Motherboard	ASRock Phantom Gaming B550 ITX/ax
Cooling	LOBO + Laing DDC 1T Plus PWM + Corsair XR5 280mm + 2x Arctic P14
Memory	32GB G.Skill FlareX 3200c14 @3800c15
Video Card(s)	PowerColor Radeon 6900XT Liquid Devil Ultimate, UC@2250MHz max @~200W
Storage	2TB Adata SX8200 Pro
Display(s)	Dell U2711 main, AOC 24P2C secondary
Case	SSUPD Meshlicious
Audio Device(s)	Optoma Nuforce μDAC 3
Power Supply	Corsair SF750 Platinum
Mouse	Logitech G603
Keyboard	Keychron K3/Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro M w/DSA profile caps
Software	Windows 10 Pro

System Name	Starlifter :: Dragonfly
Processor	i7 2600k 4.4GHz :: i5 10400
Motherboard	ASUS P8P67 Pro :: ASUS Prime H570-Plus
Cooling	Cryorig M9 :: Stock
Memory	4x4GB DDR3 2133 :: 2x8GB DDR4 2400
Video Card(s)	PNY GTX1070 :: Integrated UHD 630
Storage	Crucial MX500 1TB, 2x1TB Seagate RAID 0 :: Mushkin Enhanced 60GB SSD, 3x4TB Seagate HDD RAID5
Display(s)	Onn 165hz 1080p :: Acer 1080p
Case	Antec SOHO 1030B :: Old White Full Tower
Audio Device(s)	Creative X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Pro - Bose Companion 2 Series III :: None
Power Supply	FSP Hydro GE 550w :: EVGA Supernova 550
Software	Windows 10 Pro - Plex Server on Dragonfly
Benchmark Scores	>9000

System Name	Rainbow Sparkles (Power efficient, <350W gaming load)
Processor	Ryzen R7 5800x3D (Undervolted, 4.45GHz all core)
Motherboard	Asus x570-F (BIOS Modded)
Cooling	Alphacool Apex UV - Alphacool Eisblock XPX Aurora + EK Quantum ARGB 3090 w/ active backplate
Memory	2x32GB DDR4 3600 Corsair Vengeance RGB @3866 C18-22-22-22-42 TRFC704 (1.4V Hynix MJR - SoC 1.15V)
Video Card(s)	Galax RTX 3090 SG 24GB: Underclocked to 1700Mhz 0.750v (375W down to 250W))
Storage	2TB WD SN850 NVME + 1TB Sasmsung 970 Pro NVME + 1TB Intel 6000P NVME USB 3.2
Display(s)	Phillips 32 32M1N5800A (4k144), LG 32" (4K60) \| Gigabyte G32QC (2k165) \| Phillips 328m6fjrmb (2K144)
Case	Fractal Design R6
Audio Device(s)	Logitech G560 \| Corsair Void pro RGB \|Blue Yeti mic
Power Supply	Fractal Ion+ 2 860W (Platinum) (This thing is God-tier. Silent and TINY)
Mouse	Logitech G Pro wireless + Steelseries Prisma XL
Keyboard	Razer Huntsman TE ( Sexy white keycaps)
VR HMD	Oculus Rift S + Quest 2
Software	Windows 11 pro x64 (Yes, it's genuinely a good OS) OpenRGB - ditch the branded bloatware!
Benchmark Scores	Nyooom.

System Name	Starlifter :: Dragonfly
Processor	i7 2600k 4.4GHz :: i5 10400
Motherboard	ASUS P8P67 Pro :: ASUS Prime H570-Plus
Cooling	Cryorig M9 :: Stock
Memory	4x4GB DDR3 2133 :: 2x8GB DDR4 2400
Video Card(s)	PNY GTX1070 :: Integrated UHD 630
Storage	Crucial MX500 1TB, 2x1TB Seagate RAID 0 :: Mushkin Enhanced 60GB SSD, 3x4TB Seagate HDD RAID5
Display(s)	Onn 165hz 1080p :: Acer 1080p
Case	Antec SOHO 1030B :: Old White Full Tower
Audio Device(s)	Creative X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Pro - Bose Companion 2 Series III :: None
Power Supply	FSP Hydro GE 550w :: EVGA Supernova 550
Software	Windows 10 Pro - Plex Server on Dragonfly
Benchmark Scores	>9000

System Name	Starlifter :: Dragonfly
Processor	i7 2600k 4.4GHz :: i5 10400
Motherboard	ASUS P8P67 Pro :: ASUS Prime H570-Plus
Cooling	Cryorig M9 :: Stock
Memory	4x4GB DDR3 2133 :: 2x8GB DDR4 2400
Video Card(s)	PNY GTX1070 :: Integrated UHD 630
Storage	Crucial MX500 1TB, 2x1TB Seagate RAID 0 :: Mushkin Enhanced 60GB SSD, 3x4TB Seagate HDD RAID5
Display(s)	Onn 165hz 1080p :: Acer 1080p
Case	Antec SOHO 1030B :: Old White Full Tower
Audio Device(s)	Creative X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Pro - Bose Companion 2 Series III :: None
Power Supply	FSP Hydro GE 550w :: EVGA Supernova 550
Software	Windows 10 Pro - Plex Server on Dragonfly
Benchmark Scores	>9000

The Filthy, Rotten, Nasty, Helpdesk-Nightmare picture clubhouse

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Freshwater Moderator

System Name	Gaming System / HTPC-Server
Processor	i7 8700K (@4.8 Ghz All-Core) / R7 5900X
Motherboard	Z370 Aorus Ultra Gaming / MSI B450 Mortar Max
Cooling	CM ML360 / CM ML240L
Memory	16Gb Hynix @3200 MHz / 16Gb Hynix @3000Mhz
Video Card(s)	Zotac 3080 / Colorful 1060
Storage	750G MX300 + 2x500G NVMe / 40Tb Reds + 1Tb WD Blue NVMe
Display(s)	LG 27GN800-B 27'' 2K 144Hz / Sony TV
Case	Xigmatek Aquarius Plus / Corsair Air 240
Audio Device(s)	On Board Realtek
Power Supply	Super Flower Leadex III Gold 750W / Andyson TX-700 Platinum
Mouse	Logitech G502 Hero / K400+
Keyboard	Wooting Two / K400+
Software	Windows 10 x64
Benchmark Scores	Cinebench R15 = 1542 3D Mark Timespy = 9758

Processor	i7-13700k (undervolts -0.140 volts)
Motherboard	Asus Tuf Gaming z790-plus
Cooling	Coolermaster Hyper 212 RGB
Memory	Corsair Vengeance RGB 32GB DDR5 7000mhz
Video Card(s)	Asus Dual Geforce RTX 4070 Super ( 2800mhz @ 1.0volt, ~60mhz overlock -.1volts)
Storage	1x Samsung 980 Pro PCIe4 NVme, 2x Samsung 1tb 850evo SSD, 3x WD drives, 2 seagate
Display(s)	Acer Predator XB273u 27inch IPS G-Sync 165hz
Audio Device(s)	Logitech Z906 5.1
Power Supply	Corsair RMx Series RM850x (OCZ Z series PSU retired after 13 years of service)
Mouse	Logitech G502 hero
Keyboard	Logitech G710+

System Name	The beast and the little runt.
Processor	Ryzen 5 5600X - Ryzen 9 5950X
Motherboard	ASUS ROG STRIX B550-I GAMING - ASUS ROG Crosshair VIII Dark Hero X570
Cooling	Noctua NH-L9x65 SE-AM4a - NH-D15 chromax.black with IPPC Industrial 3000 RPM 120/140 MM fans.
Memory	G.SKILL TRIDENT Z ROYAL GOLD/SILVER 32 GB (2 x 16 GB and 4 x 8 GB) 3600 MHz CL14-15-15-35 1.45 volts
Video Card(s)	GIGABYTE RTX 4060 OC LOW PROFILE - GIGABYTE RTX 4090 GAMING OC
Storage	Samsung 980 PRO 1 TB + 2 TB - Samsung 870 EVO 4 TB - 2 x WD RED PRO 16 GB + WD ULTRASTAR 22 TB
Display(s)	Asus 27" TUF VG27AQL1A and a Dell 24" for dual setup
Case	Phanteks Enthoo 719/LUXE 2 BLACK
Audio Device(s)	Onboard on both boards
Power Supply	Phanteks Revolt X 1200W
Mouse	Logitech G903 Lightspeed Wireless Gaming Mouse
Keyboard	Logitech G910 Orion Spectrum
Software	WINDOWS 10 PRO 64 BITS on both systems
Benchmark Scores	Se more about my 2 in 1 system here: kortlink.dk/2ca4x

Processor	Intel Core i7-13700 PL2 150W
Motherboard	MSI Z790 Gaming Plus WiFi
Cooling	Cooler Master Hyper 212 Halo Black
Memory	G Skill F5-6800J3446F48G 96GB kit
Video Card(s)	Gigabyte Radeon RX 9070 GAMING OC 16G
Storage	970 EVO NVMe 500GB, WD850N 2TB
Display(s)	Samsung 28” 4K monitor
Case	Corsair iCUE 4000D RGB AIRFLOW
Audio Device(s)	EVGA NU Audio, Edifier Bookshelf Speakers R1280
Power Supply	TT TOUGHPOWER GF A3 Gold 1050W
Mouse	Logitech G502 Hero
Keyboard	Logitech G G413 Silver
Software	Windows 11 Professional v24H2

System Name	micropage7
Processor	Intel Xeon X3470
Motherboard	Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. P55A-UD3R (Socket 1156)
Cooling	Enermax ETS-T40F
Memory	Samsung 8.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3
Video Card(s)	NVIDIA Quadro FX 1800
Storage	V-GEN03AS18EU120GB, Seagate 2 x 1TB and Seagate 4TB
Display(s)	Samsung 21 inch LCD Wide Screen
Case	Icute Super 18
Audio Device(s)	Auzentech X-Fi Forte
Power Supply	Silverstone 600 Watt
Mouse	Logitech G502
Keyboard	Sades Excalibur + Taihao keycaps
Software	Win 7 64-bit
Benchmark Scores	Classified

System Name	micropage7
Processor	Intel Xeon X3470
Motherboard	Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. P55A-UD3R (Socket 1156)
Cooling	Enermax ETS-T40F
Memory	Samsung 8.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3
Video Card(s)	NVIDIA Quadro FX 1800
Storage	V-GEN03AS18EU120GB, Seagate 2 x 1TB and Seagate 4TB
Display(s)	Samsung 21 inch LCD Wide Screen
Case	Icute Super 18
Audio Device(s)	Auzentech X-Fi Forte
Power Supply	Silverstone 600 Watt
Mouse	Logitech G502
Keyboard	Sades Excalibur + Taihao keycaps
Software	Win 7 64-bit
Benchmark Scores	Classified

System Name	micropage7
Processor	Intel Xeon X3470
Motherboard	Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. P55A-UD3R (Socket 1156)
Cooling	Enermax ETS-T40F
Memory	Samsung 8.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3
Video Card(s)	NVIDIA Quadro FX 1800
Storage	V-GEN03AS18EU120GB, Seagate 2 x 1TB and Seagate 4TB
Display(s)	Samsung 21 inch LCD Wide Screen
Case	Icute Super 18
Audio Device(s)	Auzentech X-Fi Forte
Power Supply	Silverstone 600 Watt
Mouse	Logitech G502
Keyboard	Sades Excalibur + Taihao keycaps
Software	Win 7 64-bit
Benchmark Scores	Classified